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Hi, I think you’ll be fine … being exposed to asbestos for an hour Isn’t that bad being exposed to it over and over again is when it can build up in your lungs.

@@hatpropertyinspections okay thanks because I'm trying not to obsess over it too much. Also thanks for the fast response. That's pretty cool that you're keeping on top of people's comment on your video. I'm definitely going to subscribe now and check out your videos tomorrow when I wake up😂👍🏻

what? why not 100%?

So, would you rather save some money on your bill, or save your house from being structurally compromised?

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I post a video every few weeks when I find something interesting!

Yes, it’s amazing. How much damage a little frozen water can do to Concrete And Masonary.!

Hi no I would not recommend putting Polly there at all, if you want to stop moisture transference out of the bathroom, but I think you should install an exhaust fan in the bathroom . Poly an interior wall will just trap moisture which can lead to mold.

Thanks for the quick response. I was even thinking of window screen to hold the insulation in place but also keep it breathable. Then shiplap directly over it without using any poly.

I am planning to install a ceiling exhaust fan thanks.

Great information thanks for your comment !

Hi thanks for your question . Yes definite ly put a poly plastic layer over the studs before you put the dry wall on . 6mm poly and tape all the seams

@@hatpropertyinspectionsAssuming the 2” foam board is XPS or foil-faced Polyiso, wouldn’t the low perm rating would qualify as the vapor barrier for wall assembly? Could create a double vapor barrier scenario by “sandwiching” the cavity with poly vapor barrier on top of studs and any moisture that finds its way into wall cavity won’t be able to dry easily and could cause mold, rot, etc. in the future. You could probably use a “smart” vapor retarder that has variable permeability and allows some drying to inside if stud cavity has build up of moisture….but honestly wouldn’t think you’d need it at all with 2” foam board against the wall.

Hi It’s Likely they have never been tripped. There has to be an overload problem with the circuit before they will Tripp. That’s why this batch of breakers was recalled, because if the curcuit is overloaded they will not Tripp.

Hi Back in 1997 they provided free replacements. But now it’s up to the home owner to replace them.

@@hatpropertyinspections is it just the blue ones? I've also got a green double pole

The green ones are fine. It is just the blue ones with a hole in the middle. It can be a blue single pole 15 with a hole in the middle or a blue two pole 15 with a hole in the middle.

Hi Joe in Canada Federal Pioneer breakers are not all considered unsafe yet, like the Federal Pacific breakers in the USA. There has not been as much independent testing of them in Canada. Both are considered Stab lock breakers. In Canada in 1997 this particular batch of Federal Pioneer breakers was recalled. Other than that there is no official problem yet with Federal stab lock breakers in Canada.

Hi Craig, the answer is because I did install the fan inside the finished liveable space of the house. In Canada we have to install the fans inside because it’s too cold in the winter to install them outside. The condensation that forms from being installed outside freezes up the fan .

@@hatpropertyinspections that makes sense!!

Ya this was a large rusty vertical seam crack in the main wet vent only the bathroom sink above it. I think the line may have been plugged up to the crack but not sure. I agree usually only see seam cracks on verticals.

Hi Thanks for your comment !

Hi Sherry thanks for your question. The answer is yes all four sides need to have flashing. Along the bottom it’s called a drip edge flashing, this is an important flashing. On the sides It’s called a rake flashing this flashing is not as important as the bottom ones.

You’re obviously not an electrician dude. Why are you giving advice on something you are not qualified to do?

Hi sealing cracks in the floor will not reduce radon levels and I would recommend contacting the public health inspector about the gas station.

if the wall gets wet then yes. don't cover it with anything if it gets wet (ie water comes in from the ground outside)

You are right, good catch! yes the insulation on interior walls is fine, just the vapour barrier should be removed.

@@hatpropertyinspections Thanks, wasn't sure if there was a reason not to do interior insulation. Thinking of doing some interior near my mechanical room that separates the family room.

@@hatpropertyinspections One additional question if you don't mind, hard to find an answer on. I have half-height foundation walls in the basement, half-concrete half where the 2x4 framing walls start (Raised Ranch). This creates a "ledge" all away around the house where the 2x4 framing sits on the 2x8? foundation. Gives the appearance the room is bigger than it is, but if I'm remodeling the space is it a good idea to create a second 2x4 wall attached to the first 2x4 wall, effectively creating a 2x8 wall I can stuff with lots of Rockwool? Thank you!!!

The double talk is when the HVAC guy tells you your heat exchanger is cracked and you need a new furnace.

Hi Tom thanks for your question. no rock wool insulation does not contain asbestos. It is made of basalt and slag.

Hi only qualified electricians should work on any electrical panel. The nature of the hazard “no main breaker.” Is the only thing protecting the panel is the utility fuse several 100 feet away and it is protecting multiple houses. There is a potential for serious arc flash and electrocution when there’s no local main breaker protecting the panel. As far as the branch circuits go. The type and age of these breakers have a very common hazard of overloading. The breaker will not trip when there’s too much power running through it this can cause a breakdown in the insulation from overheating. This is a fire, hazard. In short whether the homeowner has 5K or not the panel should be replaced. Hope this information helps.

It didn't

Exactly same thing I’m thinking but I understand what he trying to say but tell us how to fix the problem and then he said call him and give no information but I guess I thank him for trying

That price sounds a little high but I depends on a lot of things, what area are you in ?

I’m guessing this type of foundation needs lots of maintenance and by the looks of it hasn’t been getting it

Thanks Darryl. Yes I see it fairly regularly where there is no drip flashing. Even on new roofs lots of time so don’t put them on, Even though it’s code.

Hi Andrew thanks for your question. I would recommend that you get an expert opinion from a qualified electrical contractor about the old panel and about installing any outlets and lights. Westley

Hi Hammer yes lots of older houses have that kind of wiring. The best thing to do is replace it if possible. If you can’t replace it then protecting that old wiring with arc fault protection is a great idea. If you have the ungrounded wire it should also be protected with ground fault protection. This can easily be done at electrical panel with a combination arc fault/ground fault feedthrough outlet for each circuit.

Got the same in my house built in 1906. Amazingly the tar and paper wiring I have found is in extremely good condition. The main panel in the house is glass fuses also. I make sure never to over load the circuits. I will replace the first receptacles of every circuit through out the house with GFCI .

@@andrerodriguez7603 thank you for your comment. Yes that is a great thing to do protect each circuit with a GFCI . They also make a ground fault arc fault combination outlet. If you wanted a little better protection you could protect each circuit with arc fault protection and ground fault protection.

@@hatpropertyinspections I’ll do that. It’s a two story Craftsman home here in Southern California. It would be a shame for it to catch fire. I just invested in a new roof with sheathing. I’ll have the house re wired in the future. 👍🏻👍🏻

​@@hatpropertyinspectionsCan you rewire without ruining my plaster walls?

Hi Antonio Thank you for your comment. The best way to erect the wall is to Build 6 inch stud walls all the way around on the exterior of the basement leaving about a 1 inch gap away from the concrete. You don’t want the fibreglass insulation to touch the concrete you want to have an air gap there, then fill them with R12 Fibreglass batt insulation. Including the rim joist areas above the wall. Then install 6 mm poly on the interior side of the stud walls, (using a staple gun) all the way from the floor up to the top of the wall and inside the rim joist area. (Where I am it’s code now to use spray foam insulation in this rim Joist area with no poly )but R 12 insulation in this area with poly will work fine, you can use some Staples to hold The poly in place up in the rim joist area, Cut the poly a couple inches above the top of the rim joist and staple it to the floor above. Then use black acoustic sealant to seal the poly at the floor, in the corner of the concrete floor and new 2x6 wall and cut the poly about half an inch from the wood wall. Then drywall and tape the wall and ceiling. No poly on any interior walls, but insulation on interior walls is OK for soundproofing. I hope this information helps , thank you very much Westley.

Hi thanks for your question. It is a FLIR-E6390

@@hatpropertyinspections Thank you 😊

Thanks for the great info Joe!