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I was forever burning holes in my car when I first started to weld. Here's how I addressed it: 1. Have I cut out all the rust? If not, cut further until I have because welding to thin frilly steel is an exercise in frustration and poor welds 2. Am I at a corner or edge where burn through is more likely? If so, use a copper or aluminium heat sink backer 3. Do I need to bridge a gap between metal edges of more than 0.5mm? If so, turn down voltage and wire feed speed to allow 'building a bridge' between adjacent metal edges I think the term for adding a recessed edge is 'joddled' or 'joggled', named after the tool 'joddler' or 'joggler'

nice work mate from Australia !!!

Drilling thru both layers of a pinch weld makes a lot of extra work. Try grinding thru the first layer with the edge of a grinding wheel, leaving the back flange whole?

just a tip push the mig torch intot he weld rather then dragging it away from the weld

I have a 65 Volvo that I want to repair. It is rusted in tricky areas. This video is really helpful even as I am watching casually. I watched abt 4 before this one and yours stands out. Tx brother!

For studs like that in such small numbers I prefer to find a matching but slightly longer bolt. Grind the head down until it looks like a rivet head. Shape it, but don't remove any of the diameter of the bolt head. Cut the original stud off and drill a hole to suit. Put the ground down bolt in through the back side and weld it in place. Try to get decent penetration all around because you are going to grind this down as well. It doesn't need to be flat, but just rounded over so it is relatively smooth. I realize decent penetration without burn through is tricky on such thin sheet. You can add a washer under the bolt head and weld it all if that helps, but in my relatively limited experience these bolts don't really need to hold up any ten ton anchors.

6mm (1/4" in barbarian) aluminum plate (or copper) heat sponge behind thin sheet helps with blowouts...

you are in sheet metall work a King man , i like your work , its amazing job

Very nicely done. Completely agree as regards removing old crud! I do everything I can to avoid pushing deadly dust into the environment. The main problem I have is with the dust from grinding down welds now. I've started in on the bodywork of my classic mini and seem to be forever welding! I've been thinking about panel forming tools for sometime and you seem to have everything I've been thinking of: Anvil, guillotine, shrinker, stretcher, straight angle former, and round angle former. Did you get them as a job lot or buy separately? Liked and subbed!

I wish you a good luck with this project.

Good job, I also try copper weld throw primer and see how that works 😅

thats a perfekt Job man

The best way in my opinion is a tool we used at work. It is a stud welder or stud gun. Zip cut old studs. Replace with appropriate size studs. Easy peasy.

about the wire, make sure to try keep the hose whch the wire goes through to torch as straight as possible otherwise beeing a .6 wire might bind resulting in a poor weld. also dont step on it like i do while welding,

Came out nice chap! I need a roller/shrinker/stretcher in my life!

Trevs blog here on youtube did a video before about fitting those bolts you were asking about at the start of the video

So glad your channel popped up in my feed. Another e30 owner here and always pleased to see one getting restored. Great work!

cut or drill the bolts out and replace them welding them back into place...

For a split second, I thought you were working on my E30!

Really beautifull job mate !!!

Great video! It’s very well filmed, clearly explained, the sound is perfect, and your skills really stand out. I’m currently restoring a Citroën Saxo VTS, and this is going to be a source of inspiration for me 😅

A sub for the spanners as cupboard door handles :D

Nice welding.... Subscribed, Regards Andy

Nice repair! Cheers from rusty nissan rs13 200sx

size of weld wire and voltage

cut bolts off drill a bit bigger hole grind down 2 sides of bolt head . elongate hole on 1 side with a small round file fit in and weld gas weld

Can you not run the threads again with a tap and die set on the studs. Replace some with bolts and weld the hex nut from inside.

I had a clarke welder and found now and again it would blow holes. I bought myself a Mig 180 amp from RTec welding. It's an inverter welder with a variable heat setting as opposed to rocker switches.

Just found your channel. I have subscribed, enjoying everything. Keep up the good work.

Only recently found your channel, (now subscribed) most enjoyable style of presentation, the small bulkhead patch you had trouble welding due to thin metal could have been achieved by using a lump of brass, copper or even aluminium held against the other side to absorb excessive heat. I do realise that this trick is not always possible if you cannot reach the other side. (Shout for Dad!!} Anyway keep up the excellent work which I will watch with interest.

Hello just come across your channel and subscribed! Loving your stress free easy style and attention to detail. Great video 👍👍👍

Get a stud welder to replace the bolts. You might be able to hire one. Cut off the old studs and weld on new ones.

Great work, enjoyed this video, just subscribed. What welder do you have and would you recommend it, just about to buy my first welder

Hi. Just found your channel, subscribed and binged all your videos! Apologies in advance for the length of this comment. You're doing a great job, and you've amassed a fine collection of tools to do it justice. I'm 72 now and probably on my last project, a 1998 E31 840Ci. It is fair to say it is killing me slowly week by week! I've been restoring for about 10 years and have done 3 cars now, including all the painting, one of them an E34 (I still have the car, it is about 3/4 finished) which has a fair bit in common with the E30. My first BMW was a 1987 E30 320i (shame you don't have the straight six), it was only 3 years old so I didn't do any bodywork at all on it during the 6 years I owned it. I'm no expert, but I've made a lot of mistakes to be learned from. You are obviously very capable, so I doubt I can teach you much, but here are a few things. I have also had issues with weld through primer, and am of the opinion that all of it interferes with the weld, which may be why it was never used during manufacture to my knowledge. There are so many products out there, but I have put my faith in these companies: Rustbuster, Bilt Hamber Laboratories, Dinitrol and Fertan. For me, they make the best products. Do NOT use POR15, it's total junk, everything I have painted with it has failed. Do not bother with etch primers, go straight for a good epoxy primer. Rustbuster do some excellent stuff, they make some 2 pack weld through primers which I have not tried, but if I had a lot more welding to do I would give them a try. Their Epoxy Mastic is fantastic for chassis and suspension parts. Fertan is the best rust converter IMO. It looks and smells different to all the others, is German designed, and comes out of the marine and oil rig background. For the bolts you mention, I presume you mean the annoying self-tapper type threaded studs welded to the body used for heat shield securing among other things. For the ones that can't just be cleaned and treated, I have referenced their position, cut them off, ground the metal flat. Then, get some M6 pan head screws the right length, for the ones that are under carpet, they don't need to be completely flush, so grind the pan head down to, say, 2mm thickness, drill a hole and weld from the other side. If you can't get to the other side, or you need a flush fit, grind them down more, drill a hole the same size as the round head you are left with and weld them in flush. For complex shapes, don't be afraid of welding a few pieces together rather than struggling for hours to make a panel out of 1 piece. Lastly, you probably already know, but YT channels to watch for inspiration are: Fitzees Fabrications, Yorkshire Car Restoration, Ben's Classic Bodywork, GT 1900 Garage, Dave's garage, Notevn, Trev's Blog, and Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties. Looking forward to your next episode.

It's called Joggled, the tool you use is called a Juggler

Put a brace between the two rear shock mountings

congrats man im building my e30 along with you thank you

Fantastic video as always mate, thank you so much ☺️ Outstanding work as always!! You should be very proud of yourself. All the best to you & all the family mate 🙏😊👍

You've made a really nice job of that floor, well done.

Try not to put too much heat in the panels to eliminating wrapping. I have the same problems with the welds being hit and miss. Nice section on the floor pan 👌

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Fantastic video as always Leon 👌 It’s looking amazing, fair play to you!! Loved the music too, especially the first track, I have that in my Amazon music playlist 👌 All the best to you & all the family mate ☺️👍

Good job!👍

I'm currently doing the mondeo setup Any advice appreciated.

Nice. Only improvement I see would be to make the sleeve out of hex stock so you could put a wrench on it instead of the pliers

Need to do mine next week, do vtrs have a spring loaded tensioner? Also do you set the engine to tdc use a locking pin then mark the top and bottom as you did? Thanks

Fantastic job & video as always mate, very well done & thank you 👏👏👏☺️👍 Brilliant progress mate 👌 All the best to you & all the family 😊👍

L I K E 👍 👍 👍 👍👍 😻 ❣😻❣😻 💯💢💯💢 💯💯

Genius!

A triumph of personal engineering mate. inspirational job 😃.