Відео

Amazing video... as usual.. and I have NiSi C5 and the other Lens Kit... now these are totally amazing... also... You did this video with New York City Footage... but you tagged it "Los Angeles"... ?

Man these filters are top notch 👌🏾

I mean, just take my money now 😂

wow

Loved the video! Definitely earned a like and subscribe!!

Ok

Sick, I need these! 🔥

Nice work brother don’t get pulled into any negative comments or people giving feedback that haven’t shot, edited, graded and been a gaffer at the same time in their life. Keep pushing stay focused and block out the noise. The internet is a weird place for artist but you do you. And if you ever work out more of these DIY keep posting an and if it doesn’t take up to much time try selling? I used a circular plastic pipe (used for plumbing )that was attached to a straight pipe with a tripod mount in the middle for years back in the day with my 5D mkii. Essentially I was using it as a DIY gimbal 😂 I got so good at it you could never tell. The only thing people saw was the final results. Stay blessed

Great job! Some commenters need to remember, this was done using affordable low cost lights! You were super close ❤

If you find a diy way of making that frame easily collapsible lmk. Corners are like $40+ a pop lol cool vid either way great job.

Hi, could you name the specific NP-F to V-Mount adapter you're using? Thanks!

Great video, thank you for doing this !

Nice video, thanks for making it. (Don't forget your safety goggles! ❤️🥽)

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Hey guys, I created a poll with a few topics you would want me to cover on the channel. Please check it out Cache your vote. I’m really curious on what topics you guys are interested but please don’t forget to vote on it. That way I can cater a video for you guys thank you so much you guys are awesome. Here is the Link: ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxa4hL2_fJyMq9FZXHGtp_o4b1BgiwZpoT?si=bQ6ks9_PzCKQQA4D

Hey guys, I created a poll with a few topics you would want me to cover on the channel. Please check it out Cache your vote. I’m really curious on what topics you guys are interested but please don’t forget to vote on it. That way I can cater a video for you guys thank you so much you guys are awesome. Here is the Link: ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxa4hL2_fJyMq9FZXHGtp_o4b1BgiwZpoT?si=bQ6ks9_PzCKQQA4D

Hey guys, I created a poll with a few topics you would want me to cover on the channel. Please check it out Cache your vote. I’m really curious on what topics you guys are interested but please don’t forget to vote on it. That way I can cater a video for you guys thank you so much you guys are awesome. Here is the Link: ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxa4hL2_fJyMq9FZXHGtp_o4b1BgiwZpoT?si=bQ6ks9_PzCKQQA4D

Hey guys, I created a poll with a few topics you would want me to cover on the channel. Please check it out Cache your vote. I’m really curious on what topics you guys are interested but please don’t forget to vote on it. That way I can cater a video for you guys thank you so much you guys are awesome. Here is the Link: ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxa4hL2_fJyMq9FZXHGtp_o4b1BgiwZpoT?si=bQ6ks9_PzCKQQA4D

Hey guys, I created a poll with a few topics you would want me to cover on the channel. Please check it out Cache your vote. I’m really curious on what topics you guys are interested but please don’t forget to vote on it. That way I can cater a video for you guys thank you so much you guys are awesome. Here is the Link: ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxa4hL2_fJyMq9FZXHGtp_o4b1BgiwZpoT?si=bQ6ks9_PzCKQQA4D 😊

DUPER!!! THANK YOU A BUNCH!!

Nice idea with the metal frame and fabric!

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Do you guys realize the Hollyland Lark only records mono??? Yes, both mics are mixed down to a single channel recorded to both left and right. No stereo. Worthless imho.

Gloves for drilling?!? Yeah, you are definitely on the camera crew... (signed laughing Grips)

Super creative with the use of location

Great watch and I know this is probably a silly question but I noticed you had a card in hand once your lights were set up. Is the rule of thumb to set camera white balance after you set all studio lights? I know; rookie question but I’m trying to learn! So much info to absorb and learn

Very nice! Soon I have to buy some good kit which is portable, I can travel with and it is also enough for some interview or smaller scenes to light.

Light is neither “soft” nor “hard” it is either collimated (parallel rays) or diffuse (scattered rays) with SHADOWS which are “normal” (as normally seen by eye) or recorded lighter or darker by the photographic recording medium (film / digital) with SPECULAR HIGHLIGHTS which are the reflection of light source. What most in lighting don’t understand is how to use FILL to make light seem, PERCEPTUALLY ‘softer’. Fill is necessary in color photography because color film and digital sensors can’t record a scene with normal ‘seen by eye’ detail and tonality from highlight to shadows. When exposure is set to maintain the separation between solid white objects and the 3D shape defining specular highlights on them created with a single KEY light there will be insufficient light reflecting from the shadows to record detail which will also make middle tones seem darker than ‘normal’. If centered ‘neutral’ (not creating 3D modeling) fill is used as the foundation for artificial lighting the ‘mood’ and perception of the environment can be controlled more precisely that by just using larger and larger KEY light modifiers. The best place to use a scrim is directly behind and above the camera, with power raise to the point detail is seen in black towel used as a shadow exposure target. If first learned photographic portrait lighting in 1970 from a Kodak “How to Make Portraits” book from my local camera shop which explained the need for FILL due the the short range of photo print paper and the need to keep it centered and shadowless as possible because where there are shadows created by the FILL there will be, logically, unfilled black voids in the lighting pattern. This are seen on areas of the face like the ‘smile lines’, corners of the mouth and inside of mouth when FILL is placed off center opposite the KEY. That seems logical until looking at the lighting pattern created by just the FILL critically and noticing all the unfilled shadows which will still be there even after the KEY source is added on top of the FILL. Putting the FILL source directly behind and and above the camera will hide most shadows from camera view and using a larger modifier like an umbrella which will also spill light of ceiling and side walls will made it more diffuse and shadows less distinct. That made perfect sense to me so I’ve followed Kodak’s advice ever since and never had a problem with shadow detail or darker than normal shadow tones, unless I wanted them to look darker than normally seen by eye. Back in 2000 when I bought my first Kodak DC290 digital which could trigger my external flashes I realized I could put the light meter on the shelf and instead use black and white hand towels draped on a stand to set exposure and FIT SCENE RANGE TO SENSOR DYNAMIC RANGE, which technically speaking is ‘optimal exposure’. The workflow is simple: 1) Set Aperture for desired DOF 2) Raise power of centered FILL until detail is seen in draped (3D shaped) Black Towel target. Towels are ideal because the tiny loops create specular highlights like hair, fur and feathers do. 3) Turn on overlapping KEY light and raise power until parts of White Towel target until it is 1/3 EV below triggering the 255 clipping warning in the playback. With that three step process regardless of whether the camera sensor has an EV range of 6 or 16 the SCENE RANGE will equal SENSOR RANGE and reproduce “normally scene” detail in the two towels at the two extremes of the tonal range and EVERYTHING in between. The difference will be a sensor with EV 6 range will need more FILL than one with an EV range of 16. From that baseline of “normal” we can add more fill to make the shadows lighter than ‘normal’ which PERCEPTUALLY will be interpreted as ‘softer’ but we would NEVER UNDERFILL at CAPTURE because that will fill the shadows with digital noise which is the result of no signal being recored in the shadows. Instead the correct approach - for purely technical reasons - would be to FILL the shadows “normally” or even err on the side of overfilling recording the image and them adjust them darker in post processing to get dark but noise free shadows. Light to subject distance controls the rate of near-far inverse square fall off in exposure between highlight and shadow. A light source used close to face will cause the light to fall off in exposure rapidly creating a steep highlight / shadow gradient which is perceived as “harder” than if the light source is moved further away where inverse square law falloff will be more gradual. As the distance of a light source to face gets greater the size of the specular reflections the source creates in eyes and on damp skin get smaller and ‘harder’ looking. That were the size of the KEY LIGHT modifier (and FILL) becomes a factor and the concept of ‘apparent size’ comes into play. “Apparent size” is now big the modifier looks to the subject being photographed. A big soft box at 10’ looking the same size as smaller on at 5’. When two modifiers have the same ‘apparent size’ the size, character and perception of any specular highlights they create will be similar. So if moving lights further away from subject to get buttery smooth highlight-shadow transitions using inverse-square fall off you’d want a proportionately larger modifier to keep the specular highlights from getting smaller and ‘harder’ looking. Or course just moving lights around until it looks right works too, until you edit and find nothing but noise in the shadows or dark voids in areas of faces like the smile lines due to shaded fill (or lack of it) which once noticed are hard to ever unsee 😂

Hi , great vid, would you recommend this over the new Shinobi ii ?

Link to the slippers?

Looks fantastic. Great use to use gorilla glue to keep the velcro on the aluminum frame. A neat trick to get the water reflections behind you is to use baking pans with water in them on the ground, and shine a light into them so that the light reflects onto your background. Ya just have to tap the pans with your foot to get the water moving, then you are ready to go.

Great setup but #1 your fill side is too dark compared to the blade runner shot. The flag is probably too close and #2 the foreground background ratio also seems a bit off

🔥🔥🔥🔥

🔥🔥🔥

Hell yeahhh!!!

Nice work, brother. It looks great on a budget. The actual shot from the movie is lit using an overhead ring light made up of several hard fixtures, which makes it appear soft because it's such a big ring. They also have a skirt around it. Also, if you notice, there is no catchlight in the real movie, again because of the overhead source. Next time you do a recreation, try to pay more attention to the lighting ratios. I see you brought in negative fill for yours, but if you notice in the original, the contrast ratio between key and fill is much lower... look at the originals ear and the way your ear looks, there is no light hitting yours. You're definitely talented.. keep up the awesome work. Love the diy frame!

With all due respect there is a TON of difference between the two shots ...

Hey good job on the recreation i think it's a great start, I think woking on your ratios will help you dial it in more. Also remember soft light isnt always the answer :)

What clips were you using to clamp it to the c-stand?

Amazing! Love the frame build. Wonder if there's a way to upgrade, doing everything the same, but have an option to quickly disassemble the four four foot metal pieces. Basically figuring out easy solid connectors....

Love the budget friendly idea and the result looks great! Just a suggestion, how I think the scene is light, the light is a bit higher than you’ve set it up, you can see that from the shadows under the brow-line and nose and also the subsequent lack catch light. Also just moving the light a tiny bit towards the camera. I could be wrong that’s my interpretation of how it’s done. Great video still! Loved it!

I planned gvm 650b,300c, yu 300, 80d lamps can i buy or not and i heard lux is low is this true ???. Some videos show it failing at lux.

Or you could get one of those 5 in 1 (5'x4') reflectors. More lightweight, more portable, also comes with bounce and Neg and probably cheaper too.