Відео

I made one because the ring on the piston keeps blowing off. Which is scary and unsafe. I tried several designs, but settled on moving the ring forward and I made the piston slightly larger where the ring goes and it works great and has never blown the ring off. But the guns that are misaligned between the magazine tube and the barrel lug (just off center) wouldn't cycle because the sleeve was dragging between the barrel lug and the magazine Tube. So I fixed that issue with the ringless piston design. So now I have no ring or piston issue at all. The sleeve moves back because there are gas port holes drilled in the barrel to let the gas come out of the barrel where the sleeve is when fired and that is what drives the sleeve (piston) back.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I don't think mine even has a regulator on the front of the piston like yours does. I seen a video last night of a disassembley and his didn't either. Ours came with two different pistons.

You're right. On steel there's not much advantage going to 3-1/2. But lead on Turkeys is different story. The 3-1/2 Longbeards do a lot better than the 3" do. I've taken 3 over 60 yards (62, 63, & 64 yards) with 3-1/2" Longbeards. Duck and goose hunting is pretty much limited to 40 yards or less, and you're right, the 3" is just as good. But if you're like me, a good reloaded 2-3/4" will bring them down just as easy, and sometimes even pattern better. I typically use 2-3/4 for ducks, no reason to go any higher. And use 3 or 3-1/2 for geese. My 3" 1-1/4 works fine, but sometimes like a 1-1/2 oz load, so I do the 3-1/2.

I made 2 of them on a lathe. They are not a purchased item. I have considered finding someone to make them for market.

If you want a ringed piston, check the Hatfield website.

@@bgdesignandsolutions it doesn’t show anything on there that u can order

@@brookscline4382 Wow, you're right. I just saw that. First I heard of this. Bummer. Maybe look on ebay, I've seen used parts on there before.

@@bgdesignandsolutions yeah might have to keep a eye out on ebay

Double loading is caused by the shell stop that stops the shells coming out of the magazine tube. It's a process to fix but it can be done if you're willing to take it all apart. Too much to explain here. I haven't seen any that don't have the gas relief removed from the barrel. In know the first ones were made that way, so maybe they went back to that design. Can't say.

I just bought this gun. It’s comes with two pistons. One in the gun and one in the box which one do you use for 3” shells?

I made it myself and cut the edges so it would remove metal without gouging the chamber. It's been so long now, I don't recall the drill size. 5/16 iI believe. I took a 12" bit and cut off the drill part and reshaped it and then cut it for trimming.

Not really sure what you're saying there. The upper control arm has a Torque specification of 80 foot pounds, the equivalent of many head bolts on an engine. That's why I supported the vehicle before I tightened the nuts down. They were loose before then. If tightened while the hub is down, then over time it can cause the rubber in the casing to break free. Then it's time to replace them again. I don't know what your definition of loose is, but no, never leave the nuts loose. Always tighten them down, but do it in a proper fashion as I explained in the video.

Some of them will rock back and forth when installing the barrel back with the receiver. The rocking should go away when the retainer cap is tightened. As you tighten the cap, it should find it's "sweet spot" and stop rocking. Make sure it's as tight as you can get it by hand. No tools.

Can you unscrew the barrel extension?

@@Bushman-j4p No. It made into the barrel.

Funny. Good luck on the son.

He has done that since a pup when he was first exposed to guns. He loves the water, not afraid of Guns, and loves to watch deer. If I even just clean a gun he is right there watching and waiting. He is really good on pheasants and has his own style, but not so much on quail. Runs right over them. He goes after ducks and points them as well. He's my buddy. He has learned not to runout during dove season and stands or sits beside me, but as soon as one is hit he's on it.

I forgot to comment on the Matrix. Worked very well until I shot full length 3" shells during duck season. With a little modification, it works on all 3" shells now and of course the 2-3/4 as well. I made a video on the modification. You may want to check it out.

Try shooting only one shot in it at a time and see if it's kicking it out. If it is, then load two and check to see if it's jamming the next shell under it. Maybe bend it out a little. Remove and check the extractor and make sure it is smooth on both sides and spring is clear of debris. Check trigger assy for rub marks on the side. Also, the shell lifters are sometimes put in with the wrong piece. A left had unit instead of a right hand unit. This will rub the inside of the receiver and cause it not to work.

Also it is 3 1/2 version

I use the Truglo Gobble Stopper the most. I found they pattern better and I get a more rounded pattern. My next choice is Carlson or Hevi Shot. But I have noticed the ridges in them will often egg shape the pattern.

It seems these style of Guns made in Turkey are pretty much the same and have the same issues. I am not familiar with the one you mention. But if it looks the same, it was likely made at the same factory. Did the ring come off the piston on that one? I made one that works pretty good since I made this video. So there is an answer to the problem. ua-cam.com/video/RK3SJmFpxcM/v-deo.html .......

I have one but I ever hardly use it. I can shoot 3" in it all day long, but some of the 2-3/4 will not cycle. I shoot mostly 3" in it anyway. It's an OK gun. No real issues like the 12 ga.

Sounds like you got it down. If it's KIA car, I think the height is ok. 350 lbs is light enough it should work with the 3x3x1/4" square tubing. The only issue with the height is what you use to pull the engine. A chain hoist will hang down some, so make sure there will be enough distance between a hanging engine and your car's grill area. That's where the 7' 2" may get you.

@@bgdesignandsolutions Thank you.

Thanks for the compliment. Not really working on much right now.

Hello @@bgdesignandsolutions ....it's the last of the winter around here. I'm trying to finish all the cleaning or painting I told myself I would do in the winter... ......nothing exciting going on here. Have a good day.....and a peaceful weekend.

@@Dancing_Alone_wRentals You too.

I'm glad it helped.

I rigged one up. I drilled and tapped the receiver and put a Mossberg scope base on it. But you can only use the back part of the receiver and base and not drill into the front side because the metal is too thin. The base is set at 1/2" hole spacing. I then drilled another hole 1/2" away toward the center and then drilled 3 holes 1/2" apart into the receiver to match. I bought 3 new longer screws that would go all the way into the receiver for strength and ground them off flush with the inside of the receiver. I had to take them in and out until flush. I used a course thread to prevent cross threading of the screw because the receiver is aluminum. Course threads hold better in aluminum. I've had no issues. I put a scope on at first and then later changed it to a reflex sight. But you may want to check with Hatfield and see if they offer a scope base.

@@bgdesignandsolutions sounds good. Thank you very much!

I still have it, but never use it. I switched up and use the 3-1/2" version for goose and the Matrix for most everything else now because its lighter. As for the piston problem, I designed a new piston and it works great in 3" and 3-1/2", so no worries about that anymore.

I have no clue, but It could be.

Yes, the piston is what I have been trying to design for quit a spell and finally figured out what needed to be done. It performs flawlessly in all of my SAS models. I can even shoot 2-3/4 in the 3-1/2 inch shotgun, like I show in the video. There are primarily two reason for a failure to cycle 3" shells. One is the shell itself. If it's 3 inches after being shot, it will not cycle in the 3 inch versions because the ejector is not set up for a full 3 inches. It's set for the European 3" which is about 1/8" or more shorter. The other is oil. I cannot express how many people fail to properly oil their automatic shotguns. Whether it's a Hatfield or other brand. Even Stoeger's, Brownings, and Benelli's need to be oiled to function properly. It's a given. If all is well there, I would then look at the extractor for proper function, spring pressure, and ability to grab. I would even look at the trigger assy and see if the carrier spring is dragging against the trigger housing. You may want to buy the ringed piston and see if it works. Some shells do not have the gas power to function all types of shotguns. I have seen this even on top end shotguns.

You may want to get a ringed piston.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I have both. It still won't cycle 3 inch even loads orr 1300fps.

@@jeffclark8696 Does it jam? Does the shell start to come out? Does it open the bolt? Is there scrapping on the top of the receiver inside?

@@bgdesignandsolutionsNot ejecting shells

@@jeffclark8696 I am assuming the shell is coming all the way back, and you have an empty shell on top and a loaded one in the bottom of the receiver. If one shell is shot, it does what? Close the bolt back with the empty in it? Stay open? Or Shell part way out? If two or more shells are in it: does the next shell leave the magazine when fired? Does it go under the fired shell? Will it eject 2-3/4" shells? Does it cycle the next shell in the magazine? Any issues when shooting 2-3/4" It is cycles the 2-3/4" just fine, I see no reason for it not to cycle the 3" shells other than they are too long and you need to get another box of a different brand.

Interesting. Was it the 3-1/2 version like this one, or the standard 3" version? What piston do you use, the ringed one or the heavy one? My goal was to get away from the ringed pistons because come off and cause problems.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I bought the 3-in version and it only came with one piston

@@propdoctor21564 Probably came with the ringed one. But it sounds like you're on top of it and have it working. I may look into drilling out the holes someday just to see what happens. I do have an extra barrel or two I can play with.

Mine will still will not cycle 3 inch and I have the heavy piston.

It wasn't a polish issue. It was the extractor ramp.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I wish Remington would spend an extra 10mins on refining these barrels. Least it’s not hard to do ourselves, but growing up around wingmasters these new ones can be aggravating

Thanks. Glad it helped. Hopefully you won't have any more problems.

I agree for the most part. Light loads have always been the issue in modern times, but not so much in the older guns that shot 2 3/4 only, or were set up to shoot 3 inch, but not the heavy 3 inch shells of today. There is no one gun for all, or one ammo for all.

The ring coming off is a major issue with these guns and a poor design. There's no reason for them to have continued it for this long period of time. There is a small fix for it. Got to 15:22 minutes in this video: ua-cam.com/video/sUk3uUWcHKU/v-deo.html It shows what I did. I put a small angle at the ends of the ring to hold it down with pressure. I have since made a piston that has no ring and works very well. I will post a video on it soon.

Sounds like you may need to send it in. The only thing that comes to mind would be the matchup between barrel and bolt assy. Assuming you can't open the bolt at all after it is closed. If you close the chamber slowly, does it still have a hard time opening? *Dry Firing:* Did you dry fire it and then put the safety on? If the bolt is closed, and the hammer has been fired, and the safety is on, it will not open but about half way. You have to take it off safety for it to open. I suppose it could be in the spring assy that goes down into the butt stock. Take the trigger assy out and push on the end of it to see if it hangs up. Off hand, I can't think of anything else.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I might pull the trigger assembly apart.. nothing to do with dry firing or anything of that sort I'm also unable to pull the charge handle out of the action making me think something internal is the issue .. I will most likely be using it as firewood 🤙🏻

@@DonnyandtheboysHunting You have to remove the barrel to pull the charge handle. Once the barrel is removed, lift the front of the bolt up to the top of the receiver. this will create a gap between the bolt and the carriage. Then pull the charge handle out. There is a slot for it to go in and out. They are locked in place by design. The bolt holds it in place and the only way for it to come out is after the barrel is removed. A very good design, with no chance of loosing one.

@@DonnyandtheboysHunting Can you make a #short on it and show me how it's not opening and what it's doing? If you do, send me the link.

@@bgdesignandsolutions will do

Still going. Had to replace the bolt assy because the lug shaved off on it. But stills works fine. I bought another one and had issues with it from day one. I really need to make an updated video on this gun. But for the most part, I use it hunting geese because it has a lighter recoil to it than others have.

Thanks.

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Not every shell gets shot in a Shotgun. When you get back to your vehicle, you don't shoot out your magazines to unload it. You eject the shells one by one until it's empty. That's where the problem was. The shells were jamming in the chamber and would not extract. So I had to fix it.