Відео

@@shameelali2549 it supports that. Were you asking something in particular?

@@RickysHP u sort of didn't go into any detail.

I have only done it with the dongle. Keep in mind, any time I’ve updated the firmware of the inverter, it has wiped the entire configuration, so I’ve had to re-program the battery charge profile and such afterward, so be sure to save all of that off somewhere before doing an update.

@@RickysHP Hey thanks for the response! So basically I found your video helpful because I currently have a 120x2 Multiplus 2, and when I plug in shore power I get a very strong humming sound. I reached out to battery born who I got my victron products from and they told me they would walk me through reprogramming the inverter after I update. I’m just trying to decide if I should just get the dongle or if I should spring for the cerbo for the nice monitoring features.

@@Dubera mine had such an awful humming noise that resonated throughout the entire RV when I first got it and the firmware update cured it for good. The dongle is pretty inexpensive, but the Cerbo GX and the touch screen are SO incredibly useful, I would recommend also getting it to control the whole system. Once you have the touch screen, you will never have any need to touch the inverter itself in the future to change modes and set current input limits (such as if you had to plug in to a 30amp connection or a 15amp circuit at someone's house) ever again.

Hi there. The GC3 internal BMS doesn't externally communicate to anything else. With that said, the Victron inverter has a fully customizable charging profile, so you set all of the parameters with the same voltages and charge times that Battle Born calls for. The BMS in the batteries will not let them get damaged, and will control how quickly they take in power for charging. All of the battery state of charge information is provided by the Victron SmartShunt, however.

@@RickysHP Thanks for the reply. Trying to figure all this out IRT adding a second alternator and Wakespeed 500 as another charging source. I have a 5000W Victron Quattro 12/5000/220-100/100 120V VE.Bus ready for install to manage shore power, etc. Need to figure out the alternator charging via the regulator.

@@kevinmctarsney36 It looks like that Wakespeed has different configurable charging profiles, as well, and you can set LiFePO4 as a battery type, so it should know what voltages to charge at, once configured. The BMS on the Battle Born batteries won't let you over-charge anything, as best as I can tell, and they can take a charge at such a high rate, you'd be hard-pressed to feed them power too quickly. If you want an all-Victron setup, the Orion XS DC-to-DC 50amp charger may be something you may want to look into: www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-xs-12-12-50a-dc-dc-battery-charger

That area stays much cooler in the summer when you are running the A/C, because there is a vent behind the toilet… and in extreme cold, the batteries will be warmed by the furnace ducts that heat up the basement pass-through area. The floor in the front compartment is also fairly thin metal, as well, and I didn’t want to risk having failure with that. So yeah, there were a number of reasons why I ended up putting them where I did.

@@RickysHP Thanks for the quick answer. I'm getting ready to set up my new Grand Design FW as soon as it's delivered at the end of the month. Safe travels my friend.

You need to add the temp sensor probes to the Cerbo GX. I have a link in the description of the video to the temperature sensors. Once you have those and connect them, it’s just a matter of turning on the analog temperature inputs in the configuration on the touch screen. The latest firmware for the Gerbo GX now allows you to natively choose Fahrenheit versus Celsius without having to go into super user mode and manually enter the calculations.

@@RickysHP - thanks!

Hi Mike -- can you clarify which screen you're referring to? Maybe give me a time stamp in the video of which one it is and I can try to help you get there.

Thank you Ricky it’s at 21 minutes

@@mikenorris2346 oh, you should be able to just swipe to a new page and it should appear as you cycle through. I don't remember having to change anything to get that display where you set the current limit.

Hello Ricky, I go it! The "showboat & motorhome" function was not on in the display section on settings, Yikes! I been chasing that one for a few days now. Best

@@mikenorris2346 oh, good deal! I will remember that one!

You mean supply power from the batteries back out to the “shore power” source? It doesn’t allow for that, unfortunately.

@@RickysHP Thanks so much.

I was able to just gravity feed it down the wall. You can also use a metal fish tape to do runs like that, too.

You shouldn’t need one to get it powered up the first time, but to configure all of the charging parameters, you’ll probably want to have one.

@@RickysHP thanks again, for the video, I will be receiving my MK3 today and setting up the DC volts to charge at a higher rate now that I have added 1 more 300ah lithium. Now I just need to contact the company who sold me the batteries to get the charge profile. Thanks sean

If you’re not 100% sure that the charging profile is set up per Battle Born’s specs, I would recommend getting the ve.Direct to USB adapter dongle. There are a lot of settings in the inverter that you really can’t set any other way. It’s always better to be safe, plus you will ensure that you are getting a full charge in your batteries for maximum capability. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

Thank you.... I recently installed the newest firmware and that will erase your current settings. I contacted battleborn battery and they walked me through the newest firmware and settings. They are a great product and outstanding support for their products.

@@spev7989 yes! Their support is outstanding. And you’re correct. Any firmware updates on the inverter will clear the settings, unfortunately. You can save the settings to a file on your laptop prior to upgrading, too, but I haven’t tried to import a settings file from an older firmware export.

Because I don’t want to build my own batteries. Because I don’t want to buy Chinese stuff that has no company backing it. Because most of those cells can’t handle as high of sustained charge and discharge rates as the BB batteries. There are many reasons, but BB stands behind their products, and they have much better specifications than any of the China built junk out there.

Thanks for the tip! I’ll look into that.

This particular unit is already split-phase... It has two 50amp legs of power in and out, just like a standard 50amp RV has. The inverter output is 3000va, which is around 2400 watts, give or take, depending on temperature.

where?

You’re absolutely right. With that said, I never tow my RV without the power turned on. If I have blown fuses, I would want to find those first and resolve, anyway. In my case, my RV needs battery power regardless of the breakaway function because I have electric over hydraulic disc brakes, so I need to have battery available for the hydraulic brake fluid pump. The truck probably could power it, but don’t want to take chances on that. Never tried to tow it without battery power available. Also, I still have the factory 12v disconnect in my RV, so I can leave the “master cutoff” on, and turn off the factory one that turns off the 12v items inside the RV. That would still allow power to the factory buss bar.

Yes, they do! www.solar-electric.com/victron-multiplus-ii-inverter-charger-24-3000-70-50-2-120v.html

Yes! They do. Here is a link to all of the app version downloads available for the VictronConnect software: www.victronenergy.com/support-and-downloads/software

@@RickysHP Sorry but that won’t change a lot of my inverter settings? 😳 I wonder if getting that screen with the settings on it will change it? Victron sure doesn’t make it easy for Mac users! I don’t want to buy windows and learn how use it just to change my settings.

@@benjones8977 Oh, sorry to hear that. I guess the MacOS version is more like the mobile versions of the app where they don't let you change a lot of settings. Are you connecting to it via a USB cable? Or are you connecting via Bluetooth? It could be a Bluetooth limitation, perhaps? Maybe you can run Windows in Parallels or some other virtual machine on the Mac that you have to be able to use the Windows version of the software? Maybe borrow someone's PC laptop for an hour to set everything up?

@@RickysHP Too bad I can’t change things with dip sticks, but I really don’t understand those. Thanks for your help I will keep searching for answers. 🖖

@@benjones8977 ahh, the good old days! I totally understand where you're coming from. Best of luck, and hope you come up with something easily enough! The good thing is, once those settings are set, and you get the firmware updated to a stable point where you are happy with the inverter and how it's working, you shouldn't really need to do it again.

Unfortunately, connecting to the Cerbo GX with the VictronConnect App (via Bluetooth) is very limited in the functionality. You can't see any status of loads/charge states/etc. It really only allows you to configure network settings and go to the online VRM portal. You could potentially connect to the web interface on the CerboGX, but I've had issues getting it to work properly. In my opinion, to get full functionality, you pretty much have to also install the touch screen. It's strange how Victron sells all of the components separately, but likely the reason they do it is they make two different sized touch screens available to purchase. If you have the SmartShunt, you can also connect directly to it via the VictronConnect app via Bluetooth to see battery charge state and loads. Obviously that option won't let you change input current limits and other settings, but if you just want to check on your battery state of charge without a touch screen, that would be the way to go.

This page should help you get there: www.victronenergy.com/live/ccgx:root_access From what I remember, when it says to press and hold the right arrow, you basically slowly swipe your finger to the right on the touch screen. If you remote access into it with a laptop, the arrows will be available on that interface for you to do that same thing.

Thank you

For the purposes of this discussion, there isn't much difference, but yes. Thanks for the clarification. I'll update the title.

I believe there was a “remote management” or similar setting that gets turned on via laptop when initially setting it up. I am not near my rig at the moment, but can double check for that this evening or tomorrow, if you are still having troubles.

@@RickysHP thank you that would be great if you could thank you

@@RickysHP do you remember if it has to be done thru a laptop because I just set mine up thru the screen?

@@richardgollar6300 I’m pretty sure that’s where the setting was. I’ll double check for you, though.

Okay, so I just confirmed, when you use the Victron Connect on the laptop, there is a setting under General that says “Current limit overruled by remote.” That is what needs to be turned on to be able to set the max current limit on the remote touch screen.

I mounted my Cerbo GX in the basement pass-through storage close enough that I didn’t need an extender, however, you can use an HDMI extender and a USB extender as well. The USB cable is only providing power to the screen and nothing else.

In my opinion, the Cerbo GX with touch screen is almost essential to have all of the functionality of the system.

I had many issues with the plus GX rather than with the cerbo outside. This las has more capacity to process data due the hardware. Also many others capabilities from cerbo gx that you won’t find on multi gx.

The reason for that is to keep it from getting chaffed or otherwise torn up from moving things in or out of the basement storage. I still put tools and all kinds of other stuff in there. Zero issues with heat build-up or anything else (I check that stuff pretty closely).

Yes, that is the inverter output capacity.

@@RickysHP Then please correct your video title...

Huh?

The Cerbo GX does connect directly to the Multiplus, and you can control the Multiplus from the touch screen of the Cerbo GX. The Victron app can also be used, but it is on a PC, or a mobile device, so you would need to connect it to the Multiplus itself. I have not yet tried to connect the USB-to-VE adapter dongle to the CerboGX and then reach the Multiplus from there, but I'm guessing it would work, because the application does successfully find the Cerbo and the Multiplus upon launching it while connected to the Multiplus.

@@RickysHP My plan is to install a Cerbo Gx without the GX Monitor, so i need to control Multiplus trought the victron connect app, from my smartphone or ipad.

@@DaniloMongelli I’m sure you can, but the things you can change may be a bit limited. I do highly recommend considering the touch screen, because it’s so clean and instant, plus you can monitor battery charge level, loads, etc all from it.

Sorry to hear that about the dead batteries you have. The inverter setup really does make things a lot easier. I love NM. Safe travels!

Me again! Apologies, I’ve had a fiddle and found it. FYI if any one asks its under setting>Display and Language>Show boat and motor home overview

@@aljotock good to know! I actually didn’t have to change anything to get it to appear on mine, so I was going to have to do some digging to figure that one out. Glad it was simple!

Mine is only showing voltage on L1 because it’s on a 30amp connection. Once connected to a 50amp split-phase connection, it will automatically display the voltage on both. Also, because I’m using a 30amp-to-50amp adapter, it puts the same phase onto both legs, but the MultiPlus will only connect to and draw power from L1 in that situation, then output on both legs back to the power distribution panel.

I didn’t make myself clear sorry for that. How did you get those values to display on the touch screen. Like in your shore power side you have the power coming in then below that it shows what each leg is seeing. My display doesn’t show that

Yes, the DC to DC charger is coming. That will be soon. And agreed, on turning off the solar panels. Can basically create quite a surge at the controller, otherwise.

It was some generic no-name brand battery from China that I had before. The issue with it was that it was only rated to 100amp continuous draw. Worked fine for a stock 12v system in the RV that never would pull more than 50-60amps, but definitely wouldn’t run any good sized inverter. That’s perfect with the surge protector on your setup! I use a portable surge protector that’s external on mine, so didn’t have any other options that were good.

According to the Multiplus II manual, it states that the chassis ground conductor (wire) needs to be at least 4mm^2 in size, which is the equivalent of approximately 11AWG in US wire sizes... So anything larger than that is really just overkill for the application. I had the 6AWG wire on hand, so figured I would just use that to keep it consistent with the wire that I ran from the Lynx Distributor over to the original bus bar. Hope this helps answer your question.

@@RickysHP So as I understand it, you have a 6awg wire from the Lynx to the original busbar and then to the chassis ground location. And, you have a 6AwG wire that goes from the Multiplus ground screw to the chassis ground as well. Is that correct? If so, would it make sense to run the ground from the Multiplus unit itself to the Lynx? Or is that a bad idea?

@@43ten43 while that would technically provide a ground path, the ideal route is to have it go straight to chassis ground. The chassis ground for the Multiplus is a failsafe path in case something catastrophic happens, so I wanted it to be its own dedicated path.

@@RickysHP I think they are referring to the ground for grounding the Multiplus II itself to the chassis ground, but the system needs a ground equal to the positive + supply from the batteries. Meaning a 4/0 from the Lynx to the chassis ground bolt. In major event all the power that can flow thru the 4/0 red will follow the ground to the frame. Hence, 4/0 will transfer the power to the 6ga and fry that wire before the 400 amp fuse blows.

Oh, that's a great tip! I just ordered the voltage converter that he recommended and will wire that up into my system! I was hoping to eventually add that functionality, but that makes it quite simple to do.

@@RickysHP I'm glad they are back in stock. When I ordered they were out and I had to get a larger one that sits outside the Lynx.

@@bryanwood84 that’s unfortunate. It’s interesting that they’re a 4-pack. I only need one. Haha.

Wrong is an opinion. Everyone has their own way that they think is the only way, however you may have missed the part where I stated that I'd like to eventually run a dedicated line from my generator, into the transfer switch, so that I don't have to mess with digging out a heavy 50amp cord that's 25ft long just to power on my generator and power up the RV. Future planning is what it is all about. Nothing is "wrong" about that, since it all works. Furthermore, with the cost of copper these days, the transfer switch is arguably cheaper than buying a whole new wire to run from all the way at the back of the RV to my front storage bay.

Nope. Not the MultiPlus II 2x120…. It has one AC IN, one AC OUT that is the pass through and where the inverter provides power when inverting, and there is an AC OUT 2 that is a pass through and does not get power supplied from the inverter. AC OUT 2 is only powered when there is shore power. You can go to the Victron page and look at the underside photo to see what I’m talking about, here: www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multiplus-ii-2x-120v The transfer switch is a fancy splice device right now, in my installation. Eventually I would like to run a dedicated line from my generator to the other input of the transfer switch so that it will be seamless. I can just push a button to start it and have it powering things up a few seconds later.

@@RickysHP I also have a Victron Multiplus II 12/3000/120. Sure power on the power in. With two outlets. I use outlet one. If you turn inverter on it will run off batteries. If I plug sure power or generator into the rv socket and turn it on within 10 seconds it will automatically switch to sure power 20 milliseconds. I suggest you read the instructions again. Will Prowse has a video on it.

@@kenlillia that is only switching between batteries and shore power. My transfer switch will additionally allow me to switch between two sources of “shore power.” (One being an actual generator). You are talking about something entirely different. The MultiPlus acts like a UPS in the way you are describing it. I added the transfer switch for a seamless way to switch between different AC IN sources. Believe me, I know very well how it all works.

@@RickysHP good luck.

@@kenlillia thanks. It’s all working just fine. No luck needed on this one. :)

Thank you! I’ve got a few more episodes coming soon with some of the configuration and monitoring via the Touch 50 screen as well as through a laptop. Subscribe for notifications when I put the next videos up.

Yes!

Oh , two rear ends which I never heard go out in anything before but they where all covered under warranty. In shop when they discovered it working on transmissions. Nothing pulled, just Highway mileage. I have been blessed as it seems to give warnings then falls apart at shop.350,000 plus miles so far

@@michaelmcdaris2656 I'm pretty sure even a GM would be more reliable than that. Wow. I switched to F150s and an F350 now, and have had no kind of major problems.

lol, at least I didn't hit anything in the process. Or spin... 😉

I've been burned way too many times by falling out of stage at ProSolos because of the car/suspension settling after I've staged, or the car rolling slightly. I don't want to take the risk of losing runs any more. But, at Mineral Wells, the staging area is always on a slight up-hill, so you absolutely have to do it at that site.

Yep, and after all the issues I went back and forth on them with on this truck and knowing how particular I was with it, how could they let this out of their shop in this condition? They ended up putting a new driveshaft in it for free,but still... Why did this even have to happen?