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Nice glad the video helped you out.

It is best to follow the mix ratio for the resin you are using. It will tell you how to mix the resin and hardener on the bottles which you are using. If you have allready mixed it and its been left for 24 hours to harden but its still sof, then adding more hardener wont make any difference. Once the resin has been left to harden and if the mix is wrong it wont harden even if you add more hardener.. People sometimes scrape the top layer off and then repour with a new resin mix which means the outside will harden but the inside wont. Hope this helps you out.

Yep very easy to retract and then slowly pull the filament out

Hi yes you can turn the tower off In Anycubic Next slicer, if you look on the left hand side where it says "Quality" "Strength" "Speed" "Support" ect if you click on "Others" it opens up bed adhesion and prime tower. You can turn it off on or on from there, and you can also change the prime tower width and volume ect .. hope that helps

Try and push the whole hotend up as far as it will go because sometimes that clip which holds the hotend in, does not go into the groove which is at the top of the copper bit.

You should def be able to tighten or loosen both sets of wheels. Try loosening off the nut on the outside first and then the innner nut. You should also be able to move the x axis bar up and down, it should not be so loose that it is easy to move the bar but you should still be able to move it

@@resin-art-and-3d-printing how do you tighten/loosen the back/outside Wheels when there is no hexagon nut? I can only adjust the two on the inside. If i adjust the two in the inside the ones on the outside adjust a little accordingly, but after a while the two inside ones are tight enough, but the ones on the outside still are too loose, especially the bottom outside ones. Only if i tighten the inside ones really hard, the outside ones become tight enough, but then Im afraid that the inside ones are way too tight. Are all the wheels having the exact same friction for you when you roll over with your hand?

@@raynlaze1339 There are two screws on the outside which you can tighten up or very slightly losen but when you tighten up the inside that should also tighten up the outside ones

@@resin-art-and-3d-printing Do you mean the screws at the back that are on the frame going in y direction (for the outside wheels)? Because those only seem to hold the wheel on the frame, not loosen or tighten the wheel. Yes, but like I said, when I tighten the inside ones, only when they are very very tight, the outside wheels become a little tight, and I assume they should all be the same tightness no? How do I get that result?

@@raynlaze1339 Hi the outside wheels should tighten up when you tighten up the inside wheels. Mine are both thight so that you can not move them easily with your fingers. The only other thing I can think of is why they are not is maybe the screws at the back are loose. When I tighten my inside ones they also tighten my outside ones. I have never had this problem like you are having. Also if it is not affecting your prints then I would leave it as it is because you do not want to over tighten the wheels and burn your motor out. You should be able to lift the X axis up and down with a little effort so it should not be so loose that you can lift it up and down easily. If it is affecting your prints and the outside wheels do not tightening up then I would contact Anycubic support to see if they can suggest anything. Sorry I can't help you with this one as I have never had this problem on my printer.

Hi I have not had this issue when printing with multi colours but you might have a peice of filament jammed in the Ace pro mechanism, and there are videos online showing how to get to the mechanism to get the filament out, Or contact Anycubic support and they should be able to help you out, sorry I cant help you with this as its never happened to me and hope you can get it sorted.

Ohh right I never had that before but glad you got it sorted and thanks for sharing

Hi the ones which came with the printer fit in they are just a little bit fiddly

Thanks glad the video hleped you out

The water was used to measure out how much resin I needed to mix to reduce on resin waste

Hi yep it can depending on how many colour changes there are. There is an option to turn the purge tower off on the slicer and also turn the flush volume down on the printer screen which does cut down on the amount of purge.

@@resin-art-and-3d-printing Thanks for sharing that info I didn’t know that, do you know where I can turn it off as there’s not Much information on how to use the software. Thanks for your help 👍🏻

@@funit64 Hi I made a quick video on how to turn the wipe tower off on the slicer and how to reduce the flush volume on the printer screen.. Hope this helps you out. ua-cam.com/video/R3Kq_GI0Sxs/v-deo.htmlsi=i7Gutbuhl54omtd_

Hi this is the Anycubic slicer based on the Prusa slicer. The link for it is here uk.anycubic.com/pages/firmware-software?SP_UK_ROAS_1.15&SP_UK_ROAS_1.15&Anycubic&Anycubic+UK&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi5q3BhCiARIsAJCfuZkYhLBlhRws165ZThFh-wr2VslrsG-ZBI-hCSnPl8NQiMuk_oxFCFYaAhpaEALw_wcB

Hi there is an option in the more settings down on the right had side of the slicer, then go into Advance Mode then click on Multiple Filiment on the left hand side, that will open up three options for you to change the colour of the support material/ raft /skirt filament and support material/raft imterface fliament and wipe tower filament..they are all set to default and if you click where it says default it gives you an option to chose the colours. Hope this helps, if you are still unsure let me know and Ill make a quick video on it.

Hi you can download all the files from Twotrees Laser webiste here www.twotrees3dofficial.com/en-gb/pages/twotrees-download?srsltid=AfmBOoqHeOMW1gAkeI_NmrLjaxYl4FSRHl4OmoKis0ys2CupZnE5vK5Q

Your welcome and I hope you get it sorted. I have seen some posts where after a firmware update prints were failing so they went back to the version before they upgraded which seemed to fix the issue. I normally wait a few weeks before installing updated firmware to see how other users get on with it. I always do a complete auto level after each firmware update and so far I have not had any issues. Good luck and I hope it works for you too.

Hi thank you and gald it helped you out

Hi Im not sure but these moulds do not use a lot of resin as they are not very deep. What you can do is use a jug with measurments and fill the mould with water from the jug before you mix up your resin, This will give you an idea on the amount you need to mix for it.

@@resin-art-and-3d-printing thank you, I have used that method for other molds, just thought you could save me a step. Love the clock.

@@justlooking1985 Thanks

Hi mate im not sure what you mean by one after another. If you duplicate the object and put multiply objects on the slicer bed it will print all of those together. If you want to do a large object which only one will fit on the bed then I think you have to completly print and finish it first and then print it again. Im not sure there is a setting where it will keep on printing the same object once its finished.

@@resin-art-and-3d-printing In your example you have four rings. I would like the printer to finish the first before starting the second, then the third ... . I want to avoid printing one, remove it, print the next, remove it ... . So i can make more in shorter time. The standard setting is to print all objekts at the same time, layer by layer. This has a lot of unnessasary movement and the time between printing the layers may be to high to merge so the layers will be very visable. If i can finish one objekt first before starting the next this may be avoided. But i didn't found the settings for this kind of printing.

@@GGTonyHawk Ahh right this is what they call " Sequential printing " / one at a time. I do not think that the Anycubic slicer supports that yet. I know that Prusa slicer has that feature. Im not sure if the Orca version of the Anycubic slicer has that as I use the Anycubic Prusa version and that does not have this feature yet. Maybe they will add it later on.

Hi thanks I can't really say if its the best 3d printer to buy if you are new to 3d printing as I am also new to 3d printing and there are other models like Bambu which a lot of people say are also very good. One thing I can say is this printer printed out of the box , was very easy to set up and so far I have had no real problems with it, but there are other who have had nothing but problems with this printer. Maybe keep doing research and make up your own mind which 3d printer would best suit you.

@@resin-art-and-3d-printing Hi! thanks for the respond. Yes Iam searching for all answers on youtube. Bambu or Kobra, we will see... it depends price but of course I would on start like to have a good 3D printer! :) This was helpful anyway, thanks again.. i will look att you other videos! :)

@@resin-art-and-3d-printing Hi again. I Ordered it because the price for all combo and delivery to sweden it cost 485 USD. I think it is a very good price for the beginner. Well Bambu should wait, or maybe anycubic will get better with upgrades and firmware.. I think its going to pay of! Cheers!!!!

@@mirokantolic9036 Wow nice. The Ace Pro and the price is what made me buy the printer, because we live in the UK it can get very damp and during the summer high humidity so wanted the dryer for the filament. So far the printer has been really good and I am enjoying it. Good luck with your printer and hope it all goes well for you. :)

I recommend an a1 mini or a1 from bambu.

You are welcome. I'm glad it was helpful and thank you for subscribing

I forgot I already made one with how to use the colour. So all you do is paint the object in the colours you want using the anycubic slicer (I use the Prusa version) and then make sure you sync your slicer where is says Filament on the top right hand side of the slicer. There is a little Icon and if you put your mouse over it it will say ( Sync Filament from Ace pro) you also have to tell the printer what colours you have in the Ace pro box which you do on the filament section on the printer screen. Once you have told the printer what colours are in the box then go to you slicer and click on that little icon and you will see a green message saying that it has corretly synced. Once it has synced you can then use the colour painting on the left hand side of the slicer and paint your object. ua-cam.com/video/bXrmtRdAq0s/v-deo.htmlsi=kFsEOUDwwTnka7K3

Ok will do if I get that error code

Thank you :)

Hi thanks and glad it helped you

Yep I have been printing with it for over a month now and straight out of the box. I only ever had one problem where it would not self level. I checked all the conectors and wires to make sure they were all pushed in and not come loose and it was fine again after and still printing with it :)

No a dropped screw on the plate would not scratch it. They are pretty hard If you use sharp objects like screwdrivers or knives to get prints off then that would more than likely scratch it. Good luck whith your printer :) you will love it

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Hi once the curing time has passed it still will not set The harderner would need to be added during the mixxing

Thank you 😊 for your reply that means a lot ☺️

This is on a 5.5 Watt diode laser head which normaly only have one lens and becuase its exposed to smoke while engraving and cutting, the outside of the lens does need cleaning. Not sure about CO2 lasers or fiber laser though.

Yep Think it was the lighting which made the video look all fuzzy

Hi they come with glasses and I also have it in a box/ cover when its being used with laser protection viewing windows plus it also has an extraction fan with ducting which goes out of the window

Thank you :) I am still learning and still making a lot of mistakes which I do share in my videos, so hopefully people won't do the same and save themselves a bit of money.