![Three Sons Restorations](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- 4
- 204 292
Three Sons Restorations
United States
Приєднався 30 кві 2019
Welcome to our channel!
This channel is dedicated to restoring old tools, toys and trinkets which have been discarded, or given/sold to us. When we restore, we also dig for the history behind our items, and share that information with you.
Why tools and toys? It is our intention to share the completed restorations you see here with our three sons, for their own use and enjoyment. We hope that they, too, will develop a love of history, and also desire to create or re-create with their hands. Perhaps our sons will pass along their cherished restorations and the stories behind them to their own children one day.
We may sometimes upload other random videos at our whim.
We hope you enjoy our content. For business-related inquiries, please contact us via the email address listed below.
Thank you for visiting!
This channel is dedicated to restoring old tools, toys and trinkets which have been discarded, or given/sold to us. When we restore, we also dig for the history behind our items, and share that information with you.
Why tools and toys? It is our intention to share the completed restorations you see here with our three sons, for their own use and enjoyment. We hope that they, too, will develop a love of history, and also desire to create or re-create with their hands. Perhaps our sons will pass along their cherished restorations and the stories behind them to their own children one day.
We may sometimes upload other random videos at our whim.
We hope you enjoy our content. For business-related inquiries, please contact us via the email address listed below.
Thank you for visiting!
Best Japanning Recipe for Restorations (Stanley, Singer, Ford)
I test six different recipes for Japanning, in order to find the one that gives the most consistent finish for my future restorations.
TIMESTAMPS:
1:20 Ingredients for Japanning
6:00 The Six Recipes Tested
6:55 Methods of Preparation
12:35 Results
RECIPES TESTED:
A. Plane Dealer’s 50/30/20: www.plane-dealer.com/single-post/2016/10/15/What-is-that-stuff-japanning
Adjustments: 200F is not a high enough temp for a full cure. Bake at intervals of 275F for one hour, then 350F for one hour, and then 400F for one hour, or until the finish is hard.
B. JayT’s 2:1 blend: www.lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/32411
Adjustments: I do not see the need to let the paint sit for more than 1 hour before baking, as good flow-out occurs. A second bake at 375F for 1 hour was required for the finish to harden.
C. McBrownie’s 40/40/20 blend: www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4285349&postcount=326
Adjustments: added 40ml Senefelder’s to thicken up the mixture. Baking at 400F causes the finish to smoke and thin out too much at edges. Start at a lower temp such as 275F for one hour, then 350F for one hour, then 400F for one hour.
D. Ford F-101 blend: www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm
Adjustments: after noticing some congealing after mixing, as well as particulate in the finish, I reduced lamp black, increased BLO, and used turpentine instead of mineral spirits for better dissolution. To avoid smoking, I started at a lower temp of 300F for one hour, then 350F for one hour, then to 400F for one hour until finish hardened.
E. D.C.’s 50/50 blend: www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/ColdCureJapanning.html
Adjustment: added 350ml more marine spar varnish. Even then, the varnish did not completely dissolve the powdered asphaltum. Finish was too grainy, was not easy to paint on, and had slow flow-out. Conclusion: powdered asphaltum must be dissolved in a hydrocarbon base first before added to spar varnish, such as in recipe B.
F. G.R.'s 40/40/20 blend: aplanelife.us/blogs/f/japanning-or-the-art-of-embracing-the-arcane
Adjustment: added 100ml turpentine, but recipe was not salvageable due to congealing over 72 hours after initial mix. Second attempt (mix 2.4oz asphaltum with 3.2oz turpentine, allow to sit 24 hours, then add oil) also failed due to congealing. The oil needed to be added during initial mixing.
HTR UA-cam video: ua-cam.com/video/SBqgpdBNrt8/v-deo.html&t
WINNING FORMULAS:
#1: Recipe D (Ford recipe):
To make 8oz, mix 2.56oz gilsonite powder with 4.4oz real turpentine. Mix well before adding 0.10oz of lamp black powder. Mix well before adding 1.8oz purified, cold-pressed BLO. Cover tightly and let set for at least 72 hours. Apply a thin to medium coat to surfaces, then cover and let sit for one hour to allow the paint to flow out. Start in a cold electric oven, and bake at 300F for one hour. Allow to completely cool. Repeat baking process at 350F for one hour, then to 400F for one hour until hard and dry. Sand & re-coat as necessary. Allow to fully cure for at least one week.
#2: Recipe C (40/40/20 Recipe):
To make 340ml, mix 280ml Senefelder’s liquid asphaltum with 60ml purified, cold-pressed BLO. Cover tightly and let sit for at least 72 hours. If too thin, add more Senefelder’s; if too thick, add more BLO. For vertical surfaces, test a piece first to ensure it doesn’t sag; if it does, thicken it up. Apply a thin coat to surfaces, then cover and let sit for one hour to allow the paint to flow out. Start in a cold electric oven, and bake at 275F for one hour. Allow to completely cool. Repeat baking process at intervals of 50F, up to 400F if needed, for one hour until dry and hard. Sand & re-coat as necessary. Allow to fully cure for at least one week.
PRODUCTS USED:
100-micron filters: amzn.to/37yzFBx
½” mop paint brush: amzn.to/3fjq9ow
Steel wool: amzn.to/37tTuKs
Paint booth: amzn.to/3dV5bfr
Hot Plate Magnetic Stirrer: amzn.to/2XWf7j8
Beakers: amzn.to/2XWYns0
Gilsonite: search ebay user quartzpegmatite or www.graphicchemical.com/
Purified BLO: www.solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm
Senefelder’s: www.graphicchemical.com/
Real Gum Turpentine: amzn.to/2BWZ6Rs
Lamp black: www.naturalpigments.com/lamp-black-pigment.html
Marine spar varnish: amzn.to/2CFnDry
DISCLAIMERS:
I own nothing: credits go to their rightful owners. For entertainment/educational purposes only. I’m not responsible for any fires, cancers, divorces, or other misfortunes that come about during your own attempts at japanning. This video and/or description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links above, I’ll receive a small commission. I have not been otherwise compensated to use or discuss any of the tools or equipment seen in this video.
#japanning #recipe #stanley #plane
TIMESTAMPS:
1:20 Ingredients for Japanning
6:00 The Six Recipes Tested
6:55 Methods of Preparation
12:35 Results
RECIPES TESTED:
A. Plane Dealer’s 50/30/20: www.plane-dealer.com/single-post/2016/10/15/What-is-that-stuff-japanning
Adjustments: 200F is not a high enough temp for a full cure. Bake at intervals of 275F for one hour, then 350F for one hour, and then 400F for one hour, or until the finish is hard.
B. JayT’s 2:1 blend: www.lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/32411
Adjustments: I do not see the need to let the paint sit for more than 1 hour before baking, as good flow-out occurs. A second bake at 375F for 1 hour was required for the finish to harden.
C. McBrownie’s 40/40/20 blend: www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4285349&postcount=326
Adjustments: added 40ml Senefelder’s to thicken up the mixture. Baking at 400F causes the finish to smoke and thin out too much at edges. Start at a lower temp such as 275F for one hour, then 350F for one hour, then 400F for one hour.
D. Ford F-101 blend: www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm
Adjustments: after noticing some congealing after mixing, as well as particulate in the finish, I reduced lamp black, increased BLO, and used turpentine instead of mineral spirits for better dissolution. To avoid smoking, I started at a lower temp of 300F for one hour, then 350F for one hour, then to 400F for one hour until finish hardened.
E. D.C.’s 50/50 blend: www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/ColdCureJapanning.html
Adjustment: added 350ml more marine spar varnish. Even then, the varnish did not completely dissolve the powdered asphaltum. Finish was too grainy, was not easy to paint on, and had slow flow-out. Conclusion: powdered asphaltum must be dissolved in a hydrocarbon base first before added to spar varnish, such as in recipe B.
F. G.R.'s 40/40/20 blend: aplanelife.us/blogs/f/japanning-or-the-art-of-embracing-the-arcane
Adjustment: added 100ml turpentine, but recipe was not salvageable due to congealing over 72 hours after initial mix. Second attempt (mix 2.4oz asphaltum with 3.2oz turpentine, allow to sit 24 hours, then add oil) also failed due to congealing. The oil needed to be added during initial mixing.
HTR UA-cam video: ua-cam.com/video/SBqgpdBNrt8/v-deo.html&t
WINNING FORMULAS:
#1: Recipe D (Ford recipe):
To make 8oz, mix 2.56oz gilsonite powder with 4.4oz real turpentine. Mix well before adding 0.10oz of lamp black powder. Mix well before adding 1.8oz purified, cold-pressed BLO. Cover tightly and let set for at least 72 hours. Apply a thin to medium coat to surfaces, then cover and let sit for one hour to allow the paint to flow out. Start in a cold electric oven, and bake at 300F for one hour. Allow to completely cool. Repeat baking process at 350F for one hour, then to 400F for one hour until hard and dry. Sand & re-coat as necessary. Allow to fully cure for at least one week.
#2: Recipe C (40/40/20 Recipe):
To make 340ml, mix 280ml Senefelder’s liquid asphaltum with 60ml purified, cold-pressed BLO. Cover tightly and let sit for at least 72 hours. If too thin, add more Senefelder’s; if too thick, add more BLO. For vertical surfaces, test a piece first to ensure it doesn’t sag; if it does, thicken it up. Apply a thin coat to surfaces, then cover and let sit for one hour to allow the paint to flow out. Start in a cold electric oven, and bake at 275F for one hour. Allow to completely cool. Repeat baking process at intervals of 50F, up to 400F if needed, for one hour until dry and hard. Sand & re-coat as necessary. Allow to fully cure for at least one week.
PRODUCTS USED:
100-micron filters: amzn.to/37yzFBx
½” mop paint brush: amzn.to/3fjq9ow
Steel wool: amzn.to/37tTuKs
Paint booth: amzn.to/3dV5bfr
Hot Plate Magnetic Stirrer: amzn.to/2XWf7j8
Beakers: amzn.to/2XWYns0
Gilsonite: search ebay user quartzpegmatite or www.graphicchemical.com/
Purified BLO: www.solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm
Senefelder’s: www.graphicchemical.com/
Real Gum Turpentine: amzn.to/2BWZ6Rs
Lamp black: www.naturalpigments.com/lamp-black-pigment.html
Marine spar varnish: amzn.to/2CFnDry
DISCLAIMERS:
I own nothing: credits go to their rightful owners. For entertainment/educational purposes only. I’m not responsible for any fires, cancers, divorces, or other misfortunes that come about during your own attempts at japanning. This video and/or description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links above, I’ll receive a small commission. I have not been otherwise compensated to use or discuss any of the tools or equipment seen in this video.
#japanning #recipe #stanley #plane
Переглядів: 21 297
Відео
2011-2017 Honda Odyssey Front Brakes & Rotors Replacement (4th Gen)
Переглядів 47 тис.4 роки тому
I replace the front rotors and brake pads on a 2016 Honda Odyssey. The process I show is the same for all 4th-generation Honda Odysseys. Thank you for watching and please consider subscribing if you enjoy my content. Tools/Lubricants Used: Jack Stands: amzn.to/3eCWjeQ Impact Wrench: amzn.to/2YCqpK0 Impact Driver: amzn.to/3dCiKPY Mechanics Tool Set: amzn.to/386mDvy Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2NBeMMI...
The Copper Coil Air Dryer/Compressor Aftercooler DIY (Setup Part Two)
Переглядів 82 тис.4 роки тому
To skip to the assembly process, go to 3:28 I discuss the assembly of my copper coil water cooler/dryer, which I use to keep moisture out of my air lines. To learn more about the setup of my compressor and air lines, please click on Part One of this video series. Link for aftercooler idea: www.cnccookbook.com/aftercooling-a-compressor-to-cut-down-on-moisture/ Parts: 20ft ½” copper coil (find at...
60-Gallon Air Compressor Setup and Shop Air Installation Industrial Air (Setup Part One)
Переглядів 55 тис.4 роки тому
I discuss the assembly of my 60-gallon Industrial Air compressor and shop air lines. To learn more about my homemade copper coil air dryer, please click on Part Two of this video series. Link to YT Video discussing G-style coupler: ua-cam.com/video/i44D8JBMhyY/v-deo.html Parts Used: Industrial Air 60-gallon Compressor: amzn.to/2WsGQHn Powermate Tank Drain Assembly: amzn.to/3fVkM02 4” x 4” Anti-...
I’ve been thinking of possible alternatives to the wall mounted copper design, so your design struck a chord with me. You’ve been very resourceful with sourcing the components. I find myself wondering why you didn’t have the air go in at the bottom and leave from a vertical extension at the top, with a larger sump for the collected water? At up to a certain limit of airflow (determined by the gradient of the pipe and the height of the vertical extension at the top) the water condensing on the walls of the pipe would drain against the airflow under gravity into the sump. The air leaving the condenser would be less likely to carry liquid water through into the post filter.
About those retaining screws on Honda rotors. Those are JIS heads, not Philips. The reason so many people strip out those screws and then have to drill them is because they're trying to unscrew them with a philips head screwdriver. Use a impact driver with a JIS head like an Impacta 980, and it will come out.
Hahaha does my head in using imperial and metric together hahaha when will you Americans go metric????
That pin seemed very hard to move up and down after you put it in. Those brackets are like 100 ft lbs torque, don't think anti seize is needed for that high of a torque but never hurts I guess. :)Great video, thanks.
slick setup, great explanation.
thank u for detailed and clear explanation!
I love your videos and why we have not seen more, only 4 videos 3 years ago? I would like you to show us some sandblasting project and powder coating???
Amazing video, thanks for putting so much effort into a quick info packed video!
I'll bet it was fun getting that copper tubing connected to the fitting that feeds through the bottom of the bucket. I really appreciated your explanation of psychrometrics. I teach that subject frequently, and it's amazing to me how few people building these coolers really understand WHY there's air in the lines, and how to get rid of it. Many people mistakenly believe the moisture condenses out of the air because of a drop in pressure inside the dryer tubing and that the temperature differential is not necessary. I'm curious why, after all the thought and craftmanship you put into this, you didn't opt to install the dryer between the compressor output and the tank. Although maybe you're someone who just prefers to drain the water out of his tank after each use.
I just finished my brakes. Thanks for the info 👍
Awesome ❤ love to learn any thing
Thank you! This is the exact type of content i crave. Question, what about colors, any chance we have a recipe for 50 oem/50% green?
How about running it through a small chest freezer instead of a bucket of water, or a bucket of water in a mini fridge ?
Does the air compressor kick off at 155 psi? How has this air compressor held up? Any problems?
In theory this is correct but your build of it will only have any condensed water be carried on into the rest of the system with the way you have the oulet at the lowest part of the system. 😢
If i cant fimd the copper anti seize near me would it be ok to use one thats a blend of aluminum, copper and graphite
How do you convert percentages into parts by weight?
Great and informative video. Thanks! I also love the involvement of your young people. They are lucky kids to get this experience. Well done!
How has this been working for you? My concern with this type of air cooler is water laying in that bucket and growing things.
The best of the best “how to video”. Thank you
Brilliant, cool air is also best for paint spraying.
Hi - thanks for this useful video! When baking in an electric oven does it matter if you use the top, bottom or both heating elements?
Followed your instructions, worked beautifully!
I'm trying to understand what the punch bar in the bucket is for. I might be missing it, but I'm not hearing the reason for that.
for the coil, what are its internal and external dimensions? that one youre using looks much larger than the specs included would indicate
Do you remember during school when the teacher was trying to explain something to the class, did that instructor have loud music playing in the classroom background?? Why do people who post you tube videos seem to have this domineering need to do this ?? WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!........17.3 seconds have past since the last time I checked my cell phone to see if someone called me!!!!!!.....be right back......
If you're too stupid to be able to digest information with background music you're probably too stupid to figure out how to coil up some copper tube and put it in a bucket of water 🤷♂️ This content may just not be for you.
Great video, but just a thought, the copper tubing should be insulated/isolated from the perforated metal strap/flat bar. Recipe for galvanic corrosion and potential “boom” hazard amongst other things.
raw shoul be used, if cobalt is added,and heated, polymerization has already begun. Raw adheres better to the iron, (Just like seasoning a cast iron skillet), and forms a more elastic, longer lasting, shinier finish. Also carbon black should be added to facilitate the incorporation of monomers, and short chain polymers onto the longer chains, in addition to connecting the longer chains. after the solution is fully prepared, and cooled to RT, then the catylists ar added, the part is coated and then baked to result in polymer formation and adhesion to the metal, and to itself
I like that idea.
Great video thanks. Would you happen to know when Singer switched from Japanning to paint
Being in the compressed air field for over 40 years, I have seen people use old refrigerators with that same coil of tubing inside of the refrigerator. Kind of a cheap refrigerated compressed, air dryer
Exactly what I'm planning with a dorm fridge a rental tenant left behind. Wondering why more folks don't do it.
more than likely they just don’t know
What a hidden gem! Thank you! Just what i needed.
Now this is the content I've been looking for!
Very good, BUT using a grinder the way you showed at 4:32 is a great way to cut your gut open, never in push, always in pull.
Well done.
It would not be much more of a step up to build a refrigerated type and performance would be greater. Essentially an air conditioning evaporator that your compressor air runs thru. Evap temp would be similar to that of an AC unit as to not freeze the moisture as it condenses. One simple way around the complex aspect of designing a system is to use a water chiller to cool the bucket of water, thus negating the need to buy ice. This is how i built a refrigerated computer cooler before.
Would this work with an air hose instead of copper tube?
What a fantastic tutorial. It was clear and very well done
Good vid. You may want to update your description and / or pin a comment... The Centric 117.40052 Front Disc Brake Hardware Kit seems to no longer contain the little rubber booties for the slider pins. They still show the boots in the product images, but the boots did not arrive in my package. Additionally, the hardware (sans booties) already ships with the Akebono pads, so buying the Centric kit seems unnecessary. If you need the booties, Autozone and the like has them for 6ish bucks.
Wow! Hands down the best in depth video I have watched to date. Great work! I appreciate the small details. 👊
So you're using electricity to run the refrigerator cooling system to produce ice? Really? Afaics, The air path is compressor to service line, bypassing the tank?
how is the compressor holding up to this day?
As others commented, really awesome video. At 2:02 - I'm curious why you replaced the brake pad with so much life still left. Were you trying to fix a case of brake judder?
Found this power cord for mine based on your video, so thanks! FWIW, a 20 Amp breaker is just fine for mine, and it's about 70 feet from the panel on 10-2 wire. My understanding is 30 Amp is too much, and could be bad for the motor. FLA of 17.2 x 25% or 30% is a shade over 20, but again, I've never tripped it. If it was a problem, I was going to switch to a 25 Amp breaker.
This japanning is some serious stuff. What do they use on modern hand planes? I would think a 2 part epoxy or polyester resin with pigment would be a really durable coating. And you can make cool colors.
I liked your presentation
Do you have a recommendation for the screening mesh of the Gilsonite? I see most is screened to 200 mexh, but one supplier screens to 350 mesh. Thanks. Fantastic bit of researching, loved it!
Dude, this video is great! Interesting history and facts. Also I like that you include where I can buy it!
This is how "how to" videos should be done. I'm not trying to watch a bad sitcom about mechanics blabbering on with the guys behind the camera, I just want detailed instructions from a qualified expert. Can you please do a similar video on the rear brakes? I can't find a good one like yours. Cheers!
Here's one thing that I see with a system like this: Your cold water will start being less cold from the minute you put it in the bucket, even if you don't use the compressor, through natural heat movement. The more heat you put in the bucket, the more that transfers to the water and heating it up, and the less efficient this system will become, even to the point of probably no heat transfer at all if you are using the compressor enough. I couldn't know any numbers, but I would guess this system is only good for short uses of the compressor during summer months (assuming you aren't in a cooled shop)? I'd love to do some measurements on that system. I guess you could keep adding ice to the bucket to try and keep the best efficiency and heat transfer (whatever that factor may be) in the system. It for sure is better than not having any thing so I'm not knocking it. But where I live in east Texas, I'd think we'd need another system. My compressors pump out so much water in the middle of summer. Funny, in winter, I start thinking my system has miraculously cured itself from water vapor issues. Right about this time of year, I start to see water vapor reappear to give me headaches until it cools off again around Nov. Thanks for sharing.
did you really justvwrite this? you stupid mthfkr...we are laughing at you...screen shotted and sharing with our company engineers😂😂😂😂😂😂