Відео

Thank you for your lovely feedback! and I'm glad you like our methods :)

Thank you so much for your comment! We really appreciate the lovely feedback and are glad you enjoyed our video! :)

Hi, You only need to use a very small amount of white spirit if the Grain Filler is slightly dry. Otherwise use it directly from the tin. I hope this helps :)

Hi, yes you can use a water-based stain over the top of grain filler. I hope this helps :)

Thank you :)

Thankyou! 😁

Hi, thank you for your comment. I suppose it depends on how damaged the gilding is. in this case this frame was very worn and damaged so it benefitted from the restoration. You can choose how far you restore the piece, it is just a choice of personal preference! I hope this helps! :)

Thank you :)

Thank you for your message, with Onyx you could try using the Antiquax Marble Wax ( priorypolishes.co.uk/product/antiquax-marble-wax/ ) as this is for polished light stone/marble. I hope this helps :)

@@priorypolishes thank you I will try it!

@@priorypolishes I cannot thank you enough. The wax is perfect and the clock already looks so much better . Thanks again!

@@matthewsands7170 That's fantastic! if you have any images please feel free to send to our email or social media for a chance to be featured! 😄 Email: info@priorypolishes.co.uk Instagram: @priorypolishes Facebook: Priory Polishes

Hi Mike, thank you for your comment. On the video at the bottom left of the screen there is a button which mutes the music! I hope this helps :)

@@priorypolishes I didn't realise there was no commentary. Sorry.

Oh no Rip! Maybe if you bought our beeswax you would have survived! 😉

Hi, yes this will harden once you have finished buffing it in! Hope this helps :)

⁠@@priorypolishesthat’s amazing. We have a small hairline crack that’s appeared in our oak otterman, I presume this would work in the same way?

@@robertchinn8728 Hi yes this should work absolutely on your oak otterman!

He didn't sand properly. He should of water washed to raise the grain and could of used a much higher quality ceramic or silicon carbide paper on a block p150 should of done it or a light going over with p120, then p180 and p240. You cannot use a plane as the venner is too thin.

Hi, Thank you for your lovely feedback :)

Hi, Thank you for your lovely feedback :)

Hi, our music is copyright free and we have had no complaints as of yet. There is a mute button on the video you can press to not hear the music. A lot of people like to see the process of the task, in our description, we have time stamps so that you can skip to the next step quickly! I hope this helps :)

Sorry but it was tedious . How many times do you have to be shown how to scrape varnish off! @@priorypolishes

@@pennysavervh You are absolutely entitled to your opinion, however we have never had any complaints on the length of the video! Like I stated before, people love to watch the entire process of the restoration, and there is a button to skip if not! :)

Hi yes this is suitable on most wood veneers but always test on a small patch to ensure compatibility! Hope this helps :)

and the rubber is called cotton ball

Hi we have never heard of this process before using talcum powder! :)

before the 20th century there was no grain filler pase for sale, they used talcum powder to set in the grooves of the grain, until it filled them gradually, and the surface was glass like

Lol. Wrong. For a full grain finish you would typically apply about 200 to 300 coats, in two batches two weeks apart, for a half grain finish you would apply less than 100 coats over probably two days. Talc is pumice, you never use that to fill, French chalk was often used to burnish with acid in water with the palm of the hand after drying. Original grain filler was plaster of Paris and water dye / pigment, you would wet your wadding, dip it in the plaster, wet it again, then dip it in the dye / pigment powder and rub it in. You would remove the excess with hessian.

​@@SilverSpur1the rubber is made up from double skinned 'rabbit' wadding which is cotton based, and the wiper, which is close weave cotton as used for hotel or hospital sheets. A partially dried, used wadding pad is called a fad.

Hi, The Wax has been put straight onto the Stripped Pine with no Sanding Sealer. I hope this helps :)

Hi this would seal the wood but not give a waterproof finish. I hope this helps :)

Hi, if you do not use the liming brush to open the grain, then the liming paste will not stick in the grain and will not work. You can not cause a limed effect without opening the grain first.

@@priorypolishes Well that is not entirely true... I have seen lime wax used without using a wire brush and sure the effect was lessened, but I think in this and other cases, that is a good thing.. less is more!

@@rw9207 I suppose this depends on the type of finish you want. If you want to Lime wood correctly, you do need to open the grain but if you prefer a lessened effect, you could just use a white wood wax, rather than the liming wax.

Thank you for your comment, this has been done in the traditional way but using a few modern materials such as the Grain Filler to speed up the process :)

Wrong. This is a 100% amateur, totally incorrect way not to polish, this advice will ruin your item.

​@@tajnewellWhy didn't it ruin his item then...just asking.

Hi, this is a completely different finish as polyurethane will leave a thick finish that is difficult to repair if needed in the future. Polyurethane is also not a very eco-friendly finish. French polish is a more traditional finish that is smooth and highlights the grain beautifully. it is also easier to repair if needed and is more suitable on any antique pieces. I certainly would not use a polyurethane finish on any antique furniture or you will devalue it. Hope this helps :)

​@@priorypolishesp

Excellent - let's smother this rosewood in a plastic coating!

Lol you just ruined the piece polishing it totally wrong and embedding half a ton of oil into the shellac. I will give you a million quid to the charity of your choice if you can post a high res photo of the surface now and it has zero cracks 😂

Hi, for this we used Fiddes Supreme Wax in the colour 'Stripped Pine' : priorypolishes.co.uk/product/fiddes-supreme-wax-polish/?attribute_colours=Stripped+Pine I hope this helps :)

Hi, You may need a couple of tins for this. I would not mix anything into the grain filler but you can stain the door after it has been Grain filled. We do have grain Filler available here: priorypolishes.co.uk/product/rustins-grain-filler/ I hope this helps :)

@@priorypolishes Ok thanks for your reply, i just ordered 5 tins of Rustins grainfiller. Greets

@@krisgebruers8471 Thank you, once your order has been received we will get this processed straight away. Have a lovely week :)

@@priorypolishes Cheers ;)

@@priorypolishes hope you can help me cos think I got problems I took the stain off but not sure it’s left a varnish stain or the undercoat, I have tried wire wool paint remover sanding and not coming off much it’s grounded in the wood, can I put wood filler over it or stain, in end want it dark mahogany

Hi, apologies for the delay. This will depend on your room temperature but if your room is warm and dry you can usually add around a coat every 30 minutes to 1 hour. You will feel the polish start to get sticky if you are applying too quickly. Leave 24 hours between de-nibbing for best results. I hope this helps :)

When brushing, probably around 20 to 30 mins, with his dry coats in the video, about 5 mins. For rubbering, you should be able to do 3 to 5 overlapping coats one after the other, then wait ten mins, it's cumulative. Takes a few years to work out when to stop, thats why you never wear gloves, you need to feel the finish under the rubber.

Thank you for your lovely comment :)

Hi, You would probably have to use a Gilt Varnish for this, I would recommend: priorypolishes.co.uk/product/liberon-gilt-varnish/ I hope this helps :)

Thank you :)

We usually stain the wood after grain filling as this will stain the grain filler at the same time and we find it creates a more even colour, but you can stain the wood first if you preferred. I hope this helped :)

@@priorypolishes yes thanks for your reply, im planning on staining and grainfilling a mahogany guitar, applying a wiping varnish/poly over the top, ill stain the grain filler with the dye and also another stain after the grainfiller to enbolden the colour of the wood, thanks.

@@priorypolishesafter the wood grain then stain can you put top coat on polyurethane on, is that right ? Thanks

@@robertbuckley3480 Hi, yes there should be no problem using a polyurethane fnish over a grain-filled piece. I hope this helps :)

@@priorypolishes the grain filler wont go on would it if something is bedded in the wood would it ? It looks like light brown varnish, its off in parts but not fun removing it

If you cut off small sections and warm it between your fingers you will be able to sculpt/mould the gilt wax more easily. Hope this helps :)

Hi Thank you for your comment, so this does dry fairly solid but if you were to put pressure on with your nail you may mark it, we do also have other Gilding products available on our website: priorypolishes.co.uk/product-category/purpose/gilt-restoration/ I hope this helps :)

@@priorypolishes, thank you

Hi thank you for your comment, with the Gilt Varnish it usually sticks quite well, what are you using this on? When fully dry you can sometimes apply a wax finish on top such as Priory Polishes Light Tones wax: priorypolishes.co.uk/product/priory-polishes-finishing-bees-wax-furniture-polish-400-ml/ I hope this helps :)

Thank you :)

its Ziricote FYI, amazing grain and fairly soft too.

Lol. It's Brazilian rosewood

@@tajnewell Beautiful and a shame to use such wood for a table

Thank you, i'm glad you enjoyed this :)

Thank you :)

I have no idea what this method ( if a method at all ) but whilst linseed oil will darken a timber substrate, especially a light coloured one, it is not a substitute for a pigmented dye or stain. IMO the practice of applying oil to a surface then coating with shellac ( French polish ) is poor practice and why the need ? Absolutely no need

Hi, this would only happen if the Pine was exposed to direct sunlight over time, but the wax would offer some protection. I hope this helps :)

it turns yellow, as yellow as the smiley face you put there

Yes a good tip!

Hi! Thank you for your comment. We do have all these products available on our website priorypolishes.co.uk :)

Leather and rubber gloves are useless, solvent will soak into the leather and will break the rubber within minutes. You need chemical resistant latex nitrile gloves like Nitrex 440 etc. These are normally blue.

Hi, you are correct about the stripper in your previous comment, we always use a solvent based stripper as this is far more effective than water based. A stripping knife works perfectly with the stripper and as long as you use it correctly, it is very difficult to scratch the surface. This will also speed up the stripping time. Using plastic to strip with a solvent based stripper would not be recommended as this could melt the plastic and this is why we use a metal scraper. You can also use steel wire wool to strip but on Rosewood we use a fine grade as a harsh grade can darken the wood. Always wear gloves for safety. We do supply all these products on our website priorypolishes.co.uk :)

@@priorypolishes whilst I understand your point the use of plastic debit / credit cards work perfectly well when used to move the stripper and soften ed finish off the substrate and into a good clump of old newspaper. The technique is simple and swift thus not allowing the card to melt away. IMO there is always the danger of beginners abrading the surface with any metal scraper.

With metal exposed to solvents (new and old remanents thereof) and other unknown substances, there will likely be subtle chemical reactions and leaching of corrosive material deep into your precious wooden surface... Plastic is the way to go but used debit/credit cards??? They don't sell plastic spatulas ( spatulæ) in your hardware stores? I bought a set several years ago and they have proven to be extremely durable, and more importanly, very effectieve at removing old finish.

If you're a pro, then why the hell are you on these videos?

Purely out of interest to see what other folk say @@yeetnama9094