Відео

The threads are so small you have very little actually cutting into the concrete ..they should be triple the depth they are now at least it seems to me

And this is what you call click bait.

I have heard the Simpson Titen HD screw anchors can get around the code requirement of at least 7" embedment depth. Meaning I can use a 6" or 8" bolt to hold my 2x sill plate down. I have the ICC-ES report up but can't make sense of it. You said you specified these anchors for your builds. Do you have any advice on what is a code compliant length when using these bolts? Simpsons long bolt options are 6",8", and 12". I'd like to avoid having to buy 12" bolts if I can.

Wow. Embedded 7" into the concrete. We're 4" in Ontario.

Great video, you earned yourself a subscriber

I did see a video on the internet, where two full homes were built to see how well a house held up to tornato winds held up. The house built with convitional building codes blew apart. The one with extra reinforcement and metal strap connectors held up with some damage. But the house frame held.

hum, I think putting J and L bolts to concrete before it's dry is much more faster then. Drilling a hundred holds to put in anchor bolts is very tiring job. What you think?

This video makes absolutely no sense...how can a _straight_ _"screw-in"_ bolt have a better break-out capacity than a CAST-IN J bolt?

What about the life of the framing?

Seems like threaded rod to a macro-version of plumbers tape or 18 guage L bar would be cake to incorporate into a pour. I would hope the J was hooked on rebar or threaded cable in that pour. You will never have enough uplift for it to fail. I was skeptical of threaded cable until doing a tear out. Absolute nightmare to remove concrete reinforced with that shit.

You're onto something but honestly this sounds like a single family carpenter's nightmare, especially when it comes to having to remodel a roof addition into old walls with no double plates, but it looks good on paper and only on paper in my opinion as far as single family homes go. I wouldn't consider it on anything other than massive multifamily projects where the savings might be worth retraining crews and finding a framing foreman willing to deal with it all. Work just isn't that hard to find.. I'd consider multifamily only because it's generally not a candidate for an addition. Even then, it's somewhat intimidating with minimal forgiveness if needing to offset a truss or rafter due to a miscalculation somewhere along the lines. It sounds extremely risky for it's value. The best way to save $ is probably to use 6x6, 4x4 etc. for shorter span headers (not longer because they twist causing major problems). That saves on labor not having to measure, cut and assemble the multiple parts of conventional headers and produces less cut off waste, and the heavy nailing specs of conventional headers require a lot of nails.There would also be some R value loss opting for 6x6 headers. The L shaped corner you depicted is called a California corner or "Cali". It doesn't allow for half of a siding corner to be nailed to anything but plywood, though the American Plywood Assoc. has specs to resolve that issue (specs that probably are rarely followed in the field), you just have to contact them for the specs. Even after doing this 20 years, I still don't know what those specs are nor have ever heard of anyone speak of it. The U-corner you depicted wasn't installed correctly. A U-corner allows for proper siding corner installation (unless the corner material is a wider dimension than the stud material). It's also a stronger corner and I would be happier knowing a massive hip in a roof is over three instead of two studs. They're not that hard to insulate when installed where the cavity of the U-corner faces in (not facing the sheathing as depicted). It's rarely a problem where a king stud or something would prevent the U corner from being insulated but any framer worth their salt will insulate it before installing the king stud etc. However, the U-corner also sacrifices R-value by replacing a volume of insulation with an extra stud. Calis are suitable for interior partitions but might not always be the best option over a well placed ladder style partition that can often save a stud or often two and make use of scrap blocks that would have probably ended up in the dumpster.

Love this video much!!!! You are a good man 😊

Nice video, thanks man.

Thanks for the great video! Very informative!

how do you get signed off without having your jbolts in before pour?

epoxy all the way. if you are going to do it, do it right 🙂

Guys who use J bolts: you’re wrong! Guys who want to use screw in: you’re a genius!

Hey I have a question can you help me

"Promotional Video".

As a 30 year general contractor in the state of Florida. I demand these on my jobs. The videos you're showing with the washers on them aren't even code.

Interesting comments about Tornado protected homed

Smart fella

Thx for info

This is very informative. And you are an excellent communicator - I'm not an engineer and I was able to understand it! Thanks. And keep it coming!

Interesting you chose not to show the failure uplift pressures of all the fasteners.

this guy has no clue what he is talking about , seems like a waisted education to this expert , never in history has a j bolt been pulled out of the concrete the sill plate gives out and the wall blows away with the sill plate and anchors still securely bolted to the concrete still , and Jay if by now you are not aware of how to find that kind of information you might want to try some other trade, then to suggest other anchors well i had to laugh at you then

New Subscriber here - love the content! You touched upon a few major beliefs I have as well. 1) The "American Dream" concept - has been manipulated by the elite to own the "largest" house on the block, own as many toys as possible, to "keep up with the Jones's", and etc. 2) I've lived in 5 states - FL (7 yrs), TX (4 yrs), AZ (3 yrs), RI/CT (home area). FL, TX and AZ all would benefit from concrete homes (called "CBS" homes in FL; Concrete Block and Stucco). 3) The major problem is in the roof construction - typically they are simply wood framed trusses and rafters - and hurricanes/tornadoes can easily rip them off the hurricane ties attached to the concrete walls. 4) Roof construction should be changed for these homes - welded steel trusses/rafters that attach not only to the concrete walls but the ground below (in separate "footers"). 5) I like the consideration you brought to the "100 year flood" level. Personally, I don't think 1 foot above this level is suitable enough - maybe 3 feet minimum? Having a steel roof supported by steel trusses/rafters/etc would be costly esp if you're going to employ this to a "McMansion" style home - but may be cost effective if the average "American Dreamer" would understand your concept in "too much space" and keeping up with the Jones's.

Great video bro I watched ever min of it (Just great video editing top notch)

i just did stacked walls to get 1 wall higher for a lean to roof by accident. . If i add rafter ties or ceiling joists at least every 4 ft would this prevent the wall from hinging?

Look into how the weather is controlled & manipulated to destroy communities & life. Your government are now globalists with an 👿 agenda.

Good start! A few years ago I designed a tornado proof house, or close to it, using SCIPs and wrote a book about it.

Maybe some time working with a concrete crew would make an interesting video. Any rod buster could make those bolts work. They just need support from a lateral bar. Just hook them on the bar and tie them in. Post pour if necessary.

ua-cam.com/video/jxsSBHTFk3w/v-deo.html

Have we all just completely missed that all the pyramids are still standing? I think rethinking these insane man made storms we need to go back. In other words policies are going to have to change and I think as long as we can come up with contracts that leave the government (unconnected to any corporations (insert rim shot)..but no we need a massive change but I think the reason people still build these idiotic places is they serve their corporate masters. We have to remove ANYONE from government who isn't for the betterment of man kind. If your stupid houses wont stand up to storms and they are "built to code" THE CODE MUST CHANGE!

Aircrete is better

J/L bolts, just seem to wander, while the concrete sets, every once in a while, and come off of line. I guess I'm not a profession, but honestly, for my shed type structures I build, I've got 20 of them for the last 20 years, that I'm not looking to use any time soon.

Use all hip roof. The gable ends are weak points and hip roofs reduce wind lift. Look into Miami-Dade building codes for ideas resisting wind speeds.

@JthaEngineer Thanks for making this video! Your explanation about anchor bolts was fantastic, and the new way to tie your framing into the foundation was an interesting approach. I'll keep this in mind for my projects moving forward! Keep up the great work!

From what ive read, the industry moving away from J bolts has nothing to do with pull out strength. Its about improper wet set techniques causing an air gap between the bolt and the slab which water can get into. Technically J or L bolts are far superior, but practically they pose potential issues.

After a tornado destroyed part of our hometown back in the late 90's we built a home using icf construction back in 2000. Not only is the home wind/tornado resistant, but the R value of the walls make the home more comfortable and much easier/cheaper to heat and cool. Living in western TN having good R value is key as we truly have 4 season weather here with 100+degree summers while during the winters lows can dip into the low teens or even single digits. My utility bills average about the same as a modern stick-built home that is less than 1/2 the size of our icf home.

Is it possible to do a follow up video regarding ICF construction? I'm considering it for a future home build

I recently installed some thermax panels in my basement when doing the rim joist I found every L bolt had no washer or nut we get some strong winds in the northeast. They do now..

Planning on doing a little 4-500 ft2 bar in my back yard. I’m not in construction but automatically assumed I would have to use anchored bolts. Why does drilling into the concrete not compromise the integrity? Generally wondering, nice vid

1:29 your example shows it into the weakest part of precast concrete beam. That’s disingenuous as compared to most j bolt installations. Sub-Contractors can hardly read plans and don’t plan properly when they frame. It’s not just their fault. The contractors and builders chose the cheapest labor for so long there are no craftsman. I fundamentally disagree with the more expensive post pour options. People should just learn to be better. Just because a more expensive option exists doesn’t mean it’s actually better or faster.

What about failure of windows and doors ?

Very clear presentation, but some doubts about the conclusions.

A good builder would tuck the bolt under the rebar. Problem solved.

Common sense would dictate installing "J" bolts before pouring concrete, and using the proper installation and of length bolt would be best. Install with j under rebar. When you talk about failure are you talking about design limits? Tensile strength? Proper spacing using the correct number of bolts for design loads.

all the bolts shown do not meet code quoted as they 'must extend 7" into concrete or grouted cell of concrete masonry wall' , they are all obviously too short and 7" seems ludicrously onerous in the majority of domestic timber framing scenarios.

Ok, but which wet anchor do you recommend (when you can't drill, eg. not enough space) ?