Відео

That's great to hear! I truly appreciate you checking this video out.

@@alandavis1245 It's a blast!

I found a company called Bayson Motorsports. They have a listing on eBay and this link will take you to it. www.ebay.com/itm/393180694753

@@Ирина-т8с1э Обычно это приятная струйка. Но любой, кто стоял под водопадом в тот день, был бы смыт и о нем больше никто не слышал! 🌊

@sixgundave природа разбушевалась

@@johnkoch8005 I didn't trust myself getting the pearl right, I opted for the body shop. If it was any other color, long as it was 2-stage not 3 like these, I would've tackled it myself.

@@fabiotuzzi3724 It's all in that rear end gear reduction, really woke that car up 👍 I don't have an exhaust or exterior sound vid - yet. I have an exhaust midpipe modification to do first.

@sixgundave from your video inside engine sound very nice prob due to the H pipe. I only have the direct intake on mine for now, just trying to see what exhaust sound deeper, keeping in mind is a v6. So far direct intake gave me just some throttle response.

@@fabiotuzzi3724 I do recommend H-pipe over X-Pipe for instance. I've had both on this car; the X made much more raspy sound at high RPM, which I don't think is pleasant on anyone's ears; the H on the other hand gives it a great deeper tone with no raspiness. Some of that depth is also dictated by the size of the pipe

@sixgundave yeah I read about it even tho someone suggest to go with 2.5 I stead 3. Seems like 3 make loose power. I just hate the Y pipe and can't wait to get rid of it. You running dual, you kept the Cats? Because I was wondering how much power they filter. On other hand having no cats will make the car smelly and unpleasant...

@@fabiotuzzi3724 3 inch would be too big. Dual 2.5 like I have is actually too much, though it's most common size kits to find. I run cats, 1 without them you'll just smell like lawn tractor all day and everyone around you will dislike the stank too, 2 modern cats flow quite well anyway, stick with them.

@@lucidnightmare4398 I appreciate you checking out the vid! But - not much to go wrong with the caliper itself really, unless the pistons just aren't moving, or leaks at their seals, something like that. Are you sure it's caliper issues? Often times it's the slide pins I reference in this video (the bolts that let the caliper move independently from its bracket) that is often the first thing to cause troubles.

@@sixgundave what ended up happening was the pistons wouldnt decompress on the front right. Grinded the brake pads all the way down to the metal. Ill re-watch that part where you talked about that.

@@lucidnightmare4398 ah sounds rough.. perhaps a caliper on that side may be indeed in order. If those slide pins don't move freely, those can cause uneven brake pad wear. Good luck fixing! Good news is brake stuff in general isn't overly complicated to repair - hardest part, if replacing caliper, is getting the air bled out of the brake lines. Having a second person pump the pedal while the other does the bleeding at the caliper.

@@sixgundave yes! Im not the ideal person youd want working on your car but brakes and stuff are simple after the first couple times you do them. I have a friend thats helping me with the brake bleed. Thanks for all the quick responses and help!

What size are the bolts that move the rotor off? I put in my VIN number to the website which gave the specs including rotor size. Hopefully It’s correct!!

@@jasonf6182 Really appreciate you watching! My goal was to make it easy as possible when instructions aren't included (at least when I bought it). And, it really isn't bad to do.

@@sixgundave You definitely made it look easy. Thanks again

@@fabiotuzzi3724 the cat-back kit is Borla S-type. Pretty mellow just cruising but can get loud under load! I don't think those stock 3.8s can break 200hp at the crank until one starts digging into the internals or adds forced induction. Appreciate you checking it out!

@@Ирина-т8с1э It appears the last few days of August will be Sturgis Mustang Rally this year.

@@Barrett-tq7pq It depends on several factors. HDXs between models vary but still have the ability to have the brushes catch them. Doesn't ever cause damage to your guard but does risk several things on the wash machine - burning up motors, breaking gearboxes, pulling brush fingers out. $$$$ If I had a grill guard I would make a point to use touchless if I must use an automatic.

@@soundscheesy Gosh that's been a short while.. I think to get that angle I was perhaps more in 4th or 5th row. Enjoy your flight ✈️

@@DashcamDriversUS. yes thanks for asking ahead of time

@@efrenvalencia1600 I thought about that. Technically yes the remaining fasteners would hold it in place. However, I think you'd find it would not at all stay against the body up along that top-facing edge, especially toward the back. Not to mention at speed it would likely flap in the breeze pretty good.

@@KingofRoad_ info in description. You can use it 👍

@@sixgundave Thank you

It appears I won by the 60ft line

@@KingofRoad_ yes you may - Spearfish, South Dakota

@@sixgundave Thank you

@@wisewayss sure 👍

@@sixgundave Thank you!

I agree but that's South Dakota for ya.. no emissions testing here (yet)

Don't worry it's only a carcinogen if you're in California

@@RRBDDrivingSchool sure!

@@sixgundave thank you

@@stoptaxingme it was something straight out of a cartoon ha

Appreciate you checking it out

Really these machines aren't too high maintenance at all. This is set up at a car dealership, the bearings at each wheel and brush arm just need a few squirts of a marine-grade grease applied by a grease gun found at any auto parts store. My particular machine has a total of 24 bearings that take no more than 20-30 minutes to service, once or twice a month. Basically all one needs to do. Whether it's worth a service tech to come by and grease it is more up to you, but it's definitely quick and simple. I do keep spare hose and water valves around to minimize down time too, because yeah one can get the occasional leak sprung here and there.

I wish I would have shown the magnet install, but what I did was take one magnet to the local hardware store, and found some small brass screws and nuts (or nylon, some non-magnetic style) that would fit flush with the magnet hole, and only long enough to fasten with a nut on the backside of the skirt's mounting points. Some info is added in my description for this vid, and be a good idea to watch my follow-up video for this as well.

Yeah had heck of a time with those cans, but never used these two-part ones before this project. Whether the hardener mixed in or not, they laid down evenly and had fantastic gloss once cured

I appreciate you checking it out 👍

There's a few sellers on ebay, but I had purchased mine from a website called k&j magnetics. You need a total of 16 if I remember, but I would get at least 20 as they are brittle if they slam against a surface too hard.. Either in N42 or N52 strength.

Since you have manual I'd still recommend 3.73. Those wake it up quite a bit in itself. RPMs at 80mph will be 2700 with them, versus about 2300 stock, reducing your fuel mileage quite a bit. If you're still on stock rear end (7.5 inch), it also has open differential. You would also benefit much from putting in a Traction-Lok differential as well so you'd then have two wheels being driven instead of one.

@@sixgundave not too worried about mpgs it is a mustang after all lol and yea im putting the gears into an 8.8 rear end that im swapping in with a new driveshaft so got the lsd covered. Just didnt wanna buy 3.73s and regret it after alls said and done

@@Lord_McCrank Ah very good. Having an 8.8 also opens you up to a 3.90 ratio as well if you want to split the difference. I had 4.10 before, back when I did the trans swap, and discovered that my stock driveshaft wasn't balanced for those higher speeds it would need to turn. Bad vibrations and noise beyond 70mph. Swapped to a Ford Performance aluminum driveshaft for (if I remember) a 94-95 GT.

@@sixgundave would you say the 4.10 is a bit too much gear for the stock T5? i appreciate the responses btw trying to pick people’s brains on the forums usually ends up in “just buy a v8” lol

@@sixgundave yea thats the same driveshaft i plan on upgrading to

Back when I got that, there was a company called vapauto.com (doesn't exist anymore). It came with that 96-ish Windstar intake and a modified GT throttle body, and a bracket to relocate the coil pack. Could use stock throttle body with good results. The kinda bummer thing is one needs to modify the EGR system - you can use the stock valve itself, but need those years of Windstar's EGR tube to bolt it to (the part that joins the EGR valve to intake manifold), plus you'd have to cut the metal EGR tube that goes from the passenger exhaust manifold to EGR valve, and extend said tube with a piece of 5/8" I.D. high temp silicone tube. Hope that helps. Or, one could get block-off plates for EGR and delete the system completely, which would also require a tune.

@@sixgundave will you be at Sturgis mustang rally this year

@@chadkremer3050 Yeah I better go, I haven't missed a single one yet

@@sixgundave our first year was last year, I had so much fun, I just had the show pass , this year I want to do rodeo and autocross, I'm building a super stallion clone

Yeah race package you would need, it definitely worth the extra cost. Only thing is, the Sturgis drag strip may not be open as the previous folks who ran it chose not to renew their lease. Indefinitely shut down unless someone picks up the tab and opens the place back up. But all other race events will go on. Your build sounds pretty sweet

Yes it sees in town and highway just the same, all is great after about two years. Even though I have a small gap between thr moldings and the body as shown in this vid, there is no noise from any molding movement on bumps, nor wind noise/whistling at speed. All has been great with them. Still recommended as an alternative to drilling holes definitely 👌

@sixgundave thank you for getting back to me. It seems like your the only person who thought of this. I will definitely be trying this method and I think I'll try some small fender flare gasket to account for the gapping. Thanks again for posting this

@@Mhbultz Right on, appreciate you checking the vids out

I have part numbers listed below timestamps in description on this vid, if that was meant to be a question 🤔 ua-cam.com/video/8f_srWeXrJ0/v-deo.html

I think there is a red kit, but the one I found was for the previous body Impreza (2016 and older). I wonder if someone aftermarket or otherwise has the LEDs themselves in different colors one could swap out

I appreciate that! & thanks for checking out the vid.

This is at a car dealer in western South Dakota

@@sixgundave OK. Thank you!

@@sixgundave what town is it in?

Thanks a lot, really appreciate you checking it out. Had that thing looonnnng time

No rinse aid was used on this particular wash so I could show the properties of the pickup's ceramic coat in itself. But I do use either a Ryko or NCS-labeled drying agent I can't recall the name of yet ha

It's NCS-labeled Wax Luster that is used on this machine. I don't use any other conditioners beside that one, if I use it at all (some of my wash options have the rinse aid option disabled).

I appreciate you checking these out. Not often do I have time to post these vids but keep an eye out once in a while

Ha, by that time... 'twas toooo late

Excellent platform to mod, even if one doesn't mod the engine internals.

That's great news & really appreciate you checking the vid out & glad it was helpful!

Exactly the point I was making. As the technician of this machine since 2007, I can afford to demonstrate what happens anyway.

Thanks & appreciate you watching! Those are a factory 2016 Subaru Crosstrek wheel - they are the same specs as the stock Impreza wheels (if it came with 17s). They're a 17x7 wheel and would use a 205/50R17 tire size.

Thanks for the reply! I assume you’re on the stock suspension?

@@adambenjamin3055 Suspension is stock. Likely won't lower it - with the exception of IF I wind up moving to 18" wheels.