Smile Mountain Guides
Smile Mountain Guides
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AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Anchor Demo: V-Rig/ Joshua Tree Anchor System with Instructor Tether
Jeffrey Mascaro, AMGA SPI Provider, Certified Alpine, and Rock Guide, demonstrates one way of building an institutional anchor in single-pitch terrain using a static rope while also incorporating an instructor tether.
This system excels when building top roping anchors with natural features while keeping the anchor builder secure/ attached to the mountain during the process.
Переглядів: 330

Відео

Climbing and Culture in Peru's Cordillera Blanca
Переглядів 99Місяць тому
Climbing and culture in the Cordillera Blanca on Ishnica, Tocllaraju, Huarapasca, and Vallunaraju.
AMGA Advanced Alpine Guide Course & Aspirant Exam
Переглядів 10 тис.2 роки тому
A beta video for those interested in the processes of becoming an AMGA-certified alpine guide brought to you by two of Smile's team members, Mike O'Connor and Jeff Mascaro. A snapshot of the third of four programs in the alpine discipline,
Multi-Pitch Descent for Ice Climbing
Переглядів 63 тис.2 роки тому
Smile Mountain Guides shows the full process of descending off multi-pitch ice routes using abalakov’s. All information on this SMG account is free for your education but it is no substitute for in-person professional training. We offer this as well.
The WOW Coils
Переглядів 2,2 тис.2 роки тому
In the mountain environment our route, both the up and down, often, offers a variety of unique challenges we must be ready for. One of those challenges being, how to manage easier and oftentimes loose sections of the route. In our experience it’s common to see climbing parties implementing standard fifth class climbing techniques in and easier 3rd/4th class environment. With a little bit of a m...
Top Belay using a Petzl Reverso
Переглядів 12 тис.3 роки тому
A breakdown of the thoughts and process a leader takes when setting up a belay from the top of a climb. This video demonstrates proper techniques for using the Petzl Reverso. Many other plaquette styled devices have a similar set-up, however, refer to the device manual for specifics.
Ice Climbing Basic: The Tool & Swing
Переглядів 1,9 тис.3 роки тому
We’re doing a little mini series on ice and sharing some techniques. Nothing is ground breaking from these initial videos, which is exactly what we’re going for! The basics count 💯 and are used by everyone; from someone just starting in this sport to high end climbers with years of experience. We’ll be starting with the tool, how it rotates around the hand, how this can impact the swing, and th...
Ellingwood Ledges, The Crestones
Переглядів 5424 роки тому
Ellingwood Ledges, The Crestones
Mechanical Advantage and Hauling Systems by Smile Mountain Guides
Переглядів 8 тис.4 роки тому
Mechanical Advantage and Hauling Systems by Smile Mountain Guides
Series 4: Releasing A Loaded Device, Two Ropes
Переглядів 4874 роки тому
Series 4: Releasing A Loaded Device, Two Ropes
Series 2: Rope Coiling Techniques and Options
Переглядів 6864 роки тому
Series 2: Rope Coiling Techniques and Options
Pingora Northeast Face
Переглядів 2 тис.4 роки тому
Pingora Northeast Face
Going In Direct, Sport Climbing
Переглядів 3724 роки тому
Going In Direct, Sport Climbing
Leading & Falling on Lead
Переглядів 2,3 тис.4 роки тому
Leading & Falling on Lead
Lead Belaying and Catching a Fall in Climbing
Переглядів 1,5 тис.4 роки тому
Lead Belaying and Catching a Fall in Climbing
Series 2: Managing Fifth Class Climbing Terrain
Переглядів 9654 роки тому
Series 2: Managing Fifth Class Climbing Terrain
(ASL Version) Descent Options for Alpine, Third and Forth Class Terrain
Переглядів 8854 роки тому
(ASL Version) Descent Options for Alpine, Third and Forth Class Terrain
Descent Options in Alpine, Third, & Fourth Class Climbing Terrain
Переглядів 37 тис.4 роки тому
Descent Options in Alpine, Third, & Fourth Class Climbing Terrain
Ishinca 5530m, Cordillera Blanca, Peru - Smile Mountain Guides
Переглядів 2064 роки тому
Ishinca 5530m, Cordillera Blanca, Peru - Smile Mountain Guides
Alpine Climbing Transitions Using the Rope as an Anchor - Smile Mountain Guides
Переглядів 6 тис.4 роки тому
Alpine Climbing Transitions Using the Rope as an Anchor - Smile Mountain Guides
Security Progression and Anchors for Alpine Climbing
Переглядів 65 тис.4 роки тому
Security Progression and Anchors for Alpine Climbing
Dragon Tail Couloir, RMNP - Smile Mountain Guides
Переглядів 2,1 тис.4 роки тому
Dragon Tail Couloir, RMNP - Smile Mountain Guides
Climbing Colorado’s First Flatiron- Smile Mountain Guides
Переглядів 2 тис.4 роки тому
Climbing Colorado’s First Flatiron- Smile Mountain Guides

КОМЕНТАРІ

  • @robertito_dobbs
    @robertito_dobbs 13 годин тому

    Are you using a beal jammy as a tether or is that some other kind of sewn runner?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 8 годин тому

      This is an Edelrid aramid fiber cord with a technora core and a nylon sheath. The gen1 sling has been discontinued and is now produced with a Dyneema core instead.

  • @matthewculpepper5261
    @matthewculpepper5261 15 днів тому

    What hear some people saying here is that less knowledge is better. Smart.

  • @klgjan1
    @klgjan1 15 днів тому

    I watched a quarter of this and went “wait I know this guy.” You guided me in Ouray for an intro to ice climbing this year. Thanks for the great instruction then and now online!

  • @joshb693
    @joshb693 Місяць тому

    This is an outstanding video, thank you for sharing! The little bowline overhand tip is top notch too.

  • @tc_wat
    @tc_wat Місяць тому

    Great video! Thanks for taking the time to show a nice thorough example of the v-rig.

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Місяць тому

      Thank you, we are glad you appreciated this video! Hope it helps

  • @climbjay
    @climbjay 2 місяці тому

    Perfect technique

  • @Rohan7ish
    @Rohan7ish 3 місяці тому

    Hi there, Thanks for your wonderful technical knowledge. But what I need know about and what I observed are your gloves. Hi, I am Rohan from India. I go to Himalaya every year and each time I struggle with my gloves which never help with the technical work what we do like holding and using an ice axe, some kind of rope work, clipping n unclipping carabiners, zoomar handling and also to deal with the cold temperature with goes from sub 0 to -10 around at 6800 mtrs. the reason is I have very thick and fatty gloves. some times it is very difficult to reattach the crampons when they come off with the thick gloves. please can you help with the model names you are using for mountaineering and ice climbing? Or you can send the link where I can get it online. I'll be very grateful if you recommend a pair of gloves. Thank you.

  • @roseyemelyanova8182
    @roseyemelyanova8182 3 місяці тому

    The music is not it haha

  • @Kawsusstory
    @Kawsusstory 4 місяці тому

    Was he lowering on a munter?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 4 місяці тому

      At around minute 6, they are lowering with a redirect plate. Thanks!

  • @GregSidberry
    @GregSidberry 5 місяців тому

    Good beta

  • @moiacolucci
    @moiacolucci 6 місяців тому

    Great video and thank you! Where was this filmed? Looks like a great spot!

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 6 місяців тому

      Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video! This was filmed in Eldorado Canyon State Park

  • @eragon6946
    @eragon6946 Рік тому

    Is there a chance the rope could be damage due to the sharp corner of ice where the two ice screws meet inside the ice wall?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      Good question, in our experience we’ve not heard of any accidents related to this, and also do not think it would be of concern.

  • @CanadianDutchman
    @CanadianDutchman Рік тому

    Great video!! 🦫🦫

  • @viniciusmaltauro
    @viniciusmaltauro Рік тому

    Ohhh the Petzl Gullyes, they have such a hard time pounding pickets with their plastic head!🥲

    • @Ryan_hey
      @Ryan_hey Місяць тому

      The Petzl Gully has a steel head.

  • @gabrielallen3211
    @gabrielallen3211 Рік тому

    One of the best routesI've ever climbed in the alpine! Looks like y'all had a great day

  • @xchinvanderlinden
    @xchinvanderlinden Рік тому

    8:1

  • @nikcezar2445
    @nikcezar2445 Рік тому

    good to know ima learn this

  • @keithclimate
    @keithclimate Рік тому

    Why is this shot from so far away?

  • @pat13487
    @pat13487 Рік тому

    Easy and amazing lecture

  • @KevinShon
    @KevinShon Рік тому

    Bravo, Jeff and Mike!

  • @PMA
    @PMA Рік тому

    That is such a great explanation. I was looking for something like for my audience. I will defenetively link your video in mine.

  • @yavuzkaya2146
    @yavuzkaya2146 Рік тому

    First of all, thank you for the videos. but I have a request from you. It would be better if you take the videos a little closer and use the microphone so that your voice can be heard better. Thank you.

  • @Dani_Escalada
    @Dani_Escalada Рік тому

    First tine here, Loved the sign language!! and channel name! thank you for the content!

  • @maxwellcross2473
    @maxwellcross2473 Рік тому

    I was just telling someone during one of our self rescue courses how you figured out some amazing flashy one handed belay escape haha Sorry to say I can't recall the details of how you did it but I remember you showing me at Safe Harbor.

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      Haha, nice, thanks Max- it was a one carabiner belay escape, see if you can figure it out, plus you still get a ground anchor!

  • @maxwellcross2473
    @maxwellcross2473 Рік тому

    Love using your vids for season review and prep. Miss climbing with you bro! Hope you guys well. Will hit you up next chance I can when I'm out west, would love it catch up.

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      Any time brotha, glad to hear you’re still out teaching- keep it up!

  • @tamexaz
    @tamexaz Рік тому

    what is the name of knot with 6-7 daisy

  • @joshua4625
    @joshua4625 Рік тому

    The way you seamlessly never let go of the brake hand is awesome. Tiny detail, huge consequences.

  • @HOLLBIE
    @HOLLBIE Рік тому

    Is there a video or book where they cover this type of "protection" techniques for Class 3-4 but for pople that are doing this scrambles alone?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      I’m not sure, but I haven’t heard of a book on these topics

    • @HOLLBIE
      @HOLLBIE Рік тому

      @@smilemountainguides Ok, ill keep on searching thank you for the reply.

  • @vlaaady
    @vlaaady Рік тому

    Super helpful! I especially liked the idea of progression between risk and protection. This relates to many situations in our life!

  • @sablinger
    @sablinger Рік тому

    Hmmm, with no pulleys used, these are only redirects as far as i know physics... I rebuild the "5:1" system that you showed to haul a 12kg Kettlebell at home and scaled it. had to give it around 5 kg of force. So, my question is: is there any mechanical advantage at all with all the friction? Cause it should be a lot easier to haul if it was 5:1, right?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      Thanks for the questions, hopefully we can add some clarity. The video do accurately show the system and their theoretical mechanical advantage (TMA) which was not expressly shared in the video. All this means is that we are not taking into account of friction in the system and the loss associated with the friction. As for your pulley comment, it's not very clear what your asking for us, however, pulleys would indeed increase the efficiency of the system. Pulley are a form of redirect just more efficient than carabiners. Hopefully this helps and thanks for asking!

  • @Summitic
    @Summitic Рік тому

    You answered one of my most epic questions when you did that last solo descent and retrieved the rope.. I often find myself on my own in the middle of nowhere and this technique will definitely be useful to overcome terrain challenges especially when I hike off trails.

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      Hopefully you’ve found it useful on the trails thanks for sharing on here!

    • @Summitic
      @Summitic Рік тому

      @Smile Mountain Guides I haven't had the chance to practice it in real life. I just practised with rope at home. I hope to use it in the future on my Solo hiking adventures in the swiss alps.

  • @thomaswhite518
    @thomaswhite518 2 роки тому

    Thanks

  • @TileStonePro
    @TileStonePro 2 роки тому

    Terrible sound and too far from camera. Needs to be redone.

  • @Amangions
    @Amangions 2 роки тому

    Everything is great, thank you for the video! It seems that you have a big angel between anchor legs on the tree, maybe better to use the basket method or smth like that.

  • @TR-nw8hz
    @TR-nw8hz 2 роки тому

    Y'all must be from the front range. How can I tell?

  • @timladinek4652
    @timladinek4652 2 роки тому

    We do it totally different here, but still cool video

  • @yungthunder2681
    @yungthunder2681 2 роки тому

    this is so unnecessary. Wasting so much time with ropes and bullshit gear on terrain you could have just scrambled down

    • @SammGraemeMartin
      @SammGraemeMartin 2 роки тому

      It's an educational video. It was probably much easier to film and instruct on a lower grade. Maybe you meant to watch Free Solo?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      @@SammGraemeMartin thanks for this, indeed it is easier to show these techniques on easier terrain. In that same light it’s easier to teach as well. The way we provide security is still the same it more consequential terrain where one could fall

    • @neild7971
      @neild7971 Рік тому

      😄

  • @danielkosiorek3163
    @danielkosiorek3163 2 роки тому

    Hi, great video! I was curious on what you were using at the anchor as a uni-directional pulley. I typically use a prusic and a tending pulley, because I am too cheap to get a micro traction or similar device. do you have a better solution to capturing rope as you haul/assist? Thanks,

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      Thank you, in this video we're using a Kong Gi-Gi, a common belay device we use when belaying from the top. We're using this as a common climbing set-up and a situation climbers may find themselves in. Your solution is one of the more efficient if trying to keep the price down, a simple carabiner redirect offer low friction however the micro, specifically the pulley feature, would be our go to if we are looking for maximize efficiency. Hope that helps!

  • @tahashirazi2481
    @tahashirazi2481 2 роки тому

    👌

  • @hogwart7908
    @hogwart7908 2 роки тому

    you explained a lot of things, this is helpful, thank you man

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 2 роки тому

      Glad it was helpful thanks for sharing a comment on here 💜

  • @Zepla
    @Zepla 2 роки тому

    wow thanks this was really helpful!

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 2 роки тому

      Awesome, glad it helped. Have an answer to the quiz at the end? Happy to help if it was a bit hard to see! Best

    • @Zepla
      @Zepla 2 роки тому

      @@smilemountainguides oh i missed that completely. hmmmm... im new to this so ill just give it my best shot lol. one on your hand, one on the other side of the grey carabiner, and then one on the other side of the blue carabiner plus another from that other bend in the masterpoint. then past the prussick i would add the one pulling directly. 5:1? might not be right but i tried lol

  • @balzacT99
    @balzacT99 2 роки тому

    safe to glissade with crampons on in fresh powder?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 2 роки тому

      There can be a time and place for glissading with crampons, fresh and deep snow being top of mind but it still a caution to do so since snagging them can result in some unwanted flips. Still best without in most cases

  • @booger5514
    @booger5514 2 роки тому

    Really solid explanation of hauling systems. Thanks!

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 2 роки тому

      Thanks for the comment and we're glad you enjoyed the video. All the best

  • @hulio8281
    @hulio8281 2 роки тому

    I cant understand why are you using the Mammut alpine smart belay on the wrong way. There`s any reason?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 2 роки тому

      Thanks for the question, makes descending easier since the plate blocks rope movement in the other direction. Hope that helps!

  • @reed8364
    @reed8364 2 роки тому

    💘 Promo-SM!!

  • @Needafollower
    @Needafollower 2 роки тому

    This is a really helpful video! Cheers 👍🏽

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 2 роки тому

      Glad you enjoyed the content and it was insightful. Thanks for giving it a shoutout!

  • @Zacharaelj
    @Zacharaelj 2 роки тому

    As an European, these techniques seem batshit insane. The are overly complicated and much beter, more efficient systems exist.

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides 2 роки тому

      Thanks for sharing would love to get some deeper thoughts on what seems insane. Most of these skills are common in guiding to protect the descent when a rappel is either less possible or for when the team can be protected quickly with other systems. All the best

    • @Zacharaelj
      @Zacharaelj 2 роки тому

      Thanks for responding. I got no comments on the first three minutes. But for the rest, although possible techniques, I struggle to see me use them. And I do understand they are more normal in overseas guiding, you don't see them in Europe generally. Personally, I would prefer a munter in these type of situations. Also I would never use that "canyoning" hitch there on that terrain. To recap, I wouldn't say that these techniques are unsafe. However they seem long/complicated for the terrain and here in Europe, people would look at you and scratch their head if you were to break out these techniques as a first resort.

    • @gdoldays9964
      @gdoldays9964 Рік тому

      No matter how safe & useful your techniques are, there will always be the "Climbing Police"...a group of people who always think their methods are best or your method is wrong. Then feel the need to force their opinion on everyone. This is only thing I find annoying about mountaineering... Keep up the video's please, I find them really useful 👌🏼

  • @JK-ep9bz
    @JK-ep9bz 2 роки тому

    What belay device is that?

  • @dan_stef
    @dan_stef 2 роки тому

    to be safe, the heaviest climber descendes first, while still being secured by the quad

  • @SivaSiva-jh1yw
    @SivaSiva-jh1yw 2 роки тому

    Aren't you scared that the rope is going to freeze inside the v thread and you won't be able to pull it out?

    • @smilemountainguides
      @smilemountainguides Рік тому

      Not really, and the second person can test the likelihood of the rope freezing by making sure it did not freeze by the time the first person makes in down. In about 90% of situations we'll use this "naked thread" since were not concern with the rope freezing. In specific situations, we will leave cord and rappel off the cord to prevent freezing.