Відео

Sounds like you and I treat our vans the same by pushing the offloading limits. For starters, the rally strut is adjustable, just like your other struts. The that benefit is obvious, as you know. In terms of performance change after I upgraded, I immediately noticed the improved dampening and responsiveness, meaning the vans front end takes bigger hits at any speed and stays grounded and smooth. The stock struts were packing out and the responsiveness basically dies when off road. I would not but they for highway driving. I bought them for off-road. Lastly, they are supposed to be a 100k+ mile strut, so you can do the math there :)

@@crowdtasticThanks for the information. Did you install them yourself?

@@TonyKoji I did not BUT that's only because I had to swap out the brackets of the secondary shocks, as the design changed to make room for the rally struts. Otherwise I would have.

glad it helped.

Yes, I added a custom cut marine grade plywood plate to mount to. I’ll shoot you a photo.

I have not and dont plan to. I have not found the need.

I’d say the adjustable secondary shocks are near a 100% improvement. The ability to adjust to ride type based on weight of vehicle and terrain has been a game changer. Hence why I invested further in the rally strut.

Thanks!

Hard to say because I swapped out from stock after 100 miles. I will say that I maintain a 15-16mpg average with my current set-up - see recent video with suspension.

From the headrest of the bench seat to the end of bed frame, about 4in. I did not move back from stock because it was a cargo van and there was no stock. That said, it’s pushed back from what would be stock because I wanted room to swivel front seats and have multiple people sit at table without being cramped. Also, it’s an area needed for changing, putting ski boots on etc.

Haha. No kidding man. Spooky.

Right on. You will be very pleased.

Glad you get some value. Im not a UA-camr but I spent too much damn time planning stuff out I felt obligated to share.

Exactly. It takes experience with the 4.3 kit to start to feel how bad the stock struts are. Congrats on the new kit.

No. I have yet to meet someone who has cracked that code. Once I got used to it I began to appreciate how it protects the battery... especially as the battery ages. I just replaced my stock starter battery for the first time.

i tried to figure that out. With an amp and the speakers it was going to use too much house battery. We us a JBL and works great. Off topic. I see you live in the snow. I have not had my van in the snow yet. Have you had to use chains on you van or do the bigger all terrain tires get it done? I have KOA tires. Thanks for the info @@crowdtastic

RB Components. I like it because it has no branding or other features some people seem to want but I don't. Clean low profile.

Thx man. All window covers are from RB components. They were not too expensive, good magnetic application, and really well insulated for how well they pack down. As for the adage kit install, I hear ya. I was nervous too because it's an expensive thing to screw up. After doing it one, id will do it again... and am very convinced its the strongest kit out there in terms of frame structure. I wish I had a garage to do it in though.

thx for the excellent service during and years after install.

Not sure what you mean. Are to asking about pricing? I think it’s $5k which is pretty expensive BUT it lasts the life of the vehicle and is the only think on the market that allows you to make seating adjustments and tie gear down AND most importantly, is safe in a vehicle crash incident.

@@crowdtastic exactly what I mean, how much?I was rushing with my response earlier. Sorry about that. The bench takes up a lot of space, but still have a kid that will ride along. The other two are now drivers, but tend to tag along… sometimes. I have a 2021 Crew, but would like to address/decide before I do anything else. Great videos!

Sounds like you and I have a similar want/need out of a van. I’m thoroughly insulated with havelock wool and the adwag panels. Not a fan of cooking or going to the bathroom where I sleep, and want to haul gear etc. Being able to tie down or anchor to the floor is very helpful, and I don’t have that option because I have no track on the floor. I did preserve the stock D-rings and have them mounted into my marine grade plywood floor but they are not is convenient places and I have several covered up with gear boxes. More than anything, I with I could move my passenger bench seat up and down the the floor. The adwag kit adds so much strength to the internal framing of the van. I think most people just start screwing shit in which is risky in terms of long term rust and lack of strength.

Regarding flares, I’m 6ft and don’t want to sleep sideways. More importantly, I think the least amount of cutting the better. Those flares can be ripped out easily. Not great security and just another thing to leak.

Your experience and willingness to share is priceless. Thanks!

I only have one (6 years old) so the three of us fit perfectly in the MOAB bed. If I had another or when he’s bigger I’ll add a monk bed.

awesome thanks! @@crowdtastic

Thx. I do have a portable shower (no heated) I use off the back in warmer months. Its key for long trips etc.

@@crowdtasticnice! I like the idea of modular items that can be removed or replaced without tearing it out of the build. Has the sprinter been good for you mechanically?

@@NinerFan949 the sprinter has been a beast. Very reliable. I do the oil service and fuel/air filter myself. Had it in the shop for a couple recalls and the full vehicle reports I get say it’s in excellent shape.

I built my own cover for my 1500x out of some insulation material, similar to a soft cooler. I used it for a month and threw it away. I found that these batteries are so good and heating up or cooler down fast on their own, a cover prevents that from happening. With the cover, my batter would get just as cold overnight and take 3x as long to heat up. I found they perform best with no cover. I rarely pull the battery out. If it super cold and I dont plan to drive it for a few days, I turn the spar heater on.

Thanks for the response! Where did you find your rear wire covers by the back door?

stock mercedes part. lots of people just toss them. @@user-sk9my3mt5k

I have a 100w solar that trickle charges the goal zero. On sunny days, it tops off the battery by end of each day. In the winter I use the alternator connection more often. The heater works too well and pulls such little energy, I doubt that will be an issue for you. My fridge on hot summer days is what hits my battery the hardest. I have a dometic 35... but hot summer days also have lots of sun so it's not an issue.

Prime Designs no-drill ladder. It's held up great. I put paint protection film on van before installing the ladder.

yes. before. they are bolted through the frame.

I used the HPP to power the fuse box which powers everything (auxiallry) hardwired in the van. I then used the other outputs on the GZ to power fridge, laptop etc.

Its a 144

I too have a 144 crew. Basically same setup

Great question. I originally powered by the GZ but switched back to van battery. The factory head unit will always shut off system regardless. Only way to bypass is to install an auxiliary or secondary stereo which goes against my minimalistic build philosophy. The GZ will power amp sub and all 6 speakers without issue, if you try that.

Ok. So when you wired it up the head unit front speakers stayed with the stock hook up. The amp sub and rear speakers are on aux power? I run my music all day. Just wondering if I should get another battery or if I can run that equipment from the GZ or what ever. Might have to be trial and error with some switches. Thanks

@@chrismharthart if you run music all day while parked, you should to a 100% auxiliary system to eliminate the auto shutoff and drain on van battery. The GZ 1500X will power a big system all day, easy. I have a nice system for high quality sounds when driving and limited time when parked. Otherwise, I pull out the JBL Bluetooth speaker.

Nothing to break in. It’s a solid design and is holding up as if it’s brand new. I see other beds on the market bending and flexing, loosening up and creaking. This bed is sold. Best on the market.

Nope. Just the adjustable shocks. No lift on mine.

I could not be happier with the electrical system. It’s low profile, maintainable, safe, and reliable. As for the bed, yes, you can easily raise to put a dirt bike below.

what boxes? do you mean the wheel well cubbys?

@@crowdtastic yes

nope.

@@crowdtastic how are you making the camera go from side to side as you're riding?

@@kennethlightfoot7392 Rhino swivel mount and go-pro

@@crowdtastic looks Great!

@@crowdtastic great effect!!!

RB Components. They are excellent.

Hey. I have no issues with the Havelock smelling . In fact, my friend owns a premium uplifting business and thats all he recommends, hence why I used it. I used kilmat for sound deadening and used a lot of it. I put a nice audio sound system in the van so I wanted to reduce rattle along with any road noise.

Scopema from agile off-road. Wish I got the alpine mechanisms ones.

rockymounts

I have never regretted it. Matches great and saved me a bunch of time/money. Ive also seen some failed headliner wraps.

Drivers side rear wheel well cubby, near espar heater and stereo amp.

i use this app without issue, but not over wifi, over bluetooth.

👊

Not sure what you are asking here. My Goal Zero powers my heater. Heather has install instructions that come with it.

@@crowdtastic I am wondering how you electrically connect your heater to your goal zero x. I have tried using a fuse box to the high power anderson port. I can't get sufficient power draw to start the heater.

@@danieltchen6722 My GZ 1500X runs directly to my Blue Sea Systems fuse block. My 12v espar heater pulls its power from that fuse block, along with all my lights, fridge etc. I have no issues. I used freedommango's GZ integration kit to connect everything. It works flawlessly.

Thx. I wanted the aux heater to kick out in the center and rear of the van for two reasons. 1- there is no heat source in the rear from factory. 2- I wanted to blow hot air in the rear on the floor to keep things dry during winter months as skis are in /out a lot. Additionally, its a much cleaner install and the compartment under passenger seat is valuable storage for other things.

Im in UT, so the air is dry but annual temp swings from -5f to 105f. The summer is manageable with window shades and one maxair fan. Fridge works perfectly to keep stuff cold and solar charge is very strong in summer months. I use the awing a lot to keep shade on the van. An AC unit would be nice BUT i tend to seek high elevations so its a waste of power for me to add one.

@@crowdtastic thanks. We lived in CO and recently moved to ME. Which windows did you choose? I am looking at a couple different options and not sure I have seen the configuration you have. Finally, what roof top gear rack did you go with?

@@m00t123 CR Lawrence windows. Love the screen and ability to open with no rain coming in. RB components low profile bars up top.