![David's Ships](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- 223
- 361 800
David's Ships
South Africa
Приєднався 16 вер 2013
1:350 scale battleships and battlecruisers that I have built over several years.
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 64 - Tripod Mask Trunking
Trunking is installed on the rear legs of the tripod mast.
Plastic Kit: Trumpeter 05302
www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05302-hms-hood--104320
Super Detail Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350098
www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350098-hms-hood-detail-parts--276443
Super Detail Upgrade Kit Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350099
www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350099-hms-hood-super-upgrade-set-must-be-used-with-fh350098--953070
Deck: Pontos 35020WD1
www.scalemates.com/kits/pontos-model-35020wd1-hms-hood-wooden-deck-set--533842
HMS Hood Association: Trumpeter 05302 Basic Review Plus Improvement Suggestions
www.hmshood.org.uk/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/trumpeter350.htm
Plastic Kit: Trumpeter 05302
www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05302-hms-hood--104320
Super Detail Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350098
www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350098-hms-hood-detail-parts--276443
Super Detail Upgrade Kit Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350099
www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350099-hms-hood-super-upgrade-set-must-be-used-with-fh350098--953070
Deck: Pontos 35020WD1
www.scalemates.com/kits/pontos-model-35020wd1-hms-hood-wooden-deck-set--533842
HMS Hood Association: Trumpeter 05302 Basic Review Plus Improvement Suggestions
www.hmshood.org.uk/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/trumpeter350.htm
Переглядів: 362
Відео
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 63 - Forward ADP Details
Переглядів 617День тому
The Photo-etch details are installed on the forward ADP. Plastic Kit: Trumpeter 05302 www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05302-hms-hood 104320 Super Detail Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350098 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350098-hms-hood-detail-parts 276443 Super Detail Upgrade Kit Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350099 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350099-hms-hood-super-upgrade-set-must-be...
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 62 - ALOs and ADOs
Переглядів 46714 днів тому
The photo-etch Air Lookout (ALO) and Air Defense Officer (ADO) positions are constructed. Plastic Kit: Trumpeter 05302 www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05302-hms-hood 104320 Super Detail Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350098 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350098-hms-hood-detail-parts 276443 Super Detail Upgrade Kit Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350099 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350099-h...
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 61 - ADP Treadplates
Переглядів 51821 день тому
The photo-etch treadplates are modified and installed. Ladders to the Compass Platform and Torpedo Control Position are also installed. Plastic Kit: Trumpeter 05302 www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05302-hms-hood 104320 Super Detail Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350098 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350098-hms-hood-detail-parts 276443 Super Detail Upgrade Kit Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350099 ww...
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 60 - Ladders and Handrails
Переглядів 563Місяць тому
Ladders and handrails are installed on the lower levels of the forward superstructure. Plastic Kit: Trumpeter 05302 www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05302-hms-hood 104320 Super Detail Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350098 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350098-hms-hood-detail-parts 276443 Super Detail Upgrade Kit Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350099 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350099-hms-...
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 59 - Stanchions
Переглядів 819Місяць тому
The plastic stanchions molded into the splinter shield are removed and replaced with photo-etch. Plastic Kit: Trumpeter 05302 www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05302-hms-hood 104320 Super Detail Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350098 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh350098-hms-hood-detail-parts 276443 Super Detail Upgrade Kit Upgrade Kit: FlyHawk FH350099 www.scalemates.com/kits/flyhawk-model-fh3...
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 58 - Signal Lockers
Переглядів 843Місяць тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 58 - Signal Lockers
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 57 - HACS Mk III* Shelters
Переглядів 745Місяць тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 57 - HACS Mk III* Shelters
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 56 - Installation of the Lower Forward Superstructure
Переглядів 881Місяць тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 56 - Installation of the Lower Forward Superstructure
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 55 - Various Corrections
Переглядів 8762 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 55 - Various Corrections
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 54 - Navigation Lights
Переглядів 5952 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 54 - Navigation Lights
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 53 - Upper Air Defense Platform
Переглядів 3982 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 53 - Upper Air Defense Platform
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 52 - Forward Air Defense Platform
Переглядів 6302 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 52 - Forward Air Defense Platform
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 51 - Admiral's Chart House
Переглядів 4083 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 51 - Admiral's Chart House
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 50 - Admiral's Bridge Screens
Переглядів 5653 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 50 - Admiral's Bridge Screens
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 48 - Starfish Platform Modifications
Переглядів 7203 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 48 - Starfish Platform Modifications
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 47 - Spotting Top Windows
Переглядів 7043 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 47 - Spotting Top Windows
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 46 - Spotting Top Platform
Переглядів 7394 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 46 - Spotting Top Platform
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 45 - Forward Air Defense Platform Wind Baffles
Переглядів 8844 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 45 - Forward Air Defense Platform Wind Baffles
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 44 - Admiral's Bridge & Compass Platform
Переглядів 6254 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 44 - Admiral's Bridge & Compass Platform
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 43 - Forebridge & Torpedo Control Platform
Переглядів 6124 місяці тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 43 - Forebridge & Torpedo Control Platform
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 42 - Torpedo Control Position
Переглядів 6415 місяців тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 42 - Torpedo Control Position
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 41 - Micro Master Components
Переглядів 9065 місяців тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 41 - Micro Master Components
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 40 - Forebridge & Torpedo Control Platform Modifications
Переглядів 6455 місяців тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 40 - Forebridge & Torpedo Control Platform Modifications
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 39 - Admiral's Bridge Modifications
Переглядів 9695 місяців тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 39 - Admiral's Bridge Modifications
1:350 USS Ticonderoga: Kit Introduction
Переглядів 1,8 тис.6 місяців тому
1:350 USS Ticonderoga: Kit Introduction
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 38 - Upper and Central Forward Superstructure Plastic Components
Переглядів 6916 місяців тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 38 - Upper and Central Forward Superstructure Plastic Components
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 37 - Signal Lockers and Ladders
Переглядів 1,2 тис.6 місяців тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 37 - Signal Lockers and Ladders
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 36 - Installing the Conning Tower Platform onto the Admiral's Signal Deck
Переглядів 6146 місяців тому
1:350 HMS Hood: Part 36 - Installing the Conning Tower Platform onto the Admiral's Signal Deck
I would have loved to see a video on how you prepped and installed the wooden deck. I’m starting this phase of my build on the fore deck. From what I can tell, almost ALL the plastic from the kit gets removed in this section. I’m curious to know how you prepped the areas around the anchor chains. Did you remove all this plastic then install the Pontos pieces on top of the wooden deck? Specifically, I’m not sure how to deal with the long middle section where the chains rest. It looks like you cut out the wooden deck to let the plastic underneath protrude. The Pontos images of this area show only wooden deck in this section which implies that all the plastic should be removed.
In general I followed the same process in this video: ua-cam.com/video/7RnkKxx7huU/v-deo.html As you noticed, the main difference is that for the PoW most of the plastic is removed from the deck and replaced with resin and photo-etch. On my model the photo-etch strips for the anchor chains, the openings for the hawse pipes, and the base of capstans are all on top of the wooden deck. I have old, and not very good pictures, where you can see the deck after installation on the hull and before anything was installed on the deck. If you would like these pictures send me an email using my channel email address.
Do you clear coat the finished model?
Yes, first with an acrylic gloss varnish before weathering and finally with a matt varnish to seal in everything.
That must be nerve wracking.
At times small work like this can be frustrating. Especially when a part escapes the table!
Hi David, I am going to start this kit and I had some doubts about paints. May I ask you which paints you used to get this marvelous camo? thank you very much Ciao from Marco Milan, Italy
These are the paints: Light grey: 1 to 1 Tamiya XF-2 and XF-19 Dark grey: Tamiya XF-24 Deck: Tamiya XF-54 Lower hull: Humbrol enamel 101 (I mixed Tamiya paints to match the colour)
@@DavidsShips Ciao David, thank you for your prompt reply. I remember your hull video to get the colors i have to mix for it. It’s a real pity you did not post fore deck painting, but all the playlist is really full of hints and ideas. Thank you Marco
It is a pity. I started building the Roma kit before I started the channel. To paint the recognition markings I scanned in the painting guide, enlarged it, and printed it in the same scale as the model. I then placed it on the deck and used it to precisely mark the stripes. After painting the stripes I discovered that the stripes on the Trumpeter painting guide are not parallel! It looked really bad on the ship. It took a bit of tweaking on the model to get them straight. I think that is the only thing to look out for with the recognition markings.
Nicely done.
Any particular reason you had the extra parts from your Prince of Whales kit? I figure you would have used most of them for that build.
It was one of those kits with common frets for multiple ships in the class. Those components weren't needed for HMS Prince of Wales.
@@DavidsShips ah good to know. I have both duke of York and KGV in my stash so I should have some extra. Thanks!
My great grandfather Woodrow Wilson Thorn was a radio man on the Ticonderoga. He lived thew the war so here I am. Thanks Grandpa. I love you.
Just starting again. This build is a great guide for me. What airbrush are you using? I am using the Badger 350, but am finding it difficult to use and clean. I think I want to try a gravity fed airbrush. I looked as the Paasche site and am a bit confused. I know everything is a personal choice, but the choices made by someone who builds 1:350 scale ships holds more weight that someone who primes figures for me...
Nothing special, I think it is a local rebrand of a generic dual action gravity fed airbrush.
Astonishing.
Optivisor DA-5 (2.5x) are excellent
Thank you for the recommendation!
Damn that drill bit at 1:02 hurt, happened to too often so i always quadruple check. Do you know what you'll build next after Hood?
I will do a short build after HMS Hood, I have a Type VII C/41 submarine planned. After that I intend to build the USS Alabama.
Ah right, i think you mentioned the sub already sometime in the build.
I’m absolutely loving this series and look forward to each episode. As for magnification there are a lot of options out there, I’m sure you audience can help you, but for me, I wear glasses already so I make use of ones the click to my frames. I inherited them from my father who repaired watches. They are excellent, unobtrusive and come in a variety of magnifications. Keep up the excellent work! I’m enjoying this whole process and have been learning a lot for my own model building. Cheers!
I am glad you are enjoying the series!
Me bruh
Little circles…Ejector pin marks. It’s how the push the parts out of the molds once injected and cooled…
I know this video is 3 yrs old, but …when you discuss rigging, I often use very lightweight monofilament nylon line. 2lb rated fishing line for example. You can attach it with CA glue. You only need to get it somewhat taut, as you can come back later with a heat source and it will shrink and tighten right up. I have used that method for all sorts of rigging, long before EZ line was around. EZ line is nice and much more forgiving, but there are times when monofilament line works better. Cheers.
Thanks for the suggestion! There certainly are times when having rigging that doesn't stretch is useful. It makes me think back to when I re-rigged the Nagato model.
@@DavidsShips You’re very welcome. I really enjoy your videos - right to the point, well lit, clear and concise english, excellent subject matter… Well done !
Excellent work as usual, I was wondering, have you ever considered using uv curing glue?
I have considered using it, I've even looked for it in my local hobby shop, but they didn't have any. If I do come across some I will buy it and give it a go.
I think I would simply have cut out that section and replaced it with a strip of plastic that had the stanchions applied onto it. It would keep that section nice and thin, rather than building thickness with putty…
I suppose that would have worked.
Crazy attention to detail
Thanks!
This is looking excellent. Nice work!
Thanks! I am finally at the point where it feels like I am making progress. I have spent a lot of time correcting and prepping this small part of the superstructure.
Managed to get this and all the brass etch kits for £99, pre wooden decked, and a few things to replace but good snag on ebay nevertheless, yours gives me a great guide so thank you and look forward to seeing your quality
It sounds like a good deal. I hope you enjoy the build.
Absolutely fantastic work!! Ive been watching your videos lately and using them to learn how to do better work on my own builds. I used this same method for installing all the railings on my USS Alaska kit and they turned out wonderful. Thanks for the unintentional tutorials!! Hahaha
I am glad the videos have been helpful!
@@DavidsShips your videos have made me a better builder! I appreciate you making these videos!!
Just discovered your channel and I think your super underrated! I love seeing the details that go into every part of these ships instead of one short video. I’ve built a 1/700 USS Missouri, but I think you’ve inspired me to take a crack at another ship sometime soon. Looking forward to the next video.
Welcome to the channel! Definitely build another ship. Ship models are the best models.
What size righing thread do you use? 0.1 mm or 0.5 mm? For the cables
I used fine EZ Line, that is 0.25mm.
Scale model builders don’t get enough credit imo. The precision is amazing nice job 👍
Thank you!
I really thought it was a shame the railing got bent and twisted so much during the cutting but you did a great job straightening them back out. Were they annealed beforehand? I always try to avoid accidentally bending any PE while removing it. I can recommend using a small glass panel or ceramic tile, the cutting mats are just too soft for thin PE like like radars or single railings. Anyways, that ships gonna look damn nice when it is finished.
You are right, I should do that. Though in this case I was a bit careless and hooker the rail when I was moving the blade away. I did the other side much more cleanly.
Very nice. Sorry for not having watched the whole series, but do you still recommend the upgrade kits you showed in the intro video?
Thank you for watching any of the videos. If you are building HMS Hood in this scale then Trumpeter is really your only choice for the base kit. I like Pontos kits, and I found the deck to fit very well, so I would still recommend it. The FlyHawk super-detail upgrade kit is on par with what I expect. You could consider the Lion Roar kit as an alternative, it might just come down to availability: www.hmshood.org.uk/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/lionroar.htm As for then endless parade of corrections I am making to the kits, that is just the nature of the game when information has been lost to time. The reality is that if the HMS Hood Association had not put in the time and effort to research the ship and write the guide then I would have happily built the kit out of the box and moved on to the next ship. The corrections I am making are not because the parts don't fit together, it is because they are not historically accurate.
@@DavidsShipsthank you for the detailed answer. I think I will go for the FlyHawk as well.
Bro has accuracy stats on max
This was a tricky little model.
Wow only 40 likes for this. You deserve more
Thank you! At least the channel is slowly growing.
Inspiring.
Thank you!
incredible
Song name?
It is Top Of The Morning by TrackTribe. You can find it in the UA-cam music library.
Where do you buy your Kits in SA? I struggle to find the upgraded brass kits.
I have to import them. The market in SA is far too small for anyone to stock them locally.
@@DavidsShips Any recommended sites? Im finding the Pontos kits too expensive
I am usually looking for something specific, and often uncommon, so I buy it wherever I can find it. I start by looking for the kit on scalemates.com and try to find a shop that is stocking it from there. There seem to be a number of good shops in Poland. For the less common kits eBay is often good. For backorder kits Hong Kong can have some options. Shipping from Hong Kong got much worse after COVID. Pontos kits are expensive, most super-detail kits are expensive. Super-detail kits are often 2 to 3 times more expensive than the base kit.
@@DavidsShips and would you recomend 3D printed parts or is it overkill?
@@DavidsShips building the Graf spee from academy and looking to add a kit..
Great work! I have this HMS Hood model in my future projects stash and can't wait to get started on her. One to finish and one in the queue to complete first. I have learned a lot of techniques watching your videos. Thank you!
I am glad the videos have been helpful! You will also get to benefit from a substantially updated guide from the HMS Hood Association. Pennant51 has made a lot of very good updates to it.
You might want to inform the individual in charge of the guide that sovereign hobbies paints seems to be indefinitely closed, and therefore the most accurate paint on their paint page is not going to be available. Ship is looking great!
That is unfortunate. Even if the paint is unavailable it is the best reference we have for the colours.
@@DavidsShips There are a few other companies that seem to have their own version of the color, though I am not sure how accurate they are. Tru-color paints out of the US primarily focus on railroad colors, but they seem to invest a lot of effort into accurate colors. They also produce military colors. I have some of their US navy colors. Excellent paint straight out of the bottle and they also have royal navy colors. Unsure of how available they are out outside the US however. I'll be trying out those paints when I start painting my own Hood.
how are you so precise?
I don't know! I guess I just have the knack.
Why even glue the barrels in?
If you are asking why I don't install the articulated version of the barrels, it is because then you cant have blast bags. Due to the way I display my ships, I prefer to have a blast bag with a static barrel over moveable barrels without blast bags.
I have used Micro Master parts in two ship models. They are outstanding. I have also acquired Micro Master parts for my upcoming HMS Hood project.
Looking good. I was curious. Did you pick the paints because they were close enough, or is there reference somewhere implying that they were acceptable colors? I did not see Tamiya listed on the website as a recommendation.
I chose them because they were the closest paint I could get a hold of to the paints recommended by the HMS Hood Association. Since the precise colours are unknown, I figured that a close match would do.
@@DavidsShips Ah so even the recommended colors are not technically accurate? I did not know that. Thanks.
The recommended colours are the closest you will get based on the research that has be conducted. If I had access to those paints I would have used them.
@@CrisstheNightbringer Do you have access to information for 'technically correct' colours? I'd love that info.
My testors 1148 thinner melts my acrylic x-22 clear when i try rust effects.Still my acrylic clear melts. Idk know why. any answers?
I have never used Testors products. From what I can see it is an enamel thinner so it is surprising that it is harming cured acrylic. I suggest mineral turpentine/white spirits or Mr. Weathering Color Solvent if you want something odorless. I have tested Tamiya X-20 (enamel) thinner on Tamiya acrylic paint and it does not dissolve it.
@@DavidsShips thx ill try that tamiya.
HOW MUCH IS THIS WHERE IS THIS I NEED IT
The kit is BigBlueBoy 36002 and the decals are Peddinghaus 3354. You can find the kits on Ebay. There appears to be only one BigBlueBoy kit available.
I'm wanting to build a very detailed model of USS North Carolina ,three too four footer,where can I find it wanting it to e realistic
A model of that size would be 1:200 scale, that is a less common scale. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a 1:200 scale USS North Carolina. 1:350, the scale I build, will be around 2 feet.
i came here from the Nagato video just to say that it looks incredible!
Thanks!
Yeah but it's a matter of proportion the Gustav and dora were absolute exceptions, when you consider most other railway guns they are hovering around 8, 9, 10, 11 inches the bl 9.2 inch british guns or the k5 german railway guns in general naval guns on capital ships far exceeds their land based counterparts simply because its a lot easier to transport things via water not to mention you can pack multipul weapons on one ship good luck dragging multipul gustave weapons around and proven by the fact the thing only ever fired 47 shots in its entire existence many railway guns and almost all semi mobile land artillery is in the light cruiser to ww1 battleship range simply because of its impracticality when I becomes to gigantic still a impressive weapon and cool kit
The area where u we’re fixing near the admirals cabins, there a bracing on the port side that u had up in the photo. U could possibly add that
I see what you mean but it is not very clear to me what that is. I don't think it is at the edge, you can't see it in the photo below from the aft. I think it is either a support in the interior or it is the corner of a bulkhead, it does step out in that area.
Pretty cool that more information is constantly being updated on that website. If only this level of resources was available for every ship we built lol.
I agree! I am very grateful for Pennant51's support.
Beautiful collection! Congratulations 👍🏻🇦🇺
the paint looks very thick
It is not so much that the paint is thick as the part is small. The long side is 3mm.
Might be the camera but the colors of those navigation lights look very dull to me, especially the green. Reminds me a bit of olive drab. What colors did you use?
It is Tamiya XF-5 and XF-7, that is green and red.
That might explain it, combined with the grey base underneath, that the red looks a bit muted and especially the green seems very dark. Mine are definitely brighter. I didn't build anything in a while because lack of space but as far as I remember I used X-5 and X-7 because they are a bit brighter than the matte ones and I painted the position lights white first. Painting them on a white surface might actually be the bigger factor than the paint being X or XF.
At first I was kind of getting bored watching all the videos about the work on this specific area BUT I realized that when I build my model this is exactly the stuff I need to have as reference and the methodology for completing the modifications. So keep the videos coming, some people might prefer videos with more progress in less time but people who intend to build and modify the model will really appreciate your effort. Thanks a lot for the work you put into producing them.
I have been wondering about that lately. This is really getting into the minutiae and I did suspect that it would become boring for many viewers. But then I thought, as you said, this series could be a reference for others who are building this kit. I have already started the shorts series for this build which viewers can use as a sort of index to find the long form video with the details they want. I am also considering making a full build video for the Roma from all the footage I collected during that build and then doing the same for this model when it is complete.