Відео

In general I followed the same process in this video: ua-cam.com/video/7RnkKxx7huU/v-deo.html As you noticed, the main difference is that for the PoW most of the plastic is removed from the deck and replaced with resin and photo-etch. On my model the photo-etch strips for the anchor chains, the openings for the hawse pipes, and the base of capstans are all on top of the wooden deck. I have old, and not very good pictures, where you can see the deck after installation on the hull and before anything was installed on the deck. If you would like these pictures send me an email using my channel email address.

Yes, first with an acrylic gloss varnish before weathering and finally with a matt varnish to seal in everything.

At times small work like this can be frustrating. Especially when a part escapes the table!

These are the paints: Light grey: 1 to 1 Tamiya XF-2 and XF-19 Dark grey: Tamiya XF-24 Deck: Tamiya XF-54 Lower hull: Humbrol enamel 101 (I mixed Tamiya paints to match the colour)

@@DavidsShips Ciao David, thank you for your prompt reply. I remember your hull video to get the colors i have to mix for it. It’s a real pity you did not post fore deck painting, but all the playlist is really full of hints and ideas. Thank you Marco

It is a pity. I started building the Roma kit before I started the channel. To paint the recognition markings I scanned in the painting guide, enlarged it, and printed it in the same scale as the model. I then placed it on the deck and used it to precisely mark the stripes. After painting the stripes I discovered that the stripes on the Trumpeter painting guide are not parallel! It looked really bad on the ship. It took a bit of tweaking on the model to get them straight. I think that is the only thing to look out for with the recognition markings.

It was one of those kits with common frets for multiple ships in the class. Those components weren't needed for HMS Prince of Wales.

@@DavidsShips ah good to know. I have both duke of York and KGV in my stash so I should have some extra. Thanks!

Nothing special, I think it is a local rebrand of a generic dual action gravity fed airbrush.

Thank you for the recommendation!

I will do a short build after HMS Hood, I have a Type VII C/41 submarine planned. After that I intend to build the USS Alabama.

Ah right, i think you mentioned the sub already sometime in the build.

I am glad you are enjoying the series!

Thanks for the suggestion! There certainly are times when having rigging that doesn't stretch is useful. It makes me think back to when I re-rigged the Nagato model.

@@DavidsShips You’re very welcome. I really enjoy your videos - right to the point, well lit, clear and concise english, excellent subject matter… Well done !

I have considered using it, I've even looked for it in my local hobby shop, but they didn't have any. If I do come across some I will buy it and give it a go.

I suppose that would have worked.

Thanks!

Thanks! I am finally at the point where it feels like I am making progress. I have spent a lot of time correcting and prepping this small part of the superstructure.

It sounds like a good deal. I hope you enjoy the build.

I am glad the videos have been helpful!

@@DavidsShips your videos have made me a better builder! I appreciate you making these videos!!

Welcome to the channel! Definitely build another ship. Ship models are the best models.

I used fine EZ Line, that is 0.25mm.

Thank you!

You are right, I should do that. Though in this case I was a bit careless and hooker the rail when I was moving the blade away. I did the other side much more cleanly.

Thank you for watching any of the videos. If you are building HMS Hood in this scale then Trumpeter is really your only choice for the base kit. I like Pontos kits, and I found the deck to fit very well, so I would still recommend it. The FlyHawk super-detail upgrade kit is on par with what I expect. You could consider the Lion Roar kit as an alternative, it might just come down to availability: www.hmshood.org.uk/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/lionroar.htm As for then endless parade of corrections I am making to the kits, that is just the nature of the game when information has been lost to time. The reality is that if the HMS Hood Association had not put in the time and effort to research the ship and write the guide then I would have happily built the kit out of the box and moved on to the next ship. The corrections I am making are not because the parts don't fit together, it is because they are not historically accurate.

@@DavidsShipsthank you for the detailed answer. I think I will go for the FlyHawk as well.

This was a tricky little model.

Thank you! At least the channel is slowly growing.

Thank you!

It is Top Of The Morning by TrackTribe. You can find it in the UA-cam music library.

I have to import them. The market in SA is far too small for anyone to stock them locally.

@@DavidsShips Any recommended sites? Im finding the Pontos kits too expensive

I am usually looking for something specific, and often uncommon, so I buy it wherever I can find it. I start by looking for the kit on scalemates.com and try to find a shop that is stocking it from there. There seem to be a number of good shops in Poland. For the less common kits eBay is often good. For backorder kits Hong Kong can have some options. Shipping from Hong Kong got much worse after COVID. Pontos kits are expensive, most super-detail kits are expensive. Super-detail kits are often 2 to 3 times more expensive than the base kit.

@@DavidsShips and would you recomend 3D printed parts or is it overkill?

@@DavidsShips building the Graf spee from academy and looking to add a kit..

I am glad the videos have been helpful! You will also get to benefit from a substantially updated guide from the HMS Hood Association. Pennant51 has made a lot of very good updates to it.

That is unfortunate. Even if the paint is unavailable it is the best reference we have for the colours.

@@DavidsShips There are a few other companies that seem to have their own version of the color, though I am not sure how accurate they are. Tru-color paints out of the US primarily focus on railroad colors, but they seem to invest a lot of effort into accurate colors. They also produce military colors. I have some of their US navy colors. Excellent paint straight out of the bottle and they also have royal navy colors. Unsure of how available they are out outside the US however. I'll be trying out those paints when I start painting my own Hood.

I don't know! I guess I just have the knack.

If you are asking why I don't install the articulated version of the barrels, it is because then you cant have blast bags. Due to the way I display my ships, I prefer to have a blast bag with a static barrel over moveable barrels without blast bags.

I chose them because they were the closest paint I could get a hold of to the paints recommended by the HMS Hood Association. Since the precise colours are unknown, I figured that a close match would do.

@@DavidsShips Ah so even the recommended colors are not technically accurate? I did not know that. Thanks.

The recommended colours are the closest you will get based on the research that has be conducted. If I had access to those paints I would have used them.

@@CrisstheNightbringer Do you have access to information for 'technically correct' colours? I'd love that info.

I have never used Testors products. From what I can see it is an enamel thinner so it is surprising that it is harming cured acrylic. I suggest mineral turpentine/white spirits or Mr. Weathering Color Solvent if you want something odorless. I have tested Tamiya X-20 (enamel) thinner on Tamiya acrylic paint and it does not dissolve it.

@@DavidsShips thx ill try that tamiya.

The kit is BigBlueBoy 36002 and the decals are Peddinghaus 3354. You can find the kits on Ebay. There appears to be only one BigBlueBoy kit available.

A model of that size would be 1:200 scale, that is a less common scale. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a 1:200 scale USS North Carolina. 1:350, the scale I build, will be around 2 feet.

Thanks!

I see what you mean but it is not very clear to me what that is. I don't think it is at the edge, you can't see it in the photo below from the aft. I think it is either a support in the interior or it is the corner of a bulkhead, it does step out in that area.

I agree! I am very grateful for Pennant51's support.

It is not so much that the paint is thick as the part is small. The long side is 3mm.

It is Tamiya XF-5 and XF-7, that is green and red.

That might explain it, combined with the grey base underneath, that the red looks a bit muted and especially the green seems very dark. Mine are definitely brighter. I didn't build anything in a while because lack of space but as far as I remember I used X-5 and X-7 because they are a bit brighter than the matte ones and I painted the position lights white first. Painting them on a white surface might actually be the bigger factor than the paint being X or XF.

I have been wondering about that lately. This is really getting into the minutiae and I did suspect that it would become boring for many viewers. But then I thought, as you said, this series could be a reference for others who are building this kit. I have already started the shorts series for this build which viewers can use as a sort of index to find the long form video with the details they want. I am also considering making a full build video for the Roma from all the footage I collected during that build and then doing the same for this model when it is complete.