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Could be. It could also be an alignment issue with your control lever, especially if it was messed with before. That is one reason I took the entire assembly off as I did not want to mess with tolerances to get that correct. I'll look through my notes and see if I recall anything, it has been a while since I tore into this. When you say remove the valve, are you pulling just one or both?

@@jclaudii thanks for the reply! I didn’t even expect a reply because I seen the video was older. Yes I pulled both valves out and cleaned them thoroughly. I think you may be right. Yesterday I decided to adjust the nut inside the box that holds the lever to the rod, and i got a little bit of lowering action. It takes about 6minutes to lower all the way with weight on it. But... the nut is now backed out as far as I can before it coming unthreaded, and the lowering speed knob is also adjusted for maximum lower speed. So from here I’m not sure what to examine without pulling the valve body. I thought about changing filter and running diesel through the transmission to see if it clears anything up.

Good day Elvis Smith, I don't have my email or contact info setup for this, but I'm working on getting something. In the mean time feel free to comment here as I do get notifications.

I'm not sure why I did not think of a slide hammer :)

PS, that only works for one of them . . . The other one needed the anchor bolt like he is showing but i put that on my slide hammer too.

I have that thing still apart in a box. I found a few other issues with the tractor and our farm I had to tackle first, but I do plan on completing this series eventually!

@erikanderson hopefully it helped get your valve body apart.

@@jclaudii It helps to know what l am working with by seeing what is inside...

Pl

If it just won't lift anymore after a period of time it could be one of the following: 1. ) seals broke on the lift cylinder (cold oil is thicker and it works at it should for a limited time) 2.) pump is getting air somewhere causing suction issues and cavitation. Could even be a filter issue if the filter is extremely dirty it may not suck enough fluid 3.) worn hydraulic pump I mean with cold oil it will perform better and get worse with time. I would suggest to hop onto a dedicated David Brown tractor forum or page on FB and ask around more there.

@@jclaudii thanks my friend.

Phillip, you may be able to do that, but I found a manual pdf file and read through it several times and ask the folks over at the David brown tractor forums on thoughts as well. I think one reason I left it all together is the requirement of some special tool or having to make one to get the spacing and align just about perfect mounting that valve body back to where it sets. That little kidney shaped plate will get you access to these two valves if you can work in that tight space.

Hello , thanks for replying so quick , I,ve been out & looked again at it , & the plate I mentioned is 9-1/2" x 7- 1,2 " , & it,s almost certainly for connecting the gearchange linkage up when fitting the cab , as it,s too far forward & too far up for access to the selectamatic valve , which you can just about see the right side of , this seems mounted on the front face of the back axle ,R.H. side , when the rockshaft right bracket is mounted on the back face of it , & it,s covered with a piece of black expanded foam with a cable clip holding it , so , I think I,ll be looking into joining the D.B. club here in england , to get the knowledge & put a video or two up if they have a forum for that ,( I could put the same video on here ! )The cab mounting bracket is directly above the selectamatic valve , so I think I,ll be phoning Mr Barcley Williams again for advice also , as he supplies most of the bits for these here in mid - england .Best Regs from across the pond .

Thanks for your efforts , I,ll join the D.B. club here , & then do it your way anyway so as you say , not to upset the relationship between the R.H. crossshaft box & selectamatic valve , it might be dowelled , but until you get it off you can,t tell , so be able to scribe around the valve body first before undoing the fasteners , & get it back into the same position . Best Regards .

I got a huge magnet from HF to help with that now :)

I was and am still learning. I will take your feedback. Also, I only decided to make a video so I can remember how to put it back together.

Frank I never got it back together yet. I had to chase down a broken part and it has sat in a box in the house for a while. Basically other fish to fry. I have some footage of me smoothing the bores that I need to put up sometime.

@@jclaudii Ok, looking forward to seeing them when the come. These are actually some important videos. A common problem for us DB owners.

@@jclaudii Where are you finding parts? I need that valve that had the screen in it because the screen is out of mine. I also need the plate that goes on the bottom of the hydraulic filter. without it the oil isn't forced through the filter media thus causing those little valves to plug.

I believe it is Frank.

@@jclaudii Excellent ! I have 6 of them.... lol None of them work.

Peter Flitcroft I could only imagine being an expert in DB hydraulics. I bet half the old timers in the countryside are well versed in these machines .

Peter Flitcroft hmm good to know I think I put all the parts in separate baggies, if not is there anyway to identify which ones are which?

Michael Persinger I have no knowledge of the db1200, if it looks similar to the 885 you can see if there is an access hole above the valve area. Mine had that but was rusted up so I had to pull. I joined one of the UK David brown forums for more info, you may have to do the same as well.whats yours doing? Good luck!

Well when you start it up the lift arms lift right away and the handle that lifts the arms goes to the up position right away and when you try to lower the arms the handle seems like its got a heavy spring on it and goes right back to the up position ... there is a top cover there where the valves are i just wasnt sure if there was springs and ball bearing on the top of them ? anyway thats for the information ...

Michael Persinger my 995 does the same thing. You ever figure what it was?

The 1200 series is just like the 995, 996 etc. Which has a top access cover held on with 2 screws. Under the cover there are 2 screw in caps over the valves, lefty loosie, righty tightie.

I have not got it going yet, I still have the valve body sitting in my shed and I have the piston and valves in the house in a box. I have put together a list for myself to order up some parts like piston Oring and Leather washer/spacer/wiper. I plan on making a video on me polishing the valves and bores with some 4k or 6k grit sandpaper. I had to put alot of this on hold as I broke a main hold down cast part and had to find another and my air compressor stopped working and had to fix it as well. Thanks for watching and feel free to subscribe as I'm sure I'll get back to it soon or this spring as I need to get her going!

Mine does not have a loader on it but from what I have read on forums the control valve seems to be a common point of failure. Either a tiny piece of crud or a bit of rust causes those valves to not do what they are supposed to and the lift does not function. Please take this with a grain of salt. I broke a piece and had to order another part in and will eventually put it all back together to see if it works yet.

I've got the same year and engine. I bought it with that noise 3 years ago at 187K miles and it now makes the same noise with 278K miles on it. And not that I'm proud of it, But I ran it out of oil one time about 2 years ago, And I also drove it without a cooling fan for 60K miles, I just kept it moving fast enough to keep almost cool. That thing should be dead by now, And I wouldn't hesitate to drive it across the country again! :)

Sounds like a bad lifter if it's been going on for that long and is still running. pretty sure a rod would have worsened or failed by now.

JClaudII What was the check engine light for?

JClaudII FYI, the valve springs themselves have been known to break, and you may need to look closely to see it.

I would also like to know if there was anything found

JClaudII That sounds like valve train noise. Rocker or lifter trouble? What did you find out, did anything fail eventually?