Відео

Thank you, and thanks for watching!

Thanks! Yep, she's a beauty eh! Not just a table saw though. :) ua-cam.com/video/X5VA67rRQ6A/v-deo.html Thanks for watching.

I'll have to load it up with shoes and show how it works when i put the fronts on. :) Thanks for watching. 😃

For sure. When i put the faces on, i will load it up with some shoes so you can see how it works. :) Thank you for watching!

Fantastisch! Vielen Dank fürs Zuschauen. :)

Hi @alinthekeys, I made the two dado's so the divider could be changed up to accommodate different types of shoes. It actually worked very well and the client is super happy with how all her shoes fit. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the feedback, and thank you for watching. :)

Thanks Vera!! :)

Thank you for watching. 😀

Hi Dave, I wish i could say i bought it at Home hardware or somewhere like that, but unfortunately not. The one i was using in the video is a Stanley i think. It's a beauty little tape i bought last time i was in Australia. I also have a metric Fatmax i bought many years ago in Australia, but don't use it so much in the shop, as i find a 5m (16') a better size. I have lots of tape measures around the shop, many of which are metric/imperial. What i've never really understood about all those tapes though, is how the markings on the other side of the tape are the same as the top side. It would make more sense to me to have all the metric markings on one edge, and all the imperial markings on the other, that way you could simply turn the tape over to measure on the opposite edge of the tape. Thanks for watching!

@ Roger - thanks! I have a number of tapes as well, I work in residential construction. Currently working through the apprenticeship program where we do most projects in metric, which I prefer for the joinery/finish work. I have a couple of metric/imperial tapes, but use my folding rule more (same marks on both edges), and a NZ Good Rule - similar to what you have. I did find a Tajima metric only tape at Atlas, which I probably will get a couple of copies of. I do like my Stabila tape, of which they do make a metric only version for Europe. Ironically, I have found online stores in Australia (!) selling it, but it will be a bundle to ship them here. Asking a major local reseller of Stabila for the metric version just got me crickets…

Hi Tod, I very much appreciate you watching the videos, and the feedback! That's fantastic you bought a Combo machine. What did you buy?

@@brycecomerwoodworks A used CF741. I still have not seen it. It's currently being shipped.

@ Oh that's very exciting! Congratulations on the purchase. They are an amazing machine.

I'm sorry George, i only did a bit of talking head in the video and didn't do a subtitle for it. The rest of the video is just me working and no voice over. I will have to make sure in future that i have CC or subtitles. Regards, Bryce

Thanks for watching @cdnbean, I didn't put a voice over on the video. I thought i might try one with just the video. Luckily for everyone though, i cut out my singing! 😆

Thank you! I can definitely give you the drawing file if you want it.

Will you post plans?

@ Sounds like some people out there would like me to, so yes. I will have to figure out how to make them accessible for everyone. I'll post here again as soon as i do. Thanks for watching.

That sounds like an amazing shoe stand/display. Incredible to think that the company has been operating that long, incredible!

Thanks for watching Mike, Felder make some lovely machinery. I wish i had room for more! :)

Thanks for watching Peter, I will have to do a video on turning a regular drill bit into a brad point bit. I typically have most of my drill bits ground like that, but not that one! :)

😅

Hi @KWCabs, Thanks for watching. It could be a few things. First of all, check your riving knife. It should be about half a millimeter thicker than the blade plate itself. (Not the kerf) If it's much thinner, and the material being cut starts to bind, it won't stop the material binding and wanting to lift, or even worse, be thrown back. If the material being ripped has stresses within the board it may want to bind on the back of the blade, if that were the case, it may want to lift. Unless i'm just ripping a small amount off the edge of a board, i will always use the short rip fence (on the K700 you would simply pull the fence back to half way along the blade). This will minimize the chance of the board being forced over into the blade (pushing the riving knife out of the way in the process) and causing the board to want to lift, and/or be forced back toward the user. Check too the position of the fence in relation to the blade. I actually have mine set virtually parallel with the blade, just a little bit open. Make sure though that it's not too much. It should be so little, that you will hear the teeth rub on the board as it goes past the teeth on the back of the blade. A universal blade is great for a few cuts ripping, a few cuts crosscutting, basically it's a do it all blade, but if you're needing to rip a bunch of material, pop a dedicated rip blade on. If i'm doing a bunch of ripping, i will use a 28T 315mm blade, but if the material being ripped is hard and/or thick, i will go for a 14T 315mm blade. Keep in mind that i typically rip all my material before processing it further. I hope this helps, but please let me know if anything i have suggested doesn't solve your problem, and i will have another try. :)

@brycecomerwoodworks thanks...I don't think it has to do with the splitter as it seems to want to lift before it reaches it...I have the rip fence set parallel or possibly toe out a thou or 2. I'm starting to wonder if the dust extraction could possibly doing it sucking the board up the tiniest bit, but to be honest I just feel like it might be the geometry of the blade for some reason... but I'm at a bit of a loss... never really had this issue before.

@@KWCabs Very interesting! Blade geometry may well be what is making the difference. Try playing around with the height of the blade for your rip cuts and see what that does. I recently did a little video on the blades i use and made various different cuts with the blade set low to the material, and as high as the blade would go and was really surprised at some of the results. In some cases the cut was cleaner with the blade up rather than just above the top of the material. I can only imagine that has to do with blade geometry so you may be onto something thinking that way.

Thanks for watching @sefanrenser4328, I'm not sure which machine you're referring to. Can you elaborate on what you are seeing? Maybe it's at a different time in the video?

@@brycecomerwoodworks As far as I can tell, you use it to cut glass strips at a mitre. It seems to be a machine without electricity but with a lever. I had a mistake with the time, it is at 26:00

@@stefanrenser4328 Ah right, yes that's a mitre shear. I guess you could call it a poor mans Morso mitre guillotine. I'd love a Morso, but they're expensive and i don't do enough to warrant the expense. The one you see me using is very affordable, and works quite well for the cost. You can see them here. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/32922-miter-trimmer?item=03H0101

Hi kevin, thanks for watching. Those are great suggestions, especially the crazy dolly. I did have one that i used a lot with my old machine, especially in my old workshop. It was getting in my way in this shop and i started not using it but you can still see it in the video. Since this video i have refined how i load the sheetgoods onto the slider, and its really easy now to carefully lean them onto the slider straight out of the rack. The sheets i was cutting up were plywood, so pretty light compared to particle board or mdf! :) As for your suggestion of pulling the fence back, it can be done on this fence to a point, but the way the fence is designed to be taken off and used on the jointer, it doesn't pull as far back as a the fence on a dedicated saw, at least not without taking the little wheel off that helps it slide across the table. I could use the short rip fence, (which i do whenever i'm ripping solid wood) but have no issues ripping as i do in the video, Maybe that's a result of working on different types of saws over the last 40 years! :)

Thank you. In an effort to increase efficiency with space in the workshop, i am going to make a new one that will fit all my blades. It's a great design that allows me to change blades without putting them on the metal surfaces of the machine. Thanks for watching!

I'd have to check, i'm going to say it's 20 feet.

By cheating, i'm guessing you mean standing on the top step? :) Yeah they sure do! :) Good idea with the helmet. Considering all the evidence for how dangerous falls from ladders can be, i'm surprised it's not madatory on big sites. Hard hats are, but of course they're pretty much useless for a fall from a ladder. Thanks for watching!

Lol...I never thought of that! Yeah, I can say that I'm a big time cheater, and at 50....

I'm glad to hear you're ok after that fall. I've been lucky in the past myself with some falls off ladders. It happens so fast. These platform ladders are amazing for working off where it allows. Stay safe. :)

I think so too. It could read; Felder. I'm that one person who can't hold the fence up to the stop when locking it down! 🤪

:)

Yeah i totally agree, but as i said in the video, for some reason i seem to be able to tighten it up with it off the stop. All user error of course, but this will eliminate that. If the pin is in the hole, the fence will be at 90 degrees.

@ Yeah. User error is a thing. I’ve cut critical angles forgetting to tighten the pivot bolt from underneath, and the angles still came out perfect.

@@bethoughtprovoking Oh i've done that too! 😆 Where i haven't had as much luck is when i tighten the Kipp lever, but forget to tighten the two black knobs that attach the aluminum part with the pins in it to the back of the fence. That's happened a couple of times for sure. 😊

👍🏝️🇨🇦

Wow, that's very kind. Thank you. I will keep trying to make better videos that are easier to watch. Thanks for watching!!

Asolutely right there! I honestly don't know why it's even an option, it should just be standard.

@ I spoke to the company about it, and they told me that in Europe dado cuts with saws aren’t that common. Personally, I don’t understand it; it’s such a versatile option.

@@bethoughtprovoking I totally agree. It's essentially just a different arbor with a filler piece when a saw blade is being used. Having the saw set up with the dado option gives you just that, options!

Maybe a little! 😊 I should have gone with the 10hp motors. It isn't too much of an issue, i can still take a 3mm cut off a 12" wide piece of oak when thickness planing or example, but more power would be nice! 😁

@ I was thinking more about shaping. That’s where you need horsepower for those stacked cutters. But, to be fair, anything at or over 7hp is adequate. Take care!

@@bethoughtprovoking Hang on a minute, are you saying you can actually have enough horespower? 🤣

@ You got me there!😂

Hi @BarrieStott, That's a bummer the retrofit scoring unit is no longer available. I actully just looked it up and it looks like the only scoring unit available is for 2007 machines and newer. :( I made up a couple of zero clearance table inserts with reasonable results. Perhaps a HiATB blade for your sheetgoods in combination with a zero clearance insert may be the ticket? I would probably use the ones i made more often, but i find it a drag to be constantly changing them out whenever i need to make a bevel cut. If i get time, i would like to make a couple more with very strong rare earth magnets so there is no need for screws when changing them out. As far as the blade drawers go, they are fantastic and well worth making. The fact that they keep the blades safe from banging into other blades etc. and well organized when they are stored is only half of why i like them so much. The fact that i take both the drawer with the blade i want to put on the saw, and the drawer for the blade i'm changing out, to the saw, means i have a nice surface to put the blades on in the process, ensuring i don't damage the blades or the table surface. Thanks for watching!

I was pretty unhappy about the lack of scoring when I collected the machine. I had committed myself to buying the machine but the seller hadn’t been totally honest with me. The machine cost just £2,500 and I spent another £600 on the refurb. I’ve got a lot of machine and my wife wouldn’t have been happy had I spent more. The machine is great and works well for me. Yes, I do need to try zero clearance. Thanks again

Thanks for watching and for the feedback. I haven't ever had an issue with the adjustment screw loosening off myself. Maybe i'm just heavy handed when tightening things up? 😆 I like your idea of leaving the clamp part on, i will have to try it when i'm at work! Thanks for the tip!!!

@betthoughtprovoking, thank you for adding that. That's a really good point! Just one more reason why insert tooling is so darn good!

Thank you for watching! I use a thin kerf blade on my 12" mitre saw and have used them on my 10" job site table saw. There are probably only 2 real downsides to them that i can think of right now. Blade deflection is the main one, as they definitely flex more than a thicker blade. The other one is the carbide teeth are so small they don't hold up to as much abuse and will chip and even break off more easily. (Just my experience, but others may have different experience with that) Back to deflection; that's where a good quality saw blade comes in. Apart from a lesser quality of carbide (and much less of it) on the cheaper blades, the plate is often not as good on a cheap blades. Whether that's due to them not being hardened to save money, or not being hardened as well i couldn't say, but i think those are just a couple of reasons why there's a big difference in price between blades.

Hi David, thanks for watching. I haven't yet tried that blade, but it does sound like a great blade for a lot of things. I was seriously considering one for a while but ended up passing after i heard something that made me think it wouldn't work for my use case. I don't remember what that was though now. I might have to look into it again to make sure it wasn't just the cost! 😉

@ yeah the cost is quite high for a blade and I don’t have it long enough to vouch for its longevity but over a year so far on my k740s and the only other blade I use is a 400mm ripping blade when breaking out 2 inch hardwoods etc, but it’s definitely a good finish in all manmade boards with a good clean top cut and better than average quality bottom cut , so if both sides of a piece are seen I’d still use the scoring blade. Perfect top and bottom cuts in solid wood and smooth surface. Look after yourself and see you in the next one!

@@Davidcarroll38 Aha, thanks David, yeah that might have been it. The need for the scorer still. (I would still love one though! 😂)

Happy New Year to you too. All the best. Thanks for watching.

Для снятия стола использую специальную тележку. Тогда это просто сделать одному.

@@АртемГолдобин-з5х Me too. It makes it really easy and fast! Thank you for watching.

To be totally honest, i don't remember. I believe they are set up for an open joint of less than .5mm over a 2m length from the factory, but i don't remember what mine was like. A small open joint isnt what i would consider a bad thing especially if its less than .5mm over 2m.

@@brycecomerwoodworksDid you end up commissioning your jointer? Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 All i really did was adjust the outfeed table ever so slightly. I also adjusted the infeed and outfeed rollers of the thicknesser.

I don’t think you should be getting a spring joint, or, at least, it shouldn’t be of noticeable consequence. I have the Dual 51, but I’ve come to realize that all Felder machines can be tuned to perfection. That said, when I joint large slabs, say for dining tables, I hardly ever have trouble getting an invisible glue line.

@@bethoughtprovoking I'm with you there.

This is as big as they get, and considering they can be ordered in all sorts of configurations, there's generally a size that works for anyone's needs. Thanks for watching!!

I'm glad you found it informative. Thank you for watching.

Hi PK, thanks for the feedback. The RL200 is definitely better with the higher horsepower motor, and double the filter area. I can run everything open at the same time and it still works well. Better when i have just two or three gates to machines open though. I need to have at least that to make sure i'm not choking it!

That's fantastic, thank you! Thanks for watching. :)

Thank you!! Happy New Year to you too!

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!!

It sure is a lot of space hey! :) Thankfully taking the outrigger off gains me a huge amount of it back. I tried and tried to make a separate jointer planer work in the space, but it's so darn narrow that it just wouldn't work. If i could somehow make a beam me up Scotty system to get up to the office, lathe and stock on the mezanine, i could get rid of the stairs and gain some space that way. I haven't figure that out yet though! 😆 Thanks for watching!!

@brycecomerwoodworks when you figure that one out please share! But I will admit that I would probably use it for somewhere else than the shop!

@@donovan90 😂

Если брать отдельный фуганок, его место займет расширитель стола и в итоге площадь занимаемая двумя отдельными станками будет больше. Чтоб обеспечить большее пространство у фуганка я использую колеса и перемещаю станок когда это действительно необходимо.

Thank you, and thanks for watching.

Thank you! And thanks for watching. :)