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PocketVigor
United States
Приєднався 5 вер 2010
tinkering/repairing anything with an engine is my cup of tea. 👌🏼
DISCLAIMER: may not be good at it, but i still try.
DISCLAIMER: may not be good at it, but i still try.
Відео
McCulloch 1-41 rebuild/repair/refresh
Переглядів 2228 місяців тому
bought an old McCulloch 1-41 off craigslist from a guy who had it sit on a shelf as an ornament. he says it last ran about 30years ago before his family put it on the garage shelf.
anong tunog kapag advanced ang timing ng chainsaw ng 8-10degrees BTDC
Переглядів 196Рік тому
paano palakasin ang motor ng chainsaw at ibp. Homelite 35cc na chainsaw with a 16” bar and chain. pinort ang exhaust at pinarami ang butas sa exhaust manifold. Hindi ko pinort ang intake, masyado ako nag dahan-dahan mag port ng exhaust na nawalan na ako ng oras. mabilis pumutol ng kahoy mas lalo na kung kala-kikil lang ng cadena. sinakripisyo ko ang chainsaw na to sakaling hindi na ulit gumana ...
Mcculloch winder removal/disassembly tip
Переглядів 31Рік тому
Mcculloch winder removal/disassembly tip
HP Elitebook 8440p brightness issue fix
Переглядів 9 тис.5 років тому
HP Elitebook 8440p brightness issue fix
You are spraying compressed air which is a cool dense air into the saw leaning the air fuel ratio in the saw. Muffler mods allow more gas to be expelled from your saw which allows a boost in rpm. So muffler mods do not decrease rpm it does the exact opposite.
The vibe is so good
So how did u replace the plastic😂
This is my final step so I can get my truck to pass smog. I’m hoping this is it. I’ve done everything you done in changing an replacing older parts.
not even close😅
Has anyone experienced codes P0172 - SYSTEM TOO RICH BANK 1 and code P0174 - SYSTEM TOO LEAN BANK 2 at the same time?
Doing mine right now. So much uncomfortable work for a POS plastic bushing. Mine is also suffering from a high Idle and lean codes. Hopefully both are from this
What exactly are you trying to show???? Straight pipes/muffler mods increase RPMs
If you're spraying air into the muffler you're leaning it out so it speeds up. Can't really tell what it is you're doing.
Very cool! I just picked up a 4900 counter vibe last week and also got lucky on eBay grabbing a full wrap handle to put on it!
wait what?! post it bro! i’m looking for them 4900 and 5400
Good video! Does anyone have a video on how to fix this problem? I really dont understand, other than greed, why a manufacturer would use plastic on a engine.
Sounds beautiful though I'm in the midst of rebuilding a carburetor on my McCulloch 120 Mac
Reset your pcm. Take negative battery terminal off. then turn headlights on to drain the capacitors. Wait 30 min. Hook back up. Drive normal for awhile
totally working thanks a lot
Very clear video and excellent explanation of issues.
those imrc rods go through bushings thats what the white plastic is
bank 1 is passenger side on fords and 2 is driver side glad i dont have that exact engine my 98 ford E250 has the 4.2 l v6 but its not built like that
I always see your comments over on ford boss lol howdy👋
@@dakotabowes2387 hello
It doesn't want to go back to California... smart truck
Awesome video man!!! Gotta love UA-cam university!!
What would happen if you was to just tie the valve rods open on both sides do you think it would run alright like that
Oh man, I’m about to go look, I’ve changed the Pcv valve, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF sensor and was gearing up to remove the intake manifold. Fingers crossed it’s a simple fix
Was this your issue? I'm throwing both error codes. Wondering if I'm having same.
@@maxz4065 I pulled the upper air intake and changed the gaskets. It was an air leak pulling in through the old gasket. Solved the problem 👍
Are you Thai?😂
back pressure..calculated for by manufacturer... pressure, combustion, explosion=power by transference. (yessir, I know you did..)
Song?
cowbell goth - dragon mane 😂
Ayus idol
Thankyou sir, it worked perfectly...❤
I do not see any HP drivers on their website for Windows 10... Have you seen any? My Function+F9/10/11 keys do not work for brightness. But the latest Version of Win10 update has a Slider Bar on the Notifications bottom right popup, under all the Tiles (ie: network, Location,BT, Airplane mode) By the way, you are right about this laptop still being a good laptop. The 8440P has tons of ports and features plus I have the docking station. And it runs pretty fast especailly if you get rid of the Mechanical HDD and replace with a SSD. That makes more difference than upgrading your processor! And I have seen how Intel has been "upgrading their processors" on the newer models. Half the time if you want more cores, then they cut back on the processer Clock speed. But even the Clock speed is all over the place because of that turbo boost. Not only does it make a clock go up, but it also lets the clock spool down to even 1.xghx when it is idling. So, I have seen processors that are 2.5ghx that will run up to 3.x ghz just like the faster processors.. So, I think there is a lot of overlapping in processors. Meaning half of them are not really upgrades. And also, even if you get a processor that has more cores and more cache, once you go above 4 physical cores, you may be wasting cores if you do not have that much data to process. Its liek having too much ram.. it just sits there. So, ya I think Intel is running into a brick wall. Their only way to force you to send them money is to change a platform entirely and stop support. That's what they did with the I5 to I7. They just renamed it, gave it a little more cache, and sliced up the cores and clock speed. The way they slice the cores and clock speed is like cutting a pizza. You can have 2 big cores and 4 small ones, and a slower clock speed like 2.5ghz, or you can have 6 small cores running at 3,5ghz. As of lately, they call it 2 performance cores, and 4 effecient cores. Same principle! All how you slice it! They have 1 Bed, or 1 Pizza, and they slice it multiple ways and tinker with the clock speed. And every so often they change the Name. But THEN, they Cancel all the older processors! Like some of the older processors are just as fast as the new onces depending on the slice. So I went to the USED market and bought a ZEON processor for my X99 PC Mobo, and it has nearly as many cores and cache as the new processors and the clock speed jumps up with turbo boost, too! So why buy a new processor?
How did you get the old isolator bolts out? Mine just spin.
I have a 1999 E-150 van with the same problem. Access is pretty easy compared to an F-150. Ford did a major disservice to anyone who ever had to repair this part. That was a terribly designed component of a marginally well designed engine. That’s my excuse among others for mainly driving Chevrolet.
just a tip while yours is still running - if your starter ever sounds like it’s just free wheeling on you after it tries to engage the flywheel, don’t keep cranking it like i did. it’s hydrolocked at it’ll bend your rods 😑 happened to me last winter, the intake manifold gasket leaked coolant into the chambers 😑
YOU DONT KNOW SHIT ABOUT CARS OR DIAGNOSTICS! SHOW WHAT YOU LEARNED! DONT MAKE SHIT UP AND PRETEND TO KNOW ENOUGH TO TEACH! KNOW YOUR PLACE YOUNG MAN!
Thanks so much I had the same problems, i checked the plastics for the rods and sure enough it was broken. Now that it's fixed my truck idles great (2003 F150 4.2)
Sangat membantu
great video,I have a 08 4.2l and I'm getting the po174 now,how hard to replace imrc? you got a video on that job?
I don’t have a vid. This the closest vid I have to show. You may need to get those plastic pieces and intake cover bolts- they may snap when you remove them* but as far as difficulty you need to take off a few things ontop starting with the intake*
Just to let you know. Chargers don't have MAF sensors. They have a MAP sensor on the intake planum, driver side.
Thank you. I also had those codes and after following the instructions from other youtube posts all I did was spend money till I came across your posting about the rails. Lo and behold the plastic inserts were all broken apart and 1 rail was completely off. Fixed it and all codes are gone and truck running fine again.
1 and 2 is vacuum leak
thanks !!! I had same problem I bought it from ebay around 4 years ago and I have been using only 60% of brightness all the time till today ! finally I can set it for 100% and it is so bright now like a new screen thanks once again
Having same issue going to check that wire
Check for vacuum leak where levers goes into intake. I experienced that issue with my 01 E250 4.2L
Was it still able to be driven even with this mechanical problem
Yes, Infact I drove it like that without the repair for atleast 6months til I worked on it. It’ll just drop your idle speed out of nowhere very randomly.
Thanks bro
Miss the good ole days
Same here mang 👌🏼😂
Great video, i have one with lean condition, and i replaced a bunch of parts like your and it was the same issue as yours, thanks for making that video
Thanks, that works.
I like this guy made my day! ONE.THOU.WOW #1000
Can you do the irmc without taking the manifold off?
What if I have a p0452 code
That sounds like a fuel related issue. Not related to this vid.
I just found your video. Did you decide to keep the truck?
Yepp - still have it as of today. I have 2 of them now actually -_- I don’t even know what came to me to get another one
When ur under the hood good luck. If ur able to visualize what u saw with ur engine in the truck. Good luck getting there. FORD Fix or repair daily. Found on roadside daily. They make em so they break em. Stay strong home mechanics!
The bad isolator bolts don't leak themelves. They just stop pressing down on the manifold and let the manifold gaskets leak. The way they work is the rubber grommets press down on the upper manifold just through the compression of the rubber when you tighten the bolt down. The grommet is compressed between the top of the bolt and the upper intake manifold, creating downward elastic force on the upper manifold. Over time the rubber gets hard and loses its elasticity and doesn't create any more downward force. Then the manifold gaskets leak. I had the same problem and noticed that all of the isolator bolts had a good seal in their holes. But the gaskets showed signs of leaking. The point of the isolator bolts is to allow the plastic to expand and contract, by separating (isolating) it from the metal lower manifold. Just posting for anyone that wondered how they worked. Thanks for the video, they all help.
luckily i have the earlier engine