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RandomGunTuber
United States
Приєднався 13 лис 2022
Hunting, guns, anti-communist propaganda, whatever I feel like.
Відео
Pushing My 308 To It’s Limits - Long range attempts
Переглядів 1282 місяці тому
Just having some fun while getting ready for a competition. 
Ruger 10/22 Tactical Disassembly & Review Pt2
Переглядів 4355 місяців тому
Ruger 10/22 Tactical Disassembly & Review Pt2
Another Week of Mediocrity - 22 league
Переглядів 365 місяців тому
Another quick rundown of the latest 22 league event.
I Sucked - 22 League Competition Day
Переглядів 596 місяців тому
Quick video over how I did at the latest 22 league event. Definitely made my fair share of mistakes. 
MY HANDS ARE FREEZING - Train Like You Fight
Переглядів 66 місяців тому
Let’s see just how difficult it is to shoot in subzero conditions. 
Ruger, go home, you’re drunk. Ruger 10/22 tactical review. 
Переглядів 3408 місяців тому
Today we are taking a look at a rather interesting rifle and some of the ways I think it could have been improved. 
Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6 early thoughts ( & LPVO concept in general)
Переглядів 1,5 тис.9 місяців тому
Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6 early thoughts ( & LPVO concept in general)
How to find your rifling lands with only a caliper.
Переглядів 152Рік тому
How to find your rifling lands with only a caliper.
Can You 3D Print a Concealed Carry Holster?
Переглядів 3,9 тис.Рік тому
Can You 3D Print a Concealed Carry Holster?
Refinishing a stock with the Birchwood Casey kit 
Переглядів 11 тис.Рік тому
Refinishing a stock with the Birchwood Casey kit 
How to build a shooting range with old tires. 
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
How to build a shooting range with old tires. 
I saw this on sale and bought on impulse buy. If I could turn back clock probably wouldn't have if I knew how difficult to clean it would be
@rrjsc ya it’s a fun little gun, but it definitely has its fair share of odd features.
The only reason I watched you because I thought you was going to do step-by-step on everything you cut out a step. Thanks a lot.
What did I miss?
playing with a *_loaded_* firearm 1 handed trying to stuff it into a janky holster made from cut hose, zinc hardware screws and pocket knife cut channels is turbo crazy...
@Tactics_Actual to each their own. With some time and effort could I change of the design to make us one solid piece with no janky stuff? Absolutely. But this is just showing what’s possible with a couple hours and some messing around.
glad yall is safe, stay strapped
This interests me greatly :) a lot of my OWB holsters - like for competition have custom crap on them. Way too expensive to buy holsters custom made. This is excellent idea.
@alecubudulecu sounds like that could be a good application for them for sure. If you have one comp set up that you run all the time a custom one would probably be the way to go, but in your situation where you have several then yeah this could work well.
I’m actually about to go on a similar adventure. Can’t find any holsters for the Olight PL Mini 2
If you 400 to 600 grit wet sand the first two coats into the pores then steel wool with the 0000 course to remove some bumps and drips. Then you can thin coat it about five or six times and watch it shine
@RedneckPunk yeah, there’s definitely been some discussion in the comments about different wet sanding techniques. I’ve never done anything like that before but it’s some thing I will have to keep in mind for next time.
Mine will cycle 3 or 4 rounds and then fails to fire. After clearing the round, it will fire another 3 or 4 and then jam again. It even double shot once. Any ideas as to how to remedy this? I do have the weight, and bore buddy plug. Too much money spent just to have issues. If I wanted issues, I would still be married.
@patrickbodine1300 LOL to the last part. Regarding your other issue though, it really depends. First off, make you you keep it well oiled, made all the difference in mine. Second, what kind of failures are you getting? Failure to extract, failure to feed, cycled but has a dead trigger? Also, try to use some hotter ammo. I know they offer different kits depending on your barrel length and ammo type, so make sure the kit you bought matches what you are actually running. A couple guys I’ve completed with run those bore buddy kits. Their guns are fast and they are able to out shoot me….when they work. They seem to have more issues than most other guys there. I think those kits can help you dial things in but can definitely make it worse if its not set up right.
Mine had the same problem, specifically failure to completely eject the case, which would get caught in the ejection port. I did two things and now it runs great, both were tips I saw on other vids. 1. Was a little furry side velcro tape on the front of the mags to take up the slop, and 2. Was an additional purchase of an aftermarket charging handle for this kit that does not have the long underside groove that can catch the 22lr brass. I hope this helps.
What’s the dry time on the stain?
@rubencoolidge354 I would say you can hold it in your hands after about an hour but I wouldn’t try to reassemble it or put it in a gun case or anything until you let it sit overnight.
Your wife must be one happy woman.
Lol
Garbage, spent to much time on jams
@JimmieCrews Just trying to be thorough. If it had a bunch of issues and I didn’t cover it, that wouldn’t be a very good or very honest review.
@@RandomGunTuber not criticizing your review, you did a good job. My complaint is with cmmg, garbage product
@JimmieCrews ah I see. I think there’s definitely room for improvement but any time I’m dealing with a 22 I try not to get my hopes too high. Most anything 22 related is mediocre at best.
Bore Buddy reliability kit solved all my jam and extraction issues. Must have for this conversion.
Mine had the same problem, specifically failure to completely eject the case, which would get caught in the ejection port. I did two things and now it runs great, both were tips I saw on other vids. 1. Was a little furry side velcro tape on the front of the mags to take up the slop, and 2. Was an additional purchase of an aftermarket charging handle for this kit that does not have the long underside groove that can catch the 22lr brass. I hope this helps.
I guess it depends on the range or distance you shoot them at
💯🤔 by the looks of things nobody cares😮 go ahead violate my first amendment constitutional rights and delete this comment😮 true loser
What a nice guy. The video has been up for like 9 hours (literally just overnight) and I don’t have that many subs so I’m not in a rush. And I don’t need comments to fill my ego like you do apparently. However, as a 1A absolutist I will leave this comment up so the world can see what a great person you are. Thanks for feeding the algorithm bud.
I heard that tires can make ball pistol ammo bounce back at you and that they should not be used
@Rumwhiskey interesting, I’ve never heard that. There’s been a few times where I was able to walk up to the tires and pull pistol bullets out by hand because they had stopped only a quarter of an inch deep or so. Never thought about them bouncing back but maybe it is possible.
I see a small channel. Happy to be here I hope you will make something with this in the future.
Thanks for the sub and kind words. Slowly but surely…
It's been almost a year since this video dropped. Have your opinions changed at all?
@4xdblack Over the last year I would say that I’ve learned to appreciate having the right gear. In the case for my 320 where there is no holster for it when I use that flashlight or you just can’t find the right thing you don’t really have any choice but to run a 3-D printed one. Or my 320 was never my EDC, my 365 has always been my go to and the 320 once in a while, so making a 3-D printed one instead of spending 100 bucks for a holster for a gun that you never really carry is also a good second option. And of course its always a fun conversation piece, especially for people that don’t know much about 3D printing. But for my 365 that I carry a lot, I don’t think I would ever want to use a 3-D printed holster. Mine wasn’t bad and I’m sure someone has one that’s better than mine but I just don’t think they’re ever going to be quite as good as a quality Kydex one. If you use it every day then a good factory unit is definitely the way to go.
@@RandomGunTuberwhat about the 3D printed one left you unsatisfied vs a Kydex?
@4xdblack the holster that I have for my 365, the holster itself is made out of one material and the part that clips onto your belt is a little bit softer and more flexible. It makes it a little bit easier to get it on and off your belt, and less likely to break. The one in the video I did end up cracking the clip that goes on my belt because I was trying to get it on one day and pulled the hook out a little bit too far and it cracked right where it joins with the rest of the holster. And my retention wasn’t quite as good as a normal holster but it was pretty good though. I think you can get a pretty dang good one if you keep tweaking your model and getting it more dialed in each time but for me personally that wasn’t an option, I got it pretty close the first time and had to leave it at that so mine had a couple little quirks, like you saw with the mag release that I had to just dig away. So long story short, with some trial and error I think you can get it pretty good but at that point you might as well just buy a nice factory one, unless you’re just doing it for fun then go for it.
@@RandomGunTuber thanks for taking the time to answer my questions!
Sweet Fal, a true marksman rifle.
Thanks much, definitely a setup you don’t see everyday.
I’m from Vancouver Canada. I purchased a PCP air rifle. The Woodstock is Turkish walnut. A lot of people on UA-cam recommend Birchwood Casey True oil. The finish is quite rough on the gun. I don’t know if they put any stain on it or if it’s natural. I would like to sand it down and make the Gun finish into a very smooth semi glossy black finish. Do you recommend this product? I can’t seem to find the company website.
I just searched “Birchwood Casey“ and was able to find their website. I think if you’re looking for a basic kit that you know will work it would suffice but if you are wanting to go for something darker you may need to buy a different stain. And for me personally if I’m already buying the stain separately then I would just get some epoxy to finish it with and not mess with a kit. Kind of just depends what your end goal is.
@@RandomGunTuber Thanks for taking the time to get back to me
Thanks, I have nothing but the💡 thought "hey I wonder if you can?" Which I know there cheap in comparison, but I like that Kydex "pop" when you put your pistol in the holster, so I think I'm gonna look into a printer, and software,I would want to make custom containers for all kinda stuff, sounds like a good idea to me to have everything I own have a container withthat"pop" lol. Wonder if you could make one for a folding knife,that worked?II have a knife that doesn't lock too solidly and likes to open in your pockets, I like the knife but fear castration,so I never pack it, but it would be cool in a little holster sheath *pop" yeah if I was you I'd be constantly making stuff, you're lovin it
With some time in the design phase and maybe a couple tries to get the printed piece to come out correctly, I’m sure you could make a holster with that “pop” retention for just about anything.
every gunstock is different and will pose different issues , i found that using the iron method to raise dents also helps raise the grain and any impurities such as skin oils and blood stains especially on the older carry guns , extreme cases of over oiling especially around the tang area might need to be soaked in acetone overnight , i like to wipe down stocks with 99 % isopropyl between coats if i handle the stock with bare hands and it gives you a idea what another coat will do . renaissance wax after gives added protection , sand till you think your good then sand some more i. good video
Newer impalas have this great new feature called "sucking ass" it's a dlc unlocked by working on it at all
Can confirm…
@@RandomGunTuberI know it's not the good ol mid 90s impala with the 350 but what engine is in yours... 3800 v6? Edit: it looks post 2005 which is when they went downhill. The 00-05 could be had with the 3800/3.8 engine which is one of the best engines made. I've seen a ton of Malibus shit the bed too.
@JillsNipple missed your comment somehow. Its a 2010 with the v6. It was great for a while but within a couple weeks it had 3 different things pop up, one took way longer to fix than it should have, one that I couldn’t so I took it to a mechanic, and one that I’ll fix at the next oil change.
Don't do something rash bro
My guy, I am literally just telling people to be prepared in case something bad happens. It’s not like I’m about to go do it myself.
Hell yeah that’s awesome. I’m printing one out of the riptide holster file pack now
That’s awesome. I think having a holster you made yourself makes carrying more fun.
@@RandomGunTuberfor sure especially when you have a light
nice video. looking to do this myself for a few projects for the first time. thanks for sharing your experience
Can you share the files please
@yoyogi52 I'm on Instagram by the same name. DM me there and I can get you the files.
If you want the bolt catch to work you can use a&w m&p 15-22 magazines! And go get a catch 22 bolt release adapter and add there spacer to the front of the top of the magazine and now you’ll have a functional bolt catch, also you can get a dedicated barrel for the cmmg if you want to build another upper you just change the front collar on the cmmg. Also look into bore buddy cmmg reliability kit, you can tune that bolt to run reliable with whatever ammo you use with the adjustable weight and you should get the buffer spacer as well
You definitely should have put on another coat or 2
Looking back at it, I would have liked to but I was about 12 hours from when I had to give it back to the guy I did it for so time was becoming an issue.
@@RandomGunTuber Yeah I'm not saying it looks bad cause it doesn't. It just would of definitely taken a few more coats. As long as the owner is happy that's all that matters
Just had soemone ask today if it was possible, i said id look into it! What material did you print with? Im looking at maybe using carbon fiber for more strength.
@forgivenbigtime7414 can’t remember for sure, there’s a chance it was ABS but odds are it was PLA. The belt clip on the IWB one got a bit stretched and worn with time so carbon fiber might be worth the shot.
The STOCK SHEEN AND CONDITIONER takes the SHEEN down to a hand rub finish. It says so on the bottle.
You need to sand the Tru Oil into the pores. Look at other videos and educate yourself.
I followed the directions that came with the kit. Why are you so angry about my video? Click on the next one if you don’t like it.
There’s a a smart butt know it all on every video. I enjoyed your progress
@@RandomGunTuber Yet here he is watching a "how to" video but going to tell you how to do it lol. Dude has probably never done one but repeating what he saw in other videos lol.
The proper stain for a gunstock is RED. Like the high grade English stopping rifles for Africa.
1) As I mentioned in the video, I was told to use that kit so I did. 2) “Proper” stain color is entirely subjective. Red, brown, dark brown, tan, green sometimes, its all opinion.
Im going with green stain just to make you squirm 😂😂
Talking too much get to the point
Just a few observations - your recoil is pushing your buttstock back and down. Hard to tell but it seems like your bipod and rear bag should be elevated where the buttstock has more rest on your upper chest/collar bone so the scope is not coming back so much that it looks like your almost being hit. I'd love a close up of the crown of your barrel. I've never seen one look like that, even after hundreds of rounds with no cleaning. I'd recommend you take it to your favorite gunsmith and get a new crown. It's worth it and cheap. Regarding handloads, I stopped FL sizing a long time ago unless I have to - best decision ever. My neck sized only brass outshoots my FL sized brass in every hunting rifle I own, custom and factory. BUT, there's rationale for this: 1. I start with NEW brass when working up loads for any given rifle. THEN I check to see if each once-fired case will easily rechamber when I get home. It is rare that they will not. 2. I sort those cases that will easily rechamber (like they did when new), from those that will rechamber but are stiff, even slightly stiff. These two batches of brass are prepped differently. ***THERE IS NO NEED, AND NEVER HAS BEEN A NEED TO FULL LENGTH RESIZE BRASS THAT WILL ALREADY EASILY RECHAMBER IN YOUR RIFLE. YOU ARE DOING NOTHING BUT BUMPING THE SHOULDER BACK EVEN FURTHER THAN IT NEEDS TO BE AND IN MOST CASES YOU ARE CREATING FL SIZED BRASS THAT NOW HAS A 0.004 OR MORE SHOULDER BUMP.*** 3. With each once-fired case that EASILY rechambers, decap, anneal, NECK size with a bushing 0.003 less than a loaded round, DO NOT USE EXPANDER BUTTONS, then use a turn mandrel to increase inside neck diameter to 0.002 less than loaded round for ID uniformity, then trim to length, then rechamber all of this batch again. I've never had one not easily rechamber in decades. **THIS BATCH OF ONCE FIRED BRASS OUTPERFORMS FL SIZED BRASS IN MY EXPERIENCE (since handloading in the 80s) 4. The second batch of once fired brass that will NOT EASILY rechamber gets slightly different prep - decap, anneal, lube, FL size in a bushing die ONLY 0.002 shoulder bump NO EXPANDER BUTTON, wipe off, trim, size over the turning mandrel to expand neck as mentioned above, then rechamber every case in the rifle. WAAAAY too many people FL size no matter what and I've seen case separation because they keep bumping the shoulder "only 0.002" but those same brass already had that much clearance or more from spring back. If a fired case EASILY rechambers and EASILY ejects, it is NOT at your chamber's full size. If you are not annealing, that's a big problem if your brass has been sized a few times, too much work hardening, especially if you are using non bushing dies. Ever measure how tight those necks are getting squeezed down from their fired neck diameter? Take out your expander if you have such dies and measure a fired OD neck vs a sized neck w/o expanding. It's impressive in a very negative way Horizontal stringing often is seating depth, torque on the rifle, which I didn't see you doing, bad crown, wind, among other variables. Don't give up on neck sizing. You just need to know which cases are candidates v those that need FL sizing. Neck sizing is the way to go with bushing dies for hunting applications. Even if you have separate batches of ammo where brass is neck sized only and others are FL sized, it doesn't matter if your rifle is sound, especially inside of 600 yards which is further than most would opine is a reasonable and ethical shot distance on game. I'm prepared to shoot out to 800 but only did that ONE time in 40 years of big game hunting. Most of my shots with rifles are 250 and under
That is quite the process. As of right now I’m doing as much as I can with the equipment I have but as I move forward I will keep it in mind. As well as needing to get new brass to start fresh. And yes, my scope is VERY close to hitting me when I shoot. I’m getting a new scope with lower rings this week so hopefully I can change heights and get things to bounce around less.
@@RandomGunTuber When you read it, yes it seems like quite the process. When you do it and have the procedures down, it's no big deal and you'll be thankful. Two primary recommendations: 1) buy the Little Crow Gunworks annealing bushings, whichever size you need, and start annealing. I keep it simple and anneal after every firing. 2) get Redding ELITE die sets. They come with FL and Neck bushing dies and a competition seater. Get in touch with Angel at Accurate Arms and Ammo for dies. Tell her I sent you
Stop neck sizing!!! Anneal your brass and FL size, trim, and crimp.
I should anneal but I’m to lazy to mess with it right now. But FL size and trim is what I used to do and the results were pretty sub par. Never crimped but I’ve asked around and never came up with a compelling reason why I should.
@@RandomGunTuber Keep neck sizing as described in my comment above, do not crimp but do anneal
does this work with piston guns and do u need to re zero?
From what I have read it will work in a piston gun if you remove the piston. If you leave the piston in it won’t allow the bolt to fully close. And yes, 22lr ballistics are completely different than 223 so you will need to re zero.
You should have wet the stock and sanded it before the stain .
Never heard of wetting it before the sanding. I’ll keep that in mind.
Would that bring the grain in the wood out better or what does wet sanding do?
@Quasar0420 when you wet the wood it raises the grains . You aren't wet sanding, you wet the wood and let it sit then while the grains are raised sand with fine paper or 000 steel wool . Will make it so smooth. Gives it a lusterious finish.
@@LeeChappell-zj3uv Good to know. Thank you
@@LeeChappell-zj3uv So that's something I should do right before I'm getting ready to stain? What grit sandpaper should I finish with before I stain and does it matter if it's a laminated stock?
this is great, how are the clips on the 3d printed holster? i would think they would be weak, no? unless there printed in a different orientation as the holster. if so how did you attach the 3d printed clip too the holster
It is all printed as one solid piece. I did end up breaking the clip on the one that I used to conceal carry but it was totally my fault. If I wasn’t stupid it would still be going strong. In my 3-D model I just make sure I put a fillet where it transitions into the clip so that there are no high stress points.
I have Carl Weather .22 fanbrik KKJ rifle and its stock is broken. Can you help in making a new one?
Making a stock? That’s way above my pay grade. I just make them pretty
You ever fix that stock yet?
Too many uhs
Fair point. Still new to the whole youtube thing.
Great concept. Keep up on the videos