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JoatMon
United States
Приєднався 2 сер 2021
Jack of All Trades, Master of None - J.O.A.T.M.O.N.
Simulated CNC Milling - Running G-Code on LinuxCNC & G0704 CNC Conversion
Now that I've jogged the axes around, I wanted to run some G-Code. I made a simple model in Fusion 360 and used the manufacturing workspace to generate the G-Code for LinuxCNC.
The Grizzly G0704 CNC conversion goes through the motions of milling the part. I didn't run the spindle, so no end-mill was used. This was just an exercise in running G-code on the new CNC mill.
Side note: The way covers are prototypes, 3D Printed using TPU. I'm redesigning them to work with limit switches, but I'm quite happy with the TPU.
Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:19 - The Part and the G-Code
1:26 - Simulation Begins
2:58 - Helical Interpolation Fast Forward Begins
3:21 - Enlarging the Hole
3:38 - Facing Operation
4:07 - X Axis Motor Motion
4:34 - Finishing Pass
5:03 - Volt and Amp Meters
5:58 - Final Operations
The Grizzly G0704 CNC conversion goes through the motions of milling the part. I didn't run the spindle, so no end-mill was used. This was just an exercise in running G-code on the new CNC mill.
Side note: The way covers are prototypes, 3D Printed using TPU. I'm redesigning them to work with limit switches, but I'm quite happy with the TPU.
Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:19 - The Part and the G-Code
1:26 - Simulation Begins
2:58 - Helical Interpolation Fast Forward Begins
3:21 - Enlarging the Hole
3:38 - Facing Operation
4:07 - X Axis Motor Motion
4:34 - Finishing Pass
5:03 - Volt and Amp Meters
5:58 - Final Operations
Переглядів: 1 731
Відео
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion First Motion
Переглядів 3,4 тис.Рік тому
After working at building the system for several months, I've finally got motion from the CNC milling machine axes. Only a couple minor issues came up. The Z axis was running backwards, which was a simple fix by flipping a dip switch on the motor driver to change the motor direction. There was also a clunking noise when the Z axis would move up. Also another easy fix. I was being too conservati...
CNC Conversion - Electronics Enclosure Gets Powered On
Переглядів 9 тис.2 роки тому
Finishing up the Electronics Enclosure for my Grizzly G0704 CNC conversion. This DIY CNC conversion has been a fun and educational experience so far. Using a Mesa 7I76E controller card and LinuxCNC the conversion is nearly complete. Important Note... Don't power on a servo motor system without the motors connected. Mine uses stepper motors and it's OK for my build. Another Note/Update: At 10:57...
Volt / Amp Panel Meter Installation/Mounting
Переглядів 9312 роки тому
Installing cheap panel mount volt amp meters. They are a good value due to the cheap price, but mounting the meters is difficult due to poor design of the bezel and housing. One solution is to remove the circuit board before snapping the meter into the panel. Here's a Link to a post I made with a pics of how to wire up these volt/amp meters: ua-cam.com/channels/HOSNgw0wNxo6bzCCwvRPIQ.htmlcommun...
Unboxing a New Tool - PX900
Переглядів 9902 роки тому
Unboxing a new (to me) tool that will make the CNC electronics enclosure build look and be more professional. Proper labeling of the wires and components throughout the system will save many headaches later on. This will help get the job done right the first time. I requested and received, at no cost to me, the Epson model LW-PX900 because it can print on, up to 36mm label tape. That's 1-1/2 in...
Mesa 7i76E Overview & Single Ended vs Differential Mode Signals
Переглядів 6 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I talk about the Mesa 7i76E CNC controller card. I look at how power is applied to the logic and I/O sections, as well as single ended and differential signals for the stepper controllers. I also take a look at the 7i76E version vs the 7i76ED version which has sinking outputs. For the field inputs I talk about why it a good idea, if using proximity sensors, to select PNP type vs N...
3D Printed Parts for the CNC Electronics Enclosure
Переглядів 1,3 тис.2 роки тому
By request, in this video I talk about the mounts / parts/ adapters that I created for the CNC electronics enclosure for the Grizzly G0704 CNC conversion. The five parts are: 1. Cooling Fan Mount 2. Stepper Drivers Mount 3. DB25 Mount 4. Mesa Controller Mount / Adapter 5. Relay Board Hinged Mount The last few minutes of the video shows all the parts in detail on a rotating stand if you want a c...
Mounting the Connector Panels onto the Electronics Enclosure
Переглядів 9902 роки тому
In this video I use 3D printed templates to make cutouts and screw holes in the ABS enclosure to mount the connector panels. Chapters: 0:00 - Intro 0:05 - Cutout Templates from CAD Model 0:22 - 2mm Pilot Holes for Precision 0:50 - Replacing the Templates to Make the Cuts 1:07 - Making the Strait Cuts with an Oscillating Multi-Tool 1:19 - Curved Cuts with a Spiral Saw Bit in a Dremel Tool 1:35 -...
3D Printed Connector Panels for the CNC Electronics Enclosure
Переглядів 1,9 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I look at the connector panels I 3D printed. Using 3D printed panels ensures that all the connector cutouts are properly shaped and spaced. It also makes it easy to reconfigure by printing a new, updated panel if necessary. I used a UV curing resin to infill the text. Another option is to change the 3D printer filament color for the text vs panel during printing. Sorry for the mic...
Enclosure Component Layout for G0704 CNC Conversion
Переглядів 1,6 тис.2 роки тому
Here I go over the basic layout of the parts and components in the electronics enclosure for the Grizzly G0704 CNC conversion. I will be adjusting the orientation and location of DIN Rails and connectors, but it's pretty close to what I expect it to be. Chapters 0:00 - Intro & Hinged Power Supply Mount 0:32 - Wire Management (wire duct & braided sleeve) 1:08 - Consideration for Enclosure Layout...
3D Printed Rotating Stand Powered By The Printer That Made It!
Переглядів 3882 роки тому
Oh look, a squirrel... I got sidetracked from my CNC conversion to create a rotating stand - platform for shooting some video of objects for the enclosure. See my other videos. In this video I go through the whole process including the CAD model in Fusion 360, and talk about the G-Code which is posted below. It's the first G-Code I've done, so use it at your own risk... Though it's simplistic e...
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Mounting the Power Supplies in the Enclosure - Video #10
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I begin to assemble the electronics enclosure for the G0704 milling machine CNC conversion. I create a 3D printed, hinged mount for the power supplies that power the stepper motors. Update: The VHB mounting tape has proven inadequate to hold the hinges of the power supply mount. I will be bolting the hinges in place. In hindsight I would have used two power supplies. One 48 to 50 ...
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Exploring Closed Loop Stepper Motors - Video #9
Переглядів 21 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Exploring Closed Loop Stepper Motors - Video #9
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Headstock / Mill-Head Installation - Video #8
Переглядів 1,7 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Headstock / Mill-Head Installation - Video #8
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - X Axis Ball Screw Assembly Installation - Video #7
Переглядів 4,8 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - X Axis Ball Screw Assembly Installation - Video #7
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Y Axis Ball Screw Assembly Installation - Video #6
Переглядів 6 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Y Axis Ball Screw Assembly Installation - Video #6
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Z Axis Ball Screw Assembly Installation - Video #5
Переглядів 1,4 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Z Axis Ball Screw Assembly Installation - Video #5
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Y-Axis Disassembly - Video #4
Переглядів 1,1 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Y-Axis Disassembly - Video #4
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - X-Axis Disassembly - Video #3
Переглядів 1,6 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - X-Axis Disassembly - Video #3
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Z-Axis Disassembly - Video #2
Переглядів 1,8 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion - Z-Axis Disassembly - Video #2
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion with Closed Loop Steppers
Переглядів 5 тис.2 роки тому
Grizzly G0704 CNC Conversion with Closed Loop Steppers
Brilliant video, thank you. Now I understand why the various power buses are the way they are, flexibility.
Lots of people don't realize how useful 3D printers are. I can't wait to get my mill conversion done. I know the 3D printer will help me out as well. I have made so many useful things with my 3D printer.
i wish i was smart
@11:10 is just voodoo to me and i know a thing or two about pull-up & Pull-down. looks great!!
A few good ideas, but the case is to small in my opinion. The power supplies and CL-Stepper-Drivers are to near together. Also a plastic box is not really the best for handling high temperature of all aktiv components. And the most people I know about CNC are making the box to small, me too. One guy told me: make a plan what you need. Arrange all parts you need. Double the space and now you have the minimum.
I completely agree. If I were doing it over, I'd use different drivers that accept AC power and then put a transformer in a different enclosure to power them. I did upgrade the fans for better air flow. The filters I first used, blocked about 50% of the air flow, so higher CFM was helpful. I kicked around the idea of using a 6U to 12U enclosed server rack as an enclosure. More room, maybe add pull out drawers to mount the components. Often come with fans.
This is truly amazing. I can only hope that I can build something like this one day. As a beginner in electronics, I wasn't able to understand why would you want a relay turning the contactor on? Using two push buttons can turn on the 120v contactor coil directly, isnt it? Or maybe I am wrong somewhere?
Switches could control the contactor, but I wanted to be able to control the the contactor with the low voltage from the Mesa card too.
@@joat_mon ahh, it makes sense now. Thanks!
I like your 3d printed mount. It keeps things clean.
Very interesting. Nice work
Hello. Can you make the electrical project available?
What is the code for the Arizona CNC kit?
I don’t know of another drier video that is so packed full of useful information. Thank you for making this. Reminds me of the old UA-cam. You’re a legend
Wow.... my head is spinning. Nice job!😊
What size screw did you use for the axles?
Did you share your files anywhere on like Thingiverse or Grabcad? Very clever designs
Not yet. I've been crazy busy... but it's on my list. Thanks.
I have same motors and mill as you. 12nm on the n34. Working on a similar 4th axis to 'practical renaissance' youtuber's setup. Seig lathe haleadstock. Subscribed.
Damnnn what happened? Was hoping too see it millong some parts.
I had to move across the country and the mill/controller is not assembled at the moment. I have a great deal of preparation (site clean up) to do before I can get it working again. Follow-up videos are on my to-do list, but it may be a while...
What size allen wrench does that damn set screw take. I have millions of them but can't seem to find one that fits down in it. M5 or M6?
Quality stuff! Would you be willing to print off some more for your power supply mounting solution? I just got my G0704 and am sourcing the conversion parts.
Nice job, thanks for sharing! A concern I see is the estop shuts power to the stepper motor power supplies, my z axis would fall down perhaps onto the work in that case. Thanks again for sharing your videos.
Excellent point about the Z-axis falling without power to the motor. It's good for others to see your comment and keep in mind that it could be an issue for their build. My Z-axis doesn't move when power is removed from the mill, so it's not an issue for me. As for my e-stop approach, I use the "pause" function most of the time to stop the mill if I see some issue. I don't use the e-stop unless something major has gone wrong. There are several approaches to e-stop functionality. I set it where the pause function is the way I'll stop the mill most of the time. In my setup, the e-stop is for when I want to stop-everything-right-now. Like there's fire coming out of the controller, or an axis has crashed and I want to kill all power everywhere. If a stepper driver, or power supply is smoking, I want to be able to shut everything off instantly. Others may choose to take a different approach to E-Stop implementation. Or need to, for reasons like a falling Z-axis. On the falling Z-axis... If my Z-axis tended to fall when I removed power, I'd probably make a normally-engaged brake of some kind to stop the Z-axis from moving. Maybe something like... spring tension keeps the brake engaged, and when power is applied a solenoid disengages the brake. Thanks for commenting!
You may want to consider adding a Z brake to that drive. These are normally engaged without power, typically 24V and disengage when energised.
I have the King Canada version of this machine, and this video was very helpful when I needed to remove the table from the base, so that I could break the machine down into smaller parts that I could carry down to my basement workshop. The two leadscrew brackets were definitely hard to remove. I used a mallet to strike a piece of wood, which I placed against the bracket. It took many hits, and some prying, but eventually got them off. I also ended up bending one of the locating pins, which I had to straighten before re-assembly. I don't know if the G0704 is the same, but the 4 locating pins for the brackets have threaded holes in the end, threaded M4.0x0.7. I was wondering if those threaded holes are intended to insert some kind of pin puller? Also, the locating pins seem to have a very slight taper, unless I was measuring wrong.
Good catch on the locating pins having a taper and threaded holes. Thanks for the information. On my machine the lead screw brackets were removed with just solid taps from the small soft mallet shown in the video, so I didn't look very closely at the locating pins. I suppose there's a bit of variation from machine to machine in the tolerances.
I watched the complete series. Great job (also the videos)! You should have way more views. One question; I wonder about the sizing of the power supplies. You use a separate PS for each motor. I was surprised about the low readings on the displays (max 2 amp I guess). Do you think the peak power is much higher? What is the rating of these power supplies and motors? And did you ever considered a shared PS? Again, thank you for taking the time to create this quality content.
Thanks! I don't think the peak current is much higher. The steppers aren't really being driven very hard. The power supplies are variable, up to 48VDC (they actually go to about 50VDC) and 10 amps. The NEMA 34 driver is up to 8.5 amps and up to 110VDC or 80VAC (more on this in a minute). The NEMA 24 drivers are up to 7 amps and 24-50VDC. Having multiple power supplies brings the luxury of having a backup available should one fail since one 10A unit will easily run two stepper drivers. That said if I were to do it over I'd use stepper drivers that will accept AC volts like the NEMA 34 driver (CL86Y). That way I could power the steppers with a step down toroidal transformer in a separate enclosure, opening up space in, and simplifying, the main enclosure. Would probably have to de-tune (lower the peak amps) the CL86Y for the smaller steppers. Since posting the videos, I've also upgraded the cooling fans and replaced the E-Stop connector with a better one.
Thank you for the info
If you have a lathe I bet you could mount the Y axis where the tool post goes then put an end mill in the chuck and hog out the material that way.
Good idea. But, I don't have a lathe... yet. :-)
Get one they are great! Ive just finished an ELS/CNC conversion of my budget lathe and it works really well. I used a controller called Nano ELS and its really good.@@joat_mon
Do you happen to have the 3d print files or where to find them for some of the build? Anything would help!! Great work!
I'll try to get to it sometime this year. I'm swamped with things to do at the moment.
I recently purchased a "cousin" of the Grizzly G0704, the KIng Canada KC-20VS-2. The crate is still in my garage, and I will be partially dismantling it so that I can safely transport it down to my basement by myself. Your detailed disassembly videos are exactly what I need to separate the 265 lb machine into 3 or 4 manageable chunks. I was thinking the table, the headstock, and the column+base. Anyway, your photos and your explanation are really excellent. Thanks so much!
You're welcome. Glad it was a help.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice machine.
Absolutely fantastic video, and one I am recommending to students. I have to ask, what was the holding torque (approx) for the test motors when you demonstrated losing steps? I am surprised that you could cause the larger closed loop motors to lose steps by hand!
Thanks! About the torque, I have no idea. Certainly not very much. I reduced the motor current in software from seven amps down to one, so the motor was greatly de-rated. I reduced the amps for the sole purpose of being able to stop the motor by hand to make the video. I turned the amps back up to 7 for normal operation on the mill.
@@joat_mon That makes a lot of sense! I was thinking that perhaps you had superhuman grip to overcome the low speed torque of those motors.
Great hack! Thanks 🎉
Hello sir, thank you very much for sharing your videos, very well explained. Could you tell me where did you source your stepper motors? if you care to share a link , that'll be great
I bought them a while back, from Amazon. They are no longer available there.
What die you do with the parts you remover i would like to purchase the three screws and nuts for x-y anes
Sorry, I'm keeping them for another project.
Nylon would have been a good material for the gib.
Thanks for the tip.
Thank you SO MUCH for all the work you put into this very detailed explanation. God bless you.
Very nice. With the closed loop stepper motors, no dro scales required? Readouts are provided by the stepper encoder and step caloibrations?
Thanks, Regarding the closed loop steppers... The CNC program (LinuxCNC in this case) generates the DRO output, which is calculated, and indicates where the cutter "should be". If everything is working properly the closed loop stepper has no advantage over an open-loop stepper. It's when something goes wrong that the closed-loop stepper is useful. Too fast of a feed rate, for example, may cause missed steppes, and the closed loop stepper system can be configured to alarm out and stop the mill. I have mine configured so that the mill will stop if the error is greater than 0.002". Servos are better, but closed loop steppers are cheaper. Closed loop steppers... Better than open-loop, not as good as servos. IMO.
@@joat_mon thanks for the explanation.
This is SUPER helpful, thank you for the clear explanation!
hi, you made a really usefull video. Thanks, it helped me a lot
Is it necessary for the power supply to the motor drivers to be switched via contactor? Wouldn't the alarm input to the mesa card already tell the drivers to stop?
That's correct. The alarm input would should/would stop the drivers. Shutting off the power supplies VIA the contactor is redundant and sort of a sledge hammer approach. I did it as a backup in case there's an unforeseen problem in the Mesa card alarm circuit, like a faulty relay or loose wire etc.
I had the same issue finding the driver for the chip to enavle the adapter. This helped me out a lot to do that search! Thanks for the advice!
Great video. Got you a new subscriber.
Update: My total USABLE cross travel is 7.25 inches. It would probably go to close to 7.5 if it weren't for the rear way-cover taking up space.
super useful information,thanks a lot for sharing 👍🙏
Bravo!
What is the model number and brand of those quick connectors between your base and the door?
The white connectors are Molex brand, for14-20 AWG wire. Model - Latch Lock, MLX, 2.13mm D. Part numbers vary depending on the number of pins. I mistakenly said Amphenol connectors in the video. Habit from my aircraft maintenance days.
@@joat_mon B2 engineer?
Would you by chance have a link of the build setup you are using. A lot of folks I have seen do serial builds vs arduino. I think yours is a much more updated build.
I didn't use the Arduino for the CNC build. I only used it to play with the steppers on the bench.
Dear Jack of all trades, my name is Rohan and I'm copying your electronics enclsure for your CNC machine. I have the Australian equivalent to the G0704, which Iis called an Optimum BL20. I'm about ready to start wiring but I was hoping you might be willing to share your 3d print files for the db25 sub connector, two-storey relay board mount and stepper driver mount which is fantastic. I have a friend down the road who has solidworks if that is the format or just a 3d print file foe cura would suffice. Would you be willing, pretty please? Having the wiring panel easily removed is a great idea for future updates. Well done mate. Kind regards, Rohan
I'll probably make the files available eventually, but I'm too busy to do it right now. In the mean time, here's a link ua-cam.com/video/iVi1p40JdZg/v-deo.html to a video I did that shows a pretty good representation of the 3D printed parts you asked about. Your friend with Solidworks should be able to recreate the files you want in no time flat using the images in the video and the components you have that your about to start wiring up. Good luck with your build.
I use a bit of hot glue in such case. Comes off if needed with a drop of IPA
Thanks for the comment. I considered hot glue, but had concerns about removing it. Didn't know about IPA making it easier. Thanks for that bit of wisdom.
Great video, it helps a lot in understanding the 7i76e. This is the best resource for the 7i76e! Thank you
All of your videos are by far the best I’ve seen for G0704 conversion. Excellent content and video quality. Looking fwd to your next ‘lesson’! Ps: I’ve been building my conversion for almost 4 years with DMM servos and the acorn board. I fried the Z drive when I sent 48v to the 5v cable by not remembering I inverted the location of the plugs on the cabinet. Project is on hold for now, but I’m really interested in getting away from Windows computers and learning Linux system one day. Your control cabinet is a work of art...thanks for sharing your expertise!
Thank you very much. I had a pretty good idea what I was getting into with the CNC conversion... but didn't have a clue about the time it would take to produce the videos. Though I don't regret it. Learning DaVinci Resolve on top of LinuxCNC and basic machining keeps me busy. 🤔
Just wanted to see the mill run some G-Code. I'll be working on the limit switches and homing switches now. I want to get them installed before I make chips.
The next video with the G-Code running should be out in less than a week. No chips yet though. I want to put on limit switches before I make chips.
This reminds me of a funny and scary incident I heard regarding a hobbyist and his new CNC mill. He never installed the limit switches on his Z axis because he lost the mounting screws during assembly. He was anxious to take it for a spin, so he bypassed the missing switches. He started testing each axis and didn't realize he inadvertently set the machine for rapids just before testing the Z axis. In a split second, the milling head with the lead screw flew up from the column and punch a hole through his garage ceiling and fell back down on the mill. He was so traumatized he returned the machine at his expense and gave up on machining.
I should be so lucky. No doubt it would save me many $$. I still don't have a lathe, and there's a bunch of tooling on my wish list. 😁 Limit switches are Top of the list for this project. No chips till the limit switches are installed.
love the 3d printed gib idea!
It's still in there... Any port in a storm. I'm developing a whole new respect for plastics. I think it will be good enough to get that saddle milled.