Відео

@@jks3943 have you thought about having Eric service your K1000 so the light meter works? He does great work if you're located in the US.

@@deadshot640 i have. I have a hot foot mount light meter i use. Im sure my camera body needs a good cleaning. Its on my to do list.

@djlafg58 thanks for your comment. Yes, the MZ-S is a unique camera with a lot of nice features.

@randallstewart1224 The additional spring pressures explain a lot of wrinkled shutter curtains in the Canon cameras of the time. I also have a 7S and love the adjustments for different focal lengths, but I don't like the unreliable meter in the 7/7S. The VI T and L are beautiful cameras.

@@robdixon5016 we're lucky to have so many cameras to choose from. It's okay if you don't love my video.

@@JillMackin thank you! I love how you bring your camera to work to shoot on breaks. What a great idea.

@@ElijahBrough agreed and agreed. Thanks for watching.

Agreed about the weight. This camera is a beautiful and intuitive design.

@@eliseshootsfilm well said!

Welp, thanks for watching for three minutes.

@@derekmiller4792 Closer to 1.5

@peterandresen1524 M-series lenses will work in aperture priority when the Super Program is set to auto. The ME Super's meter is more like the LX than the Super Program's meter readout in the viewfinder.

@@deadshot640 thank you!

@@ShutterKnack thank you. I love the FA* 80-200. Would it be too much if I did a review of the Pentax Super Program attached to the F* 250-600?

@atruceforbruce5388 you make a good point. AA batteries are accessible, but they aren't convenient. I'd much rather use a couple CR2 batteries.

@@deadshot640 I've run into forums tho where people are starting to modify both batter packs for the f4 and f5 with some 3d printer help to adapt rechargeable cell batteries you would find in nikon en-El 18a to work with them. 3d files are availible if you know where to look. Anyways great content.

@@Bertzcommodities while the 6c isn't the nicest camera I have, it sure is enjoyable to use. I also have a video on the C330.

The F2 is a tank. Hopefully you can get the meter fixed.

I have on also in perfect condition

Thank you. Yes, it's just as much about the process of creating the photo as it is about the final product.

You're welcome, and great question. I won't recommend the ME because it doesn't have a manual mode. Manual mode is one of my personal requirements for a camera. The ME Super is great and probably a bit more durable than the Super Program. The Super Program has a light in the viewfinder for low-light shooting, and data pins in the mount for electronic aperture control from the body. This means you can use most modern (everything but KAF4 mount) lenses without aperture rings with the Super Program.

@@deadshot640 Thank you very much, you helped a lot.

The Pentax MX is my favorite film camera.

@@deadshot640 I understand you so much). I never tried k2, but appart from MX, my favorite is ES II as well.

Agreed. We are lucky to have so many affordable and accessible options now.

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks, Andy. The F2 is an impressive camera. Good point about the prism and certain flashes getting in the way. I don't like how you can't open the film door with a hot shoe attached because it covers the rewind lever. My concerns aren't about the rabbit ears, but the aperture coupling lever which sits between the ears. My buddy just had to have his F2 finder serviced because the coupling pin wasn't moving correctly.

@@deadshot640 Honestly, I think it's a lot less fragile than it appears. I've never had a failure of the coupling lever in my ten years of Nikon F ownership back in the day or the four F and F2 models that I've owned for the past several years. When they go, they are definitely difficult to repair, so I'd probably just replace the prism as they're so cheap. Love your reviews and videos! Andy

Agreed. Certain cameras just feel right.

You're right. Thanks for identifying the correct mount. I film several videos in one sitting so mistakes can happen. I'm sorry about this.

Thank you! I've had a couple Leicas and they are fantastic, but using the K1000 is a more streamlined process in every way. Loading, rewinding, and unloading film, using the built-in meter, and focusing with the large viewfinder make the K1000 easy to use.

I quite like both cameras, but you're right. I hate how the shutter speed disappears from the viewfinder in manual mode in the OM-2. I prefer the MX for a few reasons, mainly build quality. I need to make a video on my OM-2.

You bring up a lot of very good points. Thanks for your comment. I'd rather use an SLR over a rangefinder any day too. I'd love to try an old Nikon rangefinder too but for the price I'd rather buy a Leica. I have a couple Leicas and I hate loading the film, but other than that they beat the Canon. I also think the Canon 7S is a much better rangefinder than the P, but I haven't finished the 7S video yet and it's not high on the priority list.

@@deadshot640 I just prioritize accuracy in framing and focus over anything else and an slr beats a range finder for accuracy. I’ve had so many prints come out in the darkroom and I said to myself “that is not how I framed it” when I shot with my leicas. I love how they feel and shoot, but they’re simply inaccurate and expensive compared to a Nikon f or f2/3. And as much and no one discusses it, the Nikon f lenses are better than Leicas

This is good to know, thank you. Looking at the design, it looks like it is supposed to operate like you described but the pieces don't move independently on mine so I wasn't sure.

the m series of lenses aren't only 50mm? I have a 28mm 2.8 and a 80-400 4.5 lens both from the m series

@@colinpaterson3915 There is a whole series of M lenses. I used to have some of them, but these days I only have 50mm ones left.

I've had mine for a while too, trying to like it.

Okay, I'm sad to see you go, even though my screen says 3:00. Is that a traffic cone on your head?

I'm sorry to hear about the desilvering and the broken shutter release button. The KX is the same body as the K1000 so you have a good idea on the size of the KX. A lot of people love the KX but I'm not a fan of the focusing screen. The MX is much easier for me to focus and the meter is nice, more like the K1000's center-the-needle compared to the KX's match needle metering. They are both fairly inexpensive so if it's within your budget you could try both of them. You can also have the K1000 serviced, and they can replace the pentaprism.

Yeah, I also contacted a guy here on yt (Sam's Camera Bench) who's currently restoring a K1000 and told me that it's probably best to just go for a new one (because I also don't wanna risk to ruin my current K1000 since it carries all the legacy of all my father's trips). I heard that the MX's focusing isn't the best at wide apertures since it darkens, but I also know that it has interchangeable focusing screens so that's not really a problem (I can still go for a full manual focus just by looking at the subject in the frame, I always pull focus manually when I make videos anyway). I found a couple of MXs on KameraStore (€299) and if I can't really find an alternative at a tad bit lower price I'd probably go for it! Many thanks, greetings from Italy! :D

I completely agree most cameras today feel like plastic toys. It's unfortunate. I do a lot of studio work and when I'm not in the studio I take battery-powered strobes and off-camera flashes on location. Hot shoes are for triggers.

Thank you.

I think you'll like the Kiev 60 a lot more than the Yashicaflex and toy cameras. The shutter sound is amazing and it's a decent camera for the price. It's even better if you got it real cheap.

@@deadshot640 yeah I was lucky to get it real cheap. Oh I love the sound of old cameras, got a Praktica, Minolta srt and a spotmatic and love the sound everytime I take a shot, makes me so happy.

Thank you for the kind words. Those are two great cameras.

I certainly don't mean leever, if that's what you're asking.

Thank you! The camera's manual isn't very clear with the two settings, but states something along the lines of setting the switch down so the green mark appears, then "irradiate bright light (4,000 lux or over)" for a few minutes before using. If the light is "400 lux or over...set the solar lever to the the red mark appear." The manual then states 4,000 lux is equivalent to a 20W bulb and "400 lux is as bright as a room illuminated at night." The camera's power should last at least 10 minutes when removed from light.

That's super cool! Thanks!

This is the Pentax FA* 80-200 f/2.8 lens. I don't use very many zooms as I prefer primes, but this one might be a little magic.

Yeah, I'm excited to shoot another roll soon. You're not wrong, although the viewfinder lights might be my favorite thing about this camera.

I can see why. The New F-1 was my best experience with Canon.

That's a nice trio. I enjoy my triple set (don't forget KX/MX/LX too). I think the MZ-S designers didn't imagine lenses without aperture rings. Because I shoot film so much I only own two lenses without aperture rings. The MZ-S controls aperture from the body much like the Super Program does, in shutter priority or auto modes only. You can use shutter priority to force the camera to use a specific aperture. I love no wasted space on a mode dial, but sometimes it would be convenient to manually control aperture on lenses without rings.

The New F-1 is a great camera. I also have a video review of it. For some, including me, I never stopped using film when digital cameras became available. I love the convenience of digital, but I still enjoy using film more. Younger generations born during the digital era are discovering this too, and that's okay.

Being someone born in the early 2000s, I’m making my way into film because I enjoy having a disconnect from all the crazy technology of the modern era. I enjoy waiting for my pictures. Film forces me to spend more than a few seconds composing a shot because every one counts. If you are looking to get rid of that F1, let me know 😉.

@@Mac-tw3zu If I wanted to get rid of my film cameras I would have done it a long time ago. How can you detach from the digital world when processing films today from developing, editing, print and display are all digital? Don’t kid yourself.

@@butchgo8930 Using analog cameras is fun and even though the processing is digital the film has a special aesthetic. While taking photos, the experience is completely analog. If you don't appreciate such an experience it doesn't mean that others can't enjoy it with valid reasons.

Thank you for the kind words.

I agree. I have always loved how Pentax design leaves unnecessary things out, such as a mode dial or double exposure switch.

The MX is 5mm wider than the ME. Height and depth are the same.

Thanks for your comment. I agree with much of what you have to say. Luckily I've never had issues with shutter re-calibration with my three LX bodies, however I did have the delayed mirror movement issue with one, which was repaired this year. While the LX isn't perfect, it is the only weather-sealed camera of the group, it came with the most viewfinder options (including the largest and smallest magnification), no viewfinder blind is needed for long exposures because of the OTF metering, and the LX has more mechanical shutter speeds with dead batteries. While I have a 50mm f/1.2 lens on my LX, I rarely use it at f/1.2. I don't think I'd ever use f/1 even if it was available except for once to test it. We're lucky to have so many choices in amazing cameras!

@@deadshot640 I had hybrid shutters on 7 cameras for 50 years from ES II, ST901, K2 Black, K2DMD, LX, LXT, FM3A, and that without counting the ones that had only one ore two shutter speeds without the bateries, and I have never ever needed to use this because 2 X SR44 or 2 x LR44 last 10 K actuations on my K2, and not just 1 year like in Pentax manual but even up to 10 years of serious use, even including some long exposures 30 - 90+s. From '95 to 2005 I had only one set of Varta LR 44 in my K2, not even SR44, and I use it a buge lot - even more then LX, SF10, Z1, Z1p, MZ-S combined, and it has battery check with a red LED and I pressed that push button every time before using it, and when finaly it was low - less bright in 2005 the stutter still worked just fine and I always had spares whith me - 2 x SR44 is realy nothing to carry around, I have them in a small translucent Fuji film box. K2 can be used without beteries not just for B and 1/125s, but also 1/250s, 1/500s and 1/1000s, sure only in full stops, not stepless like in AV. Without bateries also works at 1/125s on all longer settings up to 8s, but from 1/125s to 1/1000s works as it should with faster exposure. I never needed this. I use it mostly in AV, and full manual with bateries only with a manual flash - rare because Pentax had autorobo also from '75, and also rare when I need more then 2 EV exposure compensation. DMD has AE-L ( ML) so no need for full M other then for full manual flash. SF10 has even spot and AE-L, and also Z1, Z1p, MZ-S and sure *istD DSLR. Z20 is a good reliable camera that does't have AE-L, it has exp. comp. button insted on the back...

Regarding fast lenses, my K2 black had kit SMC 55 f1.8 and not the SMC 50 f1.2 as on the manual cover, and that was good because that lens has chromatic aberations. smc A 50 f1.2 is better in this regard. My DMD was body only but I have all the good Pentax lenses from 15 to 300 from K to FA. My SF10 had smc F 50 f1.7 and that one get to be the kit also on my Z1, Z1p and MZ-S even though smc F 35-70 f3.5-4.5, smc F 28-80 f3.5-4.5 and smc FA* 28-80 f2.8 are pretty good. My MZ-S had kit FA 24-90 f3.5-4.5 made in TW my only non MIJ Pentax lens, and I hate it, even if I still have it...cold rendering combined with exaggerated contrast that eat the shadows details and drowns them in black ink like poured from above, but also prone to flare even with the stupid expensive and rare dedicated lens hood, flares with a huge loss of contrast not 100% total damage like Canon but over 90%...and that when smc F 28-80 f3.5-4.5 stoped down just one full stop has zero loss of contrast with brigh sun in the frame even though it has 12 lens elements. And FA 24-90 IF also has focus focal breathing, plastic feeling, no zoom dampening, etc. Regarding f 1.0, Canon EF 50 f1.0 from the eos 1 old era, early '90s, is pretty nice and I like it. EF 50 f1.4 is slso nice - well outside of being prone to flare like most Canon lenses...pretty hard to accept for a pentaxist used to SMC from the '70s. I don't like the Canon 50 and 85 f1.2. EF 85 f1.4 that was expected 30 years like something for the Pentax land is OKish. K 85 f1.8 OK, A* 85 f1.4 very good. M 100 f2.8 is much better then I expected but I would like a 90 f1.7. FA* 85 f1.4 nope - very dull grey broken bokeh. DFA 85 f1.4 also nope, harsh bokeh from 1.5m that is the most used distance for it, plus wey to big, heavy and expensive but I don't like it anywey. EF 85 f1.8 and EF 100 f2 non macro have huge pink background bokeh chromatic aberation plus unreliable AF.

Good points, loo. So did Pentax intentionally leave AE-L off the LX, or was it an oversight as some suggest? My FA* 85 looks great on film, but I much prefer the FA Limited lenses.

The beauty is that there are so many cameras to choose from that one doesn’t have to tick EVERY box. Go easy on the LX 🤣 it’s an amazing little camera. Quirks and all