Відео

You can get them from Tandy, Buckleguy or other places, just search for brass rivets and you'll find a bunch of places that sell them. You can also use Chicago screws instead of rivets.

You can find them on the website.

Normally 3 to 4 oz.

Normally 3-4 oz.

It's just a matter of time/cost/price. Using the machine is fast and the stitches (and glue) hold very well. If you are making a special wallet or want to highlight the stitching you can easily hand sew the wallet with some really nice thread.

No, I will dye it and condition/hot stuff it all at the same time. That keeps the leather from getting stiff after dying and drying.

It’s a belt loop so you can put it on without having to take the belt off.

@@chetton93 Yes, some people have used it for that. It also holds the leather tight on the back so you can store some bills in there. Without it you need to make sure the wallet is full to keep the bills tight.

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Thank you. The leather on the back can hold paper money. Yes, I have had one person connect it to a belt.

Thank you.

It’s just a matter of time. I don’t have time to script them all out and talk. For now I’m showing the builds but not talking or explaining.

Thanks!

I’ve tried a ton of different weights and leathers. Most of the wallets I make of this design are 3-4oz Hermann Oak. The thickness and temper of the leather work very well for the wallet. The turquoise one is Italian leather and that is 4-5oz but the leather is a lighter temper. So somewhere around that weight.

For this wallet I do not skive the edges because it would make them too thin. There is a max of three layers but mostly there are only two layers in the thickness. Because of the design the bulk of the wallet thickness is because of the cards that are put into it.

How foolish of you

I tried many things. This brand is the best!

It is the “special sauce” for all of my recipes!

Part for looks and part to make the bend in the leather easier/more natural.

Part for looks, part to make the strap bend a bit easier/be less stiff.

They are available :-)

Thanks! I like doing the vids I just have to find/make the time.

It is available on my UA-cam home page along with my website link. I will consider adding it to my videos as well. I’m also looking into international shipping options from my website. I think this should be possible now with some of the recent updates.

I haven’t tried food color. I suspect that it might not be permanent. The dyes are fairly cheap so I’ve mostly used them. However you can use things like coffee and other substances to stain leather. There are some videos out there that show you how.

Thanks, I love learning new things.

Gracias!

Thanks, I try to “Hot Stuff” all of the plain veg tan leather that I use. It helps to disperse and deepen the dye color and adds back into the leather oils and waxes that will keep it going for quite awhile.

Thanks! The mustard bottle was revolutionary for me.

@@101acresleather Sorry, I'm new to this world. May I ask what are you talking about? Is that bottle at the begining? And was just dyeing? Sorry for the ignorance and thanks. The end result was ridiculously professional. Amazing.

@@justoalejandrogonzalez5097 I use two types of contact cement. Water based cement is easy to work with but the solvent based cement is difficult to work with. One big problem with the solvent cement is how to best apply it to the leather. If you put the cement into the mustard bottle it is a good solution. The bottle does not react with the solvent, you can keep the glue thinned easily and it makes putting the glue onto the material very easy. The bottle at the beginning is the leather stain, the second bottle is the leather oil and the third paste is a mix of oils and waxes. I hope this helps.

@@mavrikmavrik3032 Wow. SO much to learn. Yes, it does. Much appreciated.