Відео

Pouch cells like these have high amp discharge. These ones are around 20C, so like 100A each. They have a pretty high cycle rating as well. The downside is that they don't have as much capacity in amp hours relative to their size and weight. They are a good choice for drag racing, not as good for long-range cruising. These also need compression and a pretty stout battery box when assembling since they are more fragile.

Hey, sorry for the late reply. I got these cells as salvage packs from a technology recycling scrap yard. Most of my builds I use reclaimed cells for. I'm currently building a 96v 100Ah pack for a Ducati using cells reclaimed from a chevy volt EV battery. I also just recently got a bunch of cells out of dodge ram eTorque modules from the same scrap yard. It takes some digging to find the deals, but they are out there. The cells I used for the battery in this video retail for $23 each, so the cost would have been huge had I not been able to find them at scrap prices.

@@ebikebuilds4000 I'm very interested in locating a place like that near me. How do you find them ? I searched for " technology recycling scrap yard" and nothing showed up on google maps or local results. Thanks!

There's a very good reason for that. They destroy themselves. The control board fails often, especially when using the leads due to back feed when the magnetic field collapses after a weld. No matter the model number, if you see a similar looking machine it's the same design with the same problems. Buy a super capacitor machine you'll be happy.

I like them both, just for different reasons. There is more flexibility for pack shape with cylindrical cells, and they tend to be sturdier. The tradeoff is you have to spot weld them together and they take a long time to assemble. Pouch cells assemble quickly. You have to have compression and a strong protective case for them. They are a bit more fragile.

My experience with other welders is limited, but I hear good things about the Glitter welders. I just picked up a kweld to try and do some heavier connections.

​​@@ebikebuilds4000does the kWeld do pure nickel 0.2mm with 0.1mm copper sheet? like with a LiPo? i've got one on order which will probly arrive in a few days to replace my cheaper Sequre SQ-SW2 (it wasn't really good enough for consistent 0.2mm welds, plus consistency is hard to get as it's just time based)

@BH4x0r I just started using mine. It's doing the .1mm nickel and .1mm copper just fine, way better than the Sunkko I used here. I'm powering it with 4 chevy volt cells in series. If I wanted to push it higher, I would do 4s 2p of these cells, and some heavier wires for the welder.

@@ebikebuilds4000 didn't see the first reply.. I ended up getting the glitter 811A. It's actually way too powerful. I tested 0.1, 0.15, and 0.2mm on some some random cells I had laying around. At 50% power the 811A blows a hole through the copper AND blows a hole into the cell and liquid starts oozing out of the cell. Incase you or anyone on the future is wondering, the sweet spot seems to be : Bare copper 0.10 - 15% power 0.15 - 20% power 0.20 - 25% power Second layer of pure copper on top of pure copper 0.10 - 30% 0.15 - 40% 0.20 - 45% Sandwich 0.2 nickle over copper 0.10 - 15% 0.15 - 20% 0.20- 25% Pure nickel 0.20 10%

@@jstagzsr thats pretty insane, so it has no issues doing copper 0.4mm thick at 45%? holy...

Discharge is a combination of the individual cell characteristics, number of cells in parallel, the electrical connection between them, the rating of the BMS, and the discharge wires and connectors. So if you have cells rated for 15A and you want 100A discharge, you need at least 7 cells in parallel. The series connections between each P-group need to be able to handle 100A as well. The copper does that fine. Your BMS has to be rated for 100A continuous or better, and you probably want at least 6ga discharge wires and xt90 or qs8 connections for plugging it in.

@@ebikebuilds4000 This reply along with watching a few other build videos of yours really made it click in my head thank you! Will pure nickel strip be able to carry that amount of amperage? Or will I need copper

@djmedia01 pure nickel strip should be fine so long as you series connect each cell. The series connections carry the full current of the pack, so they need to be robust.

@@ebikebuilds4000 Thank you so much for the info. Greatly helped everything click together for me.

What thickness copper sheeting u are using?

Thanks! Yes, it was an Apollo rfz. The 2 main mounts of the qs138 match up with the engine mounts on the bike perfect. The foot peg plate did not and required some cutting and welding. I also had to make an additional frame piece to support the battery and case. I didn't video much of it but I have a lot of pictures. I will say it came out great and really rips!

I'm not really sure. I would have to figure out the amp draw on my system at 30mph. My best guess is it would draw somewhere around 30-50 amps at flat cruising speed, so around 40 miles. I use the bike for woods, trails, and hill climbs, so my power usage is all over the place.

Yes, it's actually the cheaper nickel plated steel. Normally that is less desired as a stand alone connection because of the higher resistance, but in this application, it's the copper that carries the current during use, so the higher resistance of the nickel/steel makes for better welds.

Thanks! I'm seeing a lot less voltage sag than my previous battery. I think it's partly the higher capacity, and also the heavier discharge wires. Dimensions with the rubber shrink wrap are: 9.5" long, 6" wide, 9" tall American 240mm long, 150mm wide, 230mm tall Everyone else.

@@ebikebuilds4000 what size heat skrink did you buy? 300mm?

@sandernikolajvintherpeters3842 it was 290mm from an ebay seller. Unfortunately at last check, it's out of stock there.

@@ebikebuilds4000 Hard to find one for a big pack.. Im still looking for a 21s15p pack

.1mm nickel steel is what you really need for this machine to work. Anything thicker and it won't penetrate enough.

Few months later update: Indeed nickel plated steel is the way to go for welding this copper sandwich. It works brilliantly and the welds are quite strong, you need pliers to pry them off and it rips the ribbon apart. Btw, I don't have a fancy and expensive spotwelder like a Kweld, I got this results with a basic DIY microwave oven transformer and AliExpress controller.

.1mm copper, .1mm nickel plated steel