Відео

Happy to help!! :)

Any of our bleed kits for Tektro brakes are compatible with the HD-E350 model!

Yes, it's the same process! Reach out if you have any more questions.

From our research, Radius brakes need a threaded adapter at the caliper. It seems like the size that's needed are the M6 adapters found in Tektro bleed kits, and we have a tutorial for Tektro brakes on our channel that may give you a better idea of what that caliper bleed port looks like if you're having trouble finding it. Hope that helps, and feel free to reach out if you have any additional questions!

@@bleedzonekitsI have watched several videos on how to bleed your bike breaks and i’ve looked all around the break caliper and there is no bleed nipple. is it still possible to do a full fluid change without the nipple?

So there won't be a bleed nipple, but there is still a bleed port. That's where you would put the threaded adapter. Here is our Tektro bleed tutorial. ua-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/v-deo.html It should provide some clarity, but if not, we are happy to help!

Great question! Fully pushing back the pistons and then inserting the block to keep them in place will ensure that the proper amount of brake fluid is in the system both during and after the bleed process. If you overfill the system by not using a bleed block to push back the pistons, that could lead to the brake pads not fully retracting, which would cause them to rub the rotor. Overfilling can also prevent the pistons from getting pushed back after the bleed, which can lead to difficulty when installing new brake pads due to the insufficient space from the extra fluid. Hope this helps, and let us know if you have any other questions :)

Thank you for commenting!! Happy riding!!

We’re sorry for the confusion. We reviewed the bleed kit listing that’s linked in this UA-cam tutorial, and it makes no mention of Zoom brakes. While we don’t have a Zoom tutorial just yet, bleeding your Zoom brakes should be very similar to [bleeding Tektro brakes](ua-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/v-deo.html) OR our [Tektro tutorial video](ua-cam.com/video/5F3PXnyhF5U/v-deo.html) would mostly closely match the bleed process for Zoom hydraulic brakes. However, with you having an older Shimano style reservoir, I can see why you choose this video. I am a bit confused and would need some clarity to give you a more accurate answer. Did you purchase a kit specifically made for Zoom brakes? Or did you need to purchase one for Zoom brakes specifically (we do have one available)? We are happy to help in any of your bleeding needs!

@@bleedzonekits I had 2 bleed kits already, but I did not know the correct procedure for my Zoom brakes and obviously wasn't having any luck up top without removing the cover. So I ordered a 3rd kit, your Zoom brakes bleed kit. I was more frustrated that the seller of the brakes included no info despite many reviews stating that they couldn't bleed the brakes. I did return your kit, but there wasn't any issue, it's just that I didn't need it, but I didn't know that. I had more than I needed with the first two kits. I had been working on my car all week and was without transportation trying to bleed the brakes on my bike so I could get parts for the car.

@@BigFarm_ah365 Try a gravity flush/bleed. No kit needed. Maybe an empty bottle to catch the fluid at the bottom. Just have to keep topping it up at the reservoir if you don't have a dedicated port of bleeding at the reservoir.

You'll do great!! Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or concerns :)

@@bleedzonekits oh noes! I have wrong screws :/ I have shimano kit and definitely not compatible with my tektro, nevermind, ordered the universal set :)

Whoa, that was a rollercoaster! Glad to hear you figured it out!!

@@bleedzonekits i managed to do it with a borrowed kit :) brakes perfect now!! thanks for the hints, we had finally a careless ride with my daughter yesterday, no more spongy brakes :) well, 4000 km driven and 3rd set of brake pads.. lots of bubbles there were :)

1. You're awesome - Great tip to remember!! 2. Yes, SO important to make sure the syringe is free of air!! Thanks for watching!! :)

You can have the lever and caliper leveled or angled! No matter how they are positioned relative to each other, the oil would stay in the hydraulic system because opening the caliper bleed port is comparable to the scenario of covering one end of a straw with your finger and the liquid inside holding because of the greater air pressure under the straw. When opening the lever bleed port you would want to make sure that it is leveled, but otherwise, the oil also wouldn't leak when opening the port because the lever is at a higher point.

So glad this video helped you!! :)

Happy to help!!

Hey there!! Thanks for commenting!! It sounds like you may have bought the wrong kit. You'll need one that has adapters. Here are some of the ones we sell. Please reach out if you have anymore questions!! :) Pro Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08F29P2MG Master Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08CSYBXDJ Standard Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08F147Z36 Basic Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08DLFM4JL

Thanks for watching :)

Are you having issues with oil coming out? Removing the syringe from the lever first and closing the bleed port may help reduce oil leakage. However, even in our video removing the fitting at the caliper first with the lever slightly higher than the caliper had minimal oil leakage. Essentially, when the bleed port at the lever is closed first, it’s comparable to covering one end of a straw with your finger and the water holding because of the greater air pressure under the straw. We are starting the clean up process at 03:26, so no, the oil shouldn't be coming out again except for maybe some slight leakage. Please reach out if you have any further questions!!

It all depends on a person’s preference. We have plenty of affordable kits with only the basics you need or kits with the tools that you buy once and keep to reuse for all your bleeding needs 😊

Woohoo - thanks for the great feedback!! Happy riding!! :)

@@bleedzonekits You're welcome 👍!

We're sorry to hear it got a little messy, but stoked you were able to fix your brakes! <3 A helpful tip could be trying to level the caliper and lever on a bike stand to possibly reduce the mess!

We knew you could do it! :)

Hey there - sorry to hear our bleed process isn’t working out for you! I don’t think it’s your brake lines, as you can see the oil rise when you are applying pressure to the lever. I would suggest try pushing oil out through the syringe/tubing while it isn't connected to the bleed port. If oil is coming out then it’s most likely your caliper that is needing replaced.

@@bleedzonekits thanks for your advice. I had to screw the lever completlely back, then the channel was open 👍

No problem - happy to help!! :)

Thanks for the feedback!

If The Bleed doesn't work, Your Hydro Might need a Maintenance. The Internals of your Lever might had build Up Inside and Need Proper Lubrication, well might as well as the Caliper.

Yes, the bleed block will work but not well. We have had some customers say they used a rubber band or the velcro fasteners included in the kit to help keep the block in place. At the moment we do not have a bleed block designed specifically for 4 piston brakes.

Thanks for your insight! With our method, there shouldn’t be any air left in your system, but we’re glad that your brakes are working well for you.

Thank you for your question. You will need to fill only one syringe (at the caliper) with the oil to push the fluid through the system.

Thanks for your feedback, and we’re sorry to hear you still have air in your brakes! Could you clarify what steps are missing? Our bleed process is designed to remove all the air by pushing new fluid through the brake system, and we and many other viewers have had no issues with the bleed process in our tutorial.

So sorry to hear that you were having trouble with our tutorial! Yes, there is a syringe attached to the tubing at the brake lever that acts as a kind of funnel, and you do drain the old fluid out by pushing new fluid through the brake system. If your brakes have been bled correctly and they’re still not working, you could have a leak in your system. Even the smallest leak in your brakes will allow air to enter the lines and negatively affect your brake performance. Common leak-prone areas in the system include the caliper from damaged seals and the hydraulic fluid lines often from corrosion. You might want to check the fittings at the ends of the brake line and the master cylinder cap screws as well. Another issue could be that your brake pads are worn out. If you bleed your brakes again, put the brake pad, all the caliper parts, and the wheel back without removing the funnel, and then pump the lever until it’s firm. When the brake pads are worn out, you might need extra fluid and often bubbles could be trapped at the lever. Unfortunately, due to the many Tektro brake models, we were not able to cover all the methods of removing the brake pads in one video, but we’re glad you were able to get instructions from your brake manufacturer. If you’re still having issues, definitely let us know and we’ll work to figure this out with you.

Okay :)

It’s optional, but if you feel resistance when you’re pushing fluid from the caliper, pulling slightly on the syringe at the lever could help relieve some pressure from the system!

We're glad our video is clear! We appreciate you!! :)

So glad you enjoyed our video! Thanks for commenting!!

Our bleed block is designed to fit all mountain bike brake calipers, but we are so sorry to hear that it didn't work for you! Was the bleed block too small or too large? If you can message us directly at support@bleedzone.com, we can try to troubleshoot for you.

Thank you for your kind words! We are very thankful this video was able to help you make a decision on purchasing our kit. Happy riding!

Thanks for your feedback! We really appreciate it! We have heard of the suggestion to remove the caliper from the frame and to let it dangle vertically in order to create a clean, straightforward path for air bubbles to travel upward. If you have a bike stand, you can angle your bike as well to accomplish that without having to remove your caliper from the frame. In our experience, we haven’t found that to be an essential part of the process for a good bleed. The process of pushing fluid through the line is enough to flush out any bubbles along with the position of the caliper at the lowest part of the system allowing bubbles to rise to the surface. However, that’s definitely a useful tip to consider!!

At the moment, we don't list the funnel adapter separately, but if you contact us directly at support@bleedzone.com, we will be able to sell you one!

Thank you! That means a lot!

There are pros and cons to both. But, I guess the manufacture went with the split pin instead of the bolt. Some concerns with bolts are the possibility for it to strip the thread and caliper.

Yeah, bleeding your brakes should be straight forward as long as you have clear instructions and it keeps getting easier the more times you do it!

There are two syringes for this kit. One for use at the lever and the other at the caliper.

Thanks for your comment and glad to hear you got your brakes working again! The concern, however, with simply adding oil from above and pumping the lever is that while you might successfully remove some air bubbles, fluid gets dirty and does break down over time, which is why you might need to drain the whole system and put in fresh fluid depending on the condition of your brakes. If you haven't bled your brakes in a long time or at all and if you ride frequently, your brakes may need a full bleed. Over time, dirt or air contaminate the system, both of which reduce brake performance. The reason why you wouldn’t want contaminated oil is because dirt changes the viscosity of the fluid and hurts the fluid’s ability to dissipate heat, possibly even damaging the brake itself.

We would recommend using a 7mm box end wrench, which you can find in any hardware store! However, you can use other tools at your own risk like pliers. Some people have used duct tape as well, but the wrench is really the most convenient and safest way to open your bleed port.

If you don’t have a bike stand, your best option would be to prop your bike against a wall. It’s not as convenient to bleed without a stand, but you can definitely still get the job done!

We're sorry to hear you're having trouble!! The funnel included in our kit has the same thread size as the SHIMANO funnel. Our guess is that you have either road or gravel brakes, which would need an additional funnel adapter, but feel free to reach out directly to our support email for further assistance.

What lever do you own??

If you’ve replaced everything except for the brake caliper, the issue might be your brake caliper leaking air, which is a possibility if it has damaged seals. So sorry to hear you’ve been having all this difficulty!! But you may need to replace more parts if bleeding your brakes hasn’t worked for you.

The purpose of the bleed block is to prevent the pistons in your brake caliper from moving outwards during the bleed process, so if you have something else that’s hard and fits, it should work fine as a substitute. While you could bleed your brakes with the pads in place, it's best to remove them in order to avoid oil contamination. If the oil gets on the rotor, you can easily clean it with alcohol, but oil on the brake pads causes them to squeak, and since oil tends to soak into the pads, it's extremely difficult to wash out. At that point, riders often end up having to replace the pads. Hope that helps, and let us know if you have any other questions!

It seems to me that if you don't retract the pistons, you're also leaving an unnecessary volume of old fluid in the system, which would contaminate the new oil. Standard procedure does seem to be to remove the pads and push the pistons all the way out first. (BTW, the terminology there always confuses me: for the piston, is "out" toward the rotor or away from it?) And you certainly want to avoid getting oil on the pads, as mentioned.

Yes, that's completely right! Pushing the pistons all the way out (away from the rotor) and then inserting the bleed block will ensure the proper amount of fluid in the system after the bleed. Otherwise, overfilling the system by not pushing the pistons all the way back with a block could lead to the brake pads not fully retracting, which would cause them to rub the rotor. Extra fluid can also lead to difficulty when installing new brake pads due to the insufficient space.

Yes, you could use generic mineral oil but at your own risk. While we don’t know the exact specifics on the mineral oil used in Magura brakes, most of these brake manufacturers claim to use mineral oil with a specific formulation for the proper boiling point and viscosity. Otherwise, your brakes may overheat if you’re riding hard and aggressively or you may have issues with lever engagement if the viscosity is not right.

We sell a few different kits for Tektro brakes. If you purchased from us, you may have purchased a Tektro bleed kit that has a funnel, which should be bled like Shimano brakes: ua-cam.com/video/UhyEb69bCiY/v-deo.html. However, if that's not the case and you received an incomplete kit, we can definitely ship you the missing syringe!

Yes, they're both mineral oil so they should be interchangeable!

Awesome, so glad to hear that 👌👌

Glad it was helpful!

Aw, thank you! 😊