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The styling of this particular rifle is a little later than Kings Mountain. Kings Mountain battle was, I believe, in 1780. This rifle is styled more in the 1815-1830 timeframe. Military arms were typically smooth bore muskets like the Brown Bess and Charleville. Any rifles used at Kings Mountain would most likely have been heavier stocked, larger caliber like a A Virginia Rifle or like the one on my channel titled: "History Re-created: Iron Mounted Flintlock Longrifle. Pennsylvania - Kentucky style." I'm not an expert in the Rev War battles like Kings Mountain; however, given time frame, the one mentioned above would be closer to the type that may have been used. Hope this helps.

The miracle of telephoto lenses. :)

@@gregwilsonnaturephotography Thanks Greg.

Thank you

happy to help. For wood finishing, I sand and whisker down to about 320 grit. On particularly fuzzy maple, I will go to 400 grit. I "whisker" the stock by wetting it down between sanding grits. Since the stain I use is alcohol based, I whisker with rubbing alcohol (nothing special, just the cheapest stuff you can get at the grocery store). Actually it does 2 things, 1) raises the grain so your next grit of sandpaper can ut the fuzzy ends off, and 2) alcohol is a decent degreaser and will help remove some of your fingerprints from the wood which could interfere with the final finish. For stain, I use alcohol based stain (leather dye). I put a base coat of a reddish brown. If it looks too red (some wood will absorb stain differently than others even of the same species), being alcohol based, I can wet a cloth with rubbing alcohol and wipe over the stock. As long as the stain hasn't set for an hour or so, the alcohol soaked cloth will remove some of it from the wood, do this until the color is desired. On top of the reddish brown I put a golden brown alcohol based stain. I build up coats until it looks like I want. Go about 1 shade darker than you want the final since the oil finish will lift some stain so I always go a little darker than I want the final. For top finish I use, don't laugh, Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It's not really tung oil (although a bottle of tung oil may have been located somewhere in the factory as it was made) but it is an oil based finish with a touch of hardener. It provides a reasonably durable finish that ages well. I have a couple flintlocks I built 30 years ago and have received a lot of use. The finish has worn to a dull sheen, some areas around wrist and forearm have worn almost through. They look just like a 30 year flintlock should look. Stain I use is Homer Dangler's Stain that I get from Pecatonica River Longrifle Supply. However, just about any alcohol based aniline dye will give the same results. Hope this helps.

@@JeffandLesliethank you very much for your generosity of knowledge!

@@JeffandLeslieI now feel like I have a good game plan for my first flintlock build.

@@RNSOutdoors best wishes on the build. Hope you will put up some photos of it when you're done.

Will do.

The barrel is 42" long (106.6 cm) and is .50 caliber (12.7mm). Hope this helps.

Thank you

Thanks my friend. How are you doing? you can send private message or over on FB, Just checking in with you.

thank you for watching.

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you Roy.

Thanks Gustavo. We captured images of 3 or 4 of them diving that day. This is a compilation of several attempts.

Looks fun! Keeping up with an Osprey can be tough... but you captured some action for sure! Greg

@@gregwilsonnaturephotography Thanks Greg. Rest assured, I missed far more than I got.

@@freddobbs4437 thank you. This one is not for sale. You can see lots of them at the Contemporary Longrifles Association show and at Friendship during the National Championships.

Thank you

Thank you and hello from hot humid beautiful Ohio in USA. I'm glad you enjoyed the photos and video

@@selectiveimagery I find something interesting in all our seasons but at the end of one season, I am looking forward to the next. Mid September is nice around here. We have had a banner year for bullfrogs and green frogs. They seem to be everywhere.

Thank you

@@JeffandLeslie you bring beauty into my life and hardly ever talk about gear. Thank you sir 😉

@@longrider9551 Thank you. I like gear as much as the next person but I figure there are plenty of places to talk about it. I just prefer to show what can be accomplished with gear. I’m glad you like the channel and the material Leslie and I put out. That makes me happy.

Gustavo, thanks. Actually, it wasn't munching. This was at a local park and the pathway was crushed stone. What sounded like munching was really people walking along behind me. At least they realized I was shooting video and were not talking as they walked by. Other than my voice-overs, all the sounds in the video were captured wit the video (including the very noisy blue jay at the end of the caterpillar segment).

Thank you. Sometimes it takes a little while for UA-cam to finish processing videos, especially 4k videos. Probably was just processing. Thank you for liking it.

Thank you for such kind words. Much appreciated.

Thank you

Thank you

thank you!

Thank you. I had planned to put this up next week but it really seemed like it was needed now. We all need to be reminded from time to time there are still beautiful things out there if we look.

@@JeffandLeslie Photography is a great escape when it seems everything around us is a bit stressful to say the least and like I said your timing was perfect.

@@selectiveimagery thanks Jeffrey.

Thank you. She and her fawn brought joy to my heart. I was hoping others could get some joy too.

Thank you. I think you need a break from work. You have my permission. :)

thank. you

I always suggest the person contact the company who manufactured the barrel for guidance on maximum charges. I do the wood work and file work on the recreation of history but the barrel manufacturer can give more accurate guidance. I list the barrel maker in the description. I believe this one was Rice Barrel Company and is A weight 36 cal. Hope this helps.

@@JeffandLeslie many thanks sir

@@KKHummel you are welcome

I did get a few stills. I was so intrigued watching them, I almost forgot to shoot video. Watching them flip over rocks to catch whatever was under there (probably crayfish) was fun. I have not had the misfortune to run into one overly aggressive. I have seen some around campgrounds that will jump right up on the picnic table while we were eating. Usually a firm voice telling them to move and a wave of hands will send them scurrying away. However, you are not the firsts person I know who has encountered aggressive or overly assertive ones

Gustavo, I'm glad you liked it. This was about 30 minutes after sunrise. I figured they were foraging their way back to wherever they planned to rest for the day. We were hoping to get some beavers but the raccoon family was pretty darn cute.

Thank you Gustavo.

Thank you

Thank you

thanks

Thank you

thank you

thank you. 36 and 32 are favorites of mine.

First thank you for watching. I will try to answer your questions in order: 1) Yes I draw filed the barrel and then sanded with 220 and 400 grit wet/dry paper soaked in oil. I cold blued it and carded the bluing off using 600 grit oil soaked paper until I had the color I like. I did the same for the lock. 2) I did not buff it as that ruins the lines. I used files and oil soaked wet/dry paper wrapped around files. I polished the inside lock plate with honing stones as well as the bolster where it meets the barrel to ensure as flat of a surface as I can get with hand tools, files and stones. I finished the outside of the lock plate the same way 3) that is always a concern. Before I inlet the lock plate, I mark the lock plate side where the bottom of the barrel channel is. I then mark where the bottom of the ramrod hole is (I drill a very small hole through the web at the bottom of the barrel channel and use a depth gauge (an old caliper with the plunger ground down to about 1/16" diameter). I transfer these measurements to the outside of the stock. When I position the lock, I ensure the "nose" of the lock will line up between the two lines. If I measured right and drilled straight, the lock bolt will go through the web and neither interfere with the barrel channel or the ramrod hole. I mount the parts in a drill press vice and drill through with my drill press to tackle the "drill straight" issue. In 30 some rifles I've built, I've had maybe 2 where the lock bolt was slightly in the ramrod channel. It's pretty easy to mark the screw and then file a small notch in it for clearance or if it is barely in there just taper the ramrod a little. Mostly, though, if one measures accurately, it's not a problem. Hope this helps.

thank you

Thank you Gustavo. It takes approximately 100 hours from start to finish. The flint is chipped (knapped) to form a sharp edge. The steel striker (Frizzen) is heat treated to harden it so that it will make a spark. In the photos and while I'm building one, I use a block of wood instead of a flint during function testing and building since it has to be cycled many times. Flints are expensive (2 to 3 dollars each) and no need to break one or use them up in function testing so a block of wood allows me to be sure all the parts are moving freely and working properly. Usually the frizzen is already heat treated when you get them but sometimes not. The process is to use a torch to heat it cherry red and quench it in oil. The heating and quenching changes the crystal structures of the steel. Once hardened that way they are brittle like glass. Then they have to be heat cycled again to about 600 degrees or so to take some of the brittleness out. Lots of methods, one way is to heat it slowly with a torch to a straw color and let it cool slowly. Another way is to melt a pot of lead, float the steel on the molten lead (steel floats on top of the melted lead) and let it cool slowly. Lead melts at about 600 degrees plus or minus. I've used both methods and can't tell the difference in the end result.

Thanks Jeffrey.

Thank you

Mark - sure. The trigger guard is a Carolina guard from Muzzleloader Builder's Supply. I altered the "pinky hook" on it to make it less pronounced. The butt plate is a heavily modified Bonowitz from Pecatonica River Longrifle Supply. the Bonowitz has facets on top which I rounded off, I heated it up and squeezed it in the vice to take some of the curve out since I wanted a fairly flat profile to the butt stock. The toe plate is from a piece of sheet steel I had laying around. The nose cap is just a basic steel nose cap to fit the barrel. I believe it is 1.5". Thimbles are just round steel thimbles to fit a 5/16" ramrod. Lock is from Buck Ridge Flintlocks. Triggers are the small set from Davis (I think, I have several sets of triggers in the shop and I just picked a set that fit the trigger guard I wanted to use. They may have been from Buck Ridge or someone else but I think I remember them being Davis). The side plate I made from some sheet steel about 3/32" thick (just stuff I had in the shop). The pattern was copied from an original Appalachian rifle that was in the collection of the man who taught me how to build rifles (he died about 25 years ago, still miss him). Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info…very nice rifle….just ordered a38 inch .36 swamped barrel from colerain…wanted to build something along those lines…

@@marknatale1617 38" swamp 36 cal rifle leaves you with a whole lot of options. Something like this one (it was a 42" Rice A-weight Swamp) but 38 would work. You could go something in the Isaac Haines kind of style. I built a Bucks County a few years back with a 50 cal 38" straight (7/8") barrel that was a sweet handling gun. Deer Hunter's delight for sure. The owner has taken several deer with it. Good luck with your build. Hope it goes well and please do share pics with us when you get it together.

I have built two Chambers kits….an Isaac Haines .54 38 inch C weight Rice that is my elk rifle, handles very well; currently finishing a Little Fella (Beck) rifle .50 34 inch rice swamped….wanted a light rifle for hunting javelina and coues deer…comes in at 6 lbs 10 ounces….next build will be a .36 smallbore from a blank with barrel inletted/ramrod hole drilled. Like the looks of yours. Want to stay away from heavily curved butt. Thanks for all the feedback.

@@marknatale1617 Thanks for the kind compliments. I've built 7 or 8 with the deeply curved butt plates. I would like to say, piece of cake, no worries. Honestly, they are a pain. Additionally, I do not find them overly comfortable to shoot offhand. Shooting over the log or in any prone position they are much more comfortable than offhand. Many of the Appalachian rifles with the deeply crescent butt plates were indeed over the log target rifles back in the old times and when you lay down and put the barrel on a big chunk of wood, they become quite comfortable to shoot. However, I don't like them for off hand or for hunting rifles.

Many thanks!

Thanks. She (I think female) was a pretty decent sized one. A little over 4 feet long. Fortunately the rat snakes are not venomous and totally harmless to humans. A small rodent would have a very bad day if it came across this one but they are totally uninterested in us.

Thank you. I've been out of town, sorry about the late response.

Thank you. That was me just fooling around on the guitar. The slow motion setting on my camera does not record sound so I thought something soft in the background would be better than silence or me babbling on talking about something.

Thanks. I was playing with the SA (spherical aberration) control on the Canon RF 105mm Macro lens. I couldn't see a lot of difference with it in neutral, all the way plus or all the way minus. There was difference but it was very subtle. Unfortunately, I don't remember which sequence was shot with which setting. haha, getting old, that's my story and I'm sticking with it.