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Robert's Smorgasbord
Приєднався 27 січ 2017
An eclectic collection of stuff I'm interested in.
Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer & Arduino MCU – The Details (2)
Implementing more messages and getting the startup sequence right …
↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓
Last time we’ve established the basic library structure based on C++ unions and got the MLX90363 up and running using no operation messages (link below). However, during power on startups our library threw some errors. It’s time to fix that.
We’ll first implement three more messages to eliminate the errors. Then we’ll come up with a working reboot sequence for the MLX90363, to get it reliably into a defined state. For reasons that will become clear, this will include standby messages.
00:00 Intro - implementing more OpCodes to avoid errors
01:31 OpCodes - we might see after power on
03:08 Interleave - of MOSI commands and MISO responses
05:23 Ready message - first MISO messages after a reset
06:40 Error message - slave throwing some kind of error
07:48 NTT message - slave has nothing to transmit (NTT)
09:18 Code 1 - ready, error and NTT MISO messages
17:27 Test 1 - no library error, but inconsistent behavior
20:04 Reboot message - resetting the slave
21:50 Code 2 - reboot message and reboot during begin()
26:05 Test 2 - consistent startup behavior, but it’s an error
27:18 Standby message - putting the slave into standby
29:00 Startup sequence - the right messages in order
33:55 Code 3 - standby message and extended begin()
39:02 Test 3 - consistent startup behavior, no error
40:13 Wrap-up - getting magnetic data is next, bye
Tutorials ua-cam.com/play/PLwq-2MnM58FKn3920rc1V0qoTsQDheTIw.html
Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer & Arduino MCU - The Basics ua-cam.com/video/XAbHbonRWEk/v-deo.html
Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer & Arduino MCU - The Details (1) ua-cam.com/video/w1Tx66HK83Q/v-deo.html
My code drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CLvym6ytoPLXkoji6DU-rJKnTpFYmiu6?usp=sharing
Melexis MLX90636 Datasheet media.melexis.com/-/media/files/documents/datasheets/mlx90363-datasheet-melexis.pdf
Getting Started Guide for MLX90363 | Melexis media.melexis.com/-/media/files/documents/application-notes/mlx90363-getting-started-guide-application-note-melexis.pdf?la=en
#arduino #magnetometer #microcontroller #spi #tutorials #tutorial #how-to #robertssmorgasbord
↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓
Last time we’ve established the basic library structure based on C++ unions and got the MLX90363 up and running using no operation messages (link below). However, during power on startups our library threw some errors. It’s time to fix that.
We’ll first implement three more messages to eliminate the errors. Then we’ll come up with a working reboot sequence for the MLX90363, to get it reliably into a defined state. For reasons that will become clear, this will include standby messages.
00:00 Intro - implementing more OpCodes to avoid errors
01:31 OpCodes - we might see after power on
03:08 Interleave - of MOSI commands and MISO responses
05:23 Ready message - first MISO messages after a reset
06:40 Error message - slave throwing some kind of error
07:48 NTT message - slave has nothing to transmit (NTT)
09:18 Code 1 - ready, error and NTT MISO messages
17:27 Test 1 - no library error, but inconsistent behavior
20:04 Reboot message - resetting the slave
21:50 Code 2 - reboot message and reboot during begin()
26:05 Test 2 - consistent startup behavior, but it’s an error
27:18 Standby message - putting the slave into standby
29:00 Startup sequence - the right messages in order
33:55 Code 3 - standby message and extended begin()
39:02 Test 3 - consistent startup behavior, no error
40:13 Wrap-up - getting magnetic data is next, bye
Tutorials ua-cam.com/play/PLwq-2MnM58FKn3920rc1V0qoTsQDheTIw.html
Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer & Arduino MCU - The Basics ua-cam.com/video/XAbHbonRWEk/v-deo.html
Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer & Arduino MCU - The Details (1) ua-cam.com/video/w1Tx66HK83Q/v-deo.html
My code drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CLvym6ytoPLXkoji6DU-rJKnTpFYmiu6?usp=sharing
Melexis MLX90636 Datasheet media.melexis.com/-/media/files/documents/datasheets/mlx90363-datasheet-melexis.pdf
Getting Started Guide for MLX90363 | Melexis media.melexis.com/-/media/files/documents/application-notes/mlx90363-getting-started-guide-application-note-melexis.pdf?la=en
#arduino #magnetometer #microcontroller #spi #tutorials #tutorial #how-to #robertssmorgasbord
Переглядів: 149
Відео
Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer & Arduino MCU - The Details (1)
Переглядів 15214 днів тому
Basic library structure and sending/receiving NOP (no operation) commands … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ Three weeks ago we had a fist look at the Melaxis MLX90363 Triaxis® magnetometer (link below). While the chip supports a wide range of applications, the existing Arduino code for it does not. So it’s time to start writing our own library for it. We’ll first go thr...
Channel Announcement: Sorry, No Video Today - It’s Too Hot, so I’m Going Sailing
Переглядів 12421 день тому
I’m sorry, but it’s currently too hot in Germany to make videos … ↓↓↓ Complete description and links below ↓↓↓ So instead I currently use my free time to sail. I apologize for any inconvenience, and I promise the “The Details (1)” video about the Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® magnetometer (see link below) will be published next week. Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer& Arduino MCU - The Basics ...
DisplayPort to DVI Adapter Teardown (All the Chips)
Переглядів 692Місяць тому
Ever wonder what’s happening in a DisplayPort to DVI adapter, let’s find out … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ Well, adapters between DVI and DisplayPort are a dime a dozen. Makes you wonder if there’s anything inside these things. Fortunately I have a broken DisplayPort to DVI adapter at hand. So we can have a peek inside. After a first look we tear the thing apart, wh...
Melexis MLX90363 Triaxis® Magnetometer & Arduino MCU - The Basics
Переглядів 242Місяць тому
Is it just another magnetometer chip? We’ll see … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ Remember the Diodes AH3582 hall effect switch, the Melaxis A1334 and A1335 hall effect angle sensors, and the QST QMC5883L and Memsic MMC5983MA 3-axis digital compasses (links below)? It’s time for another magnetometer chip! I just wanted a simple chip, that measures magnetic fields from m...
SMD Reflow Soldering SOIC-8 & TSSOP-14 Breakout Board
Переглядів 599Місяць тому
Just me doing two SMD breakout boards in real time … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ I filmed the making of two SMD breakout boards (mostly) under the microscope. It’s a boring video with a voice over of me mainly talking about the mistakes I’m making. So feel free to watch it at double speed 😉 ►Applying Solder Paste and Placing Chips 00:00 TSSOP-14 07:52 SOIC-8 ►Reflow...
WMF Lono Milk & Choc (Partial) Teardown, Test and (No) Repair (It’s Working)
Переглядів 195Місяць тому
This was supposed to be a repair, but nothing was broken really … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ I got a fancy WMF Lono Milk & Choc for repair from a family member. That thing is supposed to make hot milk, hot milk with foam, cold milk with foam, and hot chocolate - and it does. Never trust somebody else’s failure analysis. We first have a look at the unit and then pro...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (20): Stop Bolts & Assembly
Переглядів 121Місяць тому
Making two stop bolts (one with difficulties) and putting everything together … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ Last time we made the key that goes into the shaft’s keyseat and the wheel hub’s keyway (link below). Now only two small parts, two stop bolts, are left to machine, and we can put the whole thing together. We start with the first stop bolt that goes into the b...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (19): Key
Переглядів 2902 місяці тому
Milling and sanding to make a key fitting the keyseat and keyway … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ In the previous video we’ve made the last large component: the backplate (link below). Now there’re only three small parts left to do. Key amongst them is, well, the key, which goes into the shaft’s keyseat and the wheel hub’s keyway. First we saw off a piece of aluminum s...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (18): Backplate
Переглядів 1762 місяці тому
Done in one go: some milling, some drilling and some threading … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ In the previous video we’ve finished the shaft (link below). Now there’s only one larger part left to do: the backplate. So let’s do the backplate in one go. First we saw off a piece of POM and mill it to dimensions. Then we scribe some lines on it. After that we mill a pock...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (17): Shaft (2)
Переглядів 2,1 тис.2 місяці тому
The mill operations on the shaft … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ Last time we did all the lathe operations on the shaft (link below). Now we will finish the shaft in the mill. First we scribed a couple of lines onto the shaft. Then we drill a hole for a stop bolt and mill a keyseat into it. 00:00 Intro - two more features to do on the mill 00:54 Drawing - one keyseat ...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (16): Shaft (1)
Переглядів 6692 місяці тому
The lathe operations on the shaft … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ In the previous video we’ve finished the body (link below). We did the wheel hub and the wheel itself quite a while ago (links below). So it’s high time to make a shaft to connect everything. First we have a look at the features to be done on the lathe. After sawing off some aluminum round stock we proc...
Proxxon PD 250/E Lathe Tailstock Maintenance (Cleaning & Adjusting)
Переглядів 6583 місяці тому
I think my tailstock is on the loose, so it’s time to take it apart … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ I’m using my Proxxon PD 250/E lathe for one and a half years now (link below). And I really did put it through its paces, at one time even creating a little smoke (link below). So it’s no surprise that my tailstock is in need of some TLC. First we slide the tailstock of...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (15): Body (6)
Переглядів 3273 місяці тому
Last operations (tapping) on the body, then it’s finished … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ Last week we performed the last round table milling operations on the body (link blow). That leaves us with eight already drilled holes in the body which have to be tapped, and then the body is done. First we have a look at the drawing to see how deep the threads need to go. Then...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (14): Body (5)
Переглядів 3593 місяці тому
Last round table milling operations on the body … ↓↓↓ Complete description, time index and links below ↓↓↓ Last week we did the first round table milling operations on the body: A round inside pocket and an O-ring grove at one side (link below). Now we’re going to do some round table milling on the outside of the body! And it won’t be pretty. First we have to figure out how to clamp the work pi...
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (13): Body (4)
Переглядів 3793 місяці тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (13): Body (4)
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (12): Wheel
Переглядів 2024 місяці тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (12): Wheel
Electronic Steering Wheel Rudder Jog IP68 11 Wheel Hub 3
Переглядів 1574 місяці тому
Electronic Steering Wheel Rudder Jog IP68 11 Wheel Hub 3
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (10): Round Table Center Shaft
Переглядів 2294 місяці тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (10): Round Table Center Shaft
Mailbag: Aluminum Nuts and Bolts, O-Rings, Silicon Tube, End Mill
Переглядів 1674 місяці тому
Mailbag: Aluminum Nuts and Bolts, O-Rings, Silicon Tube, End Mill
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (9): Body (3)
Переглядів 4864 місяці тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (9): Body (3)
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (8): Body (2)
Переглядів 2085 місяців тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (8): Body (2)
Small Project: Proxxon BFB 2000 Mill/Drill Unit Improvement (Head Orientation)
Переглядів 1,1 тис.5 місяців тому
Small Project: Proxxon BFB 2000 Mill/Drill Unit Improvement (Head Orientation)
Small Project: Pointed Metal Shaft for Visual Alignment of Parts
Переглядів 1,1 тис.5 місяців тому
Small Project: Pointed Metal Shaft for Visual Alignment of Parts
Mailbag: Threading Die, Spiral Flute Tap, Drills
Переглядів 955 місяців тому
Mailbag: Threading Die, Spiral Flute Tap, Drills
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (7): Body (1)
Переглядів 5695 місяців тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (7): Body (1)
Proxxon KT 150 Compound Table Maintenance (Cleaning & Lubricating)
Переглядів 6126 місяців тому
Proxxon KT 150 Compound Table Maintenance (Cleaning & Lubricating)
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (6): Wheel Hub (2)
Переглядів 2246 місяців тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (6): Wheel Hub (2)
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (5): Overview, Wheel Hub (1)
Переглядів 3186 місяців тому
Electronic Steering Wheel / Rudder Jog IP68 (5): Overview, Wheel Hub (1)
Mailbag: 2 Ton Press, Broach, Turning Tools, Drills, Aluminum and POM
Переглядів 3436 місяців тому
Mailbag: 2 Ton Press, Broach, Turning Tools, Drills, Aluminum and POM
Thanks for the series. Learned a lot. Did you ever write the library you mentioned? Which lib do you recommend after 2 years this video was made? Thanks.
how to calculate values of R and C for snupper circuit across triac ?
What is TH1 on the board?
I have 1TB and all my drivers,OS, games and movies etc are inside which I can't access it due to the fatal hardware device error that is showing. How to resolve the problems.
Well, the best bet would be a data recovery service. My general advice (in your case for the future) is to make backups on a regular base.
I am using a Mega 2560 Board and I wrote exactly what you wrote , but I only get Junk Characters . I tried with Hardware Serials and even SoftwareSerial Library . Please advise
That is a very hardware specific hack for the Arduino Nano Every (ATMega4809) and does definitely not work with the Arduino Mega 2560 (ATmega2560). Sorry!
Hello Robert, do you have any idea where I have to connect the black cable from the Sonos Sub WLAN Card? A mouse cut it of. Thanks
Hallo Sven, ist jetzt schon über ein Jahr her, das ich das Ding bei mir hatte, und kann mich beim besten willen nicht mehr erinnern. Sorry!
Hallo Robert! Kannst du mir sagen wo das schwarze Kabel von der WLAN Karte beim Sonos Sub angeschlossen wird? Gruss Sven
Hallo Sven, ist jetzt schon über ein Jahr her, das ich das Ding bei mir hatte, und kann mich beim besten willen nicht mehr erinnern. Sorry!
is something like this (much) better then mf70?
Can't really tell, 'cause I never used a MF 70. But just comparing the spindles ... MF 70: 100W, 5000 - 20000rpm, max 3.2mm collet vs BFW 40E: 250W, max 900 - 6000rpm, 6mm collet ... and the travel of the compound table ... MF 70: 134mm x 46mm KT 150: 150mm x 150mm ... tells me that the MF 70 is meant for smaller parts and smaller tools. Also, the MF 70 is probably a considerable more precise machine than the BFB 2000 (pain in the behind to align everything).
Is the BFB 2000 better then mf70 micro mill? Aluminium brass steel parts for cameras and clocks?
Can't really tell, 'cause I never used a MF 70. But just comparing the spindles ... MF 70: 100W, 5000 - 20000rpm, max 3.2mm collet vs BFW 40E: 250W, max 900 - 6000rpm, 6mm collet ... and the travel of the compound table ... MF 70: 134mm x 46mm KT 150: 150mm x 150mm ... tells me that the MF 70 is meant for smaller parts and smaller tools. Also, the MF 70 is probably a considerable more precise machine than the BFB 2000 (pain in the behind to align everything).
Hi Robert. No so boring video!!! Rather educative.
Hi René-Jean, no, the journey to get to that point was certainly not boring, but the result in terms of functionality is. Anyway, hope you like that I'm back to C++, MCUs and chips 😉
Thank you Professor for this excellent explanation of capacitive sensors. I enjoyed this toughly!
You're welcome! I'm always happy if my videos are useful to somebody. BTW I'm not a Professor 😅
Just off the strength of you saying this lathe was German, I listened to your first video and this one And just five minutes ago, ordered this lathe off Amazon and a add on for making balls for my armatures Awesome breakdown, please don't stop being amazing! Thanks for this really great info video! 👍👍 UK
Thanks for the praise! I'm blushing here 😅 Hope you have a lot of fun with your new lathe. And of course you're very welcome!
Thank you so much for your detail explanation. I learnt from you a lot, I mean it.
You're very welcome! I'm always happy if my videos are useful to somebody.
If it's too hot for sailing, then go whaling.
The largest "whales" in the area are about 20kg and harpooning is not allowed 😅
Promises, promises...will the weather be cooler next week?🌞🔥🤣
Next week the temperatures should be down to a manageable 25°C. So I'm optimistic. The last few days it was 30°C or more, which amongst other things led to a thermal shutdown of my studio lighting (and my brain) - my lair is under the roof.
Спасибо за видео, сегодня получил такой и уже починил😅
Пожалуйста! Что с тобой не так? И как ты это исправил?
@@robertssmorgasbord в моем случае при сборке повредили компоненты на плате. Я починил. Мой прибор немного отличается от вашего.
@@Aaa-mx4ft Благодарю вас за информацию!
You have FAKE CHIP.If your serial number is A50285BI or 00000000 you have fake chip. You have "custom' fake chip :)
Well, that explains why it doesn't behave in all respects like an original FTDI chip (like shown in the video) 🙂
Displayport is AC coupled at the source, so additional ac coupling caps arent needed at the converter. In fact, one of the key uses of this chip is to convert displayports ac coupled serdes into a dc coupled tdms signal. Secondly, strictly speaking this is to enable a dual-mode displayport connector to output to dvi, as true displayport signalling is actually packet based, and can run on anywhere from 1 to 4 lanes in differing applications.
As usb- c displayport alt mode doesn't support dual mode, usb-c to dvi adapters actually have protocol conversion built in.
Thanks for the info! I'm to hung up on the electrical side of those things (level shifting etc.) to deep dive into the higher protocol layers 😅 So, thanks again for providing that info!
@@varno Again, thanks for the info! USB C isn't even on my radar as a display interface 😅 But of course it's one of its functions.
Excellent presentation Robert!
Thank you very much!
Hello Robert, I am a little bit confused... Is there a difference between RS422 seen as communication protocol and electrical interface? Because I am considering an encoder line driver 5V Rs422 and I don't understand what the RS422 means in this case. I think it just means that we have a differential conversion in rs422 differential signal. Is it corrrect?
RS422 is a physical specification for transmitting/receiving asynchronous serial data (differential signaling, signal levels etc.). RS422 doesn't care about the logical format of the serial data transmitted (e.g. 7 data bits, no parity bits two stop bits - or - 8 data bits, parity bit, one stop bit). You could transfer the same serial data via RS232, RS422, etc.. Hope that clarifies things.
@@robertssmorgasbord Sorry just another question, if I have a signal A that can be 0v or 5v, with RS422 I will have for A=5V -> A+=5V and A-=0V and for A=0V -> A+=0V and A-=5V or if A=5V -> A+=2.5V and A-=-2.5V and for A=0V -> A+=0.epsilon V and A-=-0.epsilon. Or they could be both good solution? Thank you.
@@LucaniaRobotics As far as I can tell your first example (0V/5V) is well within the RS422 specification. However, +/- 0.epsilon V wouldn't work (e.g. +/- 0.9V), because the minimum differential voltage (Vod) under load is +/-2V. +/-1V is in that case the minimum on the signal lines under load.
Hi Robert, thanks for the info on the calibration. I downloaded your code for compass but at North I have the 0 degrees but then I get -1, -2 etc.. on South it stop at 179 then I get -179, -178, -177 etc.
To be honest, I have no idea what's going wrong. BTW it's not my code 😅 if you want to have a look at my code have a look at "The Details" videos about that chip (first one here ua-cam.com/video/NTDS2Vmnr-4/v-deo.htmlsi=hib-w7Kg9msAigIU ).
Hi robert Thank you very much for the video its reallay give me a lot of new knowlade. i have a questions about the thermocouple with the max6675,now im in a project to make deep frying machine and i've used the thermocouple. everytimes the themocouple touching the survaces of this machine which is made by stainless steel its get failure for the thermocouple read the temperature. i hope you have any sugest or recommendations for it, should i do special methode for this thermocouple max6675 or i must to use other module for it? thanks, have a nice day
You're probably experience a problem related to the shorting issue I discussed in the video ( ua-cam.com/video/qub3yzqEwek/v-deo.html ). I guess in your case the power supply of your microcontroller and MAX6675 has some (albeit small) potential to the housing / the stainless steel of your machine. This causes a current loop through the sensor into the MAX6675 which messes up the measurements. There are three possible solutions for that problem: 1) Make sure your MCU and MAX6675 are galvanically isolated from the housing of the machine. 2) Use an isolated thermocouple. 3) Galvanically isolate the MAX667 (see ua-cam.com/video/6rEJh4yPekg/v-deo.htmlsi=7D7Fo1dMdy6NBIwd ).
Great video , thank you very much!
Thanks for the praise! And you're very welcome!
I love your editing style, so entertaining 😂
Thanks!
Hello i have the same hard drive i was wondering how do i recover data from it , because my pc sadly isnt functionable, will this destroy it ???
Well what I did to the drive certainly destroyed it. What exactly is wrong with your drive? It doesn't spin up anymore? The computer doesn't recognize it anymore?
Awesome ! this guy looks fascinating, I look forward to more detail and I know it will be complete !.....cheers.
I just uploaded a little teardown, because I need(ed) some time to think how to tackle that chip. But I think I've go a basic idea now.
yay
Yeah! We're back to interesting chips and coding 🙂
Hi, silly question, for the probes where the gnd must be connected? I can connecto between T2 and T1?
Again, no such thing as a silly question 😉 In that video I connected the oscilloscope probes just across the load (see red arrows here: ua-cam.com/video/rLpFtSayZ3Q/v-deo.htmlsi=H_jZpEFONajM_lWA&t=1988 ). It doesn't matter which way around, since we're measuring AC. WARNING: You're oscilloscope ground is usually connected to the AC mains ground. So without galvanically isolation your circuit (I'm using a transformer here), you might create a short and create a big bang!
Hi, silly question, for the probes where the gnd must be connected?🙈
There's no thing like a stupid question 😉 All probes were referenced (ground connect to) MT1.
Awesome quality video , Robert Sir !!
Thank you very much 🙂
I saw another UA-camr using paint thinner 647 with good results, the thinner dissolves the toner ink when wet and it covers up the small gaps as it dries up. Should be way cheaper than the spray.
Well, that UA-camr you mentioned might be on to something. 647 contains butyl acetate, ethyl cellulose, acetone, butyl alcohol and toluene. It seems to be a secret what's in the density spray. 400ml of the density spray are about 10€, 5l of 647 are about 15€, so there's that. However, 647 seems not to be available in Germany (too toxic?).
grateful i saw this video before i took apart my WD passport. can't use the harddisk for what i want other than an external. the idea was to bang it in a xbox 360 harddisk housing as they're sata and this thing isn't, what a shame. didn't know that socket was integrated, never seen that config before. again, thanks for this video, saved me a tonne of headache.
You're welcome! There is the theory that western digital makes direct USB hard drives, so they can sell the SATA version at a higher price. But then, maybe they really just want to build their external drives as small as possible. Who knows.
@@robertssmorgasbord stands to reason either way. there's probably an intermediary circuit that converts to sata out there (or will be) not sure what it would be called as searching hasn't turned up anything.
@@amiga12001 I've searched high and low for an adapter/bridge that would connect a USB disk to a SATA port on a mainboard, but I was never able to find one 🙁
You sound like the person from the slingshot channel
I can assure you we are two different persons 😅 But we're both Germans, so it must be the accent 🤣
@@robertssmorgasbord Its the intonations too. I mean yes, i saw that you dont look like him, but you sound so similar its funny. Maybe that really is just how Germans tend to speak, i dont know
@@karyjas1 Well, not all Germans have that intonation. It depends on the area. That guy currently resides in Essen and has probably been raised in that area. I was born in Düsseldorf, just 30km from Essen.
Sir, first of all thanks a lot for the video. Iam making a similar temp Data acquisition system with arduino. I have to measure 2.5m underwater. Should i use a thermocouple or thermistor? Please reply.
OK, when to use a thermocouple or a thermistor basically comes down to the temperature range you want to measure. Since you're talking about 2.5m under water, I guess you're measuring "normal" water temperatures between 0°C and a few dozen °C. Thermocouples a great for measuring very high temperatures (hundreds °C), but that's not really necessary in your application. So I would go with a thermistor. Anyway, if it fits your application you should consider using a digital sensor like the DS18B20/DS18S20 ( ua-cam.com/video/XUm9RPWRBx8/v-deo.htmlsi=rNz_LZVcwO_D3_HV ). Here I'm using one to measure the temperature of a water bath: ua-cam.com/video/EP1Lc-g3uY0/v-deo.htmlsi=2YE7tQAADdcGYFHu .
Compliment for very portano tutorial , could you inform me about spring regulation?
Thanks! The spring is contained in the cylindrical housing beside the large black knob (left in the screen here: ua-cam.com/video/dGyBfAovh6o/v-deo.htmlsi=slgBMNotiL8JY2wg&t=1325 ). It's just a long flat piece of spring steel rolled up in that housing. To be honest, I didn't dare to open it up, because the spring is rolled up in there with some force. I guess you could increase the spring force by rolling it up some more, respectively, reduce the spring force by unrolling it.
thank for your answer best regards iller
@@illergiuliotti1896 You're welcome!
Is there a particular reason you used copper to make the capacitor? For liquid sensing purposes, is this the best choice, and why? Thanks so much, your videos have been very helpful.
I used copper because I had a roll of thin copper sheet at hand. In this application the material, as long as it is a reasonably good conductor, really doesn't matter. You could use a carbon/graphite film if you wanted.
This is great info; I wish I had found it first. After following other tutorials I have run into all of the problems and dead ends that you illustrate. I could have saved days! I'm making a sawtooth wave and would like 4096 steps in 1 to 10 ms. I've since realized that this won't happen, but after going from a Nano, to an ESP32-C6 to a Teensy 4.1, I have updates every 4.5 us (MCP4921, 1 channel). I'll have to slow that down a bit for reliability. The output using the Teensy looks awful when zoomed in to the levels you used. I'm looking at filtering, bypassing, and lowering the slew rate on the Teensy output but so far nothing works.
Thanks for the praise! I'm happy if my videos are actually helpful to somebody.
Could you please help me. I can also send you the picture of the circuit and the waveform if you want
Already answered to your highlighted comment 😉
I am trying to capture the wave in the oscilloscope. The sensor works fine. I am getting correct temperature reading in Arduino ide serial monitor. But when connected to oscilloscope, i am not able to debug which part is which. I even connected the diode like u said to differentiate the master signal from the slave. My professor wants me to find the 16 bits of the temperature that is stored in scratch pad and the digital value 16 bits has to match with the celcius value shown in the ide. Even after connecting diode and changing the resistor to 1.5k, i am not able to differentiate anything. The oscilloscope that I use is tektronix DPO 5204. How can i debug it. ( i am using in normal power supply mode only. Not parasitic mode)
The diode in line with the pull up resistor is just there so you can detect the parasitic power delivery by the master to the slaves. It doesn't help you detecting if the master or a slave is transmitting. It's the 100 Ohm resistors in line with the slaves' bus pins that help to differentiate between the master or the slaves transmitting ( ua-cam.com/video/UIx8R1LV6HM/v-deo.html ). That's all coming to my mind right now. Hope it helps!
Hello, nice explanation. For detecting fire, what is the best sensor for arduino uno?
Thanks! And sorry, I haven't worked with fire detectors (neither smoke, nor heat, nor gasses like CO2) so far. So I can't really recommend any sensors.
Very good video. Super interesting. I have been working with these devices here in Argentina for a year. I am currently analyzing the intermediate frequency with artificial intelligence and fast fourier transform. The idea is to reduce false positives and use this module in alarms. I also did tests with the RCWL-0516, which is much inferior, and I noticed that there is a lot of influence between these modules. In fact, the emission is so low that it can be increased by adding more modules (just feeding them, without taking the data from the added modules). I don't know how this practice will influence the HB-100, but I'm going to try it. Thank you so much. Greetings from Buenos Aires.
Thanks for the praise! Doing a FFT on the output signal is definitely the way to go if you want to get the most out of these modules. Please let me know how using additional modules as transmitters works out for you. I think the challenge will be to make sense of the signal output of the single mixer, since the oscillators are not in sync (maybe close enough in frequency, but definitely out of phase). And greetings from Germany!
@@robertssmorgasbord What you say about ECWL-0516 is very interesting. From what I can understand, the device is basically a super-regenerative receiver. This puts the system at times in transmission and at times in reception. This change is given randomly over time. This randomness manifests itself as white noise, which is emitted in the form of RF with the frequency of the tank circuit between the printed circuit and the distributed capacities. The work changes are altered by a secondary antenna that increases the emitted power. It also affects the time it remains in the reception state. I also tried modulating the RF output with audio and it seems to work. More tests would have to be done. It's very interesting.
@@dbagnis Playing with microwave circuitry is fun for sure. I have to admit when it comes to the details, or more specifically, to make microwave circuitry exactly what you want it to do, I'm struggling. It's like black magic to me.
Hello, thank you very much for the good video. I use the Infineon TLV493D-A1B6_3DMagnetic sensor. What is your approach to off-axis correction ?
To be honest, I've switched to the A1335 (first video here: ua-cam.com/video/b_1zqg0UZw0/v-deo.htmlsi=NmtvX_GhS9B3JnpM ). I'm using the internal correction table/mechanism of the A1335 nowadays ( ua-cam.com/video/E37hL-k9jiY/v-deo.htmlsi=29HiJuzEU3BNqFS4 ).
Nice! Helped me a lot! Thanks
I'm always happy if my videos are useful to somebody. And you're welcome!
Like to give my thanks for such a good explanation of Triac(s) in all 4 part video (including zero cross). Thks alot.
You're very welcome!
Savage at work :(
I have to admit that I'm at a loss for words 🤔
Former DOCSIS specialist and board member from many years ago. Nice to see what the competition was up to. Subbed!
Thanks for subscribing! BTW, the DOCSIS 4.0 spec (10GB/s down, 6GB/s up) is quite impressive.
One of the very best (and detailed) video's on this subject!
Thanks! But that's too much praise 😅 There must be better videos out there and, more importantly, better processes.
Thanks! But that's too much praise 😅 There must be better videos out there and, more importantly, better processes.
@@robertssmorgasbord I have watched many, but lots of times parts of the process are left out. I think the PCB exposure setup could be improved. Some stray light always creeps in from the side. The light needs to be further away from the PCB.
@@jooch_exe You're right. When I came up with the idea for the exposure unit (basically reusing an old scanner) I limited the available distance between the UV sources (LEDs in this case) and the PCB.
LIke data-table-driven logic.
Yes, indeed 🙂 In the good old days you would have used a ROM or a PROM.
What mill is that your using? I've ben looking for a handy little mill for a while now
It's a Proxxon BFW 40/E, BFB 2000, KT 150 Mill/Drill Combo. I picked it up used: ua-cam.com/video/AKdBRVT9RWs/v-deo.htmlsi=o5tfuWR_liCQCfYE
The MK2788 chip on the mains voltage side appears to contain a GaN FET, so that part of the advertising seems to be correct... The complete ripoffs with a cheap 5V2A adapter inside are usually completely unbranded. It appears that EUR 10 to 15 can buy an actual GaN charger. Pity the output ports weren't tested on this one. I've got a cheap 65W GaN charger that I just tried, and it will simultaneously supply 20V or 9V to one port and 5V to the other, according to the PD or QC profiles negociated. Plugging in an extra consumer does blink the other ports, but that's merely an annoyance. There's a lot of crap out there, but I've also had store-brand chargers fail me big time. Thanks for the teardown, it goes to show that there are lots of things to test when evaluating chargers, and checking if the negociation actually is per-port wasn't on my list yet...
You're welcome! Testing USB chargers is not really my forte. I don't have any of the required equipment (USB dummy loads, USB protocol emulators etc.). My nephew got that thing at Christmas in a Amazon surprise/return box. Since it was completely unusable in Germany (wrong plug, wrong mains AC voltage), it was destined to end up in my slaughterhouse 😅