Відео

I have a very heavy duty shop made one with 45 ton , it’s unreal the power 😮but the 3 point hitch is great on the farm

The seats are way to high in these things in relation to the gas and brake pedals, horrible design

Cheap plastic and aluminum

👍🏻Truck 👎🏻Video

Helpful info here....Thanks for posting.

Let us know how it works out. I have the same wife issues 😊

Find a dealer that can foam fill. That's the ticket! We used to foam fill tires for orchards in Wisconsin. Added weight and never flat 🎉

Why would you put your hooks upside down if the chain or strep gets loose the hook is going to fall out that right there gives me a clue that maybe this video is not exactly accurate

I've been considering purchasing a Digga. Very informative video; thank you.

Good review, Bob Cat just sent me a couple of tractors to review on my channel and this is one of the models. Trying to learn everything I can about it

Best one I’ve seen yet. Love it!

What color is that ?

Can you explain how you did your top link? Also the rpm thing

im a bit new to tractors. i got the pats easy change , i think the quick hitch only works in a perfect world. then it is in the way of pto hook up and you cant use it for post hole. the cincern id have is cycle time and is it worth piling up hours on a 30k tractor. i have a 2022 tym t494. nice vidja

So pretty you should lacquer it. I have 35 hens and I didn’t realize I would be getting a ton of eggs so I’m gonna have my husband make something like this. You for posting.

Great video Brook! BTW I still think Pat's is the way to go vs a Quick Hitch, especially if many of your 3pt attachments need to have hydraulic lines or PTO shaft connected. Gotta get off the tractor to hook those up anyway. With a hydraulic top link like you have it makes hooking up all sorts of 3pt attachments a truly "quick" process (even with having to step off the tractor for a minute to attach the top link). Keep the those Bobcat tractor videos coming! 👍👍 -Aaron

Pt2 ?

What front levelling kit did you install?

DId you weld the ball hitch receiver on your ballast box or did it come that way?

I am going to join the FB page now that i found this channel. I had a new CT1021 that I put 200 hours on and sold. I had zero issues with the CT1021 and i worked it hard. I sold the CT1021 to buy my new CT2025. You have some upgrades on yours that i want for mine. The tool box and chain holder i would like to see more of. I only have about 15 hours on the new tractor and love the extra size and lift power.

Do you have the part # for the FEL hose cover that you extended? I haven't been able to find thus at any local dealer or online. Thanks!

Is this “for sale”?

Great ideas. Thanks

Great review! I've had a similar experience with my ct2040hst and it's been great. I did order mine with link pedal, cruise control, FEL hydraulic connection, and two sets of rear remotes when i bought it... All installed by dealer as part of the tractor purchase. I'm a previous JD 1025r owner as well and super impressed with the Bobcat CT capabilities. Again, great video!

Was there a particular reason you wanted more horsepower? Pros and cons to everything. Some jobs need it.

Song?

Very nice

CT2025 August '23 searchin for tips....thanks

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So if you go by the DOT. You are required to have a separate trie down for each corner of the tractor then also a tie down for each corner of the loader on the front and another set for the implement on the back on of the tractor. So really you need 12 tie downs and none can use the same anchor points. Oh and each tie down needs to be able to support the wieght of the load.

Can you show us the how you increased the HP I have a CT 2025

Thanks for posting this. I had a MF 1532 a few years back and now I am looking at a JD 2032R, until I came across a 2020 CT2035 HST with 37 hours on Craigslist. Now I'm looking a little closer at Bobcat.

I like

A trooper from Indiana said that if you run the chains through to the other side, you get 100% holding strength. whereas If you just tie it down on each side, you only get half of the holding strength for that tiedown

I like the 4 strap/tie rule. My general rule with tying cargo down is at least 2 straps on any item, or direction of pull. Thus, if one strap is lost, I don't lose the load. Front to rear pull and visa-versa is good. So a car should have at least 4 straps. I have seen people with tire straps, and they seem to be quick and effective. Many attach both in front of the tires and behind the tires, so no slipping over the top. I tend to like to throw a strap or chain around the axles, although finding a clear way to strap around an axle can be problematic. Your tractor rear axles won't break or bend. Cars have suspension, so tying below the suspension is always best. Tractors don't really have suspension in the same manner so it doesn't matter as much. I don't like tying onto those lower links. They aren't designed for that direction of force, and are really only designed to restrict side to side movement of the 3 point. The more tie downs the better for a trailer. Perhaps add some weld-ons?

The rigging hardware you added under the front corners of the tractor frame, are not D-rings. They are Anchor Shackles with screw pins. The 1/2" size is rated for 2 ton WLL (working load Limit.) Your rigging onto the stabilizing/anti-sway rods on the lift arms of your 3 point hitch is a bad idea. Use axle straps to go over the rear axle, so it won't get chewed up, and then anchor shackles to attach the axle straps to a chain or heavy rated cargo strap. Stake pocket D-rings is one way to attach rigging to your trailer. Another way would be to take a loop of chain, run it thru the stake pocket and then fasten the ends of the loop together with a twin clevis chain joining link of the appropriate size. NOW, you can fasten your grab hook from your rigging chains onto this loop of chain.

Mytee makes stake pocket d rings. I highly recommend them

I can hear the tie rods crying frome here. I wonder How much force is pulling the front wheels in different directions? What happens if the ties go flat while being towed of the tie rods pop from the force being pulled on them? I don't mean to be critical but that don't seem like a good idea.

Nice work!

Does it hold that height under load or are the bags maxed out?

Nice

Led Zeppelin orale

Amazing. The truck sounds exactly like Led Zeppelin.

Your front D-rings are best. Put a plank or plywood down for your bucket to protect your bed. If you can throw straps around the rear axle would be best at the rear. A strap over the bucket for extra measures. You can never have too many tie downs. Is the implement bounces, a strap there too. DOT won't become interested with your load.

Brook, maybe see about adding D-rings to the trailer for extra tie down points. I have several different types of tie downs points we have added to our trailer giving it more versatility

Brook, I have a large tub of chains, tiedowns, bungees, come alongs and ratchets. I like the ratchet that you have that goes around the tire. It is an approved method for hauling cars on trailers etc and you know those wheels arent going any where. Im glad Im glad not the only one! Best

Godda calculate it manually never trust those. Mine said 24 mpg when I was actually getting 28

How many inches long are those aftermarket links end 2 end? Tks.

I’m looking at this vs the spacer kit on kelderman 1.5inch spacer kit with relocation brackets. That way the factory bag doesn’t have to take more psi. But I can’t find anyone that’s installed it.

I was hoping you would show the links when the new one were out on. Just to give a quick explanation on what you did And what they look like replaced. No worries at this point but I’m thinking about doing the same for my 2021. I just haven’t decided if im going to level with stock tires (using a shock and coil package) or go with larger tires. Appreciate the video, hard to find this type of info out there.