Відео

do you have a 1.5 turbo engine? if its setting timing code p0018 p0014 p0016 etc it could be that the camshaft that drives the vac pump may have broken. also if you're getting circuit codes for the cam and crank sensors and not timing correlation codes like mentioned above, its probably a separate issue from a failed vacuum pump. its also possible the force of the pump failing could have cause the timing chain to jump a few links.

It can it just depends on if you catch it right away, if not there are likely metal fragments going through your oil system. If you take off the valve cover, remove as much metal as you can, and do a fresh oil change and filter, along with a new vacuum pump, it may be alright. Thats what i ended up doing on this car

I had to pull the valve cover off and used a remote grabber tool to pick out the peices that were in the cylinder head. some smaller parts may have gotten to the oil pan or got lodged in the oil return passageways. best bet is to drop the pan and clean it out, or you could try draining the oil and running a couple quarts of fresh oil through the motor with the drain bolt still undone to try and get the shrapnel out of the pan, then fill it with oil and change the filter. note that it is possible damage has been done to the motors bearing surfaces already

​@@redcatxb125yeah. It's only bad if there's metal pieces in the engine. Luckily mine was still intact except the vane, but I checked anyway and there was no metal parts in the engine. All I had to do was replace the pump and seal, and change oil. It took me hours since I never had to fix a failed mechanical pump before in my life.

Outcome?

I’m getting tired of this game too

bro you are everywhere i go stop it

What a dick, bro. I can't stand ppl that do this, clowns! TBH it's the ppl, cheaters, NOT THE GAME. They do it in every game, NFS, TCM.

@@hoonigan4217 💀💀💀💀

?? has nothing to do with the vacuum pump, in your case, you would need a new camshaft. the reluctor is pressed on but the slot in the back of the cam for the VP is machined into the cam itself, so they dont correlate. its possible youre off a tooth on timing if you didnt use the cam and crank locking tools

@@redcatxb125 so the brake vacuum pump was seized and replace as well but I’m thinking it was shifted because of debris in the engine

And what exhaust ?

It’s a DNA catback, just a cheapo it has a res and the muffler. If you’re gonna do this swap you need a lot of parts from a usdm h22a4. The wiring harness, oil pump, crank sensor, windage tray, oil pickup, oil pan, crank pulley, mount brackets including the one that bolts to the front of the engine under the cam gears. All sensors and switches from the usdm engine, the jdm ones read differently and won’t work correctly. Also the distributor, coolant thermostat housing, and vtec solenoid or at least the pressure switch from your usdm solenoid, h22a4 intake manifold/ throttle body. The jdm exhaust manifold bolts up to the factory Downpipe, but if you don’t have the trans/engine brace that goes under the oil pan it’ll be fine without it. If you have an SH like mine, you will also need base model cv axels, a half shaft, I got a yonaka one, as well as a base h series manual trans, I got a jdm 4th gen m2a4, the main difference being it has a longer 5th than the type sh m2u4, which won’t work with any engine other than the type sh h22a4, which is a different block casting from the base h22a4. I have a lot of videos on this on TikTok @fateroni if u want to see more. The engine runs great with stock ecu as well.

@redcatxb125 thats a great write up man appreciate it 🙏 . I know someone else will be looking for this and that'll be a big help.

sorry to hear that.

How much you pay !

@@bo24kt depends on how bad it fails. if the vacuum pump fails internally then its like 1hr or a little less labor and part cost, which is in the 100-300 dollar range. if the pump explodes, dont be suprised when itll be 4 ish hrs, plus a valve cover gasket, many shops will quote an engine because metal shrapnel has gone through the engine, and it will raise the risk of a comeback or possibly doing the engine under warranty as they were the last shop to do it. worst case without replacing the engine the drive lobes on the camshaft can also break when the pump explodes, and doing a camshaft is going to mean more labor and cost for a new timing chain set, no legit shop will do timing work without replacing the chain, plus all the other stuff, so maybe 8-12hrs labor alone plus 500 plus or minus some for parts.

youre looking at about 3-4 hrs labor to remove the valve cover and fish everything out, price of the new pump assuming the camshaft isnt damaged, valve cover gasket, (dont remember if it includes the vacuum pump seal) plus an oil change. not cheap but not absurd. However, some shops may quote you a new engine because of the possibility some of those fragments may have run through the engine IE main and rod bearings, oil pump. mainly to cover thier ass, they dont want to risk just trying to remove the fragments as the internals may have already been damaged.

no follow up video but i did have to pull the valve cover, NOTE that the shroud is ALUMINUM! a magnet will not pick it up! only the rotating part is magnetic. i had tweezers, one of those remote grabber things with the 4 small angled prongs on the end and a magnet, then i poured oil directly on the cylinder head with the valave cover off, jacked the car up, drained the oil and changed the filter, then went back together with a new vacuum pump, V.P. seal, and valve cover gasket. it ran normally and we havent heard back from them since/ TIP dont try to remove the plastic hoses connected to the valve cover. trace where those hoses go to from the valve cover and disconnect them there, leaving the hoses attached to the valve cover as it is removed

@@redcatxb125 thanks for the tips man I I'm an electrician by trade so it's much appreciated. Everything seems pretty straight forward though after 3 days of research lol. I'm waiting for the new gaskets to come in then I'm going to tackle this beast. I got 90% of everything out at this point from the side which I figured out by piecing it back together as I got chunks out....I found out the oil hasn't been changed in almost 2 years so I don't know what the hell else I'm going to find in there

Yes assuming it was an internal failure its normally a sub 30 minute job

was it run low on oil?

@@redcatxb125 It was a quart low

@bobevol did you have to fix the timing are did you leave it like that ?

I didnt take off the plastic hoses from the valve cover, I took them off of where they went to, and removed the valve cover with the plastic hoses still attatched to it. however, the GM service manual instructs that you cut a slot in each screw that holds the plastic hose to the valve cover and use a flathead bit to unscrew them. I'd still recommend my method because you dont have to re use those cut up screws or get new ones.

Damn, at least it didnt explode lmao

@@redcatxb125 only on the inside. Got lucky i guess. But the car owner also didn't change his oil for at least 8500 past due. I did change it for him and advised him not to wait so long.

@@patrickstewart3184 yea those motors do not like long oil intervals and bc of the types of cars they are put in they are not well maintained most of the time

Would you happen to have the broken unit?

@@CAPZATTACK610 I do indeed.

Did it do any internal engine damage or was it just a vacuum pump replacement?

@@redcatxb125 They are going to pull valve covers to see if any metal is internal today.

Mine wasn’t covered either. I have to pay 700 to get it out the shop tomorrow

Not that I know of. Buuuuut you have one other option. You could in theory cut the drive teeth off of a new pump so that just the outer sealing ring is going into the cylinder head so it doesn’t leak oil. but the cam wouldn’t spin the pump bc you took the teeth off. You can then run an electric vacuum pump (which was OE on certain gm cars) and run that to the brake booster, as the vacuuum pump only runs the brake booster

Or just drive with no power brakes… but I wouldn’t do that haha

4 times! That’s ridiculous! GM should be paying for that part! Mine broke over a month ago and its still in the shop waiting on a technician to inspect the engine

Yea I’ve heard it’s common to snap the camshaft ears off, this customer got lucky. All it needed besides the vacuum pump was a new valve cover gasket and an oil change, it had about 50k miles if I remember right.

Also Hondas are great man! I own 2 myself. Got a 5spd 05 accord sedan and a 5spd 2000 prelude

My bosses daughters equinox just did this yesterday. It destroyed the end of the camshaft and won't run.

@@brianH45 I’m sorry to hear that. It should be covered under warranty but if not it may be a hefty repair bill

Same thing happened to me last week on the freeway. Very scary. I was able to get off the freeway but ended up running into a fence because I couldn’t stop

The new gm cars are a hot mess. More and more these cars are becoming throw away items

I had to take the valve cover off which on these is like a 2+he job and then pick out all the extra pieces with a magnet / tweezers as only the rotating part is iron based the housing is aluminum. It sucks trying to get that valve cover off

2+ hour *

I don’t remember if it was warrenty but it was done at my shop

Ouch, even the OE replacement part (acdelco) is now a “made in china” part, I think these things are going at random due to too loose tolerances or bad quality control

@@redcatxb125 My shop was unable to get their hands on an OEM replacement. Part was made in Mexico.No idea what mexican car parts quality is like so here's hoping

@@AThibs probably higher quality than the china garbage lmao

It’s my own tune