Відео

I just wanted something a little more compact due to shop constraints at that time. Thanks for watching!

@@spaghetticallahan9292 that makes sense.

Mineral Oil.

I encountered the same difficulty when trying to find a keyless with a collar. I ended up just purchasing a standard keyless chuck, with the appropriate taper (J33 I believe) and setting it up without the collar. My understanding is that the collar is just to help retain the chuck, and to aide in its removal, but I have had zero issues with my chuck slipping or coming off when just using the taper for mounting.

Yeah, I haven’t had any torque issues really. With taps above 5/16” it pays to run them a little fast to stay in the healthy portion of the torque curve but overall It’s been a very useful upgrade.

If you have a torque boost setting it does help to up it some. Happy New Year.

The controller from the power power tapping video? No, it requires a 3 phase motor, but runs on either 110v or 220v single phase power.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 10-4, do you know where I might find a VFD for 110, with a Single Phase Motor ? I built A Belt Grinder and it has a 3/4HP 1750Rpm motor, it's a bit much without a VFD Controller. They seem to be nearly impossible to find. Cool Videos BTW 👍🏻

Yes. With the shaft for the intermediate pulley drilled off center of the column insert, you can spin the slug to tension the forward belt and then snug the set screw to keep the insert stationary.

The set screw really only keeps the insert stationary until you tension the rear belt with the traditional method in the press. Once both belts are tensioned the insert can’t rotate within the column as it’s being pulled in two directions, both forward and aft.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 Got it. Thank you. Nice work, brother!

Ah yes, poor Bob. Thank you for the comment.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 I hope you start making videos again.. you have a real talent.. I've seen guys with almost a million subs that have less talent.. take care my friend...

Thank you. Some people seem to hate it and others dig it. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Yeah, the imports really don't come close to these older models. I have since removed the step down pulley and put a larger 3 phase motor and VFD on this floor model. It has instant reverse so I can power tap with it and "infinite" variable speed with the turn of a knob. Very Very handy. I have another video on the conversion if your interested.

So on one side of the head casting (left side if your looking at the press from the front) there is the spring assembly for the quill return. On the opposing side (right side) there is the quill handle assembly which moves the quill up and down using a rack and pinion style gear that interacts with the grooves on the back of the spindle. Once both of these parts (spring assembly and quill handle assembly) are completely removed along with the pulley of course, the spindle should slide out the bottom. In the video at 3:24, I am actually hitting the table down which was preventing the spindle from being able to come out. The table was frozen to the column with rust. Hopefully this helps.

It is a Model 820 from the mid 1940's I believe.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 It looks like it's had very little use, do you know the history of it? I have a model 200 which i think is the same as yours without the QC gearbox. I;m on the hunt for a gearbox so i can do a conversion, would be a big upgrade to be able to cut threads. Thank's for the excellent videos and keep them coming !!

@@mibooth1852 Thanks. I believe I am the third owner of the lathe, and the owner previous to me had restored it to some degree. Hence the non original color. Very cool little lathe.

Awesome. Yeah the marking of the motor housing is crucial. If I'm remembering correctly, I think I picked that up from a Mr. Pete video. Glad the video was helpful.

Nope. I made the center pulley slug that went into the column in a separate video as my initial method of slowing down the drill press. In this video I remove the center pulley and just use a 3 phase motor with a VFD. You can slow it down only using the VFD to very slow speeds while not changing belts. However, there is a torque curve to keep in mind which depreciates the more you lower the speed with the VFD. Easiest solution is to run the drill press in its lowest speed setting at all times and use the VFD to speed it up, rather than the opposite. Moreover, if you used the VFD in conjunction with a 3rd pulley you could go even slower while avoiding the torque curve. Hopefully that makes sense.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 Thanks very cool !!🏁😎

It’s been a while, but I think it was in the 30# range. It’s hard to recall cause I had to buy a couple to get it right.

I’ll see if I can find the exact poundage and let you know.

Confirmed. It is a 30# strut.

Thanks Man

Check out Clough42. He had a video on vfd programming and also another one emf noise.

The tension between the pulleys is set using the two horizontal bars attached to the motor mounting plate. At approx 3:25 in the video you can see the removal of the motor mount plate and the aforementioned bars. These bars are adjusted using the two “Frankenstein” looking bolts coming out of either side of the drill press head. In short, loosen these bolts a little, lightly tap the motor assembly/rear pulley toward the front of the press and this will relieve the tension on the belts. Ideally you would get it positioned to where the belt is tensioned but you can still roll the belt by hand between the steps on the pulleys to adjust speed. I hope this is helpful.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 Ok, I took a look, and hopefully I can explain this right, but I can't figure out what's holding those two "frankenstine rods" in place? Like I see the screws that hold the motor to the mount, but are there any screws that hold those rods in place, or do they just come out once the motor is taken off the mount

@@adamthewoodworker2571 In my press there are is a bolt on either side of the main head casting that act as set screws on the motor mount shafts (frankenstein shafts). They stick out of the drill press head like the bolts out of Frankenstein's head.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 Hi, sorry if this is a repeat because I can't tell if my follow up to you actually went through. I was curious if this is the bolt that you are referring to: imgur.com/a/MmQ8gFZ

@@spaghetticallahan9292 And final question, @3:55, is that bolt the only thing holding the bottom plate in place to the pole? I'm trying to take off the table and the bottom plate from the pole without taking off the top or motor. Right now it is extremely hard for me to move the table left/right or up/down so i'm hoping by removing the plate I can completely clean out all the gunk built up in it.

Yes, I've considered adding one but generally speaking, I don't drill anything over 1/2" with the press so I can usually go by feel. I also have one of those cheap digital readers and a reflective strip on the chuck to read speeds.

Says the guy who's subscribed to Justin Bieber. Thanks for the comment!

@@spaghetticallahan9292 lmfao subscribed !!!

Ha! I watch all the ToT I can get my filthy little mitts on. What prompted the question?

@@spaghetticallahan9292 good choice haha......nothing in particular just got some ToT vibes

@@westweld I try not to borrow too directly but the lines get blurry sometimes. The guy is prolific.

@@spaghetticallahan9292 haha agreed

@@spaghetticallahan9292 great build too

Thank you. Yes, the welder has been very reliable since I purchased it in 2015. No problems to speak of. Very good for stationary garage use but for field work, they are a little fragile. The knobs on the front are basically hard connected to the display circuitry so if you snap a knob of throwing it in a gang box or something it’s game over. Oh, and yes, flux core.