Відео

@@davepo6443 I guess I have a few more questions. The guy said your IAC was partially open? Is it mechanical stuck open or is electrically being opened, and if it is electrically opening then is the computer calling for it or is it a voltage bleed over from something else? Just something to look at that needs to be solved. The rpm seems high to me but been a long time since ive been in a 800 to remember. I would definitely look at the clutch and belt. Lots of videos about clutches but look at the snowmobile ones they seem to be more informative. I know belts will cause a misfire code at low speed. I know you said you have no engine codes but I know if something is worn out on your clutch’s it’ll cause hesitations and luckily most of that is a visual inspection. Good luck with it and let me know what you find out on it. Thanks

@@segamodshop1498 Thank you. I'll let you know what I find out. Don'y know answers to your questions, but will pass on to repairman.

@@segamodshop1498 Thank You for your response. I have some new information on the 2012 Polaris 800 Razor having issues at 45mph. I was asked if it could go faster than 45mph. Just took it for another test. As usual it hesitates at 45mph. I pushed it on a longer stretch and when it gets to 50mph it stops hesitating. When I get to 55mph it hesitates again. Top speed is 60 mph at a maximum of 6500 rpm. To obtain codes, one video suggested turning the key off and on 3 times and it will show a code. Didn’t see anything pop up when I tried it. I don’t know if this 800 has the ability to display any codes? I’d like to include some responses from folks kind enough to offer suggestions to see if it triggers any other ideas pointing to one thing. The spark plugs were replaced about 1.5 years ago. They were examined recently and found to be good. I still might replace them as that’s a cheaper item. I suppose it could be a bad spark plug wire.. or coil wire. Your thoughts? Suggestions: fuel pressure check, sounds like fuel pump, spray water on spark plug wires and coil wire, Fuel stabilizer, Belt might be slipping, inspect clutches and belts, don’t think its clutch related, sounds like clutches sticking, check belt for damage, weights in primary clutch are too light, was IAC mechanically stuck open or electrically being opened. Thanks again. I’m hoping this new information might directly point to something that I will try and tackle on my own. Taking it in is a last resort for me. I promise, to get back to you once I find the issue! Thank you kindly. Very much appreciated. Dave

@@segamodshop1498 I finally have the answers on the 2012 800 Razor issues. Thank you for your response! Summary for 2012 Razor 800: • Fuel pressure was a consistent 44PSI which is in spec. Previously verified during last repairs. • Spark Plugs were checked during previous repairs and color was a light brown (NGK BKR7E) Plugs replaced in previous repairs Jan. 2023 • TPS set at .730 per factory spec. using TPS TOOL brand meter (specified range is .720-.740 TPS voltage setting controls idle and start up. • Overall TPS voltage affects WOT, but that would be bad TPS unit. • IAC solenoid was partially open because of excessive dirt build up in throttle body. • Injectors were checked and cleaned because fuel goes bad much faster in the summer heat of the desert. • Mass Air Flow sensor was cleaned with MAF sensor cleaner because of dirt and oil build up • UNI brand Air Filter cleaned and treated and intake tract cleaned Diagnosis: • During diagnosis test drive the operators RPM’s were watched closely. • During wide open throttle pass on pavement, engine was at 6400 rpm at 45mph. • 6400rpm is on the rev limiter and that’s the surging feeling. Had to feather the throttle lightly to work towards 50mph and hit 6400 rpm again. Definitely Clutch related (clutches were not serviced in Jan of 2023, only on new belt). CLUTCH INSPECTION ON MACHINE: Secondary clutch was difficult to open for belt removal. Primary Clutch: Needed partial rebuild • Installed new OEM sliders • Rollers in the spider were good • Installed new OEM 2- way bearing • Installed new OEM 23-62 weights (removed 23-58 weights) • Installed new OEM shoulder bolts for the weights Secondary Clutch: Tear Down • Internal Rollers in excellent shape • Excessive dirt and debris in bushing area of moveable sheave resulted in hard to open during belt change, also translates to poor operating results • Replaced Belt Drive • After Clutch servicing engine holds at 6150 rpm during wide open. Wide open throttle RPM/MPH test No issue getting to 55mph, did not try for higher MPH as clutches now hold correct RPM

@@cjlorenz6766 if your going to have to change your evaporator then the job is easier to do. Only reason I did it the way I showed was I didn’t want to reclaim the Freon and recharge the system. Pulling the whole dash with the air box attached to it is maybe an hour job to get it out.

@@segamodshop1498 I've been having issues finding videos or help on how to remove this whole dash to do this job. Don't really know if I want to tackle this job myself or not, not that I don't think I could do it... Just don't have a garage, would have to do this out in the yard ( dirt/gravel driveway) and Florida heat/humidity sucks!

@@cjlorenz6766 I feel you on the heat since I’m in South Georgia. Well I guess next dash I do on a Jeep I’ll make a video. Figured there was already a bunch out there. Good luck with it, which ever option you do

Sure I’d give it a try and post a video on it.

@@segamodshop1498 Hi, thanks. Please let us know your con tact info

They are Bushwacker fender flares. Think I got them from 4wheelparts. Have had them on there for over ten years so don’t exactly remember where they came from.

Yes with my situation those were working

I don’t want to miss leaded you on it so I’m not 100% sure. But if I remember correctly the transfer case from a 3.6 won’t work. Why I say that is when you do the 8 speed swap on a 3.6 then you have to source a 3.8 transfer case, I believe, but haven’t done one yet so can’t confirm The wiring based on my experience with mopar wiring if it’s seen a good amount of water and mud then it’ll probably have issues soon. You can buy the wiring harness from Hot Wire. I think that’s the name of the company. The computer should jest need to be reprogrammed to match up the JK. Which you can do with HP Tuner. Or you can get a hold of JSS and he can get you the wiring harness and reprogram your computer for you. He could also confirm on the transfer case.

I don’t want to miss leaded you on it so I’m not 100% sure. But if I remember correctly the transfer case from a 3.6 won’t work. Why I say that is when you do the 8 speed swap on a 3.6 then you have to source a 3.8 transfer case, I believe, but haven’t done one yet so can’t confirm The wiring based on my experience with mopar wiring if it’s seen a good amount of water and mud then it’ll probably have issues soon. You can buy the wiring harness from Hot Wire. I think that’s the name of the company. The computer should jest need to be reprogrammed to match up the JK. Which you can do with HP Tuner. Or you can get a hold of JSS and he can get you the wiring harness and reprogram your computer for you. He could also confirm on the transfer case.

@@segamodshop1498 Thanks for the reply! An 8 speed swap at the same time would be pretty cool. I'll have to look into that as well. I know Chrysler had to change the tub from JK to JL to fit the 8 speed but people have done it.

I know Jeep Speed Shop does the 8 speed conversion for them. When I bought my kit he didn’t have it all worked out for the 3.8 to hemi conversion but I believe that’s all they install behind the hemi now.

Wasn’t trying to show how to pull the whole dash out. Most people don’t have an a/c machine to recover the Freon so was just trying to so that you could change your heater core without cutting your dash of opening your a/c system.

Sorry to hear you’re having problems with yours. Yes they all have their issues. Have owned Jeep for over 20 years from CJs to JKs and all have their issues. But so does every vehicle out there. But once you lift them and add a bunch of weight to them the issues get worse. I’m sure if you lifted a minivan it would have issues all the time as well. Just got done fixing death wobble on a new diesel gladiator and it was all stock. So yes Jeep still hasn’t figured it out. But they a blast to drive around. Hope you’ll at least enjoy while you own it.

I have a 2007. Never gave me major problems. Amazing car. I love it. Now after 15 years I get this heater core issue. I think it has a right to get sick at this point, so to speak.

Not sure if they all have them but my 743 has a detent with springs in the valve body the holds it open. Same setup as making your boom float.

If yours is like mine then on a 743 has a detent on the valve body that holds it over. Just like the float on your boom. You may have to fix your valve body.

@@segamodshop1498 Ok, thanks very much. Maybe I just never realized this. Appreciate your feedback!

Bushwacker

Almost 5 hours total

I paid around 3,500$ for it.

When you say turning on do you mean the Jeep turning over and running or when you turn the key nothing comes on at all, like dash lights and such?

@@segamodshop1498 exactly, when I turn the Key nothing come on.

Sounds like you have an issue inside your TIPM or possibly the ignition switch. I would start with the TIPM and make sure you got power where it needs to be. It is very common on them for the fuses to not make full contact with the connectors.

I can only speak for doing the swap in the 3.8l Jeep. And unfortunately the answer is no. You have to get either the 5 or 6 speed auto out of a truck. I think JSS does an 8 speed for it. But at the time when I bought my setup it wasn’t an option. If you can find a manual trans out of a Dakota that had the 4.7L they will work. But good luck trying find one. I looked for months and they’re already bought up. So someone may have one in their garage.

You CAN use your factory jeep auto transmission from the 3.8 or the 3.6. They use the same transmission. You will need to change the factory bell housing to the truck bell housing and torque convertor. The tv show Truck Teck used this same kit and reused the transmission and transfer case.

I just watched that episode and they reuse the truck transmission the 545rfe not the jeep trans.

2010 JK with the 3.8L and manual transmission

It’s for a 2010 JK with 3.8. The build video is up on my channel with it installed. Ended up using 6 speed auto out of a truck.

⁠@@segamodshop1498e a 2010 JK Rubicon myself, and also a 2016 JKU 75th Anniversary Edition. Gotta say, I like the 3.8 better than the 3.6, the transmission is another thing. I already replaced that stupid EGR valve twice, and it has only 60k miles, but easy to get at everything. The 3.6, with 50k miles, has already had the rear main seal, oil filter housing, radiator, tstat and axle seal replaced, all under warranty. That cold spell in the northeast in Dec 2022 blew a lot of our oil filter housings, 3 of my friends with 3.6s suffered the same fate last December. I wish I had your level of mechanical knowledge to take on such a project, but I have been taking it a step further everytime. EGR, brakes, water pump, TStat, shocks, throttle body (2007 Commander), exhaust manifolds easy enough to replace, but replacing an entire drivetrain, wwwwaaayyyy past my ability and toolset. When I was a teen, me and a friend pulled a 6 out of his Grand Prix and dropped in an 8 with a Auto trans, I have no idea how we did it, but we did, we had gotten our hands on an engine lift and a use of his friends car lift, and we did it in like 4-5 hours, never got the exhaust quite right, and his exhaust would wake me up every morning (Brooklyn, NY), and I’d curse him.

The issue I had with the 3.8 is that it felt underpowered for the Jeep and the oil consumption issue. Which Jeep “fixed” by saying that a quart of oil use for every thousand miles is normal. The I now know that build could be way easier if you did it differently than I did But I liked the way that mine turned out so I’d probably do it the same. Good luck with your Jeep projects

@@segamodshop1498 I don’t have the oil burning issue with mine, I checked the level after a 1000 miles, still the same as when I filled it. I used Royal Purple 5W20, I hear many say use 5W30, not the 20 for less burn, but I like to stick with the manufacturers recommendation for oil weight.

Mine was burning a quart every 1000 miles. Been doing it since we bought it. And we bought it with 30,000 back in 2012. Actual ended up running 15w40 in since then and the oil consumption went way down. Don’t believe everything you read because the engine had 178,000 when pulled and still ran the same running that heavy oil. But don’t think the engine has tight tolerances like the newer ones.

It held up really well. Ended up smoking it trying climb up over some rocks from a stand still. So in a rock crawling setup don’t know how well it would hold up. I know some will say RZR aren’t made for that. But they did make a rock crawling edition so why not. Ended up going back to stock because I needed one right away and that’s I could get locally.

or need a tune

If you’re asking if you need the harness from the donor engine, the answer is no. The one you get in the kit is built around the engine and transmission setup that your going to run. You get a new computer with the kit so as long at the engine is mainly stock it’s good to go.

743

Bought it from someone off Facebook that bought it for a project and never did the project. Always seems like the best deals for them. And the transmission came for LKQ.

I ended up using the SS zip ties. They’re still holding. But I would buy a few extras incase some get messed up. I had some laying around from other installs. The tool in the kit I couldn’t get it to work as intended.

That’s what I just put back in it. Been happy so far!

@@segamodshop1498 l have had good luck with them !!! Some aftermarket belts are junk I have found

Give me a couple weeks and I’ll post something up with it working. Trying to get ready to start building my shop. Thanks

ua-cam.com/video/2aeFS2wJX9g/v-deo.html. Here’s a short of it working.

Mine was just causing steering issues. I know if the belt gets glazed on them they throw a miss fire code. Have it happen about every time it needs a new belt.

Don’t remember the exact codes but it was for a speed sensor issue.

I may be wrong, but you’ll have to show me from Gates website where it says this. I can’t find where it gives any cc rating for the belt. And if it’s an undersized and wrong belt like you claim why would they list it as the belt for the machine???? Interesting list a part number for you machine and then claim it’s not rated for the machine when it breaks???

scroll down it gives belt recommendations

I got my at O'reilly's an he told me that the computer said that my suggested the red line so that what I got I do know they say not to pinch them at all will cause them to fell an I've heard amazon does when they ship them so don't know jus relaying what my research has came up with guess I'll give it a try it handy being to go to part store an get one is why I'm trying it even know I could've ordered it a little cheaper you never know what your getting on line could been bent or even a blem that someone is saleing