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Mechanical Matt
Приєднався 7 лип 2009
Відео
Stihl Lightning
Переглядів 308Рік тому
Talking about my Stihl Lightning (Contra) This is the first of hopefully many talks about different chainsaws.
Stihl ContraLightning Gas Tank Gasket
Переглядів 1902 роки тому
Changing out the gas tank gasket on my Stihl Lightning.
Another Cool Tool - The Induction Heater
Переглядів 13 тис.2 роки тому
Removing head studs on my pre-war flathead with an induction heater.
World's Biggest Angle Grinder TS760 Guard Change
Переглядів 1652 роки тому
Swapping a 16" wheel guard on a TS760
Bluing Axe Heads
Переглядів 1,3 тис.2 роки тому
Applying PermaBlue to axes heads for a friend's christmas present.
Budd Wheel Tool
Переглядів 1142 роки тому
Using a Budd Wheel Tool to remove the two piece lug nuts on my 5 ton axles.
HEXA vs Stock vs Husqvarna
Переглядів 3,4 тис.2 роки тому
Testing Stihl Hexa Chain vs Stihl Stock Chain vs Husqvarna X-Cut Using a 25 in light bar on my 500i
Fixing Saws
Переглядів 1,9 тис.2 роки тому
Working on Stihl 440, Stihl 048, Husqvarna 350 and Husqvarna 395 to get ready for cutting
75 Chevy Carb Rebuild Pt1
Переглядів 1092 роки тому
Going through and tearing apart the carburetor from my buddies 1975 C20 with a 350
OBS Ford Clutch Installation
Переглядів 4,2 тис.2 роки тому
Installing clutch set MU1989-1SK onto my 1987 F250. Flywheel bolts torque spec: 80ftlbs Pressure Plate blots torque spec: 25ftlbs Sorry about the moving camera, I placed the camera on the transmission which then moved in the wind and didn't realize until after filming.
Maintenance BG72 and FS36
Переглядів 5762 роки тому
Changing out the filters and spark plugs on my BG72 blower and FS36 Trimmer
Folks just buy a 592xp and run it stock, dont bother with the 500i, such an over rated saw that needs so many upgrades to still get shit on by a 592xp . Surprised he didn't do the trash filtration system on the 500 to stop it eating chips.
@@Gcamel405 talking about two different classes of saw so you can’t really compare them. The 592 is a 92cc saw that puts out 7.6 hp and is meant to be Husqvarnas replacement for the 395. The 500i is a 79cc saw with 6.9 up meant to compete with the 585 Husqvarna. If you are looking to compare the 592 to a Stihl saw, the 661 is a similar displacement and hp saw to do a head to head. I personally have the 395xp and it will outperform the 500i in big cuts where the extra power and torque keep the chain spinning where the 500i will start binding a bit, but for a saw to carry through the woods all day for majority of my cutting, the 500i wins hands down as it is much lighter and can handle a 32” bar no problem and there is often a need for a much bigger bar than that
Use it it heat up that stuck valve a few heat cycles should free it up
Also let gravity help you push down on it at a cost of pressure
You need a really good set of vice grips joke up on that stud and honked down on it good or you twisting it then you allowed to twist Plus when you're heating a solid piece of metal it expands it's not like a bearing with a hole and a which contracts maybe heat to block around it a little better or something I'm not sure but put some dry ice on the stud I'm ready to get cold
2 years later I bet the saw is in the corner of garage collecting dust.
@@JohnnyIDive37 your right, this saw does collect dust in the garage, at least since a tree got it, but the 500i I replaced it with is my go to
So you downgraded from captive clutch cover nuts to non-captive??? Sweet
@@PrinceofPain1776 yes, I don’t like the captive bar nuts, I could have gotten a new cover with them and chose not to, it’s a personal preference
@ sweet…
should apply a bit of oil once the stud is hot
Those WCS clutch covers need tightening to specific torques - best to use a torque wrench.
Some friendly advice from the coach 🇸🇪 1. "soak" the stud bolt the day before either with W40 or similar. or a mix of gear oil and acetone. 2. heat the pin bolt until it is as red as a baboon's butt. 3. tap the pin bolt with a copper hammer "hard" 4. as you did tighten the stud bolt a bit before trying to loosen it. 5. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT DO AS WITH THE FIRST ONE❗
Needs bigger doggs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The WCS are selling the Stihl original parts as fallers suspension kit. Order the following parts from your local Stihl dealer: 1135 791 2800 - foam Star - 5,99$ (1×) 1144 791 3103 - Spring - 4,99$ (1×) 1133 791 5900 - rubber buffer - 5,99 $ (2×) 22,96$ - Total costs WCS will charge you at least double price for their so-called suspension kit + sipping costs ✌️
Not another mall ninja saw. 😝
can you add links to all the upgrades sir???
westcoastsaw website
Add a little candle wax or paraffin wax to the threads. The wax gets pulled in by capillary action to help loosen and lubricate the threads.
Just my opinion muffler mods are useless why do it so the saw runs faster its not a race car your cutting wood that's the main reason people do it. Should have used a power tool would have been a lot quicker just saying
Yeah dude I also totally can't see any possible benefit of your saw having more power. Like, wth y wud u do that lol
@@barakgooroo5082 🤣
yeah dude i also totally can't see any possible benefit of buying any saw above a 162. Just another scamming scheme by another corporation of making many models which all do the same
I'm glad that I watched your video because I see that even with the magical tool you can still break off the bolt or stud.
Especially the ones from China.
@@lapplaudme2159 It's not anything to do with China.
Drive the roll pin in on oil pump n turn it up the rest of the way
The suspension kit looks like it might be a good option. Mine came with a wrap handle so I'm covered there. The big dawgs look more like bling than anything functional since I don't think it's a very good idea to really dig them in... But I guess that's a matter of individual taste. BTW, I didn't have any trouble removing my dawgs without removing the muffler. Just use a smaller wrench. The clutch cover replacement also sort of seems blingy. And you lose your captive nuts! I was also puzzled by the guide plate replacement. I don't think there's much stress on that part... so the only difference I can think of is that the saw gets heavier with the thicker one. Anyway, thanks for a fun watch!
@@revdocjim2002 I like the dogs as the middle point is in line with the bottom of the bar, so I can see where it is in the cut, and I don’t like the captive bar nuts but the clutch cover extends down farther so when using the wrap handle if a chain is thrown it will protect my hands
Excellent tutorial! Learned alot thanks for sharing, please make more on axe stuff :)
metal expands as it gets hot. so you are expanding it into the hole.. you need to heat it up and then cool it quickly to make the stud expand and contract to free it up
Good tool in wrong hands
adding weight by useless cover, what is wrong with standard cover? is smaler and lighter. full wrap handle is not practical in forestry. dont know how you feel trees in usa but in europe they have to be cut low as possible. good luck with full wrap. its not a rescue saw. dogs take out your bar lenght, you need 2" longer bar to compensate it, just more weight. did you ever worked with a saw full day? useless mods at all
If you live in an area with large sappy trees a large side cover helps clear the chip box. And a larger deflector helps deflect the chips. The full wrap allows you to cut clutch side up in hard situations where steep inclines are preveleant. Also looks better. Also balances better. The suspension is needed for the 500i when running any light bar over 28in. It's all an UPGRADE. STAY IN EUROPE
@@fellowbrotherinwar what about doggs inhaling 2 inches of your bar and not being able to cut low with full wrap? also the cover looks like arse. random color which doesnt match anything on the saw. Leave usa and come to eu you will learn real forestry
I use the full wrap to easier cut trees without having to muscle the saw around, and as for bar length being sacrificed who cares, I have a 42” bar on my 395 and a 60” bar on my 090 if the wood gets too big for the 500i, and yes I do use these saws all day which is why I make them the way I want to, some days I take out my Mall Model 12 to cut, you want to talk about weight
Don't crank down
I don’t anymore, this was the day I brought the tractor home and I didn’t know what I was doing, I only ever crank from 6 to 12 now
@@Mdcusin975 good. I'd hate to see someone make the same mistake my cousin Rick did
You do not obviously know how to deal with rusty items like the gentleman said heat the area around the bolt I live in the rust belt actually on the east coast all I deal with are rusted nuts and bolts 24 and 7 while I'm fixing cars When you live in an area and rust you are not just an automotive technician who takes things apart you are a corrosion and rust expert You have to develop certain skills and techniques to work these things to avoid breaking bolts constantly otherwise you would never get a single job done Otherwise that done cool tool thank you for the demonstration
Not my project but when he snapped that bolt I had that pucker sensation
Try Ti-DAWGS
have you tried this on o2 sensors?
I heard bucking bill say they need atiffer bar springs. He did that to his its flexible as hell he said. Felt like it was going to break. Im sure he did that star spong too but i know stiffer apringes for sure.
the c83 x-cut chains are the fastest out of the box you need to test again
always turn a stuck bolt both ways before removing...firm taps with a hammer can also shock the corrosion bonds in the threads... heat is great but the two tips on left should always be done.
That thicker guide plate is going to move your bar over how is the chain alignment on the sprocket.
The sprocket is able to move on back and forth a bit so it doesn’t effect the chain alignment
Not sure why your heating the studs. Its expanding inside the block which makes it harder to remove. Take a torch and warm the block around the studs
It’s to break the brittle iron oxide. You see the moisture escaping when it happens. But then let it cool with wax or a rust spray
Why not replace the guide plate if and when it wears out?
Might push the bar off center a bit too.
been so much faster to use a 8mm wrench to hold that nut and not remove the muffler cover. Probably been said but...
Continuously torquing the stud in one direction while it is near red hot is sure to fail as heat is softening stud , heat it as near to the block as possible and allow it to soak in to the threads and rock the stud gently in both directions to try and clear some rust from the seized threads. A few hard blows to the end of the stud can help break it loose. The welder trick is the best choice if you have the tools . You could even cut the stud off about 3/8" from the surface and place a larger hex nut over it and weld it to the stud , the heat transfers very quickly right where you want it , this works great , if this does not work you are drilling and tapping anyway.
Can you do a quick video showing how to remove the spark arrestor? For cleaning/replacement
Why beat on that thing, take care of it and enjoy it for another 50 years.
She was saved from the scrap yard, for now that will have to do, but she currently catches fire every time we drive her
how to make the machine heavier, that's it
Why have dogs on a milling saw?
Haven't needed to use the entire bar, yet, so just haven't gotten around to taking them off
I remove broken bolts with mig welder, it the easier way. Drill a small pilot hole in the broken bolt, start the weld in the hole, and build it up until you can get a large (new) nut on it. Fill the nut with weld pool to the top, , usually come out easy, sometimes I have to repeat with new nuts if it keeps breaking loose. I would not drill and tap unless you make a jig or use a drill press to keep the drill centered and vertical. I've also done it with a stick arc welder using 1/8 rods. Try using a nut twice the size of the one that snapped off, it allows more weld filler and gives more leverage. This one was snapped off below the surface and took 4 tries with bigger nuts each time. ua-cam.com/video/COpRIVGiTqo/v-deo.html
yeah, the suspension kit from Westcoast Saws is great for the 500i. The stock suspension leaves the Chainsaw like a wet noodle.
If you didn’t know I’m gonna tell ya you don’t have to take the exhaust off to take the dog off if
To use a ratchet I did, if I was smart and used a wrench I could have left it on
@@Mdcusin975 yeah good point I’ve done some serious work to mine lmao probably not Stock
@@cammatney6388 Even stock this is one of my favorite saws, it doesn't compare with the 395 or 090 but those are in completely different classes
@@Mdcusin975 I agree with you 💯 for sure they’re great they really are
Nice video. Thank you.
If you got safety links on your x cut you got the wrong chain
Did WCS give you any price break getting all the extra parts you did? Where did you get the inner guide plate, can you send me a part number and link where you purchased it? Thank you.
I'm not affliated with WCS in any way, I just like their products as they are good quality. The inner guide plate number is: 1128 664 1001. I get all my parts through my local Stihl dealer, so no link
With out your timing numbers i was able to tell the husqvarna x cut chain was slower then the stihl stock chain
I could feel it as I was cutting, but it is a semi chisel safety chain, I have since gotten a full chisel regular chain to make it a more fair test, along with several other brands of chain as well
@@Mdcusin975 you earned a new sub there bud keep putting out content
Why no bark box, nor any air filter mod? Thanks
The saw is still new and I run the factory air filters until it needs to be changed, as for the bark box, I put an Egan straight shot on my 462 and didn’t notice enough of an increase to justify the noise level
@@Mdcusin975 thank you for your reply.
Thanks for your video. I am planing to buy a 500i soon, but wonder what you can tell me about/between the 462 since that was another saw I did think about. Thank you for anything you can help me with.
I have both saws and out of the two I grab the 500 first and take the 462 as backup. In ease of starting and power into addition to its light weight my 500 is one of my favorite saws. The 462 is a great saw, but my 500 is my go to. You won’t go wrong with either one you pick
@@Mdcusin975 thanks, you confirmed my thoughts.
I own one & highly recommended it! Spins a Stihl light 32 bar no problem👍
@@rottiejakeluke 500i is goated
Just subscribe to your channel very interesting I'll be watching more of your videos you have a good day and take it easy
Nice! I’ll do the same on mine. I’m still on the fence about the wrap handle, I’ve been using saws without for a long time, but I could see some advantages.
It is a personal choice, most of my big saws have a full wrap handle and most of my small saws don’t, I don’t use it all the time but it is nice to have when I do