Відео

Really!! You've filled the oil pump with ali shavings. Yet your are Too Lazy to disassemble and wash out ALL metal bits ??

I just picked up one of these today for $100.

Don't understand why some insist in push the nose of the saw so far down, almost into the ground

Super 👌 ,oil husw Xp 2t 4/1 👌

how does it do in some wood?

i tried rubber mounts but the engine would twist and the chain would pop off or go kaboom, given i have a 9 hp 212 and a torque converter so it pulled a lot

Your video would have been much better if you had started the video with you taking the carb off the unit first.

It’s actually a clean simple set up, I would’ve done it the same way.🎉

I recently just got given the same exact saw poulan 2150 woodsman i like the fact that its a pretty light saw

congratulations, great saw! but a new machine to run on concrete....😢

Thanks for the video. Most others are confusing. 👍

Plywood ain't ideal use metal or glass

That's old as heck but very cool

Beauty!

adding weight to the handle bars will also solve this problem as well. fill the end of them with some thread all or something similar then put the grips on

Princess auto sell a flat piece of rubber vibration pad. I think its is 6x6 inches that works well. You will have to drill 4 matching holes into it and mount the engine on top and pad in the middle

2 stroke

2stroke probably cause im dumb as hell and if i have to tear it apart a 2stroke would be simpler

2 stroke, it’s better for the environment.😂

2 stroke all day 🤙

Done tried that. Best to weld another engine plate on top of that one. An have all the weld joints around the frame welded up more.an have either a piece of square or round tube in welded underneath the motor plate in the middle.

Thats not guna work

My bro used a piece of flat wood it works good make sure it solid runing length wise

👏👏

You gotta let us hear her at least once per vid but otherwise great video and problem solving. That's what it's all about.

Thank you....!

right on, thanks for sharing! I don't have an engine kit yet, just doing as much research as possible

Smart

I got the older model

It sounds like it looks😢

Cool pop some glasses on and you will be the coolest in town

Well God dam my grandfather would be proud of that Vintage model 60"s era

Are you sure this is right? Tomany people post confusing me

Just tore mine down tonight after it seized up on me. Is the wrists pin bearing supposed to be stuck inside the connecting rod? Mines solid stuck in there

i added one washer to my oil pump and it ended with spun bearings from loss of oil pressure and everything was still tight on pump never again will i shim the oil pump

If you're going to do it cheap and do it well, a wood block is not the answer. Wood is measured by a tape measure. Your block flatness will be measured by a micrometer or feeler gauge. Huge difference. A cheap compromise would be a small, very flat piece of granite ( think kitchen counter shop scraps ) or a piece of very thick plate glass. But, for gawd sakes, not a wooden board.

Is this engine still running on the same headgasket? About to resurface my y8 head to be safe

No you won't be able to successfully drill out the rivets and replace them with screws. For two reasons. One reason the back of the drilled out rivet will fall in the housing and jam up the flywheel . Then, even if you could screw it the full starter mechanism is now loose inside the housing it is not external like most small engines plus there's only about 316 clearance between that rivet and the flywheel worst design ever

Thank you. I am going to the store to buy the materials to fix mine.

depending on the type of rings the rule is 220 gr . the biggest problem is the honing is the stones are soft and go away fast . only opening .0040 for piston clearance stones gone after two cylinders !!! stones are crap now using my old stones 39 years old don't fall apart !!

Amazing restoration!

Hey I just picked one of these up and its a clapper. May need to do a full rebuild but i seem to have some issues finding parts for the internals of the bottom end. I found a seal kit with the main bearings, but cant find a crankshaft or the other bearings. Any tips on what may work from other years? I think my cranks is screwed and i cant find any bearings or replacements for it. I contacted a shop to see if they could rebuild it and they said they cant find the necessary parts either so no. I noticed that the part number for the 1999 crank is the same as the 92, but the exploded view of the cranks has diff. part numbers for the rebuild of it. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I would love to keep this bike alive.

To achieve flatness you need knowledge and something flat. Both are missing. Never do this to your block.

Had one of these. Loved it ..

U run it on 50:1 or 40:1 i just got mine running and the old manual says 40:1

You are letting the drill run too fast. And your not going fast enough with the up and down movement. I have been building motors for about 30 years. Trust me on my advice. That will get you a perfect crosshatch with practice.

Love how you dodged your original error and never mentioned the Transfer Inserts.........that were left sitting on the Table. I'm assuming, since they vanished you took a minute, off camera, to install them.

Sounds good! But get off the concrete and hold that saw steady it's not a hand saw

It's cool that you are interested in engines and are willing to do stuff yourself but I'm going to give you some advice that I wish someone had given me when I was young and there was no internet. First of all cleaning up a Bore with a three hone stone is total crap. As far as I am concerned there is no real use for that tool at all. Uncle Tony thinks he is going to straiten out a bore with it no it won't. If you use that it will most likely introduce a taper into the bore. So first you must measure WITH a BORE GAUGE and see if you have a tapered bore. If you have no taper than you can ball hone it. If not and you do have a taper there is no other option than to get it bored and honed. The cross hatch produced by that crap hone may be marginal for a N/A engine but definitely will be crap for a turbo. For a turbo engine it is not as simple as honing it and running it. If you plan to run any king of real boost on it you need to consider the ring package. For anything that is going to see anything over 7 pounds of boost you need to go to a steel ring package. Under that you can stay with a single moly. Factory rings unless specified for a turbo car aren't going to work. The engine will run but it will not even get to it's potential. I would call Keith Jones at Total Seal piston rings for a ring recommendation as well as a ball hone grit recommendation if you have no cylinder taper. If you need to get it machined let them know what ring package you are going to use. Different applications need different hones. My first advise to you is too not cut corners on machine work. Invest In a good set of micrometers that are .0001 accurate along with a bore gauge with same accuracy. Buy a deck bridge and a dial indicator. Measure everything ! Then measure it again. There is no substitute for tools. If you are serious about doing this you can never have enough tools. I still buy them every day. My number one pet peeve is doing stuff twice. If you go down the road you are your going to live it. My first engine when I was 15 took four batteries to start the car and the engine lasted about an hour. I knows it's cool to have a youtube channel and getting some money on the side is a good deal but advising people on what to do when you have no clue isn't. I would put in terms like "This is what I'm doing" not how to do. I have been building engines for 45 years and I see a lot of the youtube stuff and cringe. Uncle Tony is one example along with Alan from Golds garage I wouldn't let those guys work on my lawnmower. I hope this helps you out a bit. Good luck and enjoy your wrenching!

Hey guys sorry for crappy video quality. I only have 2 hands and very new to UA-cam stuff.