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Yup do it all the time. No issues just watch your heat when flashing or curing. Poly can cause dye migration and change colors of the shirt or the ink. If migration issues arise try a dye blocker.

@@startupscreenprinting thx man.

Yes if you enter it here and then click confirm in the first email you get, you will then get the template startupscreenprinting.com/resources/pre-registration-template/

So true! It’s amazing. And it’s also crazy how many retail shirts at stores are printed crooked haha. Never notice till you’re a printer lol

I got lucky, It’s the only one I’ve ever seen at auction.

I got my cartridges and ink from filmdirect.com and it’s great. And printfab has been great for halftones for me, definitely recommend it.

Glad to hear it was helpful!

Small single press straight to an automatic? You’re ready to jump straight to serious business! 🤣

I’m pretty sure the printer is responsible as well, the person ordering from the print shop has to have a release saying they have approval to have it printed and that’s what releases liability on the print sho, but otherwise the shop can be help liable. Definitely worth checking with an attorney for actual legal council. But it’s not worth the risk so always best to be sure.

Yup that’s great, especially for ones that aren’t obvious!

Great I’m glad to hear that!!

It's just a WEN air filtration unit. I have it to try to keep the lint down to a minimum. Not sure it would work well for fumes.

Oh for sure there’s several great options on these and you’re right, none of this is new. This was just first time I’ve used them. Roller frames are similar just different brand and a little different method of stretching, we used a ton of them at the shop I worked at years ago.

I currently use the Canon IP8720 and love it ssp.ink/ip8720

It wouldn’t ruin it but it could thin it too much which could make your ink leak through the mesh. Plus water evaporates faster than clear core you would end up needing to add more and more as the ink continues to thicken as the water evaporates. That’s why adding clear core is best as it thins the ink and will last much longer during high runs so you don’t have to keep adding more while you print.

Actually I’ve swapped to this printer: amzn.to/3WV0cEG The 1430 kept clogging with the BlackMax ink and I finally wasn’t able to fix it. This new printer is way more affordable and readily available so if it breaks I can replace it faster. For ink, I have surprisingly gotten better results lately with a different ink kit from Film Direct: filmdirectonline.com/copy-of-canon-ix6800-ix6820-completely-black-ink-kit-pgi-250-cli-251-chipset-1/ It doesn’t seem to dry/clog the heads like the Blackmax did and it creates a really dark print. I’ve been able to increase exposure times with this ink and I love it so far.

Typically no concerns like you would have with plastisol where you'd have a chance for ghosting when stacking hot shirts. One key is to make sure the shirts have a chance to cool prior to stacking and that's just good practice no matter the print type. With my situation, I hang the shirts up to avoid that but they also have a good amount of time to cool after curing since there are 3 stations between the flash and back to me. If you're using a conveyor and dropping the shirts into a box straight out of the oven, then you probably shouldn't leave them in there too long. A lot of shops will put a fan at the end of the dryer to cool the shirts quickly before they drop into a box. The bigger shops have a longer section of conveyor after the oven to allow for cool time. If you are like me and not using a conveyor, you can add a fan blowing air onto the stations after the flash to cool the shirts before you pull them off and stack them.

Yeah it lowers cure temp no matter how you heat it so it will certainly help

Sam’s club. Seville Classics is the brand. The cabinets, ink station work table, and all my other tables are all from them

Nice!

Yes, you'll need to add it to every color you are using

@@startupscreenprinting do you flash between colors ? im getting a tacky print sometimes

@P0TKILLS yeah if you’re doing an underbase then yeah you’ll need to flash. Just do one layer of underbase and also give the print time to cool before printing the next color cause if it’s hot you will get sticking

Happy to help!

What would be better information other than the stellar bit you just gave would be a download for that registration card you have 😊

@shawnwalters641 shop.startupscreenprinting.com/products/on-press-registration-template 👀😎

Thanks

Thanks!

Thanks Brent! If you try them let me know what you think!

⁠ will do!

Thanks!

Welcome! Their stuff is really so good. Thanks for subscribing!

Thank you!

👍

So glad it was helpful!

You are correct in that water based inks can dry in the screen, but it does not happen rapidly. You would have to leave it for a few hours, even days, for it to get to a point to where you couldn't get it back out. I've left it in the screen for more than an hour and I was able to come back to it and keep printing.

@@startupscreenprinting That’s helpful. Thanks.

yeah the point with image trace is to get clean, vector artwork from something that's low quality. If your TIFF file is black, then you're good to go and no real need to convert to vector.

Yes, it's been working great. Every bit as good as the Artison 1430. Make sure you get a good all-black ink system and RIP software. Just to be sure, this is the one I have ( Canon Pixma IP8720 amzn.to/3PgN60j ) and I have PrintFAB RIP

Yes, Green Galaxy has 4cp water based inks available: ssp.ink/af4

ssp.ink/course

Honestly my favorite shirt and my most popular is the Bella+Canvas 3413 Triblend

@@startupscreenprinting Thank you so much Jessie

@@startupscreenprinting Jessie, I forgot to ask if you had a favorite Hoodie too ? I want to offer a Hoodie option with or without a zipper. Thank you again !!!

@@ThoseDaysMovie My current fav hoodie is the Sprot-Tek ST272 from SanMar. It's a really nice french terry, so it's great year round. A lot of my customers like the Bella+Canvas 3719 hoodie and it also comes in a zip hoodie that's really nice.

@@startupscreenprinting thank you so much Jessie !!

You would still only mix 12% clear core into the white. So a quart of white is probably somewhere in the 900+ grams range, so you’d add about 100+ grams of clear core into it. Total white times 12% will get you the clear core amount to add.

@@startupscreenprinting thanks appreciate it!

Great to hear! Thanks!

Typically the opaque core is only used when mixing custom colors and in that case, you'll be adding a ton of clear core to the mix anyway. I'm not sure of a situation where you would be using opaque core on it's own so there's not really a need to thin it on it's own.

@@startupscreenprinting i mean thinning the white with opaque core. I have found even the opaque core is still very wet and thin.

ohhhhhh haha i'm an idiot... totally missed that lol, my fault. hmm I haven't considered that. It would certainly maintain better opacity than the clear core so I could see a benefit there. It's thinner than the white for sure, but quite a bit thicker than clear core so I'm wondering how much you would have to mix to see a benefit. The idea has potential. If you end up trying it, i'd love to hear your results.

Ah I typed the wrong one www.retrosupply.co/

My pleasure!

haha thanks for the kind words!

glad you found it helpful!

Also, let’s say you do 5 revisions, but the client ends up going with revision 4. Do you keep all the past revisions? I’m assuming you have a very tidy workspace in order to avoid using the wrong revision 😅 I like to delete everything not used. But I guess I run the risk of the client wanting a past versions.

So I don't always send an art proof for reorders unless it's been a long time in-between. When I do, though, I have a duplicate proof with updated invoice number. I do try to keep versions along the way when clients are making revisions, etc. so that I can refer back to them if needed. I don't keep revision PDFs, just the art all in this single file in its different stages so I can go back and grab it as needed. I covered this a little more in a recent live video where I went over some design tips. Go check that video out, might find some good tips in there.

@@startupscreenprintingThank you! Very informative

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks man! Hope you're doing well!

Any rip software typically works. I use PrintFAB, but you do need rip to tell the printer to use all the black cartridges

thanks I apricate the response @@startupscreenprinting

Thanks Mike! Totally agree. For this order I actually did find the font to replace the text. You’re right always best to use a font vs image trace as it often struggles with text, especially serifs