Відео

@@GoranSoldo-gw2ss this is a genuine honda headlight from Thailand. I don’t mess around with cheap imitations

@@vlad_sus I got the decals as a set from these guys facebook.com/Bigmotodesign

@@APOL.D.PERSKLAS just mounted on the handle bars using the insta360 heavy duty clamp

@@CRF300Dom I made a video for this also. It’s 9.0n/mm ua-cam.com/video/N2b_Itgmk70/v-deo.htmlsi=NS3mbsEo7BKWCSRw

@@JohnEmerich-y5t I think I got them from eBay. The rest I got from these guys facebook.com/Bigmotodesign

@@JohnEmerich-y5t facebook.com/Bigmotodesign I bought them from these guys as a set.

@@Esteban6114 yes

Yes a huge difference and definitely worth doing if your over 75kg, the standard suspension on these is weak. I didn’t like the saggy look either so it was a win win for me

Doesn’t look like much of a hill on camera but definitely worth it

This is how they are produced for the Thai market. I bought the parts to change mine as I prefer the look

@@silverfox1632 ohh that's why they've led lighting in the testing units. Thanks for letting me know, actually Honda is testing this bike in our country with other local counterparts to maybe launch next year or within a few months.

Hi, I’ve sold the bike now as I was only really using it to commute. I never had any issues, ran it on both 95 and 98. It was so much smoother and nicer to ride, exactly how it should have been when it left the factory. I did roughly 2000 miles after the upgrade and it sat happily at 70mph on a commute and held the speed up hill also. I would recommend everyone that owns this bike to do this upgrade, even if it’s just the ‘stock improved’ upgrade.

​@@silverfox1632 Apologies for the additional question, but any MOT emission concerns following the modifications?

@@thetogclan3386 I don’t think they test motorcycle emissions. But even if they did it would still pass it

I got all the bits from www.th-bike.com

I did 29nm on the top and 16nm on the lower. If you tighten the lower to 29nm then you can hear the sound of the spring that I had in this video.

@@silverfox1632 thanks. I'm hearing similar with 29 Nm upper and lower. I will reduce the lower

www.th-bike.com/product/headlight-led-crf300l-set-up-kit

Not sure on part numbers, I got all the parts from TH-Bike. Here is the link to the headlight www.th-bike.com/product/headlight-led-crf300l-set-up-kit. You will need to also purchase the Asian front mud guard and the indicators with brackets along with the led relay.

Thx for the reply. Do you need a headlight bracket for the led headlight? Or does it bolt up directly? Thx in advance. ​@@silverfox1632

@@PCUSER486 the link I sent you includes the new bracket in the kit. Make sure you choose the correct one (abs or non abs). Doing this modification means the indicators will have to be mounted on the forks

Thank you for the link. I was having a hard time finding the part number for the led headlight bracket stay. 👍 ​@@silverfox1632

i use between 10-18mph in 2nd

@@Armak3you just throttling and yanking back on the bars?

@@mehGyver dont even need to yank it just give it throttle until right before rev limiter then let go of the clutch fast at that speed and it will go straight up and you just have to keep it far enough back that it has enough power to stay up, I learned very quickly on my 300l learned how to do it decently in a 2-3 hours, did it nonstop for a couple weeks, until i went a little too far back once and slid across the road going about 40 and scraped my butt on the road, not a bad injury just like a couple layers of skin in like a 3x5 inch area and i have been doing it a lot for the past couple months and havent had problems. shifting up while doing a wheelie takes plenty of practice .I have been doing it for a couple months and I still mess it up like once every 2-5 wheelies but the 300l isnt very scary if you go too far back all you have to do is let off the throttle usually. also if you shift up while doing a wheelie dont use the clutch or you will stop doing a wheelie. you just have to stop throttle for a split second and shift up. and keep giving it gas. It takes a bit of practice to do I learned how to do it on my 300l in a couple hours, and I have been doing it so much for months now and have only went down once for a stupid mistake. overall it is pretty simple to learn it might take a couple falls to learn though, I have only been able to wheelie on the road with my 300l anywhere else and I cant get it up enough to get it to stay up.

@@Armak3 I'm not even looking to ride one down the road or anything. Just want to be able to consistently and accurately get the front wheel up to get over larger logs and rock ledges.

@@mehGyver For that I would just probably put it in 2nd and just give it around 8k+ rpm real quick and let the clutch go at around 10-20 mph the slower the speed the faster it will pop up as long as its at least around 10mph. but it probably wont go up much past 20-25mph in 2nd it shouldnt have any problems getting over logs I dont really know too much about rock ledges because I dont really have them at all where I live.

It’s not a major difference but it’s enough to notice. It definitely feels like it pulls harder and with the rev limiter lifted you can give it that bit more in each gear. Low down torque also felt better

My ECU is due back on Tuesday. I had no problem sending mine using Parcelforce. His address is real. 550Performance LLC Attn: ECU Reflash Order# XXXX W3183 Willow Lane Hilbert, Wisconsin 54129 USA

Yes it’s the full system, with both baffles in. www.th-bike.com/product/headlight-led-crf300l-set-up-kit You’ll also need the front mud guard and headlight connector. And also the whole led indicator setup as this removes the standard front indicator mounts

www.550performance.com/products/my21-eu-honda-crf-300l-95-octane-stage-1-ecu-reflash

Yeah I changed it for the Asian one. It’s loads better and looks better in my opinion. It wasn’t too bad of a job to do, you need the Asian front mud guard and also the headlight mounting bracket which is also different for non-abs and abs models so make sure you order the right one. Another thing you will need is the led indicators as they will now need to be mounted off the front forks and also need brackets. Got all the bits from th-bike.com

@@silverfox1632 Nice one cheers they actually sell a kit, have bookmarked the page, the mud guard and indicators together look an extra £40 or so which isnt bad. Good to hear the light output is a big improvement and it does look loads better, its my biggest gripe even over the suspension that it comes with the halogen everywhere else. You didnt have to replace any loom as someone in the US said they had to do in a youtube video? Hard to tell from the pics on the site but does it come with a plug and play adapter to go from the H4 connector to that needed for this unit? I have LED H4 bulbs which arrived today so I'll probably try one of those in there first and see how much better that is, but while the headlight unit is off to change the bulb I'll have a good look at the mounting brackets that will need replacing for the OEM LED unit. Cheers

@@Fromatic forgot about the wiring bit. I got a male H4 adapter so I didn’t have to butcher the original loom. Doing this alone means you only get full or dipped beam separately, I wired the dipped beam into the accessory socket so that the dipped beam remains on when you put full beam on (with another adapter, I got the one that split into a usb charger as well)

@@silverfox1632 good to know cheers

Quite easy actually, yes also got the fender from there too

Where did I buy what from?

I fitted the lid and the ecu at the same time but doing so made a difference. I went with the twin air because apart from having better flow, the replacement foam is cheaper than a replacement filter

It’s the Thai led version, genuine Honda

Had to send it to 550 performance in USA

Yeah I think so. I didn’t really do it for power gain, I did it for better sound and proper fueling

Just buy 450

@@Dirtxbc I've had 2 of those 450's, and they are not just bigger 300's. They're higher rev and lack the tractor ability of a true L bike.

They’re the stock IRC

It helps but doesn’t turn it into a 450cc, it’s more like taking it from a 286cc to a 300cc. Saying that, I am 115KG.

5th

@@silverfox1632 that’s a big increase! I can hardly hit 72 in 6th

Yes, different fender and different bracket for the headlight to mount to (there are 2 different types of this bracket for led headlight, abs and non abs). Also different indicators as they are now mounted on the forks

180cm 115KG

Danke für die Antwort, ich bin 192cm und 96kg ich werde mir dieses Bike kaufen! 👍🏼Danke dir

Yes 9

www.brooksuspension.co.uk/honda-crf-300-l-k-tech-fork-spring-single-21-22

İt is ok for crf 250 l /2020 year???!

@@tinerr5738 no idea, it just says for 300L

It’s all Honda, bought from TH-Bike.com who get it direct from the factory. I didn’t like the running lights so I left that wire disconnected

@@silverfox1632 looks great thanks man!

@@silverfox1632I also ordered the kit, I have to assemble it but I would like to understand how you modified the wiring to turn on the low beams and high beams at the same time, do you remember the color of the wires precisely?

@@alexc.3057 I wired low beam into the accessory socket

@@silverfox1632 How did you take only the positive from the accessory socket or positive and negative and coupled the negative to that of the headlight?

Hi, in this video I have the baffle in

Ok thank you, I’ve just bought one, I’m hoping it isn’t too loud 😅 do you know the DB reading at all?

@@nrdbikes if you find it too loud you can also get a baffle that fits inside the the entry end of the end can. I bought one and have that fitted also in this video. I found it quite loud for me personally and now I feel the exhaust note is perfect

@@silverfox1632 thanks, did it affect the power when you did that?

I meant to ask also - did you notice any power gain from the stock exhaust to this one?