Great video sir ! And an awesome explanation of the 4 cycle engine.that degree tool is a great idea and has helped me determine the degrees of ignition and exhaust valve timing on all my Engines.
This is without doubt the clearest explanation about the relationship between crank & ignition/valve timing. Many thanks for spending time for us all. 👍
Great Vajayo! Just got a commercial 20ton press but I know a lot of this info is going to be useful! Love the way you designed a small diameter press adapter from a grade 8 bolt!!!! Note: I saw someone just used tool draw liner to make up the space to take the play out but this is so much better.
If it is a hit and miss engine, I still don't understand why it doesn't fire on every stroke… Why will it coast for a few revolutions and then fire again?
Hello sr I like the video, and I want thank you for the. Time you put to make all details on the presentation, also I like to subscribe to channel and see if. Later you have. Video on how that igniter works cause I don't see spark plug and coil magneto etc , I like to learn on that 120 year engineer cause it works but I just like to know how work thanks ...
An EXCELLENT explanation ! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'll be rebuilding my 1924 one and a half HP John Deere "E" this coming winter. Thanks again !
Nice basic explanation of how a 4 cycle engine works, by also describing how a hit & miss engine works. This is probably the first air cooled hit & miss engine I've seen. I'm assuming that's a little cooling fan next to the cylinder, that's being spun off of the flywheel. How much should you pay for one of these small, old hit & miss engines, assuming it's in good running order, but not necessarily 100% fully rebuilt and repainted?
Just a quick tip... I used to drag race motorcycles (D gas... 500cc). I once had a fella show me how to determine exact TDC on my engines. Take an old spark plug, bust out the guts and tap it for whatever bolt will fit into it. By running the plug/bolt arrangement into the plug hole, you've made an adjustable piston stop. After attaching a degree wheel or even an unmarked disc, you carefully turn the crank BY HAND until it stops against the bolt. Mark your degree wheel or plate at near TDC. Now turn the crank the other direction until it stops again and make a second mark. One half the distance between those two marks or numbers is EXACTLY top dead center. Of course, this only applies to engines with the spark plug in the head. For others... use one of the valve holes with a plate across the head??? PS. Mark, that was the best explanation I've seen on YT of how a 4 stroke works. Great job!
Hi Mark - Many thanks for an easy to understand explanation. I'm about to purchase a 1/4 scale Red Wing casting kit, so your video has been really useful. Cheers Andrew
It's fun being part of the past with these old engines. Your's is a fine example. You may be able to help with a question. I have a similar engine with serial number 337540. I'm wondering what year it was made? Associated, 1&3/4 HP, improved igniter system. Thanks!!! bobh
Mark, Thank you for a fantastic video. I was given a small hit and miss because the fella that had it could not get to run. Before he pulled the remainder of his hair out he gave it to me and said "good luck". From your video I determined that the "dwell" of the exhaust valve was way to much. I lessoned the dwell by adjusting and shortening the "push rod" and retiming it per your video. He had adjusted like you would for a modern engine (to follow the exhaust cam lobe). I worked perfectly after the adjustment. Thank you again! Fred Ontario, NY
I just bought one of these presses this afternoon - I've been putting it off for months, looking at all the vids online. This is the first "new" batch of info/suggestions I've seen. Good stuff - thanks!
Awesome mods you did. I’ll be copying you as I hate the amount of slop these come with out of the box. I’ll also be adding the air/hydraulic ram that HF sells as well. These two mods together should make for a really handy tool. Thx for sharing
10 deg. Is a good place to start because by the time the ignitor spring fires and creates a spark and the fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites the crank will have rotated about 10 deg. Making the power happen at about tdc.
richard vaughn You are correct. By the time the ignitor fires and the fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites the crank will have rotated about 10 deg. Making the power at or close to tdc.
Mark Abner This looks easy. Thats good, because when I took apart this stover ct1 I bought on ebay, I didnt mark the gears. Waiting on rings and gaskets and a fuel tank to come in the mail. Its clean and painted though. Went from an orange patina to a green and silver color scheme. It ran before I took it apart but the bearing were wobbly. The oil ring fell into 5 peices when I took the piston out.
John Carlson on a hit and miss engine you roll the crank to about 20 deg bbc then adjust the exhaust valve nut if needed to just start to open that valve.
Was I the only one yelling at the screen "HEY!! You grabbed the .133! Put it back! Hey! You grabbed the wrong one!" 🤣🤣🤣
Great video buddy. Thank you
watched it again thanks again
Great video sir ! And an awesome explanation of the 4 cycle engine.that degree tool is a great idea and has helped me determine the degrees of ignition and exhaust valve timing on all my Engines.
This is without doubt the clearest explanation about the relationship between crank & ignition/valve timing. Many thanks for spending time for us all. 👍
Good vid! Can’t wait to get me a set of gauge blocks. I have a central machinery, mini mill given to me for free I’ve been learning.
Lathe😅
Dude, I think you grabbed the wrong Block, I think you grabbed 133
Physics at its best. Thank you for explaining how a 4-cycle engine works. I love these hit and miss engines. I will own one somedays... ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thank you!
Good video to do. You don't know till you know.
When I bought my HF press 10 or 12 years ago , I simply tack welded shims in the top moving beam to take the play out ...
Great Vajayo! Just got a commercial 20ton press but I know a lot of this info is going to be useful! Love the way you designed a small diameter press adapter from a grade 8 bolt!!!! Note: I saw someone just used tool draw liner to make up the space to take the play out but this is so much better.
If it is a hit and miss engine, I still don't understand why it doesn't fire on every stroke… Why will it coast for a few revolutions and then fire again?
Hello sr I like the video, and I want thank you for the. Time you put to make all details on the presentation, also I like to subscribe to channel and see if. Later you have. Video on how that igniter works cause I don't see spark plug and coil magneto etc , I like to learn on that 120 year engineer cause it works but I just like to know how work thanks ...
What a GREAT TUTORIAL. Nice to see it explained so well so that some of us amateurs can understand it properly. WELL DONE.....THANK YOU 👍👍👍
An EXCELLENT explanation ! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'll be rebuilding my 1924 one and a half HP John Deere "E" this coming winter. Thanks again !
Nice basic explanation of how a 4 cycle engine works, by also describing how a hit & miss engine works. This is probably the first air cooled hit & miss engine I've seen. I'm assuming that's a little cooling fan next to the cylinder, that's being spun off of the flywheel. How much should you pay for one of these small, old hit & miss engines, assuming it's in good running order, but not necessarily 100% fully rebuilt and repainted?
Just a quick tip... I used to drag race motorcycles (D gas... 500cc). I once had a fella show me how to determine exact TDC on my engines. Take an old spark plug, bust out the guts and tap it for whatever bolt will fit into it. By running the plug/bolt arrangement into the plug hole, you've made an adjustable piston stop. After attaching a degree wheel or even an unmarked disc, you carefully turn the crank BY HAND until it stops against the bolt. Mark your degree wheel or plate at near TDC. Now turn the crank the other direction until it stops again and make a second mark. One half the distance between those two marks or numbers is EXACTLY top dead center. Of course, this only applies to engines with the spark plug in the head. For others... use one of the valve holes with a plate across the head??? PS. Mark, that was the best explanation I've seen on YT of how a 4 stroke works. Great job!
Hi Mark - Many thanks for an easy to understand explanation. I'm about to purchase a 1/4 scale Red Wing casting kit, so your video has been really useful. Cheers Andrew
for a great "Finale" you could have run the engine-would have been fun. Anyway, great video...thanks.
Good thinking, good work too... Thanks for sharing. I saw the modified jack valve handle... How did you do that?
It's fun being part of the past with these old engines. Your's is a fine example. You may be able to help with a question. I have a similar engine with serial number 337540. I'm wondering what year it was made? Associated, 1&3/4 HP, improved igniter system. Thanks!!! bobh
BOA EXPLICAÇÃO DO FUNCIONAMENTO DESTE MOTOR, BRASIL OK.
Mark, Thank you for a fantastic video. I was given a small hit and miss because the fella that had it could not get to run. Before he pulled the remainder of his hair out he gave it to me and said "good luck". From your video I determined that the "dwell" of the exhaust valve was way to much. I lessoned the dwell by adjusting and shortening the "push rod" and retiming it per your video. He had adjusted like you would for a modern engine (to follow the exhaust cam lobe). I worked perfectly after the adjustment. Thank you again! Fred Ontario, NY
I just bought one of these presses this afternoon - I've been putting it off for months, looking at all the vids online. This is the first "new" batch of info/suggestions I've seen. Good stuff - thanks!
Awesome mods you did. I’ll be copying you as I hate the amount of slop these come with out of the box. I’ll also be adding the air/hydraulic ram that HF sells as well. These two mods together should make for a really handy tool. Thx for sharing
thank you sir
Good video, hopefully I'll be able to get my Galloway running, thanks!
10 deg. Is a good place to start because by the time the ignitor spring fires and creates a spark and the fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites the crank will have rotated about 10 deg. Making the power happen at about tdc.
Does it have to be 10 degrees because of the time it takes the igniter to spring? I always thought that it was supposed to fire at tdc.
richard vaughn You are correct. By the time the ignitor fires and the fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites the crank will have rotated about 10 deg. Making the power at or close to tdc.
Mark Abner This looks easy. Thats good, because when I took apart this stover ct1 I bought on ebay, I didnt mark the gears. Waiting on rings and gaskets and a fuel tank to come in the mail. Its clean and painted though. Went from an orange patina to a green and silver color scheme. It ran before I took it apart but the bearing were wobbly. The oil ring fell into 5 peices when I took the piston out.
At what time do you adjust the rods that have threads
John Carlson on a hit and miss engine you roll the crank to about 20 deg bbc then adjust the exhaust valve nut if needed to just start to open that valve.
Very nice engine. Thanks for posting.