⬇️⬇️Detailed description of the procedure with timestamps ⬇️⬇️
0:00 - Making a double texture climbing hold using Maple wood scraps from violins, violas, and cellos.
0:13 - Fit and glue the various offcuts together up to the required dimensions (glue used: Titebond "Original"). Flatten the base of the hold (Stanley 9 1/2 blockplane)
0:37 - Trace the rough profile of the hold to outline the parts to be sawn off and roughly cut with band saw - Drill the screw holes, 20mm for the washer and 10mm (through) for the screw - Insert the washer, securing it in place with cyanoacrylate glue and the screw (M10 Allen key)
1:21 - Rough-out with a chisel - Shape the grip part with a rasp (cut #3), to be left strictly finished with rasp marks to increase the roughness and improve the friction in the case of bare wood, or to help the anchoring of the subsequent layers in the case of double texture
2:11 - Roughing of the external surface with fingerplanes
2:22 - Roughing with a Microplane rasp
2:39 - Roughing with a flat rasp (cut #3) - Finishing with a fine rasp (cut #10) - Finishing with a very fine rasp (Sandplate)
3:03 - Sanding with a sandpaper sponge (100 grit) - Sanding with sandpaper (180 grit) - Wet with cold water to make the surface swell, let dry completely - Final sanding with sandpaper (180 grit)
3:36 - Finished hold and drilling for the wood screws - 10mm for the washers and 5 mm (through) for the screws - Insert the washers, fixing them in place with cyanoacrylate glue and the screws (5 mm wood screws)
4:16 - Finished hold with washers glued in place
4:22 - Preparation and application of the vinyl glue diluted with water (water-resistant Tytan WB33). The surface will absorb this first layer and serve to improve the anchoring of the subsequent undiluted layer
4:42 - Application of the layer of undiluted vinyl glue and sand. Immediately after spreading the glue, dust several times with plenty of fine sand (washed and sieved), until a homogeneous layer is formed. Allow to dry completely
5:28 - Application of the colored layer, obtained by mixing the vinyl glue with concentrated matte black acrylic color. Allow to dry completely
6:00 - Smoothing the edge of the "sandy" layer with sandpaper, to eliminate any roughness that is too aggressive for the skin. Gently sand only the transition edge with the wood without ruining the grain of the "sandy" surface
6:17 - Apply the final coat of vinyl glue diluted with water (not colored). Let dry overnight.
6:42 - Wash the hold and brush the "sandy" part. Using a toothbrush, gently brush the surface in running water to remove part of the final vinyl layer, exposing some sand crystals, to avoid the "plastic" effect to the touch and obtain a feeling of optimal friction. Let dry completely
7:00 - Finished "sandy" layer
7:12 - Fire branding
7:18- Final protective treatment with linseed oil - Apply cooked linseed oil, diluted if necessary with turpentine essence, only on the bare wood surface. Apply it generously and evenly with a brush, taking care not to contaminate the "sandy" part. Wait a few moments to let it absorb a little and go over it again with a rag to let it penetrate well, eliminating any excess from the surface. It will take several days for the oil to dry completely, exposure to UVA rays accelerates drying.
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