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and for your sleepers - you could use this approach (diy garden bed boxes) with some more substantial rebar in it - cost of materials is about $22 per sleeper from HD (7" tall x 2" deep x 60" long) if you use teh method he shows in Part 4 of the series - ua-cam.com/play/PLZIMIDEiQu3IwuRHd8teRV0VFOT5ldHK2.html - I'm looking at buildinga 48' long wall 36" tall using the sutter posts and diy sleepers - good luck!

@@AussieInSeattle Thanks for the reply. I watched his series & a couple of the vids multiple times. I settled on making a melamine form that makes 4 at a time & sleepers are 60"x 8x 4. 2pcs rebar. Mix is 2 bags "regular" 2L cement 2L CSA flow enhancer & 2oz basalt fiber. I keep them wet while they dry & they can be demolded in about 6 hours (but I usually do just batch per day). I did a test batch last fall & let them sit out all winter (lots of hot/cold cycles). No visible damage. I cantilevered one & stacked 10 sacks on the end.. no visible bending/cracking. I found a local importer of "super posts" & am driving those every 30" on a slight inward angle (about 10deg). The sleepers will simply rest against them. They have holes in them... so I may bolt a steel cable near the tops of them & anchor the other end 5-10ft back into the gravel base I back fill with.

tape a piece of wood about 20 or 30mm thick 1mtr up the spirit level

Pretty sure it’s just resting on the fence as it’s colourblond, against a timber fence I’d recommend using some recycled pieces of timber as it will do the same job and cost a fraction of using same Material as the front

Thank you. Very helpful. What diameter do the holes need to be bored for the steel posts if the finished wall is under 1m tall? The diameter quoted in the video seems a lot.

@@DavesShed: Suspect that you need to work on a 2 times multiplier with the hole that you need to put down., So, if you are using a 100 mm steel, you need to go 2 times the thickness of the biggest dimension on the width and height of the steel. Not the length... So, if the largest dimension is 100 mm, you would go 200 mm either side of the steel, plus the dimension of the steel you are working off, so a 500 mm hole would need to be drilled to a minimum of equal the height of the wall, plus 10%. Steel should never rest on the bottom of the hole! So, for a 1 metre high wall, you would go down 1 metre, plus 10% of 1 metre, which is 100 mm. The reason why so big? If your retaining wall , at 1 metre high, has a solid fence put on top, which does often happen, you need to ensure that the wind will not blow the wall over! Do not laugh, as this has been seen to happen! Much to the disgust of the client, and the embarrasment / oops! of the contractor!

@@111jacare The length (depth) is clear for me. What is unclear is the diameter of the hole. The way I was taught to determine the depth was 1:1+ 100mm for retaining wall height PLUS 1:0.5 for fence. So a 800mm wall plus 1200mm fence would be 800 + 600 + 100 = 1500mm deep hole. but what I'm unclear about is the dimeter of that hole because in the past I've always done wooden posts. With the steel H posts, I think they are 100mm wide? I am hoping that a 200mm auger will be enough.

No corrosion mate reinforced steel is encompassed by the concrete the posts are installed at the sleeper length no cutting

Top of the post?

He added pipe directly behind it then filled it with gravel. Then you add a couple inches topsoil for the foot or so behind the gravel fill. That’s how it should be done and how I believe he was saying but just didn’t show it.

CO2 is plant food; not some toxic gas. But your points on wall construction are appreciated🤔

It is okay to use timber... until the white ants / termites attack! I have seen wandoo sleepers, with a density rating of 1500, eaten hollow by white ants. Jarrah sleepers fare worse, as their density rating is only 800. Pine? Don't even go there!!!

@@Xalta_Sailor You're right! It's not the CO2 that's the problem. Without CO2 the world would be freezing and dead because CO2 traps the sun's warmth vital for life. But, the benefits of CO2 are constrained by water and heat. As you pass 40 degress celcius, the proteins in plants denature (cook), and photosynthesis starts to slow and eventually stop (leading to plant death). High CO2 without water is highly problematic! The reason CO2 emissions matter in the atmosphere is as it goes up it results in too much trapped heat. This leads to big changes to the hydrological cycle (more extreme rain, and less rain in between) and increases the frequency of extreme heat. Bottom line: emissions matter!

No it wouldnt

for every 16mm vertical there needs to be 1mm of lean to the post. e.g. a 1000mm high wall will lean back 160mm

Thanks Keegan. Really helpful. Especially with the example!

Keegan Barns Your example math is incorrect. You would push back 63mm if you have a 1000mm high wall. 1000/16 =62.5

Unit doesn't matter, whichever you use you'll get the same result. If your batter is say 1 to 6 (common for dry stone retaining walls), it simply means for every 6 units up there's 1 unit lean back. For every 6 cm/feet/meters/inches/millimeters/whatever, you lean back 1 of the same unit. The bigger number is height, the smaller number is lean back. So, for the examples in the video 1:16 or 1:10 means, for every 16 or 10 units you go up, you go 1 unit back. Be it inch, feet, centimeter, millimeter, ... it's all the same. As long as you use the same unit for both numbers.

☝🏼 Hes right. I just know it💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽

I would guess a steel supplier ? We did one with regular steel and pressure treated wood 21yrs ago and is still going strong.

bunnings sells H and C posts

This system isn’t suitable for all soil types. One of its only disadvantages is the need to be able to dig down as deep. A block wall could be a more suitable option for you because the footing it sits on will be shallower but it will need to be wider on the contrary. Each system has its pros and cons. It is definitely not a “one size fits all” situation, food for thought any ways… good luck 👍🏻

@@hendrikkruk8322 hi there, thank you for your reply. Can you send me photos or link of what block wall you are referring too? Kind regards

@@niknik3520 it depends on how many holes you can get as close to depth as possible. Also will the wall be under high levels of pressure structurally,, or is it's purpose more cosmetic? After initial excavation in shale it's unlikely ground will shift forward. So if you cannot get all holes to full depth you may consider reducing space between posts for extra strength. You'd have to get all holes no less than 75% off required depth.

Use a auger to dig the posts and u can hire them for cheap

The dude literally said to do that exact thing... 😂

Retainer wall is not a fence

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thomas & associates from Kurri Kurri Hunter Valley

Depends on height but I leave about 200mm from the top with the last 1m high wall I did. I fill the gap at the top with top soil. As long as there is sufficient room for the water to drain down.

@@barakau Just be sure that you wrap the geofabric back to the wall over the top of the aggregate to prevent the soil getting in.

Fill about 1 third of the height with drainage gravel. Then the remainder with free draining material. Hope that helps!

Nowhere as far as I can tell. I've been looking too. I haven't seen the I-Beams or H posts, as they call them, either. I believe they are similar, if not the same, as a galvanized guardrail post. There are a few sites that sell reclaimed guardrails and posts which would likely work for a short retaining wall but it wouldn't be nearly as attractive in my opinion. I'd love to hear if there is a source here in the USA for the concrete sleepers and/or H posts if anyone knows of one.

@@Machinati It's a system commonly used in Australia and New Zealand, in the US landscapers tend to use the stacked block walls you see everywhere there. In my country Netherlands retaining walls are usually made from stacked concrete elements, stone filled mesh baskets or masonry walls, but I liked the Australian system for its looks and ease of construction because of the relatively low weight of the materials, and the amount of earth that needs to be moved is less than with other construction methods as no full length concrete foundation is needed, just the holes for the posts. So I looked for steel H column in a standard 100mm size (4 inches) and ordered these galvanised from a steel merchant in the desired lengths. The infill I use are thick hardwood timber, as it does look very nice and is easier to handle when building the wall on your own, the hardwood is 50mmx150mm in size (2x6 in US sizes) and length is kept to 1m ( 3'4") between posts to be strong enough against the pressure of the soil. Beneath the surface I use concrete pavement edging slabs 6" deep to prevent any aggregate from slipping underneath the wall to the low side, the slabs are the same length as the timbers. You should be able to get these materials separately in the US from a steel merchant and timber yard, the use of real railroad ties between posts is an option too, but the H-column must be of an appropriate size for the ties to fit in, a 6"x6" or 8"x8" H column may be needed for that. Bear in mind that the space inside the flanges of the H is less than the column size, for my 4"x4" H column this is about 3" between the flanges, the remaining space when sliding the 2" thick timber in is filled wit 1" battens screwed to the inside

In the USA call wheeler metals. For the H beam about $12 a ft right now

@@Machinati I-beams are sometimes called universal beams or RSJs here in Australia too. Maybe ask a steel supplier in the states about them and see what they've got?

Note that all the posts are galvanised and designed for this application here in Australia.