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Clintronics RVA
Приєднався 1 бер 2014
Marshall Warranty, Audio Electronics repair, 30 years experience as a tech. Clintronics.com is based in Richmond, VA.
I don't make these to teach people that don't know electronics how to. A lot of my videos are boring examples of which wire goes where. Stuff I or other techs might need to reference.
Working with electricity is dangerous, don't do it unless you are trained.
I don't make these to teach people that don't know electronics how to. A lot of my videos are boring examples of which wire goes where. Stuff I or other techs might need to reference.
Working with electricity is dangerous, don't do it unless you are trained.
Відео
BOGNER UBERSCHALL REPAIR
Переглядів 62Місяць тому
Smoked around the fuse holder area. Make sure output transformer is normal.
MARSHALL CODE50 whats inside look like?
Переглядів 765 місяців тому
MARSHALL CODE50 whats inside look like?
FENDER HOT ROD DEVILLE repair
Переглядів 1596 місяців тому
LED not lit. No channel switching, then motorboating (HUM oscillation?)
VIVOHOME 10 Inch x 20.75 Seedling Heat Mat and 40-108°F Digital Thermostat Controller Combo Set
Переглядів 727 місяців тому
How many mats can the controller run at one time?
RANE ONE fader repair service notes
Переглядів 5078 місяців тому
DJ ROCK CEE has a great video on HOW TO ua-cam.com/video/BrB3F-DTcsQ/v-deo.html my vid is just some mental notes I made for myself RANE does NOT sell replacement faders for this model. They want you to buy the entire circuit board which they didnt have in stock at the time of this repair.
Mackie SA1232 repair
Переглядів 4509 місяців тому
Fuse not blown but power light doesnt come on. No audio. Main Board: Q26 TIP122, Q27 TIP127, Q28 BC547, R45 10R 1W, R50 10R 1W Input board: R53 2R2 .5W, R54 2R2 .5W, ICs are NE5532
Marshall JCM2000 DSL401 clicking no audio
Переглядів 489Рік тому
Marshall JCM2000 DSL401 clicking no audio
Marshall JCM2000 DSL401repair. reverb stuck on.
Переглядів 140Рік тому
Marshall JCM2000 DSL401repair. reverb stuck on.
i need some of help... in my case... the amp was not used since long years ago. The clean channel sounds Perfect but the boost channel not work fine... sounds very low volume.. with aleatory noise and with a lot of power less, I have circuit diagrams. Any ideas where I should start? I'm almost sure the problem is NOT With the tubes. Prior to the failure, it has been used moderately... no more than 2 years...
Thats not a knob
Just bought one.
Hi Slightly different but i had an issue and wgen putting back together i slipped with screwdriver And i have damaged R157 and C132 on the board I dont spose u would know the value of R157 i cant identify the top any more thats all
Really wish there was a total break down of the kc 350, I have a burned resistor and I'm a novice but I know how to solder. So just needed a step by step break down. Cool video tho!
Just keep in mind, resistors burn up because something else is shorted/drawing too much current through it.
@clintronicsrva ohh for real?! Hmmm, how would I be able to figure that out or pin point the culprit?..... The issue I was getting while using it were loud popping sounds, like a camp fire sound effect, hissing and popping.
I had one of these come in, it would distort with higher input i.e. hard strumming and it would not get loud. All I did was to use Deoxit D100 on the ribbon cable connectors and it was fixed immediately.
Do you have a schemtics which you can share ?
No, Markbass doesnt release schematics.
How can I send my speakers in
I have a DSL100H, manufactured 3/2017 so not too old, bought from a college kid. I tested it before I left his house and brought it home. Never loved the tone, my MG15 with a pedal sounded more Marshall and it’s a solid state. Long story short I bought the DSL20HR, and it blew away my DSL100H. Comparing these two amps, same cabs I though I may have a blown speaker I the cab connected to the 100, so swapping cables back and forth I must’ve had an opened circuit with the speaker cable not connected to a cab between swaps and I killed it. After checking the speakers in the cab and ohms, I discovered a kinda loose spade connector so I tightened it up and made sure all others were tight but no sound. Again long story short tried both cabs, no sound. But the DSL20HR is perfect. Tubes in the 100 are a couple weeks old, matched JJs. I think I must have blown a transformer, hopefully not the circuit board. I want the DSL100HR anyway, but this is one hell of a way to force the issue. Open speaker cable from the amp, what’s the most likely cause of no sound? Tubes all glowing evenly and matched sets.
I am going to guess your cabinet isnt 16 ohm. Plug your cab in the 16 ohm jack on the dsl100 , turn the amp volume down just for this test and tell me if the audio comes back on. If it does then you need to replace the 16 ohm jack
copilot says: A bad ground in the 16 ohm jack of a Marshall amp can cause issues with the output. This jack often acts as a switch, opening the ground circuit to the 4/8 ohm jacks when something is plugged in1. If the contacts in the 16 ohm jack are dirty or damaged, it can disrupt the grounding and affect the performance1. You might want to try cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner and unplugging and replugging your cables a few times to remove any grime. If that doesn't help, replacing the jack might be necessary2.
@@clintronicsrva for some reason I had the jack for 8 ohms on the amp connected to the 16 ohm jack on the cab. It’s a 16 ohm cabinet. It’s working fine now. Oddly since the 50w side was not functioning, I flipped the switch to 100w and viola the amp works fine. I’ve gone back and forth to the 50 and it’s fine. I have no answer for this. I had pulled the speaker cable off to inspect and test the speakers. I found a very loose spade connector and tightened them all up. Plugged back in and no worky. Weird. Works better than ever now. Thanks for your suggestions! 🙏☝️
Thank you for the video 👍
😳😳😳😳😳😖😖😖😖
Hello how are you? I have the same problem and the video works perfectly, but when I press GND I hear a loud noise, what could it be?
Tonearm may float freely but this alone doesn't necessary mean the bearings are okay. Try wiggling the tonearm by gently grabbing it near the pivot point. If there is any audible or perceptible play then the bearings are probably damaged or someone has tried to adjust them already. Very very minuscule play may be okay (still better than skipping stylus) but it shows there has been a problem.
1/10th of a penny across 100,000 units is 10,000 pennies, or $100 dollars.
Wish i could hear it. Ill try latet with headphones
This amp uses DC for the preamp heaters, so the caps/diodes you replaced were all part of that circuit. Makes sense that it's quieter afterwards, good stuff 👍
Hi there thanks so much! my nephew asked me to repair his ALTO TS308 that had never worked, I followed your procedure (I could see the burnt out components on the board) and now it's working.
hello what is the problem with my 1501? He sounds okay when at low volume but when his volume is more than half. It's shrill. the sound is like a cracking
Holy Toledo!!! This worked for us! Thank you greatly bud!
Ts 310 amplifier on signal shown led LF & HF ok but no sound reason pls tell me .and make vedio shown problem
I have the same problem with my LD ICOA 12A-BT. From the power supply output has +15 and -15 volt and 3.3 volt, but the LCD Screen on the input board doesn't turn on. Any suggestions?
So you’re not gonna show us how it actually works?
Tengo problemas con uno que se plive rojo de protección al escucharlo. Y después se se protege y cuando está sonando. Se clipe y se queda pegado
you did not set bias on vr166 and vr43 ??
good morning sir thanks to share vedio nice your explanation, ihave questions to my power amplifier qsc plx3002 done replace regulator and rgvt transistor and ir 0121, sg3525an and i check the power supply section is no shorted and the output transistor ic all okey no shorted the primary power supply turn on good supply but not secondary not comes supply sir , how to determine problem thanks
Hey hello just found your video, i have a similar problem my alto ts412 signal/limit light is constantally on and no audio signal is connceted to the speaker , i have tried turning it on and off but immediately its on the led signal light comes up. What should i do ?your response will be highly appreciated
is it normal that with the second click can cause the speaker to have a crackle at the start ?
the crackle is most likely already there and the 2nd click just lets it pass to your speaker
I have the same issue and ty for the video. Where can I get these capacitors at
I get caps at mouser.com
@@clintronicsrva I changed the caps, still.not working. I'm stuck
@clintronicsrva yep it worked and then the next day was dead!
The real question is why does this happen? Happens on mine every couple of years.
Well, it's not worth getting junk IMO.
I don’t know much about electronics, but my better judgment tells me that this is really stupid. Yes, it will work… But at what cost?
Great video, thanks for posting 🤘🏽
I’m having the same issue. I replaced the O2 sensor for bank 1 sensor one and still getting an “open circuit” code. 2009 BMW 328xi coupe.
So glad you posted this
The SR two is a great machine, but these faders are a pain because they have to be soldered
I need this gray part
K E W L .
Bom dia,estou com um amplificador desse pra conserto,está com o Viper torrado e o optacoplador Conseguiria me passar a numeração desses componentes?
Can you help? I have a bx8a with a 15 amp fuse. The problem is the power cables here in the UK are all 13 amp. Can I still use the 13amp cables without over heating? Unfortunately I no longer own the original cable that came with the speaker.
sure, Theres no way this unit draws 13 amps when operating normally. If it makes you nervous then put a 12A fuse in it.
The current I in amps (A) is equal to the power P in watts (W) divided by the voltage V in volts (V): 130w/240v=.54A
How did you get these pointer knobs? Edit: Oh nvm, CR20ldx has those.
Hi Clint, I have an active pa speaker, which I've repaired as a hobbyist. Although it now powers up and no longer blows fets, the tweeter runs for about a minute and then clicks and turns to a low volume hiss. Have you come across this issue at all, I've can't isolate what's causing it
try it with a diff tweeter. If it still does this then it sounds like its going into protect and youre back to square one. might need someone with schematics to fix it.
Where do you buy replacements (for my djm s-11, which looks the same as yours).
I just google it and see who's selling what. I dont have a pio supplier.
What are the specs for all the replacement bulbs?
No idea, bought them off of ebay
Hello again , I just retested it and found that channel 2 also has white noise but not as much
fishman doent release schematics. But they will answer your question if you email them
I have a loudbox performer 700bt with the same problem in channel 1 but i don't see a Q10 in it . Can you tell which component I need . Thanks , Mitch
Yep, many of these ended up like this and are pure junk/not worth repair :(
I have my sr .. they have power but they dont detect in my pc
Is there any room on top to put a on/off toggle switch to run power? I can't stand the one's on the back of amps much like Laney and Fenders.
Im sure one could be squeezed in somewhere.
You connect the 15v split supply .where is the pin for 3.5v?
Do you have a speaker (load) connected? And do you have the Master Volume all the way down?
no load needed and it doesnt hurt to turn volumes down
Hello! I was interested in the design. I just want to understand, are the speakers completely closed in the box on the reverse side? QSC Ksub
yes