Відео

Love it!. Do you have ventilation?

ALL You Are is a P1G - Following Step-by-Step Instructions. Thats ALL You Can Do. Silver Chloride is Light Sensitive - Thats The Photographic Paper. NaOH - Thats - What Oxidises The Paper & Allows your Coffee To Stain Your Photographic Paper. Silver Chloride is Light Sensitive. Parts of The Paper That are Exposed To Light. The Silver Chloride will be Removed. NaOH and Coffee - will Darken the Image - There. INSTEAD OF USING "WASHING MACHINE POWDER" - USE "LYE" - DRAIN CLEANER. Its Stronger. You're MIXING The Vitamin C Tablets with Your DEVELOPER (NaOH). That Vitamin C, gets Neutralised. Its Better to Keep it Separate. USE "BATTERY ACID" - H2SO4. THE H2SO4 - WILL REMOVE THE UNEXPOSED - Silver Chloride. This will Help with CONTRAST. Use CaCO3 (Calcium Carbonate - Limestone) - To Neutralise the H2SO4 (Battery Acid). THIS WILL - IMPROVE - YOUR HOME MADE: PHOTO Process.

Really informative. Does the developer have to be at a certain temperature?

Does this work for color film or just BALCK and white

will thgis work for amonia dichromate plates? great video

Hello What kind of lens was is? Do you think magnifier will work? thank you

The photo it will fade after few years. What an improvement. Poverty is the future.

You can also buy two uncut lenses for glasses, fi=5cm. Put them in a tube. In the middle you can install iris made of black paper. Inside paint black. Best results as far as image field is concern, and quality.Very cheap.

Great images Brendan… where would someone get photographic paper that size! Is it a special order? Must cost a fortune - or do you coat your own paper? Cheers

Muy interesante tu vídeo. Una buena manera de aprender y entretenerse. Saludos desde España.

Hi can I use paper a4 ? Pleas 😢

What the hell is WASHING SODA CHRYSTALS

My photo paper is Ilford MGRC (Multigrade Resin Coated) and I wonder if I can use as a safelight in the dark room simply a red hiking head lamp, like the author of the video. The package of my photo paper says it requires "safelight 902 (light brown)". What safelights do you use and for what photo papers?

amazing

wow

incredible

Please do not use metal stuff for making caffenol, metals are killing vitamin C

I've used Caffenol off and on for decades when I just want to goof off. Once I just threw everything together without measuring and used tap water that was way off temp. The result was just like when I did it according to the instructions. Caffenol is a serious developer and works better than some commercial developers. But over all I prefer HC-110. obviously a lot of people feel this way because HC-110 is usually out-of-stock.

My personal take on this right or wrong is, it's kind of amazing how we have all these developers today for simple B&W developing with claims of this or that when in essence developer is developer. What really matters is paper/film, exposure, developing and fixer times. Developer either develops or it doesn't. Fixer either fixes or it doesn't.

A little nitpicking, but finding cardboard pieces big enough to cover a window is anything but easy. I tried to find some a couple of years ago (but not for making a camera obscura), and asked in so many stores that couldn't give it to me that I finally gave up.

Lol, at 10.15mins 'darkroom is dark'...No light leaks like a sieve. Peace

Dude what's going on with your mixed colour temperatures in your red safe light @ 09.45mins? Respectfully, I'm guessing you were locked down during COVID...

this is incredible work Brendan. So much effort put in and in the end it's worth it. What a craftsmanship!!

Expose a sheet of luminous plotter film and take a digital photo of it glowing. Easy way to capture an image or check for light leaks in a medium format or large format camera. No chemicals needed. Similar exposure as a UV dry plate and re-usable.

Hey, I just stumbled upon your channel and I am so glad I did. I was thinking of starting to shoot on big direct positive photo papers, but the size I want to capture is larger than the Harman offers. I was wondering if there is an emulsion of some kind, that I can apply on surfaces to take photos on, because I want to control the parts I want to get exposed. Thanks for the great content. I appreciate it.

How awesome! Thanks for doing this video. Your final photo looks like it needs that girl from the movie "The Ring" standing in the window across the street!

Will this process work with Black & White negative film rolls of Fomapan 200?

Hello Thanks for your video, Question: would this process work with positive direct paper? please reply Thanks Marco in the USA

I've got smart LED bulbs in my room, would it be okay if I just set them to red to illuminate my dark room?

Great video

Nice video! Thanks

Amazing Video! I was hooked! You made it seem so accessible, can't wait to try it

From the fact that she photographs with her phone in the darkroom you can see the negro girl understood nothing. I highly doubt she had her phone wrapped in red foil.

ah mate, this is fantastic - such a cool project!

does the developer and fixer work for film instead of paper?

I'm impressed

can i do this for 120 film too? instead of the chemicals to I put these materials?

WTF?

Awesome and well done! Love the results on the Direct Positive.

can i use bicarbonate soda instead of soda crystals?

Thanks! Used your method to develop the first photos from my pinhole camera! I took the paper out of the salt water fixer after an hour and scanned them, then put it back in for 24hours.When I took them out and rinsed them, I noticed that they developed some pink blotches within an hour of so of hanging out to dry. Any idea what may have caused it, and how to avoid it? (All is not lost though - I did scan the photos first, and they came out great!)

Cool Brendon very interesting 😊👍🏻

🌼

Awesome work, and great negative! Wondering what you're using for a projection/process lens?

Does this work for developing canister flim

I’ve used this method twice now using phot paper from my pinhole camera and the first photo was way over exposed and the second photos where way under exposed. I’m trying it again right now. Any idea what’s going on?

Cool idea and images, but there was a ton of that stuff being done in the late 60's and 70's. I was going through an MFA program in the erly 70's and was into all of it. Later, I taught it to thousands of students. I even turned our darkroom into a huge camera obscura. So, the way I look at it now is, it was fun, it was cool, it captured their imaginations, it kept them interested and motivated, but long term the art world rejected it, so I'm glad I didn't go down that road with my personal work.

Bots are getting bugged

whats that first lens? did you make it? out of different pieces?

Brendan, you continue to amaze me. I so wish I lived closer and could be a part of this work. Truly fantastic.