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Hola Francisco, no sé muy bien a qué te refieres. ¿Tienes una radio GPS posventa? ¿Has comprobado el fusible? La radio también puede tener un fusible adicional.

Hallo Jochen, herzlichen Dank dass Du Dir die Zeit genommen hast mir dein tolles Feedback zu schreiben, das freut mich wirklich sehr! :)

Hever?

What diagram?

@@garagen-schrauber nevermind, I put it back now, I was looking for diagram of serpentine belt around the pulleys

Grazie mille per l'apprezzamento, sono lieto di essere stato d'aiuto :)

Hey Amando, that doesn't sound good. I've also had problems where all kinds of warning lights came on and the car drove badly. In my case, a faulty alternator caused overvoltage and damaged the engine control unit. I then had to send it in for repair. However, the error codes you mentioned all relate to the throttle valve or the EGR valve. I would therefore start looking here. First of all, check the connectors, has one of them slipped off or has a cable been worn through or ripped? Depending on what kind of test device you have, you can also look at the position of the throttle valve when the engine is running and see whether it moves as it should when you accelerate. However, this assumes that the engine starts. Is your car still not starting? Please keep us up to date with your troubleshooting, I wish you every success and if you have any questions, please get in touch! :)

@@garagen-schrauber hey! Thanks for the reply. So, I think this is an electrical/bad ground issue. I tried starting the car today, and it started fine, but I used a different key, not sure if that's related. I've been trying in previous days and it didn't work at all until today. two of the previous codes are gone. My code reader did pick out two new codes, but no warning lights were on. Voltage with the car on was 14.27v, alternator seems fine. Battery is running nearly flat, and I have a replacement already in the garage, but I connected it in parallel previously to make sure the issue wasn't just a flat battery. The two new codes are: P0560 - system voltage; P0606 - control module processor; The P0487 - EGR throttle control remains. Car drives fine once it's on. Plenty of power, smooth engine, no differences from how it's always driven. I do have to say, I haven't heard the throttle body swing from close - open - close for a very long time. A couple of years ago something was up with the ground, and everything electric stopped working. All my blinkers/headlights had to be replaced. I suppose there could be something else here. I never fixed it, it just "fixed itself". If I park on a hill with the front of the car up, I tend to have issues. If I park with the front pointing down, it always starts. haha

Someone in my family actually had the problem with parking on a hill, but it was a while ago and I didn't know anything about cars back then. Never figured out why 😂 But back to your error codes: The P0606 indicates that the ECU is faulty. However, I've done a bit of research and there are also a few alternatives that only make the ECU think it's broken. Firstly, a faulty battery: it's best to replace it if you haven't already done so. Or a ground connection problem in general, if you say you've had problems with it before. Check the battery cables. A defective throttle valve control or EGR control can also cause the P0606 error. Disconnect the two connectors one after the other and see what happens. The car will probably go into limp mode, but it should start. Will new or different error codes then appear?

@@garagen-schrauber The battery is definitely nearly dead, I'm honestly surprised it still starts, as it shows 12.3-12.2 volts at rest. Besides that, something is up with either ground or one of the positive leads coming out of it. I wiggled the whole positive side assembly and it's been running fine with no errors for over a week. It could be something wrong with the battery internally I suppose (which could be angle dependant?), will put the replacement in and see how it develops. Thanks! :)

Thank you very much for your great feedback, I put a lot of effort into editing and dubbing my videos the way I would like the repairs to be explained to me and I am pleased that this is appreciated! :)

You´re welcome, I´m happy that my video helped :)

Thanks a lot for the feedback :) Yes, there are dummy antennas that look like the original, this one for example: amzn.to/3Y1wGw3

Sehr gerne, vielen Dank für das Feedback :)

Great to hear, thanks for the feedback! :)

I would go with what´s the cheapest antenna you can find in the colour of your vehicle. This one for example for 9€: amzn.to/3XKl4NO It has some bad reviews because the signal is not good. But that's irrelevant for us because we only use it as a cover for the original antenna. People also say that it doesn't stick well. But this is also a problem with the more expensive products I´m sure. Either buy additional 3M adhesive tape (amzn.to/3BfxNR2) or use some silicone or automotive glue (amzn.to/3N0LfuM).

Vielen Dank :)

Yes, absolutely, I think that's a one-off. Normally, every manufacturer wants to stand out from the competition. But as you say, it's a big advantage for us hobby mechanics, firstly because of the spare parts, but also because of the instructions for repairs, troubleshooting information and so on. MrBongblazer our man for body panels 😂👍

Hey Ivan, have you found the error? Gladly update us!

Das ist ein guter Tipp, danke! :)

Thanks a lot for the great feedbak! :)

Hi Kyle, try removing the cylinder anyway by pushing back the locking bracket with a bent metal or allen key as shown in the video. Although on my model the key has to be turned to unlock the cylinder, I have often read on the internet that the key must be in the off position. Maybe you'll be lucky and this will also work with your car. I know it's frustrating because it's really difficult to reach and if you're not even sure if it will work, you'll tend to give up even quicker. But give it a try. Otherwise, please get in touch again! Best of luck!

Hey Michael, thanks a lot for the awesome feedback, I´m really happy that my video helped! :)

Hello Bernhard, that's strange. I don't have any problems with squeaking noises with my two Saabs. However, I did read about squeaking when I was researching for the video. Maybe the bolts have come slightly loose and the large washer has a bit of play and is now rubbing against the frame and making the noise. Could that be the case? Please give us an update if you find out anything!

Thanks a lot for your comment, I really appreciate the praise and that my video was able to help! In principle, it's not a complicated repair. Once the old bearings are out, you're almost there. Have you seen my video on the DIY press out tool? That will make it easier for you. If you need the adapter sleeves for the center bushings or have any other questions, please get in touch :)

Dziękuję bardzo, cieszę się, że mogłem pomóc :)

Das freut mich 👍Vielen Dank für dein Feedback! :)

Yes, for the cleaning I used brake cleaner because it dissolves and removes dirt and old grease :)

@@garagen-schrauber I just thought I heard something else in the video but yes I understand all of that. Thanks.

You´re welcome! If you have any further questions, please get back to me :)

@@garagen-schrauber Have you ever tried to repair a front passenger seat that has got stuck in the rail on a Saab 9-3 1997-1998 model? It's not electrical seats, only mechanical.

@@MrUnknownName I have not, sorry. However, I have previously removed the seats on my 95, there are only 4 screws that secure the seat including the rails in the car. If you remove the seat (as long as you can get to all 4 screws in the current seat position) you may find it easier to find the cause and fix it. Keep us updated! :) If the 93 has a side airbag in the seat, you should disconnect the battery before starting the repair and wait a little before disconnecting the plug of the seat.

Hey, thank you for your comment! All the hoses I replaced were 4mm. I wouldn't replace 6mm hoses with 4mm hoses either. I think the 6mm hoses are made of a different material, they are stronger, so they didn't break on me. Unfortunately I can't find an overview of which hoses in the engine compartment are 4mm and which are 6mm. The best thing to do is to measure after you have removed the old hose. I hope this has helped you a little :)

@@garagen-schrauber I been looking for same info and hard to find :)

Hey Tommy, thanks for your comment! That is really inconvenient that the lock can no longer be turned at all. Have you tried spraying a little oil into the cylinder from above? This could help to loosen the pins enough to turn the key.

Thanks! I will try that.👍

Thanks for the great feedback, I´m happy the video helped :)

I´m happy the video helped :) Thanks for your comment!

Hi Mustafa, I think it was like 3mm or so. Must fit in the hole and not too small so that it won´t bend or brake 👍🏻

Hey, thanks for your comment! Of course I could print the shims and send them to you. However, shipping from Germany will probably not be cheap. Where do you live?

​@@garagen-schrauberthank you for the reaction. I live in the Netherlands so it should probably be ok!

Ah, yes, that should be no problem. Please send me your details via e-mail (garagenschrauber@outlook.com) and then we'll figure things out :)

Small tip that you can also do on the Scandix, make the centre shaft of the middle ones smaller (i.e. cut them down) that gives you to ability to tighten the bolt more and the bushing will 'squeeze' out more and be tight that way.

Hey Lars, thanks for your feedback, I´m happy this video helped :) After attending a workshop and having them plug in their computer, I changed an injector. That fixed the problem for a while, but I still (or again) have issues, especially in hot weather. Either another injector is broken now, or it’s still something different. I haven’t had a chance to take a closer look, but I hope to do so in the next few weeks. When I find something, I will definitely present another video to you! :)

@garagen-schrauber Thanks for feedback. I really appreciate that! 👍❤️

​@@garagen-schrauber Any update?

Hey John, thanks for letting us know! Anything that dissolves oil and dirt will work. Theoretically, you could also use regular gasoline or pure alcohol for this purpose. What did you use to lubricate the cylinder afterwards?

Hallo Nikolai, das ist eine gute Frage. Es gibt Kleber mit und ohne Primer. Wenn der Kleber einen Primer benötigt, sollte man ihn auch auf Rahmen UND Scheibe auftragen, um bestmögliche Haftung zu garantieren. Dieser schwarze Keramikrand der Scheibe, der bei der Produktion mit aufgedruckt wird, ist kein Primer sondern schützt den Kleber vor dem UV Licht. Hier muss also der Primer noch drauf. Was war das denn für eine Werkstatt, in der Du die Reparatur hast durchführen lassen? Die Frage ist halt, ob sie jetzt im Nachhinein zugeben, den Primer auf der Scheibe vergessen zu haben.. Es wäre aber trotzdem gut, das zumindest anzusprechen, denn wenn die Scheibe irgendwann undicht werden sollte hast Du ein Problem zu beweisen, dass die Werkstatt einen Fehler gemacht hat..

Herzlichen Dank! :)

@@garagen-schrauber gerne mehr saab videos :)

Werden kommen, irgendwas geht doch immer kaputt :D Oder hast Du einen Wunsch?

@@garagen-schrauber Hmm, ich zähl einfach mal paar Sachen auf. Bekommt man die Schaltung wieder etwas direkter, bzw kann man Spiel vom Schalthebel veringern? Xenon flackern. Rost Behandlung ist immer interessant. Innenraum,Kofferraum und Einstiegslampen auf LEDs wechseln. Lederpflege (wieso nicht) Schiebedach austauschen. Da gibts glaube kein Video auf UA-cam zu (mein beileid an jeden dessen Dach kaputt gegangen ist xd) Blinkerhebel Reperatur Fensterheber Reperatur Ist son Mix aus dem was bei mir kaputt ist und woraus man vllt gut ein Video machen kann.

Ja cool, danke für die Liste! Einiges ist tatsächlich bei mir auch fällig, ich hoffe zeitnah zur Reparatur und anschließend zum Schneiden zu kommen! :) Spiel in der Schaltung meinst Du beim manuellen Schalter oder beim Automatik?

Ja ist nicht sonderlich kompliziert. Stimmt, das hab ich nicht erwähnt, sorry. Da sind rechts und links unten zwei flache Stecker die aus der Heckklappenverkleidung kommen und die Heckklappe hat an der Stelle zwei breite "Drähte". Schau mal bei Minute 1:15, da sieht man den rechten Stecker kurz und bei Minute 1:22 hab ich meine Hand genau auf dem linken. Wenn Du die neue Heckscheibe vor Dir hast wirst Du auch die Gegenstücke sehen 👍 Viel Erfolg bei der Reparatur und wenn noch Fragen auftauchen, melde Dich gerne :)