Відео

How can I get in contact with you?

Send me your number. I have rough & tuff I’m working on, looks like the same set up…

I have a rough & tuff with a bad controller. Can you please give the contact information to altrax

Is that a 36v test light?

I've got a click, cart doesn't go. What next?

How do u test the encoder bearing?

All my wires on controller show voltage when negative cable is disconnected from battery and then I lose all voltage when I connect it. The Solenoid and controller have been replaced… need some help here

When you buy a new solenoid, how do you know what side of the solenoid is the positive and negative? IThe solenoid has no markings, Thanks in advance

OK my light gets dimmer when I'm checking to see if power is going through the solenoid but when I step on the throttle the light turns off

I checked my diodes and they teated good. With the charger on and the meter between the 2 diodes i measured 61vac. Its a 36 volt charger. From the diode to the volt meter ingot 27vdc. Not sure how to check under a load

If I have a cart that runs slow, will this tell me what’s wrong?

Awesome video. Question. How would I bypass the charging read switch? Is it as simple as connecting positive off battery terminal? That’s what I gather from the diagram. Thanks

On a 48v motor can putting 48v to the armatures cause miotor damage? I had a customer call saying he tried to test the motor putting positive and negative to the armature posts and it sparked like crazy

Does this apply to a ‘92 36 volt Club Car motor also? I’m seeing other videos saying to connect S1 to A2, the positive to S2 and negative to A1 I’m just confirming which way is correct for my motor. Can you advise? Thanks

This video was very well explained. Thank you.

What if pressing the pedal makes the light get dimmer? Anybody experienced this before?

Thanks so much. None of the diagrams I have had the low power wire instructions. I have a SW182 contactor and would greatly appreciate a diagram for that unit, so I don't destroy my controller.

Great explanation!

Where to get the F&R contactor? Really professional presentation!!

I agree with others, while the jumpers at the motor are obvious, it is not clear how they are connected at the power source. I assume that the "negative" end of the lead to the positive armature post is connected to the positive terminal of the power source (and that the "positive end of the lead from the negative coil post is connected to the negative terminal of the power source). Helpful video but could be clearer. Including a simple diagram would help clear up confusion.

Any pointers where to get a new one

My red wire on the gas pedal shows power 24/7. Green shows dead. Any thoughts?

Great video, so many people assume it’s the solenoid. Very informative!

Normally, the capacitor is removed from the circuit prior to testing for accuracy.

How do you test to see if the transformer is bad. I have an old 48 volt charger that I want to repurpose the transformer to something else if it is good

Have 2009 EZgo and the white wire connected to ats have power all the time (1.9) (2.0)don’t need to press the speed pedal any idea ?? Control box is the problem ????

Where can I get the manual? Thanks

Mine says 14 volt. I replace the micro switch, ITS and solenoid

Is there a number I can call u

Where do you recommend buying a new ITS sensor? I just diagnosed my has failed, has 15v on it with key on, barely changes with throttle pressed. I appreciate this video, helped me figure this out really quickly

My solenoid is staying engaged as soon as I turn run tow switch on. There is no key on this cart. Motor sounds like it's trying to turn but not getting enough power to move.

Thanks for the video. I have a 98 ego txt that is kicking my butt. I believe I have a bad controller but would like your input. I have checked batteries replace the solenoid and ITS. All voltage reads good except I have no voltage reading on either side of the ITS. My understanding is that it should have 14 volts on the black and then the .5-1.7 on the white as you just stated. Cart worked fine and got under a load and quit working. Do you think it’s the controller?

Hi so what if I am getting power on the m negative of the controller with key off and key on All other test you showed tested good but still won’t run Thanks

keep it up. i will watch

You know the way you taste in the motor doesn't tell you if it's burned and he still don't show you continuity across the post you have to check what is called multidirectional testing

Electricity is not my friend. What are you connecting the other ends of the jumper cables to? Can I just use a 12 volt car battery? Even though it's a 48v motor? Thank you in advance.

Why would i get 38 volts on the whole system,its like the solenoids stuck open. I've tried two solenoids. Ez go Marathon Electric.

I have a neighbor that picked up a 93 Pan Can cart and all the wires have been removed, Its a 36 Volt 4 solenoid keyed selection fwd & Rev. I have been watching you posts and thought that you could point me in the direction of some kind of wire diagram or manuals or have knowledge of said cart. Thanks keep up with the posts

I’ll try it - thx

Appreciate your wisdom, Blessings

Hey man great videos, appreciate it! I’ve got a 95 ezgo I am struggling with. Selenoid won’t engage and keep blowing fuse at the ignition interlock by the charger port. Any suggestions?

I have a 2005 ezgo freedom it was running fine now it runs half speed. I tested everything you said to test everything is getting power,batteries are full. I’m so confused. I don’t know what to test, all wires are good. Please help!!! Krystal from Florida

At 5 min in the video you show a charger tester that you built. Do you have the plans for that I would love to build one. We get many charges and i do not have batteries to hook the charger up to. So they will not start. I would love to test the little chargers for the personal mobility carts too. Thank you.

Great video, but what do you check if it has a new controller and solenoid, but the cart will only move in reverse?

Thanks. 👍

Thank you a lot sir

Good job

I'm gonna ask this now but probably won't receive a reply in time. I am working on campgrounds 1997 EZGO TXT with DCS 36vdc. It was brought to me non-running. Went through entire electric system, found very corroded battery terminals and motor terminals. Found a broken yellow wire on ignition switch side which I repaired and whammo, cart runs again except I've discovered a new problem. With direction switch in forward, just barely touching throttle pedal goes to full throttle, spins tires and nearly pulls a wheelie. Not so bad in reverse although still a quick take-off. This is the same cart as like one in this video, same solenoid, box cover, and tow switch. I will perform ITS sensor test tomorrow to check voltages but wondering if you have experienced this issue with other similar EZGO DCS carts? There was supposed to be a switch with an orange wire which I believe is speed sensor but I cannot find where it terminates. I see the orange wire at the controller connector, it runs into the harness but don't know where it goes from there. I am told if the orange wire becomes unplugged or broken, cart goes to full power and that is what I'm trying to figure out.

Hello, do you work on other carts? Yamaha, Club Car etc. I have a Yamaha G22e that is no click no start. Has new solenoid and no click. How does the process work. Battery, to key switch to ITS to solenoid or something else. I appreciate your time. Thx.

I have a 36V EZGO cart with this same controller and motor. My cart just recently stopped going full speed. Checked the motor, it's ok, did voltage drop test across the FNR switch and that is good, checked the Accelerator potentiometer, and that is good. Cart accelerates fine, just will not reach top speed anymore. Brand new batteries were also installed last week. Former top speed was 18-20mph, it will only go 12mph now. Could this be a controller issue or a brush issue in the motor?