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I have a question. I need to get my upper, lower ball joint and outer tie rod ends replace. Did you get that from Moog or O'reilly? If it's O, what brand do you recommend of the 03? Firestone wanted to charge me 1K ($1,080) for this job.

Back from Alaska and today is the day! Starter time, lets go!!!🎉

THANKS BRO!! I just bought a truck and it had this problem and i got a long worm of dirt out. also i think the holes between the bed are air holes and the holes between the doors are the drains, just fyi, so you should not have to spray the holes between the bed, only the ones in the doors. That worked for me. GOD BLESS YOU!!

So how long will a f150 4.6 V8 with rod knock last? Roughly.

Old mechanic friend taught me many years ago to use a cut off section of old garden hose to hold up to one ear and move around. A lot cheaper than a stethoscope and works great at isolating sounds

I had to come back to this channel. I have to do my wheel bearing this weekend. It looks VERY simple to do. I'm not a mechanic but, I love that option that, I'm saving money.

Are you serious

Hell yeah brother

Appreciate the video man. Made my experience much easier to do on my truck

Good move .way to go . Looks good.

Hell yeah pro tip brother!

Damn that's a big sunroof

Sup bro this is cheap

Hey quick question I’ve been dealing with this problem where my 2007 4.7 hasn’t been getting up to temp sits at 1/4 and I’ve replaced the thermostat even checked it’s not stuck open do you know what could possibly be?

hey i know this video is an year old but i just recently bought a 2006 dodge ram 1500 and im having no crank no start problem did you have this problem ?which made you buy a new PCM?

Thanks dude you help me a lot

Right on

Just took mine off and cleaned it about a week ago. No ETC light, no rough fluctuating idle. Running better than when I bought it 4yrs ago.

Ok Alaska Girl here AGAIN! After replacing my alternator it seems the starter is part of the problem. So tomorrow is GO time!

It's not Infamous it's FAMOUS for a reason.

The grease that you used on the slide pint, was it called Super Lube Synthetic grease? Did you get it from O'Riley? I change the pads but, I don't have a air blaster to get most of the debris. I guess I'll need to invest in one of those. Is it option to use an air blaster

Appreciate your videos, I'm dying to see about the evap as I'm dealing with the same issue.

If you continue to have issues you may consider checking another component, especially if you are having issues with the radio or TPMS sensors being erratic as well. There’s a chance that your RF transmitter module could be damaged and shorting out, thanks to water leaks. These trucks are notorious for water leaks coming in from the following areas: 3rd brake light- due to failure of a faulty gasket it allows water to come in through the light and you will usually start to notice that there are water stains on the back part of your headliner in the corners. And you may even have water coming out from the top holes where the seatbelt is housed on either side of the backseat. The back sliding glass window- the seal around the back glass will crack and allow water inside the cab. It can fill up your seat cubbies, but most importantly it can get water inside the RF transmitter that is located below the back window on the body of the cab. This is what reads the signals from your remote/TPMS/etc. and can actually cause the truck to eventually not start at all! You have to remove the back seat to access this area. The vents on the back of the cab- these vents will also degrade over time and will allow water to get inside the cab and they are conveniently located in the same area that the RF transmitter module is located! You can usually see these vents if you look between the cab and bed of the truck. To access them requires removing the backseat as well. The ditch molding- there is two strips of molding on the top roof of the truck that can degrade over time and allow water inside the cab. Sunroof- if you notice water coming out from the front grab handle or anywhere in the front you may have a leaking sunroof or the weep holes may be clogged up causing the water to go in areas it’s not intended. Shark fin- if you have a shark fin antenna they can also start to leak water. These issues have been ongoing for years in these trucks and the makers continued to put known faulty components on their vehicles! Also replacing said faulty components with “new” components that will eventually fail as well! There are many videos/threads/forums online detailing what I’ve mentioned and how you can check and fix each issue if you do happen to find a failure. Hopefully this info will help someone diagnose and fix a small issue before it becomes quite costly!

#letsgoteam #happysunday

On the 3rd gen I used larger capacity filters. The ones equivalent to Motorcraft FL1A. You can get the Mopar equivalent. Same diameter and thread size but longer,more capacity and filtering medium. Looks almost twice as long and no clearance issues.

On my 04 Ram hemi my egr would go bad every 85K miles like clockwork.

Why do you flap your arms like chicken? It’s weird.

I love this guy.

Great job!

Awesome job on video

Me right now trying to get it out without the ball joint separator 😤

Those evap leaks can be a pain sometimes. I have dealt with one recently and it ended up being the leak detection pump again. However the gasket fell off when I was trying to get it in there and I didn't realize it. So I used extra caution and made sure it was good and the gas Cap light and check engine light went away.

At least its a 2wd. The 12 longhorn 1500 4x4 i had needed new front struts which are really expensive. I still love the 3rs gen 4x4s with torsion bars. One of my shocks lower mounting hole had a bolt break in it and i took the shock out and drove it for days until I got a new lca. It actually drove pretty decent...try that with a 2wd and no front shock LOL

Hate to say this but the problem wasnt the filter, the mds system is extremely sensitive to any other viscosities and will definitely not like that restore stuff...This is right from my friend that works on these hemis at a Dodge dealer

I kept getting the code several times, replacing several times. Till I learned to remove the valve, spray wd40 into the piston to lubricant it reinstall, problem fixed. No more buying a new one every year

Mine just exploded and left me stranded. I knew I heard a pulley noise for months

42069😂

Bro thank you, very well explained 🙏🏽

Thanks unc for showing me what my dad didn’t 💪🏽

Man them miles are unheard of bro 🫡, how many miles are on your 09 Ram? Am looking at one to buy that has 170,000 miles looks exactly like yours wit the 5.7 hemi

I got an 04 ram 1500 5.7 hemi with 288,000 still running strong

Changed that and had hoses checked. Code cleared for two days, now getting same code

Alaska Girl here about to attempt to do this myself tomorrow! Thank you for the easy tutorial, I will let you know how it goes!

Did changing those sensors fix the slow/lag starting? I have a 2009 Hemi doing the same thing.

Should I clear my check engine light ? Or should I drive it until it goes off .btw 🔥 video

I'm not a novice by any means, but I found this very hard to do. lying on a creeper with the back end jacked up. It took me around 3 hours. Even with using lights and mirrors it was difficult. As I had to maneuver my hand up there and I had to mostly go by feel and guessing. Plus it wouldn't turn back into the lock position with the round gasket. I had to use the old flat one and it did go on and turned back into position snugly. Too bad I didn't have a lift as it would of saved me 2 hours and 50 minutes. And I could only get one hand up there to do it. Given the amount of aggregation I endured, it would of been much better to pay someone to do it. So if your situation is similar and you never installed one before, consider my experience before attempting it. Unless you got plenty of free time and need the experience.