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@@FormulaDrifter23 nice. Happy that the vid saved you some cash !

@@DSoto-tr3bc de nada :)

@@PivotPixie thanks

@@raremelanin6868 you're welcome! 👍

@@nickstein1965 hey. I think it's probably too aggressive for plastic type trim. I suggest doing an internet search to find an alternative that is a bit less aggressive. Perhaps more of a polish for car bodywork but go easy at first. My current favorite for bodywork is Hybrid Solutions Pro 1 and Done Precision Platelet. You can be more or less aggressive with that product by varying the pressure you apply. Try something like that and start by hand applying light pressure. Hope this helps

@@jasonb2240 hello. Assuming you have the same model as me. First press the down button on the front right of the deck if you haven't done so already. Assuming you did that, then the mechanism may need resetting. While it is up in the air you can try gently pushing the arm into the center of the turntable until you hear a click and then the arm should return automatically to the rest position. If that doesn't do it, something may be stuck inside the deck. That's a bit more involved....

@@nancyj9881 👍 good luck!

@@MCRinOC yes mine is also an NXR. Had it 4-5 years. One of my stainless steel plates covering the hinge slot did move and partly jam a door one time. I was able to flatten it and it's been fine since. Just be sure to lube the hinges every so often and if the door begins to stick at all when opening, be sure to lube it well. Good luck

@@dadlifediydoityourselflike2293 Thanks. I was able to obtain the hinges and install them. A giant pain in the butt! They looked well greased when I received them. I don't ever want to take them off again so if I start having trouble, I'll probably use the "spray in" lube method. A tip for anyone with an older NXR range - To reinstall the oven door, you have to push back on the hinge ALL THE WAY and tuck the locking clip inside the slot. Initially, I was only using the locking clip with the hinge pushed down half way. Every time I tried to install the door the hinges weren't sliding into the slots easily and the clips would pop off so the hinge spring would snap back to the closed position.

@@AudiA3Guy 👍. Good luck

@@mlfitness67 awesome. Happy it worked out in the end !

@@gregbgregb8487 thanks. Yes - this was not my issue but another person also commented that it was their problem. Thanks for the input

@@davidcervantes8738 they worked out very well in fact. Once the bracket is screwed to the underside of the rail it doesn't rotate. The fact it can rotate around the one screw allows you to easily set the angle of the rail during the install. I was happy with them. It's important to get that one screw firmly into a stud

@@hiero365 haha. Thanks. If the problem ever comes back check out the part 2 follow-up video and the comments sections.

@@WideAwake50Hi. I put about an inch or two of gravel on top. Then soil. The gravel depth/thickness is more important on the sides and underneath obviously.

@@vin.handle thanks for the comment. This sounds like it should be fine for a smallish household. The main aspect of any soak away is obviously the volume & surface area of the pit v the volume of waste water, the type of soil and location of the pit. My crate system is probably of similar size to yours and seems to cope with front loader high efficiency machine washing for 2-3 adults. My soil drains quite well and is on a slope. I would think a higher load on the system like washing for a family with young children might require something a bit bigger. That's just my 2 cents based on what I installed. I don't claim to be an expert on this ! I recommend checking it occasionally after a series of washes or heavy use just to be sure it's not seeping to the surface or looking waterlogged. Pretty soon you'll be confident in how it's performing. Good luck

@@dadlifediydoityourselflike2293 Thanks for your comment. Much appreciated. Another idea that I've never heard commented on is amending the soil at the bottom of the hole. I've drilled a series of 12 inch holes at he bottom of th e hole and added constructon grade sand that I work into the soil to further add drainage. We'll see how that works also.

@@bobbyhunt3009 Hi. Disclaimer (!) I'm not a trained wildlife expert 🙂 but as far as I can deduce it seems that in the side tunnels if they see any disturbed soil they will turn their back end towards it and then kick the soil backwards to block up the tunnel. This will fill the trap with soil and sometimes trigger it. However if you've managed to locate the main run they will usually be running along back and forth and you have a better chance of catching them. The main runs are like their highways and the side tunnels are the side streets that usually dead end wherever they were feeding. I still find it tricky to locate the main runs after 4 years and 20 or 30 gophers caught. Also I find it harder to locate the main run on a slope or hill v a flat piece of ground. I have 2 gopher hawks now and typically set both at slightly different locations. Hope this helps!? Watch as many videos as you can as everyone has their little tips. And good luck. I feel your pain - believe me I've been there. Don't give up. The one thing about those critters is that they are consistent. They're not very smart but they are sensitive to light etc so try to cover any gaps around your gopher hawk to block light from entering the tunnel