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It could be 1 of 3 things that I can think of. 1) a weak battery (yes, I know it's hard to believe), 2) a short in the motor itself inside that actuator, 3) a low force setting on the control board.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech Thank you so much for replying. So this just started happening. Battery power is good, unchanged varies between 12.8 and 13.6. We have not changed the force setting. Can we run the motor with the cover off while watching it? Can the motor only be replaced?

@garycrosby8984 1) amperage is the key to battery power and that can only be determined by a battery analyzer or a load test - voltage can be good and amperage bad (because of sulfide deposits on the lead plates of the battery). 1) yes, the motor can be replaced without replacing the entire arm. I would first have the battery load tested by any auto parts store (they do it for free), before doing anything else, because you could waste a lot of time and money if you don't.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech Thank you for the insight I will get the battery tested first. I f I need a new motor where can I find the parts for that 912L actuator?

@garycrosby8984 I doubt you need a motor. But message me if you do, and I will handshake you with someone.

That would depend a lot on your situation. Do you know if you are currently using a ground loop, or a sensor that detector moving metal ("probe)?

The most important thing is to make sure both physical limits are triggered when the gate is full open and full closed. When in the closed position your limit LED light will be red, when in the open position your limit LED light will be green. If you do not see these light indicators as described, do not run the board through the learn mode and investigate why.

That would depend on the physical location of the customer in respect to my shop. Please call in for matters such as these. Cheers!

I purchase them from Southwest Automated Security. But I am sure they aren't the only ones who sell them.

I presume you are referring to the red tip that has a recepticle in it for an Allen wrench? If so, it should have two screws that hold it on. Let me know if you need a part number and a place in which to acquire one.

I am not an IT expert, by any means, but If you know your WiFi signal is strong at the gate, then I can only presume it could be a hardware or software issue ("glitch"). I would definitely try to hardwired any time I can, it is always more dependable with video streaming. BUT! Also be sure you are powering the device on a very clean stable filtered and adequate power supply. Not all power supplies are made equal. See what the factory suggests for your specific model and make sure that is what is in use before throwing too much time, energy, or money at it.

What indicator lights are lit up on the control board when it is stuck open?

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech Re-Open is Yellow. Open Limit is Green. Magnetic Lock Relay is Yellow . Power is Green

That ReOpen light is the rabbit hole to go down. What is wired to that connection on the board? It is highly likely the issue is a safety beam. It probably gets rain on the beam or its reflector and stays open until the water dries. I would check the alignment of the beam to make sure it is as centered as possible aiming at the reflector.

Not everyone requires that functionality. It is there and available if needed, but not always used by every client. During new installations, if it is not required for the location, I unplug the rack and remove the factory wires from the main control board.

I wish my eyes were still that good.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech Yea it’s important i always new laborers putting blades backwards on chop saws and angle grinders.. especially the turbo blades that have to be directional 😳 .. just want everyone to be safe ✌️

My memory is vague on that one. If memory serves me well it should be counter clockwise to unlock, and clockwise to lock. However, it's only 50/50 😉

That was the point; couldn't see the labels any more on that old blade.

⁠@@JacobGilliamMasterTechI see yellow label

Tell me more. I am not sure what you mean, because this blade has no diagonal marks on the side of the blade like some of my small blade, so maybe I misunderstand you... but maybe I can learn something new from you :-)

Even though no one has ever asked me that question before, you absolutely can use your own. The easy answer is: if you make sure to keep healthy batteries in the operator, you can use any 500mA or better transformer. But if you want to run the machine without batteries, I am not 100% sure but I would imagine it would need to be an expensive 10 amp power supply or better. I would have to ask the factory what the rating of their current power supply is. But I have never seen one of those machines pull over 7 amps ;-)

And sorry for the delay! I somehow overlooked your comment..

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech thank you. I called tech support and they didn't know the amp rating and the power supply is on back order. Since the merger, the original equipment specs and data is on short supply or not available :(.

When the gate closes, does the limit light turn red before it backs up? Depending on which motor input is in use, it will be the LED immediately to the right of the label "Motor 1" or "Motor 2".

We have tried every imaginable brand of loop detector on those loop racks since probably the year 2008. That just happened to be the brand of detector someone had installed inside 'that' model, at 'that' specific customer, when my team & I stopped to service it and I decided to finally just make a video about the topic. Just a random service call and a random customer, but a universal problem across all customers. Viking even called and acknowledged the issue and asked if I had any possible ideas as to the "why", or ideas on a solution; they were looking for anything that they hadn't already considered... and you gotta respect a company like that. ;-)

You nailed a hard fact in your first sentence. That keypad was intended to be mounted under an easement of a garage, not in direct weather. It's a cheap disposable keypad, that isn't great for vehicle gate use, nor does it look attractive at a gate. I just didn't want to go into bashing it in the video. I wanted the public to do it for me lol. And, yes, it was installed by what the home owner said was a professional installer.

Maybe it's my geographic location, but we haven't had any issues with water on standard installs. But you are correct, the cable is PVC based jacketing - PVC will absorb moisture over long term exposure to water. That type of cable would definitely be an issue for use in coastal regions at sea level and with high salinity levels (which conducts electricity). We do keep water proof jacketed cabling for use in certain projects, however. Good input! Great topic! Thanks!

I presume you mean "816". And that is a major undertaking 😬 You would literally have to disassemble most of the actuator assembly in order to access the spur gear. This is not a normal question. But you would have to 1) remove all 6 bolts to the bell/motor housing, 2) loosen the cable gland, 3) slide off the bell/motor housing, 4) take off the 2 motor nuts that go through the gear housing, 5) cut the zip tie, holding all the wires 6) remove the motor, 7) remove the 2 bolts to the limit assembly, 8) tilt the limit assembly slightly and use a finger to remove the limit magnet block, 9) slide off the limit assembly, exposing the gear housing to the spur gear... and then 10) joyously remove ALL the old grease and apply new grease so that the two different types of grease don't react with each other and cause them to liquify and negate each other, and then reverse the entire process.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech My gate is 10 years old and has never once failed to open. Is there a way to tell how many cycles the gate has completed? I know it's cycled at least 10,000 times if not more. I'm not sure if the gear grease needs replacing with the case being sealed.

I agree lol. I had to have it enlarged since that video. But the ring has sentimental value; which is the only reason I have such a tiny ring. Long story.

Is the "Open" or "ReOpen" light on the board lit up when this issue occurs?

This is what I understand, so correct me if I misunderstood: you press ANY single button on the keypad and it opens the gate? If so, then there is definitely something wrong with the control board (as long as there are no wiring shorts).

Yes, it is probable that the motor might need replacing. Over time the develop shorts and then boards will falsely detect overloads.

@JacobGilliamMasterTech Thank you sir. I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

Well, I installed the new motor today, but it still did the same thing. It just opens about a foot and that's all. Any idea what could be causing this?

Mine does the same thing . I think it is in the receiver .

@@waynemurphy7394 Yeah, I haven't had any more time to mess with it (mostly because I was clueless where else to look). But hopefully I'll get some more time soon to mess with it. Good luck with yours. Let me know if you have any luck.

It will cut through the rebar in the concrete.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech But can it cut through steel faster than an acetylene torch?

If I understand you correctly -- and forgive me if I don't -- open the keypad and try pressing the tiny reset button on the control board, to see if it releases the relay.

My pleasure, sir!

That's a tough one to call. How old is the machine?

Could be motor, motor harness, or control board. Must check to see if the voltage is being sent out of the control board, and if the voltage is making it to the motor connections behind the little access panel on the motor.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech I commented above. No motor hum or movement. When I opened the motor access door and with the power ON there was no current on the black wire connected to the motor. If I remove the black wire from the motor, then there is power/current detected in the black wire. Any insights greatly appreciated. Capacitor is dated 2010, so not original, but looks brand new, no char or odor.

The no EMI is likely of no concern, as the machine is still operating. But the UL Sensor error is in regards to the safety beam that covers the area that the gate slides open to. Basically, it THINKS someone or something is behind the gate, so it will not open until it thinks the area is clear. Hopefully the safety sensor was installed and installed properly by the tech. Could be something as simple as an alignment adjustment to that sensor, but it could be multiple causes. In this situation it would be best to call a qualified technician that can put their eyes one the situation. I can attempt to be more helpful if you can send me some photos of the install.

I posted two short clips.

I can’t figure out how to attach a video to this.

I received your text messages, just send photos there :-)

Is it a Serurity Brande Ridge keypad? Grey with a little emblem of mountains on the face?

That sounds normal. If you have a 7 day timer that opens your gate at a certain time and allows it to close at a set time, then it will over ride any other commands. You can't override the timer with a keypad or remote.

It could technically be "done". But normal setups would not allow for it.

What color is the Viking logo on your old board, and what color is the Viking logo on your new board?

What remotes are you using? Typically has a brand and model on the back of one of them.

Sorry for the delayed reply!

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech I’m using the lift master

Change the dip switches in the receiver in the gate then match them on your remote. Should be 10 of them and you can change them up and down but they come up down up down from what I've seen so unless you change them they will probably all work if they are new.

Is it wireless or hardwired? If it is wireless, check that the transmitter board light comes on when you enter the code (you have to do it while you have the face of the keypad open).

@hafeez387 Yes, the capacitor is designed to store a charge for a sudden burst of instant discharge to help the motor kick off to spin. So it shorting out shouldn't have hurt the capacitor. Using a wrench or a screwdriver won't hurt you. But most likely it doesn't have a charge anyway because you said the connections shorted out ;-) So I would fix the connectors and try it; doesn't hurt to try.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech ive already done it... :) ty.. the arcing of the power cables to the cap cause it to stop working it fried the tip of the wires.. as i said the last guy didnt use connectors at the end so it was probs loose so it arc everythime it was used.. i reconnected it the same way but ill fix it soon. its all working fine.. ty awesome video

Happy to help!

My sympathies!

I do not at this time. There are so many different types of safety beams and operators, it's a bit daunting to consider how to eat that elephant lol

Do you have a particular safety sensor in mind, to any particular operator? Maybe I can consider making a video for you ;-)

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech wow that’s a really fast reply and thank you so much. I have a Viking slide gate opener and I just added the Viking Monitor wifi option. Works like a charm. The previous photo cell works on a reflector. It’s a NIR-50-325 UL325 RETROREFLECTIVE PHOTOEYE KIT. The previous homeowner completely disconnected it. The gate today will crush a fender or kill a child. No kids around. I have a vflex board and the wiring diagrams are not clear. I get three wires in and I’m left guessing. So photo cell to a vflex board? If your so inclined. Regards,B

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech the reflective photo cells all seem to have five wires.

@@bmack2938 yes, they will have 5 wires, but you will nearly always not be using the 5th (Normally Closed NC wire). What color is the round Viking logo on your board? Black, green, or orange?

Okay, I can understand why you're frustrated. Viking doesn't make remotes. So first I need to know what brand of remotes you are using?

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech Mine is a Linear MultiCode. I is a big gray remote. It has DIP switches inside. If that is what you have it is easy. Just match the switches

I avoid this topic for many reasons, but ask your question... perhaps it's simple and will have a simple answer that won't require a dissertation. Lol

@JacobGilliamMasterTech Thanks man love you're videos. it was about adding 3 photo eyes mx 3990 to a hysecurity slide driver bi part gate. One for open /close the other 2 for entrapment . I would thinks it's sufficient right ?. Also what size, how tall/type steel mesh to cover "reachthrough" and be compliant?I'm already putting wheelcovers and warning signs. And I only went to that jobsite because a sensor was tripped lol. My customer says you have a open p.o to do whatever is necessary to get these gates fixed. Well fixed it is (Yoda voice). But I was thinking on working on adding all the safety ul325 requirements for the most part.

See, that's a tricking question. Because you are technically also suppose to evaluate ANY possible entrapment areas and address them.

However, in most eyes, that would be considered the bare minimum ;-) 1 beam for the opening that vehicles drive through, and one beam for the opening direction of each gate, for 3qty total.

@@JacobGilliamMasterTech thanks what about the steel mesh. What you recommend

Viking slide models do not have a "neutral". The key you have is likely to lock the plastic cover down on the chassis. But all Vikings do have an emergency release switch that allows you to push real hard and back drive the gearbox with the chain still attached. Lean into it and the gate opens slowly. Find the red emergency release switch and flick it to the "off" or "release" position.

Which Cartell are you using?

I will do my best. It's been a busy year for my team & I. Making videos actually eats up a lot more time than I ever expected lol. And I don't make any money from UA-cam. Not enough subscribers yet. Hoping to have time for more videos soon.

But appreciate your love!

What aren't you able to find? The limit assembly?