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Thank you for choosing Waterlox products and for the feedback on the video. For most uses, having just the UTOS on the underside is enough. If you do consider finishing the underside, you may want to save the last coat for the top side, in case you need to fix any damage from flipping/installation. Also, 24 hours before flipping is plenty if you allow most of the surface to breathe (such as using sawhorses) These guides may offer additional help: Finishing the underside of the countertop: waterlox.com/guide-finishing-the-underside-of-a-countertop/ Where, When and in What order to finish countertops: waterlox.com/guide-where-when-and-in-what-order-to-finish-countertops/

@@Waterlox Thank you so much! I’m very impressed with the products and your responsiveness!

Thank you for choosing Waterlox products for your project. For troubleshooting purposes, I am going to assume that you've already applied the UTOS and you are saying "Waterlox" for the first coat of H2OLox? On high tannin woods, if spots are not fully sealed buy the UTOS, then the tannins can be "activated" by the water in the H2OLox formulations which, in turn, can "deactivate" the driers. These driers are accelerators, so the finish will dry on its own, but at a slower rate. To solve your problem, give the surface more time and increase air flow with a fan on the sticky area if possible. If you can lightly scuff the sticky area (slow hand passes, with the grain) that can help the oxygen penetrate deeper and speed up the process. Once the film isn't "sticky" but is more just "tacky", you can apply the second coat. The driers from the second coat will help to fully cure the sticky spot as well.

Thank you for the feedback and interest in our products for your project. Food Safe means exactly what you are describing. It is safe for direct food contact after as there are no harmful plasticizers or other chemicals that will leech out of the cured film into/onto any foods that contact the surface. However, as you correctly stated, it should not be used as a cutting surface as that can penetrate the film and allow bacteria or other substances to enter. We recommend at least 7 days for the surface to be considered cured, although full cure may take longer.

James - Thank you for choosing Waterlox products for your project. Likely, the color will actually deepen a little more as the hevea ages (some wood bleaches out where other woods oxidize and darken). The UTOS and H2Olox products use Tung oil as the main ingredient which is relatively amber in color, thus generating the warm tones. Every layer that you apply will add another layer of this amber film, so the 4 coats are going to be more amber than the recommended 2 coats.

I am having the same issue with the color. I used the Truetone Tung Oil in white as my first coat and loved the color but after 2 coats of H2olox, it looks completely different. Is there anything I can do to lighten it back up so it’s not so orange?

Thank you for your comments and interest in Waterlox products. We have a detailed storage page (that includes a short video) here: waterlox.com/guide-storage-of-waterlox/ Bloxygen (www.bloxygen.com/) and StopLoss bags (www.stoplossbags.com/) are the recommended tools for keeping Waterlox finishes fresh for years. They each have some of their own videos and guides on their websites.

Maroon scotch brite pads can likely be found in any hardware or even automotive stores. If you cannot find them, they are labeled as “very fine” which would be equivalent to 0000 steel wool. This is also similar to 320-400 grit paper. Paper, steel wool, and the scotch Brite pads all “cut” a little differently which is why we recommend the pads but the other two can be used in a pinch. Make sure to thoroughly vacuum after steel wool to ensure no metal bits are left (which can rust from the water in H2Olox). DO NOT sand aggressively or use too much pressure when using paper as it will leave a more aggressive scratch that you may see through your finish coat.

Yes the Original Sealer & Finish is just fine all by itself. The Original Satin Finish is the same chemistry but with flattening agents added to lower the sheen. Performance wise they would be identical.

Thank you for choosing Waterlox products for your project. The UTOS is a very high solids product (85%) so a little goes a long way. It should not be brushed or rolled on but should be buffed on/off with a rag or buffing pad. Pour a little puddle and spread. Be advised that your specific wood and preparation steps can change how much your wood absorbs (pine will absorb way more than oak for example) If you are using a lot you are likely buffing off a lot of excess.

If it is just a little grip and can be sanded that will be OK. If there is truly any tack to it then you should wait.

Thank you so much! The countertops turned out perfect!

No, no sanding is needed between 6-10 hours. A light sand is recommended beyond 10 hours.

That really depends on where it’s being used. This guide may help: waterlox.com/guide-finishing-the-underside-of-a-countertop/

No, you do not have to use the UTOS first, but you should use some form of sealer as you don't want to put that amount of water directly on raw wood. It will cause severe grain raise and may not dry properly (or at all) on high tannin woods. You could use our Original Sealer/Finish, UTOS, or our TrueTone colors before the H2Olox. Check out our different Waterlox Sealers video at waterlox.com/videos

Thank you!

Ellie - Thank you for your interest in our products. Applying multiple coats of the TrueTone will not necessarily get you more color. I would actually bet that you'd get a lot more color water popping with 1 coat than with two coats of color, especially if you plan on sanding to a very high grit. I would test your process first to see which gets you the results you desire. You may want to water pop, then lightly sand the surface with a high grit to knock down any grain raise to get the most color. As for super smooth, the TrueTone Buff In Tung Oil Finish (which I assume is what you're referring to when you say Tung oil sealant(?)) will yield more of a raw, "unfinished" look and feel, which may be fine on more closed grain woods like birch or maple, but definitely not "super smooth" on more open grain woods like oak. Another option would be to use the Pickled White, water popped, and then coat with our Urethane finishes. The Urethane will build a film that could then be sanded super smooth. Apply two coats of Urethane over the Pickled White, then sand the film smooth before a final coat to really smooth out your final surface.

If you are referring to the UTOS portion, you could use the trowel as shown around 14:20 in the video. Buffing off the excess is an important step, but that can be done by hand as well. If you are looking for a sealer that you can apply with the wool pad, you can use our Original Sealer/Finish product. The Original products are higher in VOC and odor but they are fully compatible with the H2Olox top coat. Our Applying Different Waterlox Sealers video may help: www.waterlox.com/video-applying-different-waterlox-sealers/

Thank you for your interest in our TrueTone products. No, the buffer is not mandatory. The TrueTone products can be buffed in by hand or applied with a flooring trowel for applying stains. You CANNOT just brush, roll, or rag it on. Also a key step is to buff off the excess. On a large project that is a lot of work which is why the buffer is recommended.

@Waterlox thank you for the fast response. I decided not to use Truetone and just go with just the Original sealer/ finish semi gloss for a natural wood look and easier application. But I see there are two kinds of original sealers, one is low VOC and they other one is not. Any other differences besides low VOC? Could not find a clear answer on the web site. Thanks!

@@hollywoodwear123 They are completely interchangeable. There is a small section about the VOC compliant option toward the end of our Original Sealer/Finish Deep Dive guide: www.waterlox.com/Waterlox-ORIGINAL-Sealer-Finish/

The H2Olox system is much lower in VOCs and it also has more sheen options. If you use the Original Sealer/Semi-Gloss finish, you can get a nice semi-gloss finish, however if you’d like a different sheen, you’d need a second product. The H2Olox is really is the same great Tung oil and resin formula in a different package. Low VOC, almost zero odor, easy cleanup, available in every zip code. Just another tool for the toolbox to make your wood beautiful and protected.

Dana - Thank you for your interest in our products. We would recommend our Waterlox Wood Surface Cleaner for daily cleaning. Other cleaning tips can be found in our care and maintenance guides: www.waterlox.com/guide-cleaning-and-maintenance-of-a-waterlox-finished-countertop/

It ultimately depends on your specific situation. For instance, if you have an undermount sink, you'll have water exposure on the underside so you'll need more protection. This guide will provide additional information: www.waterlox.com/guide-finishing-the-underside-of-a-countertop/

You have a few options. You could use wood fillers, or caulk. We have guides for both at waterlox.com. Just type in wood filler or caulk in the search bar. If you're seam is close, you can sometimes use a mix of wood glue and sawdust to create your own filler that will accept color like the rest of the wood.

Sure, just follow the same prep process.

Ideally, you should sand to a lower grit (150) to allow for better penetration of the UTOS. We are putting a film on the surface so you aren’t really interacting with the wood surface which is why we don’t need to sand to such a fine grit. If everything looks and feels really good, you could leave it at 400. It will not severely impact your final outcome.

Thank you for choosing Waterlox products for your project. If you can live with it, it is best to leave it alone. Normal wear and tear will likely help to blend that in over a short period of time. If you can't live with it, you can lightly sand those areas with 220 paper, working your way back up to 320 grit, 0000 steel wool or a maroon scotch brite to remove the scratches from the 220. You'll then want to reapply a fresh coat. If you are using the gloss, you can spot repair, but if you are using any of the lower glosses (matte, satin, semi-gloss), it will usually not blend as well so you should recoat the entire surface.

@@WaterloxThanks!

Hey, I’m in a similar spot I think! Can you let me know what you chose to do and how it went?? I love this product but I have no idea what I’m doing lol

@@savannahlewis6156 My wife was pretty much done with the kitchen reno after almost four weeks. So my suggestion of sanding and refinishing the discoloured ripples of finish was not met with enthusiasm. So we’re just gonna live with it.

Thank you for choosing Waterlox products for your project. I would not say it’s normal, but it is also not unheard of. Time will fix your issue, likely within a week or two and even then it will likely continue to cure. Sometimes having a fan blowing on the surface constantly will cause the surface to cure too quickly which makes it harder for the oxygen to penetrate deep into the film. The fan is often only necessary to help ventilate fumes which is even less critical for the UTOS and H2OLOX formulations due to the low VOCs. If you wanted to expedite the process you could follow this guide: www.waterlox.com/guide-how-do-i-get-rid-of-lingering-odors-and-tacky-finishes/

@Waterlox Thanks for the quick reply. I will give the fix a try tomorrow.

Elise - Thank you for choosing Waterlox products for your project. The UTOS is NOT waterproof enough on its own so you'll need to apply the H2OLox Matte to get the full protection. It will look a little more finished, but still very low sheen.

@@Waterlox thank you! Can we do our second coat of UTOS whenever now? And then wait overnight for h20lox? Also, do you recommend sanding after UTOS and before h20lox?

@@eliseantony4850 Yes, you can apply the UTOS now and then wait overnight before applying the H2Olox. DO NOT sand after the UTOS! The UTOS is meant to seal the wood from the water in the H2OLox, sanding would defeat that purpose.

@@Waterlox thanks! After second coat of UTOS it looks a little white in some spots, I think it’s from the rag we used to take the excess off. And almost kinda tacky/sticky? Should we wait for it to dry then use mineral spirits to clean it tomorrow?

@@eliseantony4850 If its white, then you may have applied too much or not wiped off the excess in time. I'd recommend a good buffing with some mineral spirits now and try and get it smooth. Nothing should be tacky/sticky after about an hour.

Thank you for watching our videos and for your interest in our products for your project. The sanding and mineral spirits wipe would be preparation steps BEFORE staining in our opinion. You do NOT want to sand after staining as that would remove color. You can also skip wiping with mineral spirts as well. Now that the piece is stained, you'll just continue starting with the application of the UTOS.

Three stain that was used is oil based. Will this go on well over an oil based stain??

@@SuitcaseJohnny Yes. UTOS is also oil based. See the stain and waterlox guide for more information: waterlox.com/guide-stain-and-waterlox/

Thank you for your interest in our products for your deck project. You should contact Penofin (1-800-PENOFIN) and ask if your specific product can be topcoated. They have quite an array of products and on some of them it mentions topcoating while others it does not. I do not know what additives they may have in some product lines that my cause poor adhesion. IF the particular Penofin product that you are using can be topcoated, I'd recommend starting with a coat of Marine Sealer to act as a primer/tie coat, followed by two coats of Marine Gloss Finish. Test on a scrap or small area first to ensure proper adhesion and final aesthetic. Note that regular maintenance will be required. See the Waterlox on Decks and Porches guide for more information: waterlox.com/guide-waterlox-on-decks-and-porches/

Robert - We supply ones from DuraTool on our website that seem to work well. I have not run into issues unless I wash and reuse the applicators quite a few times (may be due to the soap degrading the glue??). They are listed under the paint and stain trim pad on our accessories page: waterlox.com/accessories/

Robert - Thank you for your interest in our products for your project. Mahogany is a term that actually covers a variety of wood so it's hard to pin down the specific species. Many versions can have high tannin content, so it is advisable to apply 2 coats of UTOS and 2 coats of H2OLox to be on the safe side.

@@Waterlox the species I’m using is sapele

@@rmiller183 Sapele, while often called Sapele Mahogany, is not truly a mahogany, but that isn't that important. Sapele is very dense and naturally oily. One coat of UTOS should be plenty, but be sure to wipe with mineral spirits at least an hour before applying the H2OLox to remove any oils that were forced to the surface.

Diane: I'd recommend visiting the Dust Deputy site for that information: www.oneida-air.com/blog/how-does-the-dust-deputy-work?gclid=CjwKCAiAr4GgBhBFEiwAgwORrdzZMcez1CSQTh_-4DJTQMyHRxUipUM7gw8I681Bt31ygvJtCJyy3hoCWcgQAvD_BwE

Scott - Thank you for your interest in our products for your project. We can't control other manufacturers formulations so we tend to err on the side of caution for drying/recoating times. My recommendation is to usually double the recommended time for stains to cure as many stains are now "quick dry". If the can says 4 hours, I'd give it at least 8, but more time won't hurt.

This is a classic case of dewetting. Water molecules notoriously like themselves so if the surface energy isn't right, the water will group together instead of spreading evenly over your surface. This is more common in the cold months. Did you wipe off the "spider webs" or let them dry? Hopefully you wiped them off, in which case you actually applied a very thin coat of the H2OLox which should help with the next attempt. I would recommend using a little bit of the H2OLox to wipe your surface 5-10 minutes before coating (instead of mineral spirits). Just put a little bit on a clean cloth and use it to wipe any dust off your surface. This will help to "pre-wet" the surface and should help the H2OLox flow out better. If you do see a little bit of dewetting continue to brush the area and it should improve.

@@Waterlox Yes, I did wipe it off! Your suggestion worked perfectly and the coat went down perfectly on my second try. Thank you!

I would still recommend it. I cover that topic at about the 6 minute mark in our sanding video (waterlox.com/video-removing-old-waterlox-finish/). Waterlox tends to highlight the wood, which unfortunately means it can highlight defects too. There may be marks from how it was stacked, shipped or how it was sanded before they packaged it. It’s not critical but it’s a good idea, I would just do a healthy hand sand with 100 or 120 grit. That way you know you’re starting from a good point.

@@Waterlox Thank you! Lightning fast response, really appreciate it.

@@Waterlox One other question: my countertop is already installed, do I need to tape off my sink etc. to prevent the UTOS or H20Lox from getting on it, or can I just wipe that off? Anything else different I should being doing since I can't access all sides quite as easily as you did when it was on the sawhorses?

I’d recommend finishing what you can. I wouldn’t worry about the underside or back edges. Tape off what you can as that’s always easier than clean up in my opinion. If some gets where it’s not intended - a clean rag for UTOS and a little soap and water for H2OLox while they are still wet. If you miss it and it’s allowed to dry check out this guide: waterlox.com/guide-removing-waterlox-original-tung-oil-finishes-from-unintended-surfaces/

John - Thank you for choosing H2Olox for your project. You can lightly sand and reapply, but its best to do the whole section, especially if you are using anything other than the Gloss. You'll most likely see a spot repair in the Satin, Matte and Semi-Gloss as they just won't match up the exact same.

@@Waterloxon the plus side I am using the gloss. I had an extra peice that was finished and I tested it out looks like it's gonna work ..thanks again for all your help on this one !!!