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@@antionewalker4081 I returned it, sorry!

Thanks so much! 🤘

The new fluid actually totally fixed the issue, I am perplexed but not complaining haha

Thanks, it's good to be back! After one or two drives with the royal purple, it actually completely fixed my issue, stoked about that. For some reason the issue still existed during the first few drives but eventually cleared up, guessing the new fluid just took some time to make its way through the system. I was looking at getting some MT-90, sounds like it's the best of the best but I was impatient as I can't get it locally so I settled for the purple :p

@@GilesVessey fair enough! Glad it's working right again! The royal purp is a great option too! The worst I've heard about royal purple is that it may need to be changed a tad more often, but if you factor in cost difference who cares haha

Also have some bushings down in there that fail. Makes shifter feel like crap. I had to replace mine recently. Cheap fix.

@@werdpc Thanks man it's good to be back! Curious what series is your 6 port? I've got a set of decent s3 6 port irons that I've got laying around, wondering if I could use them in a future build but I'm not sure about how to best control the 5th and 6th ports. I stuck a new shifter return spring in it a year ago, it is still working, it just sometimes can't overcome the stiffness of the transmission when it's hot. Knock on wood the new fluid seems to have completely fixed the issue on my last few drives but time will tell!

@GilesVessey so I currently have a mostly stock gslse(intake, rb exhaust only). 297k original miles! Coolant seals have given up, so I picked up a s4 6-port, street ported and rebuilt it. That's going in soon with a sniper. Anyway, I have had my 5th/6th actuators completely removed the whole time on the stock engine and it is totally fine. Plenty of torque down low for street use. Pulls up most any hill in 5th gear at 2500 rpm. Don't listen to the people that say that they have no power under 3k with them removed. It's just not true. So I'm pretty confident that it will also be fine in the fresh build without them, on a street port, at least. I have heard that bridge porting them without the actuators does result in no low end however. Which could be true, that is a lot of port timing to deal with at low rpm. If my original engine is usable I plan to try it though. Who is driving these things below 3k much anyway, lol! Side note. How cool would it be to get functioning actuators and only bridge port the 5th/6th ports. Then you would have this nice low and mid range power and still rip high up.

Also, most people running ported 6-ports are probably using a carburetor. A sniper should be able to adjust for that low end better, I would imagine.

@@dawsongamblin5246 Welcome to the channel, yep I'm from Prince Edward Island! I never thought I had much of an accent until I started posting more videos and people pointed it out lol

​@@GilesVessey love the Maritime accent! I'm from the mainland myself, New Brunswick. i got a few friends from p.e.i. though.

@@dawsongamblin5246 Right on, I'm starting to go to more off island shows so you may see me and the rx at one if you go!

@@just_another_car_show Thanks!! Cheap project cars always have the most character :)

Thanks man! It was quite the adventure

Thanks man!!

Quality gauges that you trust are a must.

I bet his exhaust hitting the rear trim is from smashing the presilencer into speedbumps lol

The icebox AC uses 4" piping so that's actually not impossible lol. I'm definitely gonna experiment with ice packs etc. The rattling inside the muffler? Not sure what you mean. I think it sounds great, what would you have done for a muffler setup?

Check out vid #38 in the series, I go into a bunch more detail on it!

With nothing tugging on the throttle bracket, set the RPM in the software, and start the car - then, adjust the screw on the primary butterflies COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and you should hear the rpm drop - keep turning it until it idles at the correct rpm AND the IAC position shown on the screen is between 2~8. I think if you have to adjust it enough you may have to cycle the system to have it recalibrate the TPS

Thanks!! The shop that sold me and lapped my plates said that they only lap 2 thou, and that there would be plenty of factory nitride layer left. After reading way too many forum posts, I still have no idea how deep the nitride layer really goes as I've heard claims of as thin as 0.4 thou and as thick as 4 thou. So, I'm just running on that promise from my machinist and seeing how it goes. I've heard the argument that in actuality step wear is rarely the cause of failure for an engine so it's not worth the $$, but ALSO have heard that your plates will wear incredibly fast without nitriding so I'm not sure what to think 😂Also, they sent me a R5 casting rear iron which means it never had nitriding to begin with, but apparently were also built from a harder base steel. Other two plates are Y castings, so the engine really is a wild combination of parts from different years lol

@@GilesVessey yeah man, same here. I've read pretty much everything there is about nitriding and lapping and no one seems to be able to provide a definitive answer . Hadn't noticed the R5 rear iron but now that you mentioned it it looks like a spare one I have from a factory assembled engine from a SA, so it would also be nitrided.

Thanks man!

Thanks so much! I was actually fully committed to running a weber setup to the point where I bought a 4 port 13b intake manifold early on, and then changed my mind after I started researching the sniper a bit more. The techie in me really wanted to do EFI, but I felt way in over my head researching how to do it, and the only kits that made it look easy enough were $4000CAD+, so I dismissed it at first. Then I started researching the sniper, and the price point was only a little over 1400 bucks more than the weber - $950CAD for the weber (probably way overpriced from racing beat) versus $2400CAD for the sniper including the HPFP fuel system upgrade. The ability to play around with modern software to control how my 1976 spec rotary behaves really gets me going and that's the main reason :p That, plus the fact that the self tuning feature actually works well enough to the point where I feel confident that my particular choice of intake/ exhaust ports and manifold setup are getting taken into consideration decently well- where I feel like with a mechanical carb, I would just end up jetting it until it ran just, pretty good, but likely not optimized. I like a computer helping make sure I get every last drop out of it if that makes any sense haha. Thanks for the q!

Functions well and doesn't leak a dang thing, we definitely did a bang up job for a first build!

Thanks buddy! Best of luck! 🫡

Thanks man! By the looks of it I gotta check your channel out, I'm curious to see what you're up to!

@GilesVessey Hell yeah! Probably be struggling with trying to tune a rotary with a sniper efi or sniper like efi at the same time haha

That is what I read, too. It's a complex topic I don't fully understand, but from reading the forums, it sounds like it was to address reversion, and increase velocity on stock 12a setups. Although the difference I'm referring to isn't that small, it's considerable, about 20mm taller on the iron than the manifold - there's some footage in my porting video about it. I have read theories that the reversion and velocity loss arguments only apply to carburetors that actually have separate primary+secondary operation, which, I don't think the sniper does - AFAIK it's firing all four in unison, at least with the stock linkages. I do wish I realized that small manifold ports meeting up to big iron ports was a normal setup, as when I received my manifold I just saw it as a big setup mistake, not an intentional thing, and 'fixed' it without reading enough. It would have been nice to run it as-is to see if I was happy with it, but I guess we're just sending it lol This is what makes me feel a little better, from the forums... "I know when the subject of port matching comes up everyone says not to do it because of reversion and velocity loss. I have read those discussions with flow testing results by Paul Yaw, RotaryGod, Jeff20B and many others who I respect. But both RB and RaceCast tell me that doesn't really apply to Weber since they are "always on" and flowing through all 4 ports. The small primaries on a 4 bbl (which is what most port-match threads are about) affect low speed throttle response and vac secondary operation, but go out the window when using an IDA or DCOE"

@@GilesVessey very good point. I realize my mistake as I have the carburetor mentality. Thank you for your response, and your project is awesome!

@@nickshimondle2105 Of course, and hey, I don't even know if my understanding is correct so I appreciate the opportunity to chat about it! We'll see how well it works out in a few weeks when we fire it up. And thanks!!

One of my favourite songs to play in it!

those look like Atkins apex seals, you would have been fine installing them the regular way. Atkins cuts their corner seal a bit different than Mazda so that it has more Support in the corner. Clean engine, and perfect port, I love half bridges.