Відео

Damn! Now that's a butcher job! The procedure is to use an adjustable push rod and find the length that creates the correct geometry. You should just throw those rockers away, you really compromised their strength.

Well for those that are new to this work you have two top dead centers (TDC) on a 4 stroke. And a compression release bump.. put your finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the engine slowly and watch the valve ,you will feel on the compression stroke pressure pushing your finger off the plug hole that's your compression stroke .now once you find that TDC rotate just alittle more and you will see the exhaust valve bump open real quick that's your compression release on the cam bumping it so it is easier to start your engine and once the the engine starts centrifugal force moves the compression release out of the way. So you really want to go a hair past TDC ,right after the bump to set your valve lash. Now when you get into what to set the valve lash at on a STOCK motor is recommended all over the place on the internet. I like to set mine at .004 at the intake and .006 on the exhaust. That's just my personal sweet spot on stock engines . When you have takin the govenor out and added racing parts like billit rods ,higher weight valve springs and flywheel and advances timing that changes everything . And may have to set your lash accordingly. But building an racing engine is another ball game....

My 212 manco started before I transported it a hr on top on my jeep now I can't pull the cord. Any help?

I have to much compression

Is there a way to fix a non functioning compression release without removing the camshaft ?

Valve Spring Height off or Pushrod length off??? Valve Train geometry is where you get your higher RPM's!!! The Race Shops say that .850 is a target height for high rev engines and they make a Gauge to set spring height... Hope that helps my friend!!! Hemi's with the Valve Angles are tough for everyone!!! We all see these problems and few relay their secret fixes in the Race Crowds!!! ;-) hope you get it right!!!!

Tell me why the ring gap shouldn't be in line with the wrist pin.

What's wrong with you engine builders? Using calipers to measure crankshaft journal's....use a micrometer!!!

Are this little bikes 2 stroke or 4 stroke

Turn off that GD music, WTF man, you a teenager or what. Sheeeeettt!

I was messing with my valve lash bc it locked up but when i Tightened the valve lash it stopped locking but when i turn it on i cant exerlerate it bugs and almost turns off idk what to do

Taking the battery out of the caliper is a pro tip... Read the reviews on almost every digital caliper. Nothing but guys complaining about the battery life.

Hello sir, sir me I ask how to order the billet flywheel and billet connecting rod? Then much it's?

Why dident you get shorter push rods

I got a question

For those of us, who might not know, which stroke, at Top Dead Center, should we use to set the valve clearance, exhaust, or compression? I believe it would make a lot of difference, myself. I noticed you did have it on the compression stroke.

My engine is realy easy to pull and doesnt start any suggestions?

Hemi or non hemi they both perform the same. I know hemi head is supposed to flow better

Mines started being hard to start after I changed the valve springs

Turn the music off, I can’t hear you. Thanks!

Adjustable push rods or cut to fit push rods.

I adjust my valves at a loose 0

website to Cam ?

Don't wont to be now where close when you (try) to start up.

No oil on bearings, you need to learn not teach, good luck with this build!

You should not grind the push rods. Always cut them. They must be cut square. You are taking off the tip of the push rod , right.What I do is make an adjustable push rod. You can cut a push rod in half & put a threaded rod between them to make it adjustable then you know what lenght to cut your push rod no guessing. Contact between the rocker arm & the valve stem should be in the middle of the rocker & valve stem. You want to try to get the angle to where the arm is pushing straight down & not pushing the valve stem to any side. Rocker arm ratio is very important. If not dead on you lose some of your cam profile. Also clay your pistons. Rotate one time then check it. You can cut reliefs in the top of the piston if you have a way to jig it up. Be careful & have fun.

Thank you ... Sir. 👍

It kills me that your not using stud kits, and are using the factory bolts

What would be the valve lash for 212cc non Hemi?

I have a problem with my 212 cc predator engine it keeps accelerating to full power when i turn it on

You should re name this video on what not to do ... lol

What size cam did you use ?

When you clay for clearance put it on the piston head not the valves. Turn the engine over only one time. Also don't grind your pushrods they make cut to length pushrods with press on ends for exactly this situation. By grinding your stock pushrods your creating a rough surface for your rockers or tappets to ride on. They also make different ratio roller rockers for better valve spring clearance.

Complete parts list please. From gopowersports.com ? hemi stage 4 kit?

what size feeler gauge did you use for exhaust & intake I'm having same issue not sure what the specs are

Wheres part 2 at??

Hey brother I am having a similar problem with same 212cc Clone engine , but mine has too much compression and is extremely tight to pull .

Why make videos and not post the fix for the issues you had ? I think it would help alot of poeple.

Hey bro I had a question, I set my valve lash to ur specs but it still jerks back really hard when trying to start, is there anything I could do to fix this?

So as long as ur screwdriver is as far out as can go, means it's top dead center right?

You should have put your rod in a vice after putting the rod bearings in and put the rod cap back on then torque it down to 170 to seat the rod bearings Arc recommends doing that just a helpful tip also when doing this start at 20lbs and work your way up to 170

I have cut valve reliefs in funny car pistons, at least a mini bike has a single cylinder. Make a wood fixture for holding the pistons at an angle without scaring or crushing them.and take light cuts with a fly cutter and you can get it done with a mini mill or a smithy. 0.025" a pass easy.

Cut valve reliefs in the Piston

Great job, my only issue is (and don't take this in a negative way) but putting that 1/4" nut on the inside of the crank case could cause you problems down the road. These engines tend to rattle some because, face it they are not that balanced, and that nut may (or may not) reverse itself off and cause major damage inside the block, I would have just left it alone with the bolt through the outside, a small leak is better than a nut floating around in there.. Just a thought Mike

Love your videos, why don't you put the clay/playdoh on the piston instead of the valves? It is way easier to see where it's hitting then.. Just my 2 cents

Nice build. You can also remove the governor gear from the crank for less rotational weight. Just tap it carefully with a hammer and it pops right out.

Yo I diggin it bro. Those 212 got some get up in go .build on, Be blessed Jah Rastafari Selassie I Jah