Відео

I think a 175W probe start metal halide would work better for this

Magnetic ballasts, fluorescent and HID, manufactured before July 1979 probably contains PCBs, a ballast made a few years prior to 1979, will say "NO PCBs" if it doesn't have that. You can be almost positive a 1950s ballast has PCB in the capacitor and potting material. Ballasts from after 1998 are not required to be marked "NO PCBs" but most of the ones I've seen, even the new electronic ballasts at my local home depot and lowes, are so marked. Some ballasts for F40T12 lamps from 1979 - 1985, F96T12 ballasts from 1979 - 1991, and HID ballasts/capacitors from 1979 - 1991, may contain DEHP, also found to be a hazardous waste.

The old magnetic ballasts if ran relatively cool and the correct lamps used, will outlive these new fangled electronic ballasts several-fold. Correct lamps means NO 34 watt energy saver in a ballast designed for 40 watt lamp. And yes, 34 watt rapid start F40 will start and operate in these older bipin instant start fixtures, but will live a very short life since full ballast current would flow through the cathodes at one end of both lamps. F40T12/CW/IS lamps are electrically equivalent to the somewhat more common F48T12 slimline lamps in that they have a thin metal strip shorting the filaments inside the end caps such that ballast current cannot flow though the filament, nor can they be used in a rapid start fixture as it would cause a direct short across the heater windings and may damage the ballast This same 40 watt two lamp instant start ballast is also suitable for use in a F48T12 fixture and the wiring is identical. For those that don't know, the stationary socket actually has two contacts next to each other, the hot and neutral from the line connect one to each socket, and the ballast input leads connect to the other side of each socket, and a single wire from the ballast connect one to each plunger socket, which is a single contact. The pin of a slimline lamp bridges the contacts of the stationary socket and complete the circuit to the primary coil when both lamps are securely seated, the ballast is disconnected if either lamp is removed. This helps to prevent someone changing a lamp with the fixture energized from receiving a high voltage electric shock and falling off a ladder or worse. Instant start F40T12 lamps have not been manufactured since about the mid 1990s, but if you need a replacement, you can take a rapid start F40T12 lamps and solder a fine bare wire across the pins on both ends, and now you have a homemade F40T12/ IS lamp. The lamp won't last as long as a rapid start, but it does work in a pinch. If you need longer lamp life and have a good 40 watt instant start ballast, your best bet is to install slimline sockets and use F48T12 lamps, since these have more robust cathodes to handle the high voltages.

Bulb burnt out 😮

High hour merc lamps are cool as hell. I have a 100w westy lamp that glows like an incandescent.

when i was little, i saw a 175w mercury vapor dayburning, and still runs after like 15 or more years dayburning

can you help me to make a 100w high pressure sodium nema head please?

Some of those ballasts will shock you with induction voltage. That's why it's important to ground them, I been shocked that way many times lol

Cool to find this video. Ill be sending your replacement socket next week when I gwt back in town!

What is the cool coil?

Wow, that’s an incredible collection you’ve got going there! I’ve got a few 2 foot and under preheat fixtures, but as far as the 4 foot stuff goes, I only have a single shop light that is actually preheat (Sylvania). You can see it under my shorts videos. I have two other shop lights from the same era if not earlier, but unfortunately, both of them are gutted and they have the GE push in lamp sockets one of which the set on it even those are trashed so I will have to retrofit tombstones. When I eventually get around to fixing those up, preheat ballast seem to be unobtainoum so they will probably be fit with rapid start ballasts. My day to day lighting in my workshop that I actually use are my own custom conversion F32T8 rapid start shop lights that I converted from electronic as I was able to score a good deal on the somewhat hard to find 32 watt rapid ballasts. Thanks for sharing!

Wow. So cool to see a F40 instant start in action alongside what I assume is a standard rapid start F40 when you mentioned a modern sylvania GTE? Never heard of an 8 foot preheat high output. I always thought 8 foot only comes in instant start single pin, high output or very high output, the latter two of which are actually rapid start at 800mA or 1500mA vs the standard 430mA. Also wondering would any harm be done if you put a HO lamp in a VHO ballasted fixture, or are the lamps the same with respect to arc voltage. Because I noticed online that VHO lamps are now nearly impossible to find, whereas HO lamps are readily available even at the Lowe's home improvement 1 mile from my house. You know, just in case you had a older VHO fixture and wanted to keep it running.

Looks great

Is it on a photocell or not?

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Original problem was no starting?

.23 is a TERRIBLE power factor. The higher the better. .90 or above is considered high power factor.

This is super super neat! Fluorescent tubes are so beautiful! ❤

AWESOME :D

Those are absolutely awesome!

What does it means when It cycling?

Mercury vapor aka the lamp that last so long it's illegal to make new MV fixtures. While MV may be inefficient when comparing the lumens per watt of MH, HPS, LED and many fluorescent tubes, it's extreme longevity is sure to offset the slightly higher energy costs for the same amount of light output in labor costs, which can really add up in facilities with very high ceilings, such as warehouses and shopping malls for example. For malls the coated MV should always be used because of the much better CRI of around 50, vs 15 to 20 for the clear MV.

I'm surprised a 100 watt MH lamp started on a 175W MV ballast, considering all MH lamps 150 watts and under are pulse start, while MH lamps from 175 through 1000W may be probe start or pulse start, whereas all MV lamps, to my knowledge are probe start. In any event it is never a good idea to run any HID lamp on a higher wattage ballast than the lamp since this causes the arc tube run at much higher temperature and internal pressure than it was designed for resulting in a violent rupture or at the very least severely short lamp life Slightly under driving a lamp on the other hand shouldn't cause significant harm long term. A good example would be wanting to host a party with a 125W MV blacklight but you only have a 100W MH or MV ballast on hand, since 125W MV is a very uncommon size, at least in the USA anyway.

Can the transformer run a bunch of fluorescent lights in series?

Those instant start ballasts are just high voltage transformers

Very nice that you got all of them!

Nice one lol

I did building maintenance for 20 years in a large doctors office as a side gig. Those original ballast will last a long long time but the replacements won't last more than 5 years best case . Typical to get about 2 years out of them .

So are HPS bulbs safe?

It should be fine, the “”””25W”””” F40T12 lamps are just 40W F40s with crappier filaments inside.

Can this also happen with HPS bulbs? because from what I've seen, it doesn't happen that violently and very, very rarely if at all

What a sweet fixture. I have two Day-Brite fixtures myself, one just like this with two lamps, and one from around 64 with a GE Bonus Line rapid start ballast. Most three lamp fixtures I've seen have two ballasts, including mine which I have a three way switch installed so I can have low-medium-high.

What about PCBs

Sometimes i see giant abandoned buildings and wonder.... Wouldn't it be easier to recycle an the metals inside rather than mining for more?

That's pretty awesome finding a bunch of bi-pin instant start F40s. if I'm not mistaken, these vintage 2 lamp instant start fixtures intentionally used medium bi-pin sockets with the line hot connected to one socket, line neutral to the other socket, and ballast input leads wired to that same socket, and instant start lamps, which are basically a standard F40 with internally shunted end caps, to act as a switch to disconnect power to the primary coil of the ballast when either lamp is removed, to protect a worker against receiving a high voltage shock and possibly falling off a ladder when changing a lamp. More modern magnetic ballast instant start fixtures use single pin lamps and are wired the same way as the older bi-pin instant start fixtures. The stationary socket actually has two contacts next to each other, the lamp pin bridges the contacts and completes the circuit to the ballast when both lamps are securely in place. The problem with these bi-pin instant start fixtures is that installing standard rapid start F40s will immediately blow the filament on one end destroying the lamp because the full ballast input current would be applied across it unless someone had shunted the socket. On the other hand, a F40T12/ IS lamp would cause a dead short across the heating winding of a rapid start ballast. It's these reasons modern instant start fixtures use single pin lamps, with a few exceptions, most notably the F32T8 lamp which typically is run on electronic instant start with shunted sockets or standard sockets with a jumper across the socket, although these lamps are sometimes run on rapid start or programmed start when frequent switching or dimming is required.

First look 1 to 3 preheat ballast very amazing !!! My taiwan preheat ballast just 1 to 1 & 1 to 2😮

Balastro fluorescente queimado

Explosão de balastro fluorescente

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Este lugar na escola 🏫

Don't be putting 34-watt energy saving lamps on that ballast as it will overheat and burn out with 34-watt energy saving lamps.

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Love the buzzzing sound!

Wow cool!

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Great video