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Ebay. You need to keep checking, they only come up once or twice a year.

A few tips 1) Never replace a component unless you've proven it's bad through testing or isolated it by eliminating every other possible cause. If you don't do this you waste a lot of time and money gambling. 2) Misfires are almost always ignition related. 3) Check and re-check your grounds, especially the block of grounds bolted to the top of the transmission, that's where the ignition components are grounded. If that's gotten corroded, it can cause all kinds of problems. 4) Just because you replaced it doesn't mean the new part is any good. Replacement parts, especially electronics and ignition components, have astronomical out of the box failure rates these days. Some ignition modules are 100% bad out of the box new from the store. You have to test the new components on the bench before you install them. Do not assume the new parts are any good.

@@inkyracing i have the car seating since i got out of high school back in 2004 and i decided to get it going and i have all this crazy codes going on

@@inkyracing what injectors can i use my probe is turbo also want to know if i can swap the air flow miter can you tune the car with sct tuner any help will work for me me thanks

@@robertogutierrez8721 You can't tune it unless you replace the engine control module with a standalone. If you do that, you can get rid of the airflow meter and use whatever injector you want. Depending on where you live, doing that may or may not even be legal. You'll have to figure that out. That process is way beyond what can be effectively related in a youtube comment thread. You've got a lot of reading ahead of you. You can start here: www.megamanual.com/MSFAQ.htm

I used Plasti-dip. All in with the sprayer and materials it was about $800.

www.diyautotune.com still sells it. Drill into the PnP units.

@@inkyracing which one, like what's the name/ model?

@@inkyracing also, I believe the 97 is OBD2, will this ECU be compatible?

@@inkyracing another question, how much did it cost u to repaint Ur ford probe?

Distributor relay? There isn't one. Or did your module quit?

The 750s are stiff. Almost to the point of being uncomfortable. I ended up switching to a Viking Berzerker shock in the front because the QA1s didn't have enough valve to control the 750s. If I had the time and ability to properly measure the suspension and plug it into a suspension analyzer, I would seriously consider relocating the control arms to add some anti-dive to the front suspension. In theory, I could reduce the spring rate. But it's suspension. You move one thing and it throws everything else off, so such alterations must be done after some serious study, and I just don't have time to undertake the project right now. HTH!

There isn't one, you need to watch Ebay. They only come up when DNA makes a batch, which isn't very often.

They were made by DNA Motoring and sold by several importers on eBay. May want to contact DNA directly and see if they can tell you when they'll make another batch of them.

@@inkyracing thank you really appreciate it

@@inkyracing have msgd Ty.again

Sorry!

Check out part 2! My only quibble after nearly a year playing it is it is more difficult to play this horn in tune compared to that Yamaha. It's extremely finicky, and overall harder to play in tune with an ensemble. If you back off on the breath support even a touch, you're a quarter step flat, and the tuning slide doesn't have enough travel to compensate, like if you're starting to get tired. The Yamaha was much more forgiving. Anything using the second valve is a tad sharper, too. It's compensate-able, but it's work. My ear has gotten a lot better, though. I'm strongly considering lopping a quarter inch off the leadpipe and 3rd valve entry pipe to get some extra travel on the main tuning slide to see if I can tune it a tad sharp to give myself some headroom.

It was a rush. Found out it hit boost cut at ~6500rpm in 5th. 143 is as fast as it'll go without raising the boost limit, which I don't have enough injector to do. :-(

It was a rush!

I think the machine shop backlog has more to do with retirements and not enough people in the pipeline to replace them.

It's not a project for the faint of heart. Packaging is a big challenge. And you really need to take the engine apart and open up the ring gap or it'll crack pistons.

Thanks! And thank you guys for continuing to sponsor this series so we can do cool stuff like this!

For this series, a drivers' license, $500 and a safe car: www.driveusca.com

Does "feels like a long wheelbase front wheel drive Miata" help?

@@inkyracing Somewhat, its a pity these cars are rare in EU - i like the looks of them. Well good luck going forward

@@pch_mechanika If my instagram followers are to be believed, there are a lot in France and Ukraine. It also apparently sold well in Australia, New Zealand, and the UK.

@@inkyracing well Poland no market for these at all, biggest nation auction sidet has 4 cars in total. A pitty as i like the chassis look. Any way GL in next races

Knuter valve was eliminated when the confabulator was upgraded.

I'd also like to know on how much boost you run and if you had to upgrade your internals and things such as the clutch

​@@zeronixtm I'm using @Diyautotune's MSPnP for the Probe. I had the car tuned on the Dyno at MCR Tuning in Park City, Kentucky after the install. A low milage stock pre-1997 engine should be OK at 7psi with a conservative tune. Any of the 97 and up engines with the cast crankshift cannot hold any boost and should not be used. I found that out the hard way. They just disinitegrate. Be sure to have a rev limiter set. The turbo will compensate for the cams falling off at 6500 and will spin that thing until it comes apart. The stock injectors cannot feed a boosted engine. The 300cc/min injectors from the Millenia S can support ~250hp crank, which is right where I'm at. The stock fuel pump can feed that power level. I have no idea what the stock transmission can take, but I do know the stock clutch cannot take the torque. I upgraded to a Spec SZ153 clutch. It holds the power very well.