Відео

@user-um9oz9wg5l I belive it's called panel board from home depot, it's glossy white and smooth on one side and wood brown on the outside it's about 1/4 thick pretty cheap on cost and does great, easy to wipe down and clean and the glossyness reflect light well making it bright

@dantehooks1603 thank for the tip, I literally just got done stripping the engine bay about 30min ago, used a serious of stripping wheels and some hand sanding in hard to reach areas

@dantehooks1603 if you look at my community post, I posted pictures earlier today

@@Ricardo_Wade also out of curiosity, I just installed the maier flares on my 65 and was looking at 18x10.5 aodhan wheels (what brought me to your channel) I'm wondering if it will clear I'm not sure if the clearance is the same from 65-68, I did go with one size down on the flares

@dantehooks1603 my aodhan wheels are 19x11 +15offset and I am running 1" spacers as well, without the spacers they were sunken in also without the spacers my front wheel would not clear the upper front arm ball joint greaser on the factory arms other than that they fit well

@@johndeer4054 I sell them

@@Ricardo_Wadewhere?

@@johndeer4054 on my Instagram @gs_rick

@daviedawg3318 never said anything about them being multi piece 😂 I was referring to me running them and faking it, these wheels were new, I stripped them and powder coated them and added 3pc wheel hardware, it was honestly just a troll, I have 3pc wheels on most my other cars, you can see the 2 tone final product thumbnail if you click in my videos

It shows in the video, I used the ones that cane with the android itself

Disregard, I was not aware there was a part one. Thanks

Appreciate you, I'm still working on getting the engine bay prepped for paint then I can move foward with final fitting

@@Ricardo_Wade Sweet man! Hope you’re driving that beast soon. 🤙🏻

@@Ricardo_Wade So I asked a question on the Eastwood Hopper. They don’t sell the old style hopper anymore. Any ideas?

@@hardcore4476 www.royalcoatspowdercoating.com/product-page/eastwood-upgrade-kit

@@Ricardo_Wade Thank you. I knew about this kit but he’s up charging quite a bit. I may just buy it anyhow because the headache finding stuff separately.

Thanks pretty easy and cheap for when on a tight budget

It had stock stamped steel rockers before on stock heads

Use 2 nuts same thread and tension them into each other causing them to jam into each other this will lock it into the coil pack stud

Thanks that helped a lot, I wasn't sure if they were bolts or welded in. Last question about the air line tube on the top left, how did you take those off ? Seems they come off by pulling on them but I'm too scared to break them

@Topdilf916 stick a screw driver in it twist back and foward while pulling on it should slide out, they are presses in

@@Ricardo_Wade thank you!

Thanks, a few updates coming up now that we have warm weather

It will vary, I've never really done a test on how long it last especially since it was only used on thick grass so that alone takes a load on the battery vs cement use but it does have a decent battery life, you can get replacement to have a spare charged up

Strip lights or bulbs ? Coming in Gs instrument cluster?

Please explain to me why they called them rivets because I am truly confused

Because they are actually rivets installed with a rivet gun to appear like a multi piece wheel some people can’t afford or don’t wanna spend the money on a true multi piece wheel. I’ve spent over $30,000 on racing parts on my truck but won’t spend 3000 on a true set of two piece. It’s just preference.

@@JosephNnbs you truck must be super fast

@@Ricardo_Wade I’ve raced a scat pack to 155mph and I was pulling on him when he let off

Aodhan

Jokes on you it's been 11yrs

@@Ricardo_Wade Lol. That's crazy.

@804MRMAN It sat at 2 shops for 4yrs combined and that's when I started to lose interest, I'm slowly getting it back together, a buddy of mine is going to get the rear end squared away sometime this year when I bring it up to him, he's 6 hrs away and I got about 4 other projects that also need my attention

@@Ricardo_Wade Po gs300. Is there a built motor in there?

So far so good no check engine light or change in fuel economy

All 1st gen is300s

Switchbacks are as easy as it gets, simply plug and play and be done

​@@Ricardo_Wade Thx bro! I actually grabbed a pair of switchback bulbs for my fogs a couple weeks ago. I love em & they seem to work as designed/as I expected (nice cool blue around 6200K at initial turn on, then when I turn em off/back on they're like a 3000K yellow [for those rare cases when we actually have fog here in Phoenix lol]). But as for the actual amber SIDEMARKER strips in my headlights (which [oddly enough] seem to be the only LEDS that came stock on my vehicle back in 2012 [alongside the rear taillamps, the high stop lamp & possibly some others in/around the cluster]), I feel like I'm stuck with the bulbs that came in place as I haven't found a way to remove those (unlike the bulbs for the low/high beam, the DRLS, the parking lamps, the turn signals, the fogs & rear tail lamps). Its like they embedded the amber sidemarker bulbs within the headlight so you can't change em lol. But yea, I've tried everything short of getting a relay/etc & just haven't been able to get em to work like this (where they stay lit but then flash when I cut on the turn signals). The second I thought I had it wired right (without using a relay/etc), they blew fuses lol. I'm assuming installing a (presumably 3-wire) switchback bulb would resolve this, but I'm just not seeing a way to replace the sidemarker bulbs as they appear to be embedded in the headlight assembly :(. At least the relays are cheap tho lol. Just would be nice to accomplish this w/o having to bother with it.

I'll give you some details in the morning, I had a similar set up on a yukon denali with side markers, they would stay on and then flash with turn signals, easy to do

@@Ricardo_Wade Ohhh man that would be GREAT! Yea, thats exactly what I'm tryin to accomplish, especially w/ all these big ass monster trucks that folks got out here. I know darn well they can see my turn signals on if they're in the lane next to me (since Cadillac put em way down next to the fogs smh lol). Thanks for any help you can offer.

​@@Ricardo_Wade Finally got em working with a 4 pin (normally open) 40A relay (x2), fuse holders (x2), 15A fuses (x2) & some wiring. Courtesy of Daniel Stern Lighting, here's what got me there; Relay terminal 85: to vehicle end of cut side marker feed wire Relay terminal 86: to vehicle end of turn signal feed wire via splice (with Posi-Tap connector as linked above) Relay terminal 30: to always-hot +12v via a fuse Relay terminal 87: to side marker light end of cut side marker feed wire... So at this point, my side markers come on (& stay on) as designed, & each L/R side marker flashes (respectively) when I engage the left or right turn signal... My ONLY remaining issue; The side markers flash out of sync ("backwards" ) with the stock front/rear turn signals (when the stock turn signal IS lit, the sidemarker is NOT/when the stock turn signal is NOT lit, the side marker IS), & the side markers don't kick on when I simply engage the emergency hazard blinkers (unless I have my headlights on). Hopefully I'll figure out these last 2 items sooner than later, but at least I got the thing somewhat working how I want it lol. Wondering if a "normally closed" relay would be a fix, but everything I'm seeing seems to indicate a total of FOUR relays (2 per side) in order to have them flashing in sync with the other stock turn signals. Just clueless on how to wire it all up.

@BrandonElliotSmith the way that i wire my side markers is, run 1 wire to the positive side of your quater lights (not headlights) and run a second wire to the positive side of the turn signal, when the turn signal is off that positive wire is in a ground state grounding your side marker with the quater wire its giving off positive to your turn signal, this will turn on the side marker and keep it on, when the turn signal is activated it turn from ground to 12v+ turning off the side marker every time the blinker blinks

Thanks, appreciate you for watching, it was my first time ever trying this process

I did that myself unfortunately i couldn't get a good wipe, I ended up using the 90° at mid lift method then factored in the the preload that Howards cams recommended for my application, I went over this a video or 2 after this one, takes a bit of easy math but gives you solid numbers

Same thing i be saying

Because I get paid for the longer videos next time watch a short

@Neimannard easily avoidable, don't watch

​@@Ricardo_Wade💯 😂

Do what?

But it's the same as a 3pc wheels

Watch the video it shows what you need and how to do it, it'd been a while since I did

Because I have aluminum heads, the stock never went back on

@@Ricardo_Wade That poster dont know even with old stockers a roller cam will still pick it up. What grind did you go with

It's worth the swap just to get rid of the flat tappet oil issues. Upgrade / port heads at the same time just gravey.

I can get it direct for

Sorry for the late reply, I'm using hi-colo brand machine, the eastwood is a great starter gun to learn basics but is limited

Did you see how they ended up looking after I powder coated them

@@Ricardo_Wade Nah can you link it ?

@@raddreacts ua-cam.com/video/Y5bwdTqrKyQ/v-deo.htmlsi=_msHNjbAvv5HY1co Foward to 8min mark

@@Ricardo_Wade You recommend these wheels?

@raddreacts they hold up good, I ran them before on my daily pushing 100 miles daily never had 1 Crack or bend on me, they were on 35 wall tires

The sound quality is great, no weird sounds or or loss od quality would highly recommend it if you wanna keep the stock radio

I know exactly what I'm doing, I'm just bad at doing it on camera 😂

If the head breaks off used a wood screw, screw it in the center, keep screwing eventually the screw will bottom out causing the plastic to pull or screw out with no damage to the wheel

Sorry can't help you there, I've never had any issues with fumes, also my mdx is the ultra low emissions vehicle "ULEV" model