Відео

Open frame speaker on a massively loaded up workbench with metal toolboxes, etc. It was clean in person. What probably didn't come across in the video is just how loud that was. I had the PS-100 loud! ....just not for long to be safe.

I have a 250 also, and I do like it, but I prefer the Zoom Box. It's possible I just don't have the right 250, though. I know they can all be a little different.

Various calibration of clock, bias, levels, etc. Probably best to leave them be if you can't look at a schematic and have a good idea what they do and if you need it adjusted.

@@ReWind-Electric Oh, it's got a clock huh. Okay, ya, I kinda get that, and not really planning to touch them, but I guess my main curiosity was how does the average tech even figure it out etc if MXR doesn't even document anywhere what they are, or what they are for? Do you think other than the stuff you mentioned, that any of them actually affect the actual Chorus in any way, like depth, width, intensity, etc? Stuff like this just bugs me, because you can see on each pot there was marks where the pots were set, and they arent even in those positions. It's like a paint dab, and I think its so company's could maybe tell if they had been moved or something if they were repairing them, or maybe im wrong, but its just hard not to be curious, especially, because it makes you wonder if they have been messed with, and if the pedals sounding right, or as good as it could hah. I do know that there is some switches inside, and those are fine to change. One sort of changes the speed in a way, and makes it like a vibrato almost, and the other I cant fully remember, but it makes it either louder/quiter, or the effect more intense kind of.

Nah. I don't want to get into shipping explosives and who wants to buy a $500 gallon of lacquer. If you need some vintage refinishing work done, though, I'm open to discussing the job, time permitting.

That one is over my head. Send it off to an experienced tech. Other modulation pedals can have that problem when the chips fail. Best to have a pro look at it.

Very kind of you. Thank you.

I thought it was faux-Kyuss riffing? haha! Compliment, either way. :) Thank you.

It’s an Agile that I rear-routed for pickup swapping.

Nah, it was a pro install, and the we checked out the harness and connections, etc. He liked other pickups in the same guitar / rig. Just a guy who's not into the brighter sounds. These are basically T-Tops with PE wire and no Ts on the bobbins. Second vid after a magnet swap and swapping bridge / neck pickups uploading now!

I’m not sure what you mean by between the plate but, yes, PAFs always have one bar magnet.

@@ReWind-Electric like wherever you slipped in I always thought it was just posts with wire

Ha! Thanks, man. About an hour each evening for every magnet type to do the swapping, charging, recording, then some time editing. The Vs are definitely bright, but they also have a lot of bass.

Do you mean so I can always place the magnet in the exact center of the shoes? …or to center the pole shoes on the coil cores?

@@ReWind-Electric Both. It just seems nice to be able to have a reference mark. Cheers Andrew

Good call. I had some marks on there but they came off when I started taking it apart. Hopefully, with the new power supply, I’ll be able to leave the pole shoes fixed and just do everything electrically, anyway.

This video is just the short summary comparison of this one. It's all explained in this: ua-cam.com/video/a1-p5L_PADI/v-deo.htmlsi=r2PDCXl2pDb7yNxG

It's all case-by-case with each model. Many of mine are fully or mostly charged, but others, like the 1958 PAFs are heavily degaussed.

Reminds me of the people that say don't use the big 150w & 300w soldering guns near your pickups because it will degauss the magnets. Its nonsense. You literally have to put the thing ON YOUR PICKUP and hold it there for like 3 or 4 minutes with the trigger pulled. 🤦🤦🤦🤦 I've soldered in almost every guitar I have with a 300w soldering gun and it does nothing. Zip.

On the little A3 rod magnets of early Fender pickups, which are already not factory charged fully, that can mess with the charge. I've done it.

I already broke a phone doing it. The camera was permanently blurry, like the focus got stuck It's a pretty intense pulse, if you get close.

@@ReWind-Electric oh really? Wow. I never considered that. Thanks!

@@ReWind-Electric one of my favorite channels had destroyed a few cameras lol but he makes 50kw laser cannons with microwave parts and stuff lol. The channel is styropyro. I believe he's some sort of electrical engineer or something. Not real sure.

Haven’t measured. I just don’t care. It’s not at all important to my work. Specs are for customers because they expect something. I refuse to publish the misleading DCR, so I choose to share a few other figures on my retail site, reluctantly. Blind audio recordings where you don’t know any details of what you are hearing are, by far, the most important. How many Duncan, Gibson pickups, and generic Chinese pickups hit PAF electrical measurements and magnet types just perfectly fine, but sound like crap? Numbers are that useful.

@@ReWind-Electric audio recordings would be the most important if every company used the same guitar and rig, and played the same way. And even then every customer's rig is different. So I don't find sample audio recordings very useful at all. You have the luxury of always hearing your pickups (or others you own) under the same conditions, in a test guitar that allows easy pickup swaps. Prospective customers of pickup companies don't have that option. And no one provides blinded recordings of many diferent pickups where you don't know what you're listing to. Sweetwater's big HB comparison was probably closest, but you had to modify that to make it blinded. And it included PAF styles with hotter HBs. GITEC's showed that well-known PAF clones don't really sound that different. Correct measurements like resonant frequency and Q factor are the most useful. I totally agree that DCR is nearly useless to the player, which is why I didn't mention it. But if you feel that inductance measured under specified standardized conditions (as you do) is also useless, I don't think that's correct. If by "PAF electrical measurements" you mean resonant frequency and Q factor, then those varied for vintage PAFs. And the tonal variations correlated with those. And so people can prefer some PAFs subjectively to others. The less useful measurements don't correlate as closely with the sound. The net effect of uncertainty regarding any pickups I might consider buying is that I don't buy them. If the resonant frequency and Q factor were specified, I would be much more likely to buy. Other people might be happy spending money and modding their guitar on the off chance that a new pickup might sound better than what they have. You seemingly cater to a market that thinks one needs to replicate as many individual components of vintage pickups as possible. That is, make a physical "replica" pickup. Rather than replicate a given resonant frequency and Q factor. That's a somewhat unusual market. Who are ironically in that position because they can't get proper measurements from most pickup makers. ;)

I’m digging A presently, as well. Honestly, none are quite what I was aiming for but surprisingly excellent in different ways. I think the next game will be degaussing the magnets to a few points, then maybe magnet swapping.

It looks like Cream T pickups is who bought it all and is selling it as the Guitar-X stuff

Look again, I don’t solder anything to test them. I have alligator clips bolted in the cavity. Much faster.

First guess is you changed the input setting on the pedal or something else about your rig or guitar and it's all interacting differently now. Probably not the pedal having any problem, honestly.

I did but I don’t have any chrome guitars that use an ABR-1. Only nickel.

@@ReWind-Electric How hard would it be to get one nickel plated? Or Is that too sacrilegious? haha

How do I look up this guy with $300 abr1?

@@jimioconnor8039 Don's Vintage Guitar Parts - #B21 Patent ABR

@@jimioconnor8039 this guy has 600+ parts. $400 Centralab pots. All sorts of stuff.

I'm putting them in all my Gibsons and trying to hold onto a stash of more for future guitars. Already hard to come by, but really worth it, I think.

You don’t have to. I just usually like what the knobs rolled back sounds like more. Brings more of the complex harmonic sounds out when you set your amp up with the guitar rolled back. Kinda Jimmy Pagey, with the right amp.

They don't have the squared off piece of wafer where the tabs are. It seems like their entire wafer is inside the pot and only the lugs stick out.

PEC pots are carbon trace and sealed, like you describe. Made in Canada. Really nice pots but, unfortunately, very large and VERY stiff to turn. Would be nice in a hi-fi but not suitable for a guitar being too big and stiff.