Відео

Thanks 👍

Many thanks Matthias, the heli is what it is and not really a hobby grade RC Heli but some where in between. You will see in my second flight (coming tomorrow) I have no need for trims and on speed 2 it is more agile on the cyclic but still too slow to respond on the collective. It is what it is though and still fun in the garden. I would not attempt to fly this out in an open space. There was virtually no wind when I was flying but come up above the fence panel height and it was like flying my M4 in a 20mph wind. Happy landings

@@All_things_RC. I like the comparison with the M4 in 20 mph! Thats a good description. It's about having fun! Happy Landings Pete!

I fully agree Matthias but the self levelling will give me some added safety when flying in my home and garden which are both small spaces. The real time stick time is the most important through the winter months. I have found the simulator to be good but not realistic enough and I have picked up a few bad habits on the way.

@@All_things_RC. I personally much prefer my OMP M1 indoors. I can hover and taxi precise to the cm. Keeping altitude to the cm. My RC ERA heli "jumps" up automatically while taking off, even with the slightest collective pitch "up" stickmove. A lot of deadband around center of the stick and altitude hold make it impossible for me to get even near the precision of flying manually in 3D mode. But thats just my experience. I prefer to fly with my trusted Radiomaster Transmitter, if indoor or outdoor. So I do not have to "adapt" from one transmitter feel to another. Just my experience. Best greetings!!

@@RCCopterLove Again I agree but for me the M1 is 3 times the price of the MD500 which has been bought for quick flights. To practice with true collective in the in smaller environment I have a RotorScale F1 180 with 6 axis Gyro and using my Futaba 16SZ Tx. The MD500 seams a great Scale solution for a quick hassle free flight. Happy & Successful Flights

@@All_things_RC. Very true with the price factor of the M1! I am lucky, I have them all: 2 M1's, 5 M2's in all versions and M4 and M4 Max (for outdoors only 😀 ) The most important in our hobby is to have fun and stay in contact with the sticks to not get rusty!! All the very best, my friend!

Thank you Matthias I hope she fly's as good as she looks 👍

@@All_things_RC. I cross my fingers for a great and safe maiden flight!!

Thanks Pal don't worry back to helis soon 😉👍

Thank you the slope is a long bowl covering NW through to SW there are two launch point 1km apart. One is on the NW point and the second is on the WSW point. The slope is used by Leek & Moorlands Gliding Association in the UK www.lmmga.co.uk. thanks for watching and perrtisipating in my channel. Happy flying Pete

Thank you for your comments and taking part in my channel. I use 5000mah & 6000mah 60C packs giving me 4 to 5 minutes flight time.

Hi Steve if the GPS signal is lost it goes into 3D mode automatically. Providing you leave the switch in GPS mode it will come back automatically also. If you go back to run you have to go through the whole set up process which the heli would have crashed by the time you do this. As good as the H1 controllers are for beginner pilots I am now starting to fly using flybarless units as I am loosing faith in the GPS signal. Good luck with the Airwolf and welcome back to the hobby.

Glad to help

Hi Peter I have videos on my channel. Please select play list while on my main screen, Select Fly Wing 450L GPS RC Helicopter, scroll down and you will find two videos, one is how to down load the software and another showing how to use the software. Please dont hesitate to message me again if you are having issues.

Hi Andreas I have lost GPS on two occasions. All you can do is Switch to 3D mode and back to GPS and hope it reconnects. Be very careful not to switch to home because you would have to go through the full start up procedure. If this is the case the heli will have crashed before the full start up procedure is complete. On the last occasion I lost GPS signal there was was a Geostorm (solar flare) which affected GPS signal throughout the UK and Western Europe. I noticed there was another Geostorm forecast through Thursday until Sunday but this wasn't Europe. One other preventative measure I have taken is to use a hot glue to glue the multi plugs to the receive and H1 controller to ensure they don't come loose. I have seen on forums and communications to me it is a common fault that the multi pin connectors work loose over time. I hope this is helpful please let me know how you get on with the heli in the future and any thoughts you have on the above.

@@All_things_RC. Thank you!🙏

Thanks Ian altering things accordingly to get the tail wag stopped. Its been a roller coaster of a road but well worth it. Its great to see here fly. 👍😊

Many thanks I have to say its the most satisfaction I have had in the hobby for a long time. I need to alter the throttle curve and add a bit of a dead spot around neutral pitch. Only one click on the the throttle ratchet will alter the pitch either side of neutral. I am working on the tail and gain settings because there is tail wobble. I have asked on the face book group for help on this. For sure one issue is resistance on the saft and tail mechanism.

@@All_things_RC. So glad to hear!! I am so happy for you!! Best greetings and lots of further satisfaction and fun!!

Many Thanks!! Stick time sim time now 😊👍

@All_things_RC. Well done mate, I always say sim sim sim. I've a new video coming out later. Stay tuned buddy lol

It is Jeff. If you don't want to crash them don't fly them. I started RC flying 40 years ago (fixed Wing) and as the time passes you forget the harsh reality of learning this hobby. It's 18 months since I started RC heli flying and this is my first build and test fly. Its been a great learning curve and I am coming out on the other side with much more knowledge than before. 👍😊

The build was fun but setting the heli up wow what a roller coaster. Each step is a step forward though and a great learning curve. I will get there in the end i am sure.

Thank you, I have narrowed it down to either the main grip arm or the receiver which had come off its back plate. I have my Rx antenna set up with one point horizontally out of the back of the frame and one direct down in a 90deg format and clear of the frame. There is allot of carbon on the M4 making a signal loss possible though

@@All_things_RC. Gresat that you narroewd it down! Exactly the lot of carbon is the rason why I mounted mye FrSKy rceiver on the tailboom. The invertor of this Heli, Jonas Wackershauser recommended this method. He is doing this on all his helis up to the M7! Have safe flights

@@RCCopterLove Thank you for the recommendation I will do this today a wet and breezy day in the UK 👍

@@All_things_RC. It's maybe not the most estetic solution but for me safety and stable connection Transmitter/Receiver is much more important. You can see in mt M4 videos how it looks. I have about 3500 flights with my M4 and M4 Max together behind me. Never any problem. Not even one single crash. The tipover does I dont count as crash 😀

Each attempt is a massive learning curve. The pleasure of flying the M4 will be worth it in the end I am sure. 🤞

Hi Ian I believe the cause was the main blade grip arm that failed in flight. During my spool up tests in the garden shown on an earlier video the heli tip on its side. This must have fractured the blade grip arm. This can be seen on the second attempt also but i found this before flying again. The M4 has proved a great learning curve, hopefully it will make me a better pilot for it. 👍😊

@@All_things_RC. This might very well be! I had a tip over with my M4 caused by uneven ground and one main grip arm was fractured. Fortunately I noticed it before the next flight. I wish you that all goes well next time!

I have two helis with H1 controllers and apart from this incident they have worked faultlesly. Having said that I also am moving towards standard flybarless units. The main thing is not to give up on the hobby. Happy flying and thanks for watching my channel.

Hi Adrian, sorry to hear you had a problem and I hope you can repair your heli. On the day this happened to my B206 I had issues with my H1 controller in my EC145 also. During that day there had been a geo storm (something in space) that effected GPS signals in the UK and Western Europe. I had to recalibrate my GPS on the 206 due to the crash but not on my EC145. Both helis have flown many times since that day and without any issue. Allot of people tell me Geo storms don't effect GPS signals but for me this was too much of a coincidence especially when I haven't had issues since and on the same day all air traffic in the UK was disrupted due to signal loss. This was so extreme all flights were grounded for a short period. I am not saying this is your case but GPS signals are not as reliable as we think. I hope you will be soon back in the air and happy flying in the future.

@@All_things_RC. Think its goin be a new fuslage as it hit the ground hard i've contact the seller if i get no joy i will go direct to fly wing to try and get a replacement as it there product that failed not even had it a month.

Thank you for watching and taking part in my channel and to share our knowledge to support others. As a new person into the hobby of RC helis, the FW 450L was a great introductory route into learning how to fly. A package that comes, literally ready to fly out of the box. You are correct in what you say re the switch of a standard TX but this is the supplied Tx which is formatted by the manufacturer for general use. The aim of my video is to show the pilots buying or using the factory set up equipment, the inherent danger/problem with the switch allocation/position. Once I decided to continue with helis I now use a standard Tx with the switch configuration as you describe. The placement of these are ideal for quick easy access as you point out but still not totally isolated as to accidently knock them. Thanks Again Pete

No because there is a lip on the belt wheal.

www.motionrc.eu/products/rotorscale-f1-180-size-gyro-stabilized-helicopter-rtf-rsh1003-001

Thank-you for your kind words and responding my video. I am sorry for your loss and I hope it hasn't put you off flying RC helis. I now hold my finger next to the switch in su h a way I can't accidently switch it off accidently but can easily switch it off if required. All the best Pete

Hi Jeff 72%.

Hi Ian, thanks for the kind words and support. I have gone with 6 degrees on the forward collective and 12 on the pitch.This is a starting point of course. I will be posting the maiden when I have done it but I am just of on a business trip so it maybe a couple of weeks before I can get round to it. 👍

Ok Pete, I will keep a look out for it 😀👍

Thank you for your kind words and viewing my channel. I struggled with orientation when the SFG were installed. As you say not scale and not necessary, the model fly's just as good without. As you will know most 1:1 scale aerobatic planes have guides on wing tips for orientation not to help with the maneuvers. Good Luck in the fall with the full size Gamebird if its anything like its smaller brother it will be a great plane to fly.

Hi Peter if you go onto my channel, select play list, select the flywing 450l channel and you will find the set up video. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you need any further info.

Hi Thomas, I left the H1 controller where it was originally mounted on the frame. I bought and installed a longer cable so I could have the GPS mounted on the wooden mounting tray in the fuselage. I bought the cable new from Ebay at a cost of £8 posted. Stop the video at 11.05 minutes played and the GPS unit is mounted on the wooden frame next to the mechanical frame. Unfortunately the image is dark and difficult to see the GPS unit but in the 30 seconds before as the camera pans round the heli you will see the H1 controller and the cable running around the frame to the GPS unit. Good Luck with the build

Thanks for the kind words and watching my video. It means allot to me that you have interacted and asked questions this makes my efforts worth while. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any further questions. Good luck with the build.

Hi Ian thanks for the heads up re the Beast version. I also down loaded the manual from the Align web site. I set the unit up yesterday using the manual while cross checking the steps on the card, printed manual, and heli's movements. All seems to be working as should but I will go through the steps again today checking I have the correct light sequences for the settings I require against the movements on the heli. It took me 8 hours in total and I found the process confusing at the beginning. Being locked away in the workshop without distractions helped and I got there in the end. thankfully I have an understanding wife😂👍

Yes it can be very time consuming, setting a Heli up, I find the Microbeast takes a long time to set up, but once you do it for the first time it gets easier!! Yes it helps that the woman in your life is understanding!! I have ine like that too 😀👍

Hi Ian, yes I am going with the Microbeast Plus but like you I am getting stressed with the set up. There is plenty of videos for Spectrum and others but not Futaba. I am going to start with my gut feeling on the Rx and basic set up which I am currently struggling with. All other settings seem straight forward. A video will follow shortly.

Thank you

Many thanks Ian I have been pottering with it for two weeks. Next step will be the FBL unit (which is the first time for me) and then the maiden. I am really enjoying the experience. 👍

Good luck Pete 👍

Thanks Pal, I plan to use a Micro BeastX Plus or maybe a Futaba CGY760R. My plan was to use the Futaba CGY60R in a new scale heli I have bought so most likely the Microbeast. 50/50 at the moment.

@@All_things_RC. 🤞 it all goes to plan for you buddy all the best 👍🏻

Hi, if there is, I never found the setting. I also think the unit is very difficult to see on bright days which is usually when we fly. I found placing my back towards the sun so my shadow is over the model and unit making it a little easier to see. Sorry I could be more help. Thank you for watching and contributing to my channel.

Hi and thanks for the kind comments. I use a Futaba 16SZ transmitter and a Futaba R7008SB receiver.

Thanks bud. The H1 GPS controller certainly makes it easier but great for the hand eye coordination and confidence.

Cheers pal. I have decided not to try something new but to stay at this level and to master the control, keeping the turns smooth and consistent. The sim is definitely helping especially as the weather has been so poor this year. My end goal is to fly scale helis but I keep getting the urge to flip or roll.😂😂 Happy flying bud

Thank you, she is a lovely bird to fly. RC scale helis is an area of our hobby I have always inspired to and out of all the model types I have flown this is the most enjoyable and satisfying of them all.

hi Thomas. Yes I would recommend adding the fan I also use 2200mah packs instead of the suggested 3 to 4000mah packs. The shorter flight time, reduced flying weight and fan all help to keep the ESC noticeably cooler. The fan plugs into a spare channel on the Rx and starts working as soon as the battery is connected. Thanks for watching and participating in my channel and please dont hesitate to send me a message if you require any further help. happy flying

Hi Thomas, The conversion was pretty much straight forward and without any issues. A couple of pointers if I may, try to minimize weakening structure of the fuselage when installing the mechanics especially there the canopy attaches to the rest of the fuselage and the tail area. Also install a cooling fan for the ESC. As you will know the ESC run hot on Fly Wing Models anyway but runs even hotter in the confines of the scale fuselage. Thanks for watching and participating in my channel and please dont hesitate to send me a message if you require any further help. happy flying

Hi Jeff, With the fan in place the ESC is slightly cooler. I have made another two precautions which is to use only 2200mah 4s lipos on hot days. The 2200mah lipo gives 8 minute flights as apposed to 20m with the 4000mah. The lighter 2200mah batteries reduced flying time, lighter weight battery and the fan unit all help to keep the ESC cooler.

Hi the mechanics are a FW450L 2.5L and yes the body is a a 470 Roban as mentioned in the written description and verbally in my video. Thank you for watching my channel and interacting.

Many thanks for your constructive comments

You are welcome Terry glad to be of assistance.

Hi I first bought a 450 body and had to cut too much of the body to ensure the mechanics fit. I could get them in by removing the structure (flanges where the canopy meats the fuselage) but this would weaken this critical area and create a lot of vibration which would effect the operation of the flight and GPS controllers.. Stepping up to the 470 size meant I didn't have to cut any of the fuselage to get the FW450L frame in. Yes this added the weight but as yet I haven't had any issues and the stock ESC & motor cope well. I have over 100 hours flying time since the conversion. When I flew the FW450L in its original format I used 4S 4000mha lipos however now the electronics are enclosed on the 206 body I use 4S 2200mah lipos to reduce the flight time and stresses of all the extra load on the motor and ESC. I have also installed a cooling fan on the ESC.. The ESC is warm to touch but not overly hot. If you go on my channel, select playlists and then select watch all this will give you access to all the videos on this heli and the series of the conversion. Thank you for watching my channel and your input please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any further questions.

@All_things_RC. Your information is so valuable thankyou so much. I'm in a different scenario to you as there is now the option of buying the fly wing 206 fuselage. It seems it wasn't available when you started your build. However after watching some vids I can see the fw 206's mechanics don't have a boom instead the rear rotor is fixed to a small carbon board coming out of the tail in the fuselage.With this in mind will the boom from a fw450 fit into/down the tail section? Or could I just fit my main body and attach the motor as per the standard fw206? I'm glad you mentioned that the 450 fuse is to small as I was going down that route so many thanks! I was told that the fw206 is a 470 size but it seems its in-between. The 450 size is 610mm long, the 470 is 842mm long but the fw bell 206 is 720mm! So do I gamble on the fly wing fuselage or just get a 470 as you have..... Using smaller mah batteries makes perfect sense too even when you buy these models the 206 comes with a 3000 as standard but the 450 comes with a 5000mah. But in saying that the airwof version comes with a 5000mah but then I'm informed the airwolf is a std v2.5 450 inside..... have a while to decide as I'm still waiting for my 450 v3 to be delivered (by 12th july) I have ordered an airwolf fuselage but I do prefer the bell 206. I'll probably end up buying a 2nd model!! Lol

@@Tucker_T I am pleased I can be of some help FYI I bought my fus from RC-Topmall on Ebay. I have had three from them now and the service is always good. Which ever rout you choose my advice is to buy a cooling fan for the ESC

@All_things_RC. strangley enough the fuselage's I've been looking at are from RC-Topmall, they look great quality for the money. I will definitely go down the esc cooling route as it seems to have been a common issue with the FW450, although I might be inclined to try and install some small fans to draw air in then a couple expelling air out of exhaust tubes.... just a thought. Hopefully my model will come with the V4 esc as they are supposed to be less vulnerable to over heating.... I'm not a 3d flyer nor do I aspire to be as scale heli's are my thing so apart from the extra weight from the fuselage I wont be working it that hard..... but thanks to you it will definitely have some form of cooling system (a case of prevention is better than the cure)😎